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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/01/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Use the forum search feature (BCA General ... texas road warriors) to find some of our previous (mis)adventures. It all started 11 years ago (http://forums.aaca.org/topic/71039-on-the-way-to-batavia/?hl=batavia). This should serve as fair warning to anybody in our way north of Texas and an invitation to other drivers from Texas to join the fun. There are no caravans, schedules or other requirements; just a bunch of independent contractors that sometimes end up at the same place. Also, participants should save up for gas and oil (we're driving Buicks after all) and stock up on sliced Barbeque Brisket and Fajitas...if gas prices go up any more consider baloney sandwiches. We will leave 7-24 and drive 400-450 miles a day in our 1955 model 63. Just a few things to do. Willie
  2. 2 points
    everything is for sale!
  3. 2 points
    The fan pulley is connected to the end of the camshaft gear which is why the fan rotates opposite the crankshaft. Don't know what year the fan pulley was moved to the crankshaft.
  4. 2 points
    That is an axle truss. A structural member which is still used these days in off-road (look at off-road racers) vehicles. - Carl
  5. 1 point
    1914 Buick touring (Henderson) http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/cto/5251545333.html 1914 Buick 5 passenger touring car. This is the largest of the 4cyl-5 passenger tourings offered that year. It was running a few years ago and should run with a little "tinkering" and cleaning. Great solid car appears to be garage kept for it to be in this good of condition with like new tires! At one point turned into a speedster because the rear portion of the body was removed.
  6. 1 point
    Hi I am a first time poster on this forum, having recently bought the 1924/45 McLaughlin advertised on this site. I am looking for advice on a badly warped manifold where it is bolted to head,can this be straightened? There is plenty of advice on internet about straightening model t ford manifolds ,can this be done with the 24/45 buick? Would anybody have a good manifold for sale and is anybody remanufacturing this item I am based in Scotland. alex
  7. 1 point
    The new software, installed a few months ago, shows "Edit History"--any previous version of a person's posting, before the final version. Can you explain any good reasons for seeing the unedited versions of a person's posting? Maybe there are some, such as when a person lowers the asking price on a car, and we can see what he was asking previously. I see some disadvantages, though: ---Someone may have found more information and edited his post to add it. Why is the old version useful? ---Someone may have corrected factual or grammatical errors. There's no need to see the incorrect. ---Someone may have responded unkindly, and later softened his argument. Seeing the old version would open up the wound. When West Peterson publishes his rough drafts in Antique Automobile along with his final articles, then maybe "Edit History" will be more appropriate!
  8. 1 point
    Can I relocate the dual aftermarket oil filter setup I have on my 24-45, to a location out of site, on the frame? I notice original oil filters in 1926 and 1927 are high on the firewall, leading to somewhat of a gravity assisted feed of oil from the filter to the head and valve train area. If I relocate my aftermarket oil filter to a spot low on the frame, will the pump be able to push the oil through the filters and back "up" to the top of the engine? Assuming I have a good pump with 30 psi oil pressure.
  9. 1 point
    Got yours yet Bernie? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SDCC-2016-Exclusive-Hot-Wheels-Star-Trek-64-Buick-Riviera-Spock-1-64-PRE-SALE-/182187968435?hash=item2a6b3fc7b3:g:2l8AAOSwjXRXZ0ZV
  10. 1 point
    This year the Sloan Museum celebrated it's 50th year with it's annual Summer Auto Show last weekend. It was a 2 day event with over 700 cars registered, along with many feature vehicles that you rarely see (including Buicks of course). This was also the first time that the general public was able to see the recently completed restoration of the museum's 1953 Skylark. This was a Flint built car that was owned by a Flint family prior to it's ownership by the Museum. It's a beautiful restoration, mostly by museum volunteers (including many Buicktown Chapter members) over several years. Also on display was the GM Futurliner and the GM Firebirds I, II, and III. I've included a few of the photo's from the show. You'll probably recognize Larry's Buick truck (minus engine). It was a great weekend!
  11. 1 point
    50,000 Miles never been touched. I'm the 2nd owner. Color is black,windsor grey and dover white buckeye 2 Drag files here to attach, or choose files... Max total size 19.53MB Insert other media Uploaded Images s
  12. 1 point
    I just received a reply from the owner of the 1923-55 saying that it has been sold. Now I have cheapskate's remorse. It will be interesting if I hear from the new owner as I usually ask for my contact information forwarded to them if they need any help finding parts or services. Of the 6 cars I made offers on in the last 5 years 3 were sold and no contact. 3 are still not sold. Now I must shake this off and get to work on my 1925-25 so I can get it to Allentown!
  13. 1 point
    Here is the aluminum bottom plate off my '40 (320cid) engine just after I bought the car. 30psi cold and 0 at hot idle. I emoried it down to where there were no leak tracts, put a THIN layer of Permatex #2 round the edge, a 3/8" nut behind the pressure relief spring, and Shell Rotella 15-40 in the motor with a can of STP just for good measure. Results are 60psi at cold start, 40-45 hot cruising and 30 @ hot idle. I'm a happy camper..... And this is with a motor that has never had the head off, with 89K on the clock. Mike in Colorado
  14. 1 point
    TM-Oh man, you are liable to get a flood of opinions and revisionist history on this one. I've met old guys at shows who swear my 63 should have "wide whites" to look factory correct. They mean really wide whites. To me that's not only incorrect by about 10 years but would make my car look very gangsta. Some guys tell me my car came with black walls. I don't trust either. If you look at Coker Tire American Classic radial for a 15" wheel in a 205, 215, 225 or 235 you'll see they have whitewalls in a 1, 1.3 and 1.6" dimension. From there, it becomes very subjective. Mine are 1.3" and that's plenty of white for me. PRL
  15. 1 point
    With 30 psi, I see no issues with the pump pushing oil back up to the top of the engine. Not enough height involved to matter. I will occasionally feel the the oil lines after the engine has warmed up to verify I have good oil flow. The filter outlet line should be nearly the same temperature as the inlet line. That would be my speculation as well. A convenient location not used by any other accessories.
  16. 1 point
    Adjusting the Dynaflow shift linkage, as per the factory service manual, sounds complicated. That is not helped by the scarcity of pictures to explain which parts the manual is referencing. That is why I would not endorse making any shift linkage adjustments until you know both engine mounts and the transmission mount ( 2 pieces) are in good condition. Note, the transmission mount may look good but if it’s never been changed, chances are the pads have become detached from the steel plates of the mounts. This will impact the shift linkage adjustment. If your mounts are good, and you need to adjust the shift linkage, there are two sections of the Service Manual which you need to study. Section 5-12 on page 181, and section 5-21(d) on page 203. The adjustment mentioned in section 5-21(d) is generally performed whenever the rear bearing retainer is removed. That usually only happens when the transmission is first built, or subsequently rebuilt. So you should be aware of that section, but follow the previous section (5-12) for in service adjustment. The first thing you need to do is identify the parts of the linkage the manual talks about, but does not show pictures of. Keep in mind that from the steering column to the transmission, all the linkages are on the left ( drivers) side of the transmission. Also keep in mind that there are two separate linkages. One is the stator control, which is moved by the gas pedal linkage. The other is the shift control which is the one you want to pay attention to. On page 182 there is a picture. That picture represents the end of the steering column, next to the steering box. This particular adjustment refers to the spring which you feel when you pull on the shift lever in the car. There is almost a 99% chance that you do not have to adjust that spring. I would recommend you check the condition of this part of the steering column. If it looks like it was never disassembled, and you have some spring action when you pull the shift lever towards the steering column, then I would leave that adjustment alone. You would then concentrate on steps 6 and 7 of this section. At this point it helps to understand that the shift linkages on the left ( drivers) side of the transmission operate a cross shaft that goes through the rear bearing retainer and controls the shift detent mechanism, which is inside the rear bearing retainer on the right ( passengers) side of the transmission. The adjustment lever is on the right side of the rear bearing retainer as shown in figure 5-81 on page 203. What is not shown in any picture (to the best of my knowledge ) is the parking pawl gear. That gear is on the output shaft and the pawl (hook) that you see in the pictures contacts that gear, to lock the car in park. There are no internal adjustments to the gear and pawl mechanism. The actual adjustment to this entire system is a change in the roller ball that contacts the detent, which is ultimately reflected in the PNDLR gauge on your steering column. That roller ball adjustment will allow the linkages to operate at their full range within the limits of the shift lever in the steering column. This goes back to those engine and transmission mounts. When they deteriorate, that affects the position of the transmission and engine. The trans can drop down, pulling on the linkages to the steering column, and then the shift lever cannot move to the new place it has to be for the Park position, because it can only move so far within the limits of the openings in steering column itself. I hope this explains things a little bit clearer. Chances are when the service manual was written the authors expected the mechanics of the day to have already had some experience with these parts and did not forsee the day when inexperienced folks like us would try to interpret and apply this information. Hopefully this explanation will help
  17. 1 point
    Once again....that is NOT a fin sticking out on the driver's side. It is the fence obscuring the taillight.
  18. 1 point
    Just a warning. Do not use this product on chrome.
  19. 1 point
    Do cars become "Lost" due to restorations? Bob
  20. 1 point
    I would just repaint the rest in the red and the outside would be done,I could probably live with the interior for a short time but would get redone in a tan leather.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    To all the members running the meet Thanks to you All i know some of this might have been asked before but to clear up some questions please 1) the hours from 7am to 6pm wed thurs fri and 7am to 3pm on sat does that mean if you are not leaving your car on the show field it MUST be removed by 6pm? i see there is no 24hr access but are those hours the only hours that we can be on the show field, and if we leave a car can we get back to it to access it at any time other than those hours? 2) the 10 x 10 tents allowed does this mean there will be enough room behind each car for a 10x 10 tent? if so there is a perfect spot for chapter banners! 3) for those of us that are not attending the Banquets or Dorney park does anyone know of any local cruise spots we could invade with our Buicks? 4)is Saturday the only day that BCA members will be able to view Mr Bulgari's collection or will it be available other days? 5) will there be available car wash as the host hotel usually has at other meets? if not is there any local NO TOUCH car washes in the area? again thanks for all the hard work marty
  23. 1 point
    This appears to be a nice solid '57 Roadmaster 4 door hardtop. A good condition price is about $14,000. Looking at this as a buyer, I'd start with this price. The interior is not correct in terms of material and the pattern is not correct. I'm looking at $8,000 to do it correct. Your Dad could have spent a couple of hundred more on the interior and done it correctly at the time and looks cheap. I see an alternator on the engine and a felx hose top hose, incorrect fuel filter and chrome oil filler cap. I think I see an incorrect electric wiper moter an chrome valve covers. I have to ask, what else is going on. Moving on to the exterior, the color does not look correct for a '57 Buick and the white walls are too wide for 1957. More like 1954. I view the AC addition as a neutral price factor on this car. With all this said, I think this is a $5,000-8,000 car, maybe $10,000 if you're lucky. I think it would take $8-10,000 to make this a $14,000 car. Overall, it's a nice looking car that someone could enjoy.
  24. 1 point
    Sounds like you figured out what I did years ago. By eliminating the metal chrome parts you can use a generic piece of window rubber. I used the same stuff that is used on the rest of the car. It has a lip to the outside. The glass then has to be over sized slightly to fit properly. Unfortunately removing the chrome does not look as nice, but you do what you have to do to keep the car moving.
  25. 1 point
    Sharp eyes, Mike!! Hope we get an answer soon. Ben
  26. 1 point
    Thanks JohnD1956 , I will not make any adjustment. Today I used penetrating oil all over the shift linkage, transmission mounts screws, engine mount.....clean under the transmission pan (leak bad, already order new gasket). Got the motor mount today to replace the old one. I will no adjust the shift linkage yet. Also removed the starter to service it. Remove the gas tank and cleaned, put a chain inside and rotated and shake it, then poured apple vinegar (let it soak for one week) finally I will rinse with a solution of baking soda first and Pinesol.There is so many things to do with this car!! and yes smithbrother..... I wrote 1856.....my mistake ,it's a 1956 Buick Super. Daniel
  27. 1 point
    I don't want to hijack the thread, but broker-len's comments on oil should be challenged. Non-detergent was all there was. It wasn't "technology" that allowed dirt to settle, is was as far as the technology went - it was a consequence, not a design decision. I am sure very few shops would remove and clean out the sump on oil changes - the customer didn't want to wait that long nor pay for it. It is a myth that dirt in the oil will damage the bearings. It is extremely fine and will not settle much during normal operation so goes through the bearings. Anything that will do damage is larger and will settle out when the oil slows when the engine is running (the glass bowl on your fuel pump works in the same way). The dirt does settle out when the engine stops: in the oil ways, in the valve gallery and on the tappets, in the timing cover and on the timing gear, in the sump, and so on. If there are metal bits in there that will do damage, there is a serious problem already and it is time to find the problem. Lower price cars were built down to a price during the depression so newish things like oil filters didn't penetrate far into the market. Bypass oil filters are fairly effective but not as good as full flow filters. No filter is far less good. Oil was changed frequently as a result (1500 miles in the summer and 500 miles in the winter in my 1930 Dodge Brothers 8). On what basis do they think "detergent oil" damages Babbit? I expect it is more likely a less than perfect Babbit job to begin with. Oil additives are tested to ensure they do not damage the metals and alloys in the engine. Shell bearings are just very thin Babbit with a steel backing anyway. Please read Richard Widman's paper on oil: http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html On the basis of this I have change from a 20W-50 to a 5W-40 CI-rated oil in the Dodge. Oil pressure comes up quickly on startup when most wear occurs. The first number refers to the cold condition viscosity so applies to startup. The viscosity curves in Widman's paper clearly show how viscosity reduces as temperature rises, so a lower viscosity when cold is better for getting the oil flowing around the engine quickly. Are you using 30W oil or 30-weight oil? There is a big difference.
  28. 1 point
    I have never had the need to do that, but back in the early 1980's I put a Buick 350 drive train into a '60 Ford pickup using an internally regulated GM alternator. All I needed was a switched wire from the ignition and a jumper between the two plug posts. Seems like one of those internal regulators could be externally mounted on a board and a post for a #10 wire to do the same thing; shouldn't be hard to do. The $100 dollar regulator comment is making me smile. My Son is a big conspiracy fan. I tell him conspiracy theories give far too much credit to the supposed conspirators. Bernie
  29. 1 point
    Is it just me, or is this gray car simply STUNNING? Nice!
  30. 1 point
    NOT MINE REPOSTED FROM CRAIGSLIST 1916 Buick South Florida Craigslist http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/atq/5620784868.html 1916 Buick - $7500 (weston)
  31. 1 point
    Tachman did mine about 8 years ago. Still works good. Highly recommend him.
  32. 1 point
    I was wondering if anyone knows the whereabouts of this project or if it ever sold. I would be interested in it if it is still for sale. Of course, the Craig's list link no longer works. Does anyone have the owner/seller/s contact info? I am looking for a pre-1916 chassis to build a speedster/racer and this looks like a good candidate. I was at the Santa Clara Valley speedster run a few weeks ago and saw this nice Buick racer. Thank you in advance. Rusty
  33. 1 point
    There's always a fine line between original and deteriorated, and an equally fine line at the other end between preservation and restoration. Usually, preservation happens when a car is in good overall condition with all the parts in roughly the same condition (good condition), nothing notably deteriorated. A few nicks in the paint, some thin spots on the upholstery, some tarnished chrome, all OK if nothing is glaringly bad. But once you start restoring stuff, you'll probably find that the original pieces no longer measure up, and a lot of cars which started out with the owner wanting "just a quick repaint" end up as frame-off restorations. If you put new paint on the car, that original chrome is going to look pretty crappy. Fresh upholstery will make deteriorated instruments look neglected and sad. It's hard to restore one part without upsetting the balance of overall quality. To be pleasing to the eye, everything should be about the same condition, too nice or too deteriorated will stand out. As I said, it's a tough balance to find. Original is desirable if it's good original, but simply leaving parts original when you're restoring the rest because someone said original is worth more is a mistake. Original isn't worth more, but a good survivor will probably be on par with a restored car if it's in consistently good overall condition. Originality will make people overlook flaws and age if it's consistent and well-kept. But keeping tired chrome simply because someone said it was worth more is a mistake--it's not worth more. As far as color, I would urge you to pick a color that was originally available on that exact car. It doesn't have to be that car's original color, but use a 1939 Chrysler color from their sales book or color chart. You might love a color that you saw on something else, but it'll look odd on the car, especially if it's a modern color with a lot of metallic in it. Choosing original factory colors will maximize your potential pool of buyers when/if you go to sell someday. Paint it a custom color that you like and you'll have to find another guy who likes that color--good luck! Same goes for the interior. Choosing factory colors and materials means nobody can argue with your decision. Choose white leather and it'll look like a ski boat and a vast majority of potential buyers will be turned off. And as good as you think the combination looks on paper, it'll look goofy on the car. It always does. Trust the original designers--they were brilliant. Don't try to do it better than they did. Looks right: Looks wrong:
  34. 1 point
    I think that a majority of the persons on this site would vote to keep it original. I would. Much of the discussion on this site is to maintain the vehicles as they left the factory so future generations can see the historical legacy of the automobile business. This is especially true for a good straight vehicle with little rust and all of the parts there. That said if you have the remnants of a vehicle where the drive train has gone missing, lots of parts missing and tough to replace then chop, channel, drop a small block into it an make it into your vision of the ultimate ride. Your car when put together to the original factory colors and interior seat interior done right is a beautiful car and not that common. Read through this thread about paint color. This is an extreme case, but......
  35. 1 point
    Owner added more photos to help with identifying the parts. Even added the ID tag from the motor. Looks like it is a 1924 motor from the ID tag. Hugh
  36. 1 point
    There are a minimum of 300 $100 jobs on any old car, minimum. Sometimes you don't need them all, but they will all show up at some point. Someone has to want the car to either do it or pay for it having been done or already completed. It won't be my next generation daughter. She thinks a weekend on the Cape watching seals is more fun than old cars. And I still remember warm spring days opening the door on a mohair upholstered car in a junkyard. I am not really inclined to spend time in the circus atmosphere of car marketing. I still prefer looking at old cars with an agitated red wing blackbird in the background. I have been to the February Atlantic City auction a few times. I like it, nice off season time of year, some excess stock is being moved for cash flow, and there is always a deal I should have brought home. We used to sit in on the fall Hershey auction for a rest on Friday afternoon. Much different, more comic memories and really no desire to join "the sip and bid club". Anyone remember the year the review stand jockys didn't know how to start a couple of Duesenberg's? I think that was the year the woman stalled the R Type Bentley on the ramp and it wouldn't restart. We figured they gave her 40 lashes. We also noticed GM A body hardtops were displayed with the doors open, pillared coupes kept the doors closed. And the descriptions didn't get to the level of carb digits. We needed seatbelts to keep us from falling into the aisle and tissues to dry our tear wet cheeks. Nah, auctions aren't for me. Last night I bought a 1959 Austin-Healey Sprite while sitting in Tim Horton's having coffee. I may never drive it and it could sit in the corner of the garage looking like a Bugeye. It won't matter. I can enjoy that without driving. It needed a friend. And maybe this winter I'll turn the heat up, rest my feet on the bench while I sit in my pneumatic draftsman's chair and enjoy the shapes around me. When the warm air cycles on I might even remember the red winged blackbird chasing me away from that '40 Pontiac coupe 55 years ago. Hell, I might even give a nod to that Bugeye and give a little thank you to the Brits for striking a blow against one world government. And THAT is more important that the money. Bernie
  37. 1 point
    NZCARNERD --Thanks, I think you are spot on as all Stevens-Duryea photos from about 1910 look very similar. Manys thanks JB
  38. 1 point
    The car probably dates from 1909-11 and looks to have been not very old when the photo was shot. Having no front doors makes it not later than 1911. The clothing styles also add up to the pic being taken in the early to mid teens. The pic looks a bit stretched and I suspect the car is not as long as it looks. The steering wheel looks to be on the right as the driver is sitting slouched to the right of the seat with space between him and the left side of the car, and his right knee is under the wheel. Not sure of the make but maybe Stevens-Duryea??
  39. 1 point
    Hi, I know there may be other sources out there but, I did find a source for chrome seat belt anchor bolts. I purchased them through Summit Racing and I thought they were reasonable at $6.97 each. They did not list them as fitting the Rivieras but, many other GM cars of those years so I took a chance. They also carry the OPGI bolts at $18.97 each. Compare the pictures of each and they look identical. The only difference being that the OPGI's are 1 1/2" long. The ones I purchased were 1 1/4" long, 13/16" head, 1/2" shoulder with the fine 7/16" thread. I tried one in my car and they fit and look good. The customer service was excellent, They shipped the same day. I ordered Wednesday and had them today. Goodmark Seat Belt Anchor Bolts GMK-4010-928-622. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gmk-4010-928-622/overview/ Thanks. Bill
  40. 1 point
    done! Cant wait to show my other car this year there.
  41. 1 point
    My guy (a retired heavy truck generator rebuilder) charges me less than $100 for most straightforward rebuilds. I don't think you'll be on the hook for a huge expense even if it needs a full rebuild. There's nothing complex or unfamiliar in there and I suspect that most of the parts are still available. Do it right and don't worry about it. My new favorite expression about trying to do old cars on the cheap: Pay a lot, cry once. Pay a little, cry often.
  42. 1 point
    From the Old Car Manual Project... Larger
  43. 1 point
    Looks GREAT! & very professional. Please e-mail the instructions to get in touch with your shop for one for myself. ... what was your cost?
  44. 1 point
    I need to slow DOWN! I just got around to viewing these videos. Really, really excellent coverage! Hey everyone, share a link to this thread to everyone you know. It would be a great way to share our hobby with those that are not familiar with us!
  45. 1 point
    WOW! Finally someone has put together an educational fun look at the cars that you get to see at the Hershey Fall meet. Gives a great overview of the cars that many people never get the chance to see, and you almost never get the time to listen to the owners talk about their cars. Hope to see many more featured in the future. Bob
  46. 1 point
    Has been at this guy's place for about 7 years, and he got it out of the field of the first owner. It last registered in 1980...
  47. 1 point
    Here is the 65 my dad had back in the 60s when my parents were dating. In a field of Wildcats, Lesabres and Skylarks, this was his favorite car.... Here is the 64 I bought my dad since I knew he would never get something like this on his own. After I drove 10 hours to Pennsylvania I found out it was an original Super Wildcat dual quad car.... This winters project is new springs, shocks, and steering components refresh. We have been hitting the car show circuit the past few years. This was the first car show, at a Chevy dealer. And the first trophy - "Best of the 60s". As usual, we were the only Riviera in the show and beat out a ton of Chevelles, Corvettes, and Camaros.
  48. 1 point
    If you are looking for an Argent Silver paint match, you may want to try Krylon Dull Aluminum #1403. Its a long time favorite among restorers.
  49. 1 point
    OK Nova: I use Flitz metal polish and apply it with trippple ott steel wool. It shines up great. Wipe it off with a clean micro fiber cloth and you will love the sparkle. The grille and parking grilles could also be sprayed with the wire wheel cleaner (acid). Be careful not to let it sit more than a minute, don't get it on the paint job and rinse well. If necessary repeat the process. You will see the crud melt off the gray paint and once again you'll love the sparkle. I have done this process at least 100 times and I am still surprised at the results. Good luck, Mitch.
  50. 1 point
    I understand that Mr. Miller was an enigima with many but we visited him at different times when i was a teenager with my dad in the late sixties and seventies plus i had lunch with Mrs Miller a few months before she passed away and spent her last winter in Montclair, New Jersey. She treated me to apple pie with cedar cheese for desert. We lived in St. Johnsbury,Vermont. He always treated us like gold plus we helped shore up the foundation of the house more than once. I am not sure what all trades that he did after that time but i remember vividly at time a Minverva from the late twenties and a custom Stutz Blackhawk body, a coupe i think with out an engine in additon to his driver which was a VW, the bearcats ( which he fabricated alot of the metal work ), KDH, Franklins, HCSs etc. He was very religous but perhaps his zeal for Stutz parts clouded his vision on what he was really wanted to give up in a trade when he came down to the deal. He collected old typewriters, plus gave me a look at his collection of presidential political buttons. One of the most amazing items i remember is an actual copy of a an abraham lincoln note to General Meade during the battle of gettysburg. I was told later that note did not surface during the search after his death and hers. I was told a copy was found but not the original. He stayed in contact with my father for years. One funny note is that once Mrs Miller was complaining to my mother about cutting the grass with only three wheels on a lawnmower. Her quote was " thousands of dollars, trades for old cars but he will not fix this lawnmower ".