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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/17/2016 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Since Adam made this car so dang shiny, I have started to upgrade the chrome pieces that were not as shiny, starting with the rear bumper. Here it is last weekend at the first show of the season!
  2. 4 points
    Until he paints SCALLOPS on at least one FITTY FO, he is just a moderator,. IMO Dale in Indy
  3. 3 points
    I think most of us would like to know at least a first name and where in the country some of you live. I personally like to address folks by their real name vs their user id but can't always ( more like never) remember their names. It would also be nice to know what part of the country you are in. And also what year/model Buick you have would be nice too So please consider adding a signature by going to the top right hand corner of the page, clicking the down arrow next to your id, then click account settings then signature. That will bring up a box that you may enter whatever info you would like. You can also enter your location beneath your avatar by going to and clicking the same down arrow then Profile then Edit Profile.
  4. 3 points
    Matt, go to Profile then Edit Profile then in the Member Title add whatever describes you, as you can see I just revised mine.
  5. 2 points
    I'd very strongly recommend that you remove the oil pan and clean both it and the oil pump intake screen before considering starting the engine. And do it before you run the oil pump ! To not do so, even if you were to use a non-detergent oil for the initial start-up, is just begging for trouble down the line.
  6. 2 points
    And they will outlast many pairs of replacement tube shocks. If you keep them full of fluid they will never wear out. The only things that goes wrong are leaks and links. Rebuilders will fix the leaks (or you can fix yourself --- see my website); links are available replacement items. The reason they went to tube shocks: they are cheaper!
  7. 2 points
    The Cascada has the potential to bring a lot of interest to Buick-- especially if it proves as reliable as the most reliable models on today's market. I'm not so sold on the high rear end, though, as it takes away from the grace of the car's profile. Offering more than the current 6 blase colors would carry them farther. With so many cars in mall parking lots being gray, and many others being black, white, and the same pedestrian tones, Buick could be a stand-out if they offered 15 paint colors--at at least 4 interior colors--as they did for many years. Even people who aren't car fans like us want to express some individuality with their cars. Porsche, for one, offers a "Paint to Sample" program, where a buyer can pay extra and have absolutely any color he chooses. Porsche also offers ANY interior color a buyer may want, at extra cost. As it doesn't cost more to paint a Buick than a Porsche, Buick executives need to take extra steps like this to make this car a stand-out.
  8. 2 points
    Looks like an invasion of Storm Troopers.
  9. 2 points
    Dale, I just returned from the museum. I took a lot of photo's and measured a lot of dimensions. The museum staff there gave me some photo's of the Bug that they have, when the cowling was off for some engine work. The way that the Bug is constructed, the cowling is actually the front half of the body, and comes off as one unit. You will be able to see that in the photo's. There are more photo's than i can post here, so if you will PM me you mailing address, I will send you a photo CD and a list of measurements that I took. The museum staff was impressed with the photo's of your Miller that I took to show them, and wondered if you would be interested in displaying the Bug at the museum when it was finished (on loan of course). It would look pretty neat next to the real Bug. Once you get the photo's and measurements, you can let me know if you need something else more specific. Dave
  10. 2 points
    No rim code, 2 inch hole (no bigger!) for caps, Has a ring on the back side, part number 123377. I know that because I am an RoA member! See attachment...
  11. 2 points
    Ed, Thank You, in the past I have taken a straight on side photo shot, and once I knew the overall length, I could then scale the lines, etc from that. I then have enlarged the photo to the length I wanted, or the scale I was wanting. In this case I want a 1/4th. scale, it will be my largest model. So if wheel base is 100", then I will build to 25". If length of the Buick Bug is 160". which I don't know to be fact, then the model will be 40". I am excited about this build, it will be my FIRST all 'Buick' build. My GM FuturLiner is Buick inspired, as is the 1925 Miller. I did build the 1946 Detroit parade Buick float, but only the float, the Buick vert riding on it is a purchased piece. With each of my builds, I add more detail, so wanting this to be packed full of detail. I THANK you ALL for your help/support. Dale in Indy
  12. 2 points
  13. 1 point
    Came across this on the CL. Looks like a nice one. http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/5589630584.html
  14. 1 point
    Thinking about selling the 33 PD because another project has come up I would like to allocate these funds for. Wondering what other people might value it at. It seems to be in original condition. I do not see anything missing either. No rust or body damage. Worst part is the motor is tired but still runs fairly well yet. It smokes especially going down hill. Othetwise great oil pressure and no overheating since cleaning up the radiator and water passages. Only thing not factory is the hidden voltage regulator in the generator. Interior is in tack but is starting to dry rot from age. Wiring is similar shape. My kids and I still drive it regularly but sometimes in this hobby we have to open up a parking space. Any thoughts/opinions would be appreciated.
  15. 1 point
    Dale, if you can PM me your mailing address, I'll get that material out to you tomorrow.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Hi, that's probably for what are called #6 wheels, possibly the smaller #5 size { I don't have any caps nearby to measure}. They were used on quite a few higher end makes, in roughly the 1926- 1933 era. Standard on a few, an extra cost option on many. No trucks as far as I know. Look at nearly any Duesenberg J photo and you will see # 6 wheels . Likewise many Stutz vertical 8's used # 5's. The slightly earlier pin drive style wheels used a different system to lock and release the caps and a different style of wrench.
  18. 1 point
    Yes. But you'll have to remove the register ring inside the wheel. The wheels will no longer be "hub centric" but there are many of us '63 and '64 owners who have made this switch. The wheels will be centered with the lug nuts rather than the register ring. Anytime you see a '63 or '64 Riviera with the factory rally wheels, you know that this is the case. One exception, IF you find a set of '64 wheels, they'll not have the register ring, but they were only available on the WIldcat. Those wheels were not available as an option on the Riviera until 1965. Ed
  19. 1 point
    "Best Moderator in Cyberspace!" I like it.
  20. 1 point
    Dave, YOU is the man!!!!!!!! Thank You very much, and YES I would be happy to display the BUG at the museum. As stated B4, I am going after MORE detail than any build B4, my father is probably looking down and cheering me on, he was/is a very loyal Buick guy. Dale in Indy
  21. 1 point
    As far has the horizontal bar across the grille goes - yeah, that's a bit Chrysler-ish, but otherwise I don't think it looks a bit like a Sebring. I think the Buick looks more muscular where the petnastar looks pretty milquetoast to me. Maybe the Buick isn't quite International Raceway material, but the only central Florida vision that comes to my mind when looking at the Chrysler is blue-hairs clogging up US 27 in the town of its namesake. Another thought on the grille: Waterfall - Cascade - Cascada... How did they miss that?
  22. 1 point
    A breaker bar maybe, but I would put the truck in high gear and hook a chain to it and pull gently with the Jimmy. If that doesn't work try pulling backwards. If you pull so hard that it slides you may bend a rod. So, pull gently !! I have knocked engines loose by using the high gear method and simply rocking the car by hand to pop them loose.
  23. 1 point
    X2 - my initial reactions exactly. The least it needs is a waterfall grill.
  24. 1 point
    After doing a quick search, it looks like they used Rochester and Carters just like Buick. When I was looking, I only noticed the silencer on 55 to 57 models. I haven't seen the silencer on any other GM car.
  25. 1 point
    If you want the car judged in AACA judging, you need to buy the correct bias ply tires. The bias look radials will cost you a significant number of points. If you want the car to look like it did when new, you should buy the correct bias ply tires. If you think you have to have radials for some reason and want it to look closer to original but don't care about authenticity or judging, you can buy the bias look radials.
  26. 1 point
    If you are going to actually drive it any distance, go with the new chassis, but keep the old one, restore it and store it away. Best of both worlds! You will be safer for road trips as the newer chassis will have better brakes, better ride, better economy, more power (especially if you go with a diesel) and better reliability not to mention part availability while away from home. If you don't plan to go many miles, restore the chassis, repair all that is needed and live life! Like it has been said before, the danger in splits are while mounting. If they blow at just about any point, that is almost always operator error. I've mounted too many to count, never saw one blow because I knew what I was doing. CLEAN the ring and wheel thoroughly before assy, be 110% sure it's seated fully, inflate in a cage slowly making sure the ring remains in it's seated and upright position.
  27. 1 point
    Also, only the 64 and 65 wheels have no "crease" in the surface surrounding the lug nut holes. If you see a crease in the metal forming a circle right outside the lug nut holes you are looking at a 66 and up wheel. Note in this picture that the metal is smooth in the area outside of the lug nut holes with no crease...... This is a picture of a 64 wheel. The 65 is the same except the 65 has a register ring on the back. These 64 wheels which originally came off of a 64 Wildcat were installed on my 65 Riviera in 1967. Since this picture was taken I have painted the background the correct for 65 Charcoal color.
  28. 1 point
    I hope it changes as the southern NJ folks have planned a good one and best yet it is closest event to me only a 3 hour tow. Same 3 hrs as the Virginia Beach last year Robert
  29. 1 point
    Groan.... Groannnn Groannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
  30. 1 point
    John et. al.: This question applies to many different years and many different marques. So if John is asking to put a year in the title, it is not applicable to just one year. If you request is not adding the year, please clarify your request.
  31. 1 point
    OH, you broke his heart, PRE-54, Dale in Indy
  32. 1 point
    Take a look at the video below and check back for more updates!
  33. 1 point
    Agree with the marvel oil and the breaker bar but would add some PB-Blaster to the brew. If you can't find MMO, ATF+Blaster will work well also. Inject oil & Blaster and put the plugs back in. Then pull the plugs before you try to turn. I'd also change the oil one quart short and add a quart of Dextron ATF (20 wt super high detergent). Run a couple of hours at varying speeds low/no load then change the oil & filter again. Twer me I'd use a high milage synthetic the second time. Any more the cost difference between dino and synthetic is in the noise.
  34. 1 point
    Good looking Ford. Don't worry the 351 will pull that car around very nicely. So would have the 390 if it was still there. You didn't mention the type of transmission. Anyway, I would drain and refill, what ever transmission is in it. If it is an automatic, pull the pan and change the filter also. intimeold
  35. 1 point
    I'm on it ! . Anyone want to buy a Titan set , I'll take 41.75 for it ( slightly used )
  36. 1 point
    You don't understand, fast in a paint job or fast in a restoration usually is spelled CRAP. I don't mean to be harsh, but good paint jobs take prep work, good restorations take time, sometimes lifetimes!
  37. 1 point
    I have filled the hole with JB Weld and filed it smooth. I have put on a new gasket along with the steel plate that goes between the gasket and the carb. Hopefully this will keep any more damage from being done.
  38. 1 point
    Let's go back to the gooey stuff on the shoes and drums. Your front wheel bearing seal is bad. That's wheel bearing grease on the drums and shoe. It will cause a wheel to lock in a heart beat even with little pressure. Pull the seal out of the drum. Pack the bearings with wheel bearing grease and install a new seal. You will most likely never get this out of the shoes, so plan on replacing them. You should be in good shape after thisl
  39. 1 point
    * I am not much of a poetry writer; or, at least, I was not, until I was introduced to a short & sweet form. Then, I wrote 4 & several more in rapid succession, including this 1 about music & radio: http://www.oldcarsstronghearts.com/2016/05/15/daily-dose-savvy-sun-63/ ALSO linked are 3 more describing: cars & life (Monday), my repaired heart (Wednesday) & the road as my home (Friday). Bet we all know of or have participated in a father-son project, but how about a grandfather-grandson project? This smart Ford Model A was done by a friend & his grandfather! http://www.oldcarsstronghearts.com/2016/05/13/friday-files-63/ A peek at more of my own model displays, which really need to be rearranged at some point: http://www.oldcarsstronghearts.com/2016/05/09/monday-night-fun-63/ Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com pigValve.paceMaker.cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic "Every hands a winner & every hands a loser" __ Kenny Rogers __ 'The Gambler'
  40. 1 point
    For any swap meet I would like to see a reserved area for mostly vintage/prewar cars and parts,It would save a lot of walking.
  41. 1 point
    I prefer the large photos as it's easier to see detail due to the clarity.
  42. 1 point
    I would use the factory brake setup. Why do so many folks think they must go to disc brakes?
  43. 1 point
    OK, here's another of the 24 Boat Top Buick.
  44. 1 point
    While I am not an expert on this particular car, here are a few thoughts: Certainly the brakes, as thoroughly discussed above. I would replace the fluid, check/rebuild the wheel cylinders, and inspect the lines. I echo the remarks that drum brakes are quite effective, if in good working order. Nothing wrong with disc conversion, though, if you have the cash. Of course, check all fluids, including transmission and differential. Steering box, too, if applicable, and grease fittings as well. Next to brakes, the most important safety item is steering, so check king pins or ball joints for play, tie rod ends, and drag link. Steering alignment. Re-pack wheel bearings. If you are going to do highway speed driving, then you might want to check the age of the tires. You can do this from the code molded into each one. Needless to say, tire pressure should be on your list. Check water level in battery cells. A flush and replacement of antifreeze, or at least check temperature protection level and ph of the existing coolant. Replace the fuel filter. Also, if the carburetor has a filter screen at the fuel line entry, remove and clean it. Air filter. Check condition of belts and hoses. Tune up time? Plugs, cap, rotor, and points; plug wires. Check ignition timing. Check condition of exhaust pipe and hangers; some of them have rubber components that deteriorate over time. Lubricate things like the door hinges and hood hinges. By the way, make sure the hood latch works properly and is installed correctly (ask me why I say that!). Even your key sockets could stand a little lube from time to time. Oh the fun you will have... Good luck with your new car!
  45. 1 point
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zI8TXhxIp8w Some video of my car running. You will notice a lot of exterior parts missing...only because they have been removed and stored away.
  46. 1 point
    Roger, As I have said before your work is amazing. Larry
  47. 1 point
    Didn't Ford offer disk brakes in 66 (may have been on the T'bird). None of my cars stay stock for long (Judge had drums, now has disks) but that and a dual master I'd consider "safety of family". 4 wheel disks are nice but fronts do most of the work so I would not bother with rears.
  48. 1 point
    Bump your AAA towing to 100 miles and drive the hell out of it. Fix what breaks and drive it some more. Keep your cell phone in your pocket and if you feel uneasy about the car only shut it off at friends houses. Thoroughly study and have a firm understanding of the concepts of this set of laws: http://www.murphys-laws.com/murphy/murphy-true.html. Then you'll know by getting the extended coverage you will probably never need it. I bought that extra coverage when I got my first Jaguar, thinking it the prudent thing to do. My Wife thinks it's funny because I have only used it on the Buick.....twice! Bernie
  49. 1 point
    I'm all over and up to date on the 66 Galaxie 500. The drum brakes provide plenty of stopping power, power brakes make it easy for everyone and if you really feel the need, the front suspension from a late model Ford Crown Vic will fit with work. (plenty of old police interceptor parts available) Two things to keep in mind with drum brakes: 1. If you run them through a deep puddle they will flood and you will want to ride the peddle some to dry them out before you need to use them. 2. Self adjusters only work when they want to and when they get to dirty they don't work at all. Pulling the drums and cleaning the hardware is normal maintenance, when hand adjusting the front wheels spin the tire and adjust so that both sides stop spinning after the same number of revolutions. Being a bit on the lazy side I go for a turn and a half and let nature take it's course. There was the 7 liter motor and there was the Galaxie 7 liter model. My brother was in the process of acquiring everything needed to turn his 66 fastback into the 7 liter model when somebody knocked on his door and offered him more cash than he could say no to. The 7 liter interior went with the car, engine block and parts to build the 428ci stayed in his garage.
  50. 1 point