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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/05/2016 in all areas

  1. There were two 1949 Roadmaster convertibles used in the movie "Rain Man" as most of you know. The other one was in the Greenwich Concours de Elegance held June 4-6, 2016 in Greenwich Connecticut. I was invited to display my 1953 Special Riviera hardtop in the Saturday showing of US made cars. I located the other 49 Roadmaster Convertible at this meet. It is owned by Wayne Carini of the TV show Chasing Cars. He was the Grand Marshal of the Greenwich Concours. I will try to attach a photo of the 1949 Roadmaster and my 1953 Special. Joe, BCA 33493
    7 points
  2. Couldn't resist finishing the fender and hanging some trim
    4 points
  3. 1953 Buick Roadmaster out for a drive on the 4th of July in rural SW Iowa.
    3 points
  4. I have a '41 Limited limousine as well and have found the brakes in particular are the strongest pre-war brakes I've ever experienced. Even in a massive car like this, they stop well and don't give up easily. Two weeks ago we attended a show with it with two very long downhill grades where trucks were warned to use a lower gear. I babied the Limo down the first hill but it turns out it was totally unnecessary, the brakes were just fine when I just coasted down the second. The Limiteds have brakes that are about 20% larger than the other 1941 Buick models and the drums are cast iron, not steel, so they're exceptionally durable. They're also some of the first finned drums, albeit circumferential not radial, used on production cars. Don't worry about power brakes unless you're planning on upgrading for more speed. As for power steering, maybe I'd be up for that. It's heavy at low speeds and at a standstill, but again, the car was designed without power assist, so it's manageable. It's my opinion that it's a mistake to simply start upgrading parts without knowing the efforts. I'm guessing that you haven't driven the car up above there and that someone somewhere, perhaps your mechanic, told you that you just had to upgrade to power steering and power brakes because these old cars are impossible to drive without them. That's BS. They were driven regularly when they were new, they can be driven regularly today. In fact, my '41 Limited is my daily driver right now. I like it better than my '41 Cadillac 60 Special, which is a much smaller car with notably inferior brakes and about the same steering effort. I'll probably put radial tires on eventually and that should reduce effort even more. Oh, and the 12-volt myth just won't die either. You don't need 12 volts to make these old cars run today and in the Limited, which has many more complex systems than a standard '41 Buick, you're going to lose some functionality on some of the coolest features. The heater/defroster system, for example, is unique to the Limited. My car has a working AM radio with rear speaker, which I've never seen before. The power division window is also powered by a 6V motor, and that's about the neatest feature of the car--why put up with the hassles of a limo if the power divider doesn't work? Lose the six volt electrical system and all that stuff stops working and then you're on your own to figure out how to make it all work again--there's no kit or how-to book to tell you what to do. Then you have to re-engineer the gauges, the lights, the ignition system, and all this other stuff to make the car work. Why not leave it alone, get it into working condition, and use it? It was reliable in '41, it'll be reliable today. Trying to reinvent the wheel very rarely results in a better wheel... Check out the article I wrote below. It should be enlightening. Cool car. Big project. Have fun! 1941 Buick 90 Limited vs. 1941 Cadillac 60 Special: Buick_vs_Cadillac.pdf
    3 points
  5. My only collector car is a1929 Studebaker President Brougham that I purchased in October 2000. The President had been in storage for over 30 years, in non-running condition, when I acquired the car. I spent the first winter getting it running and road worthy. For the past 16 years, I spend every winter doing something to upgrade the condition of the car making sure that the project is completed in time for the next years driving season. So far, this has worked out for me and I have never been unable to drive it on a spring, summer, or fall meet. This method makes it possible for me to enjoy the hobby while slowly restoring the President. Here are pictures of the President when purchased and on a tour this past September 2016. The recent picture was taken at the top of a mountain pass in California when I drove the President 959 miles during a six day tour. The President performed flawlessly.
    2 points
  6. I disagree that anyone was scolding him. I don't care what he does with his car, but he's got a big project ahead of him, he hasn't even driven the car, and I'm guessing that someone put a bug in his ear that the modifications he describes are mandatory to be able to drive any old car. I think that's a mistake and I think that's largely what's feeding the "resto-mod" trend--guys who know nothing about old cars being told what to do by shops with experience doing it only one way: Chevy crate motor and 12-volt wiring. I also think that if you're starting a project you should set goals before you start working. If he wants to build a modified car and put modern components in, great! That's where he should start and make a plan. But if he's going to keep it largely stock, then I think it's a needless waste of time, money, and resources to try to change major systems that don't need changing. I can't tell you how many cobbled-up cars that are otherwise pretty nice but have completely buggered electrical systems because some backwoods mechanic figured that 6 volts just wouldn't work in today's 12-volt world. Everyone gets it in their heads that old brakes don't work, so they need modern brakes, and to get modern brakes they cut off the frame and weld on a Nova clip and pretend that's an upgrade, never mind that the Nova's brakes were never designed for a 5500 pound limousine, but the 1941 Buick brakes were. I'll tell you right now that my Limited will lock up all four tires just as easily as any modern car with 4-wheel discs (sans ABS, of course) and if you're driving it hard enough for brake fade to be an issue, then you're going to have to install some pretty huge discs to handle it, along with suspension upgrades and a lot more motor. The stock brakes are more than even that giant car needs, even in today's world. I haven't found their limits and I drive the car daily, on the highway and up and down hills. In that car, brakes are the least of my worries. So nobody is looking down on him or scolding him, we're helping to guide a rookie who might be getting bad advice from other quarters. I remember my very first bright idea when I bought my '41 Century was, hey, a 12-volt upgrade seems smart--my dad was always having trouble with those 6-volt batteries on his old cars. Someone wise talked me out of it and I've since learned that the batteries aren't the problem. I'm glad of that, because not only is wiring a thankless job, it's easy to get it wrong and create untraceable gremlins that may never get fixed, and we all know how that kills a project faster than just about anything. I hope the original poster comes back and asks more questions. I hope he gets the car running and driving, however that works for him. I don't care if it's stock or if it has a blower hanging out of the hood (which would actually be pretty cool), I just care that he does it with his eyes wide open instead of listening to people that say old stuff is bad just because it's old.
    2 points
  7. Your ignition coils may be OK. The resistance of 10K in the secondary is pretty close to 9K, and the slightly higher resistance may be due to more turns of fine wire in the secondary coil that will produce a higher spark plug voltage. I would suspect the capacitor (condenser), the wire inside the distributor connecting the points to the exterior terminal for the wire going to the coil or some other wiring irregularity. Set the timing at idle by the book and then connect the new vacuum advance and see what develops. Joe
    2 points
  8. TKennedy, the transmission used in the Edsel was not a straight Borg Warner as Willie Wurke says, but a Ford Cruiseomatic which was based on the B/W, which became the C-6 in 66. Should bolt right up and be a perfect fit and quite satisfactory for you. I doubt if you will have very many people pointing at your car and saying "look, his transmission has the wrong part number" ! Good for ya', enjoy it !
    2 points
  9. Making the changes sounds fine, but don't rush into it. Do the routine maintenance on the original systems and try it stock for 30 or 40 years. Then if you don't like it move forward on the modifications. Bernie
    2 points
  10. Cleaned up out back some too.... now I need to devote time to the building.....
    2 points
  11. Bob tells me that his daughter Ashli and husband Adam will be bringing this car to Allentown and hopes everyone will make a point to stop by and say hello.
    1 point
  12. I bought my 1962 Triumph TR4 in March 2008 and finished the restoration on Memorial Day 2015. 7+ years. I did almost everything myself to include the paint and installing the interior kit. Only thing I did not do was the chrome plating.
    1 point
  13. The number of folks who have liked your posts
    1 point
  14. Thanks everyone you make me feel a lot better about my 2 years working only on the wood structure . I showed the post to my wife about the length of time for some of the restorations on the posts and she said " how long ? ? "
    1 point
  15. Here's what mine looks like if it's any help. Looks like previous owner messed with it some...
    1 point
  16. More progress. I rented a HD transmission jack and had to get the car up another 4 inches. This jack was essential, the tilt function was needed to really do this right. Got it in and bolted up. I didn't see any alignment marks on the driveshaft as some manuals show . Will hope for the best. Used a come-along to pull the rear end up tight after I got shaft aligned and started. I got a new set of brake lines from "In Line Tube". They connect but they don't fit the original mount. The fitting isn't even close. There's no shoulder and the nut is too big for the mount. I guess people don't return stuff that doesn't fit correctly. I WILL and I will leave them a crappy review for wasting my time.. Now to bleed the brakes, add tranny fluid and see if my battery is still OK. Keeping my fingers crossed
    1 point
  17. Thanks everyone for the opinions and advise. One opinion given me was buy "newer" 15 inch rims so I can put whatever I want on the car. What i have found is newer rims aren't made the same as 42 rims and the look wont be the same. Plus I am having a heck of a time finding 4. Anyway, to make a long story short, I have decided to go Coker Classic black wall bias tires at $136 each + tubes. the savings will allow me to do a few other things. Thanks again for all the thoughts and opinions.
    1 point
  18. My first car was a 60 MGA in 1974. Mine needed a complete redo of the body and repair to rusted out sections of the frame. Yours looks to be very solid in comparison. Car was a lot of fun, but was sold to buy something that could be used year round. Replaced it about 10 years later with a TR3.
    1 point
  19. I will 'admit' I didn't make my comments as clear as they should have been. Sorry about such. I should have stated comments like WAIT 30-40 YEARS, and GRAFT THE FRONT CLIP ON A TRUCK were IMO not helpful to the original poster. I'm sure the posters were having fun, but doubt the owner was looking for such answers. To me any NEW poster should be handled with softer words/comments. I have noticed that to many former posters are not around anymore, and that isn't good for the site/us, IMO Now back to working on my MODIFIED Limited, just havin fun. My car is a driver, there is no way keeping it stock was going to work for me, I like higher highway speeds, better MPG, power this and that, and a CHEAP hehe Chevy, GM piece was perfect. Don't anyone be confused, the Chevy SB is as good an engine that has ever been produced. That's just NOT me sayin. I love the straight eight, but it wasn't going to work for me. Dale in Indy Dale in Indy
    1 point
  20. Personally, the idea of ONE big magnet in a disintegrating plastic housing is way worse than 4 small magnets. The 4 small magnets of the original design kept the metal fragments small as they fell into the timing gear area and eventually into the oil pan. There is NOTHING inherently bad with 4 smaller magnets and I question if ANY plastic, that might have been or might currently be used, could retain its integrity longer than the original design. Seems that most of us got a solid 20+ years out of the original design. As for whether there are multiple magnets in the original design, the answer is a resounding YES. Many of us have, on replacement of the interrupter, found the interrupter with one or more magnets still housed in the failing plastic. The most likely reason that the magnets were exposed rather than being totally encapsulated was purely a manufacturing compromise (i.e. injection mold the housing, snap the magnets in place afterwards).
    1 point
  21. Having worked for a company in Ivyland PA & visited many times, I have tried Scrapple & I can assure everyone that SPAM is much better. I think only the natives in and near PA like to eat that stuff... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrapple Whereas, many people worldwide continue to eat SPAM from a can; especially those in Hawaii. We went to the SPAM Museum on our way to the national meet in Rochester MN. It is one of the coolest museums of it's kind. http://www.spam.com/museum
    1 point
  22. Agreed. The voltage input/output is based on the primary/secondary winding ratio, not the resistance of each side. Ohming it out tells you if you've got an open or short winding, but you have to keep technology differences in perspective. Not just in your meter, but in the coil itself. Unless you are testing an original, 60 year old, Delco coil, I'd call those numbers ballpark. An aftermarket coil may have more windings or a different gauge of wire, which would change the resistance, while still maintaining the same winding ratio. They look close close enough to me, I'd focus my efforts elsewhere.
    1 point
  23. I agree with Matt, but neither of us lives in New Jersey.
    1 point
  24. Well, WHY would he return, he wasn't given a BIG WELCOME and a HUG. Of course you know how, 'I' feel, The site has a modified section, but MOST really don't give a D -- about helping someone that wants to make changes to his/her car. I sent him a PM, and will be happy to assist him should he decide to modify his Limited. I'm sure he felt most posts were SCOLDING him for the thought of making the changes he is looking for. Dale in Indy
    1 point
  25. I'm sure anything can be done if you throw enough thought and $$ at it. Luckilly the dash already has end vents which could be hooked up to anything. That just leaves a center vent. Since you are not opposed to modifications it would be really neat to go with a vintage air system, and replace the ash trays with another set of the end vents. That would give you 4 outlets and a modern efficient unit to work with.
    1 point
  26. Mailed mine in late last week; a suggestion to give you peace-of-mind would be to include a self-addressed stamped envelope that allows for confirmation of your entry to be returned to you safe in hand, well ahead of time. Though I've never had a problem picking up my packet at Fall Hershey, I am mindful of the 1200 to 1500 vehicles entered, and the tremendous undertaking that is involved in making sure every single entry is accounted for. I always take the returned SASE, including the confirmation, with me to the registration tent, just in case--better to have something and not need it, than the other way around... As always, very much looking forward to early October and the annual pilgrimage to Fall Hershey!
    1 point
  27. Well, it took longer than I had hoped to get to this, but I finally made the resistance measurements on the sending unit in my '67 Riviera. I checked resistance between the stud on the sender and ground (engine block). I started with the engine cold, at fast idle to get the highest reading and then let it warm 5 ~ 10 minutes and checked the reading at idle in gear once it was warm and the choke had opened. Readings summarized below: 1. Engine OFF = 0 Ohms 2. Engine Cold, fast idle = 185 Ohms 3. Engine warm (~5 mins.) in PARK = 142 Ohms 4. Engine warm (5~10 mins.) in DRIVE = 112 Ohms Note that with the sender disconnected (infinite resistance/open connection) the oil pressure gauge reads full scale (HIGH) with the key on. These readings seem to align with what I see on my gauge. At startup (cold) it reads almost fully at "H", then about 3/4 scale at idle (PARK) and finally just past 1/2 idling in DRIVE. So, it seems that the correct sending unit must have a maximum resistance of approximately 200 Ohms.
    1 point
  28. Looking at what the sensor is looking at is the most straight forward way to find the fault and sometimes you need to update your test equipment so you can see what the sensor is looking at. The onboard diagnostics are good, but not good enough to find some of the irritating problems. So. Before you go tossing an on board computer, or some other pricy part get someone to put an O scope on your alternator and make sure you have clean DC voltage. A bad diode doesn't have to be bad enough to make the lights flicker to cause engine, or other, control problems.
    1 point
  29. Bob: Were you able to source a fuel pick up filter? I had a 1927 standard tank redone to use as a spare for my 1925-25. I tried various searches to find something close with the 5/16" ID and a 9/16" OD, 2 5/8" long. None of the descriptions ever have the OD. So I have several part # for Mopar, Ford and such with 5/16 ID. I will have to go to the parts store to plead with them to find a few to compare.
    1 point
  30. A rough estimate of a complete restoration is 2500 hours. Some will be half of that and others will be double or more. What kills the time line is when you discover, during assembly that a critical part is missing, which halts the assembly and takes six months to a year or longer to locate.
    1 point
  31. Still here, waiting for the hamburgers and macaroni salad to get dished up. I like what Matt writes. Look at his history, some good stuff. I did have a thought. How about grafting that Buick front clip onto a 6 litre Silverado crew cab?? Ta da, all done. Bernie
    1 point
  32. John: You have mentioned in previous posts that you have several lawn mowers hanging around the farm. Well this guy has an idea that you might consider and that may free you up sooner from mowing so you can get back to your car projects:
    1 point
  33. I may be "nice", but I'm not THAT nice!. Okay, the room is spoken for, from Wednesday through Saturday nights. Tues. night is still available, but I doubt if anyone will want it just for that one night. Pete
    1 point
  34. Most of the other forums I participate in do not allow discussions on for sale posts. We have a private message system. Someone can start their own thread if a discussion is needed. The one forum that does allow comments has been only positive , never anything negative.
    1 point
  35. This is why I stopped EBay as this is now becoming the standard practice. When I do a search for a car model now everything from typewriters to fuzzy dice fit my car so I just gave up.
    1 point
  36. When re-charging an AC system, we all know a vacuum needs to be applied. Once the system is being sucked bigtime, you have to wait and wait, leave the vac. on there for 20 mins., an hour, or overnight, whatever. This suck job relies on the thermodynamic concepts of entropy and diffusion, which are slow in a typical automotive system. So, here's what I do. I draw the vacuum from the low side a few minutes. Then, I add freon at the high side, just a little bit. What this does is sweep the system. The brand new freon that I let into the high side acts as a carrier for any residual air / moisture, etc. That's a waaayyy efficient way to do it if you want to get it really cleared out, quick. Back in the day when I didn't have a vac. pump I used to use that flush method, once on an XJ6 and the AC system worked fine 7 years. Edit: and also manually rotate the compressor a few turns by hand while the suck is applied and during my little flush, get the last little bits out of the pockets in the vanes of the pump
    1 point
  37. I pick the hottest days to do AC work I pulled out the low-side AC temperature sensor, internally it consists of two heavy gauge leads, with a cylindrical disc of a thermistor material. In my case, the connection between one of the leads and the disc had come undone. Solution ? I bent the leads with needlenose so as to mechanically bias the leads inwardly towards the disc, then... heated it carefully at the edge of the flame of a propane torch, slowly.... When the disc hits the melt temp of the solder, the solder binds to the disc and the sensor is repaired. Measured Ohmage is 1300 ohms while its still warm, and when it cools to room temp, it rises to about 2200 ohms. I cleaned it with toluene spray first, thoroughly to get all the oil off there prior to heating. So, as long as you have the disc still, those sensors are repairable
    1 point
  38. CAM IS HERE!!! To late for any work or pictures. The Lifters are all dis assembled. I guess that will be an hour or two! Probably not much will get done this weekend. Honey doo , you know. Ben
    1 point
  39. Not to digress from the awesome photos, but I don't think disc brakes will make your car stop noticeably better--at least the first time. I've gone back and forth on this with my own cars, and yes, old car brakes are pretty crappy--my '29 Cadillac has mechanical drums that are about as effective as a headwind. But by 1941, the brakes were considerably more powerful and effective; the brakes on my '41 Limited are hugely powerful and I've never gotten close to their limits. Granted, they're about 20% bigger than the Century's brakes, but I'm still extremely impressed with their stopping power and fade resistance. Buick engineers totally nailed it here. The big advantage discs offer is fade-resistance and repeatability. I'd argue that your stock brakes will stop the car in an emergency just as well as discs. But they'll only do it once. Any brake system can be made to lock up the wheels, disc or drum. Fade is a significant factor and here is where discs are superior. If you have multiple high-speed stops or live in an mountainous area, then discs are definitely worth considering. But if you drive it like most of us drive our collector cars (modestly, defensively, and not often in heavy, high-speed traffic) then I don't think they'll be notably better than the drums. Yes, I'm a purist in most forms, but with two little kids who often ride with me, I'm big on safety. Nevertheless, I can't make a good argument for a disc brake upgrade given the way I personally drive my cars (flat country, quiet roads, lots of following space, etc.).
    1 point
  40. One of the straightest cars I've bought with the most complete running gear under the hood.
    1 point
  41. Hi Keith, Thanks! As you drive your cars have you any thoughts regarding braking? Ever thought it was an issue? Kind Regards Lawrence
    1 point
  42. Longest ride yet in my 41 Century sedanette out to the Oak beach lot and down the ocean drive on eastern Long Island NY's Jones Beach. After having worked on the front suspension and getting an alignment it was time to get off the local 45 mph streets and hit the open road and see what the fastest car in America in 1941 had to offer. My first impression was how light the steering was and how stable the chassis was at speed, very relaxing. It was a hot day but the cabin was very comfortable and surprisingly quite with windows and cowl vent open and door vents closed. Air flow by the open windows is so smooth my hat stayed in place and we could still have a conversation. This is the first vintage car I have owned that was so well insulated from the engine sounds heat and smells. The real treat was putting the pedal down and feeling that rear carb kick in which was really impressive and not a myth as we rocketed up the Sunken Meadow State Park Bridge grade to 75 mph which really felt no different then 50. The 320 eight stayed at 180 all day with a steady 45 lbs of oil pressure and not burning a drop. The one unfortunate moment was the familiar smell of an electrical meltdown in the Sonomatic and indeed it died while listening to the ball game. Yes power steering would be really really nice at low speeds but a pair of Willwood disc brakes would have to get installed if I keep driving her. Even keeping a large distance the casual stopping power of modern cars with giant caliper four wheel discs makes it a little scary sometimes to slow two tons of seventy five year old Detroit steel. I love that this car will easily hang with modern traffic but it needs to stop like it too. The exercise really had its effect and everything except the radio is working better. I'm hooked! Like the Greatest the Buick Century floats like a butterfly and stings like a bee! Rest in peace.. Ali photos from Long Island Buick Club meet 2 weeks ago..just a few prewar cars showed up.
    1 point
  43. Your ignition seems to be in order, but check the plug wires for continuity from the terminals inside the distributor to the plug terminal. Don't bypass the resistor...the points will burn. It is easy enough to check for a nice blue spark at a plug and if present that is enough fire the fuel. Even a weak spark will work unless the gap is excessive and at high rpm. The 4gc is the only carb that has beaten me... replaced with a WCFB. The off idle stumble was just too aggravating. I could lessen the stumble by turning in the idle screws until the rpm dropped (leaner). The black smoke seems to be a different problem. Look down (best to use a mirror) the carb while bringing the rpm up slowly. You should not see any fuel since it will be running off the idle jets below the butterfly and then the jets just above the butterfly. There should not be any fuel from the accelerator discharge or the nozzles. Then see what happens when you snap the it open quickly. There should be a healthy squirt from the accelerator pump discharge and then spray from the nozzles. Report back.
    1 point
  44. We had our 8th annual Mason-Dixon car show on Saturday. 57 cars registered. It is always great when something special shows up. Pre-War cars only 3. Last several years we had as many as 7 or 8. This stunning 1933 Victoria Coupe was trailered from Mars PA around 240 miles to our little show. The good thing was that the owner received the Best of Show award and the Dealers Choice award. The photo shows my shabby 1937 Special in the back round.
    1 point
  45. OK, here's another of the 24 Boat Top Buick.
    1 point
  46. I mounted the old harness, complete with the light switch housing and fuse/patch panel to an old hollow-core interior door: I wanted to keep the old harness sheathing on for archival purposes, but quickly decided to strip it to facilitate tracing the old wires and examining how they made the various wire junctions at the factory. The sheathing was very easy to remove, disintegrating as I parted it and pulled it off. Years ago I made up a 4’ X 8’ platform consisting of a frame of 2X3s and a Masonite surface for a Rokenbach set my brother Randy gave my boys when they were very young. This platform now became the surface for making up the new harness. I was always fascinated with pictures of WW2 aircraft production and the work making up the aircraft wiring harness. I wanted to replicate that methodology. I installed screws at each position where the harness takes a sharp turn in order to replicate the "topography" of the harness – here’s the start of the first lead run, and then near the finish line. The passenger side trunk is to the left. PROCESS: I started with the passenger side radiator bulkhead patch panel (furthest forward - lights and blower leads), one at a time, and progressed down the main trunk. Here's how: I positioned a loolely secured cable tie at each screw to accept the runs. I would go to the original harness, trace the particular lead (both ends were labeled during removal), compare the continuity with the schematic (if different, schematic wins), measure length and position for branch if applicable, and then cut the respective gauge wire to length. The relative position of the branch (ie the 2 leads off to the generator and the 3 off to the dimmer switch, etc.) was critical for a successful installation later. I would then attach the terminals (crimp and solder and shrink tube), label each end at that moment, run the lead through the cable ties positioned at the screw at each bend. As the trunk grew with new leads, I would tame the trunk with more cable ties between bends, a little loose to permit more runs. When things got tight in the cable ties I would have to cut and replace them - they're cheap! Eventually I had cable ties positioned about every 10 inches, less if circumstances like branches and rebellious leads dictated, keeping them somewhat loose but always labeling both ends of the new lead just after attaching the terminals. Did I mention that I labeled each end of each run? I cannot emphasize this step enough - I would forget the results of a continuity test not 2 minutes afterward. This prompted me to keep a detailed journal of the continuity tests, listing the lead terminals, matching their terminology to that used in the schematic (ie Neutral Safety Switch, Vacuum Switch, Position 4 on the light switch, etc.). Pictures below: A detail of the labeling and the reuse of the bullet terminals and bulb sockets. The bulb socket with the three leads is for the left turn signal indicator. When I saw later that some insulation inside the socket had come off exposing bare wire, I ended up redoing these connections by stripping the old insulation completely ensuring that the shrink tube went to the furthest extent on each wire inside the socket. I redid the connections on the right signal bulb in this manner. One final note I neglected to mention earlier: I used the bag and tag method for all fasteners, terminals for re-use, sockets and devices removed, greatly facilitating reinstallation. Next up: Trial installation.
    1 point
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