Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/01/2016 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    My name is Jan and some of you might now me from the 1954 Buick forum. I've got a 1954 Buick Special Riviera, which was my kick-start for the Buick hobby. I didn't had much time to drive her in the past years, because of another project. After I bought my 54 Buick, I met MrEarl and we started the 54 Buick Highway at www.1954buick.com. Besides that I collected everything that was for sale about 54 Buicks. That was the beginning of the reference part of the forum. Some sellers had packages of old Buick stuff, plus I started to take a look at other model years, too. Today, about ten years and over 3,000 collected, scanned and digitalized items later, I am very happy to announce the launch of my time-robbing project HOMETOWN BUICK. My dream to provide all major info to all 1950s Buick owners & fans finally came true. You will find for all model years: All models Production statistics Interior trims Exterior colors Body Tag & VIN plate decode Info Lists of optional equipment Online literature Videos Wallpapers & much more Here is the full story: http://www.hometownbuick.com/hometown-buick/ You can also explore the my collection which I call the "Hometown Buick Collection". I will add items continuously. You can visit my new website at www.hometownbuick.com. I hope you enjoy it! If you have anything to add or improve, please let me know! Honest feedback is very much appreciated!
  2. 2 points
    The owner of the website had posted an introduction to his new site earlier down in the Garages and Memorabilia forum. I will move it up to General for better exposure and pin it for a time.
  3. 1 point
    I need a little help with date/age of this automobile. Its all mostly there plus many extras.. like motor parts and headlights. Located in Mississippi. Looks like some type of deliver truck or something along that lines. I can take other pics as requested. Plus I need to dig boxes of others parts out of shed to photograph. Any info would be helpful. The poor thing is just rotting away sitting in the southern humidity. It was under some protective cover but that has gave way and fallen over. Luckily it didnt fall on this piece of history.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    OK, so the movie didn't come out until 66, but it pretty much describes this car. This is the second of the cars I purchased as group from my Father-in-law's estate. The 54 Roadmaster has been mentioned elsewhere. I've always loved 1st gen Rivieras, but lots of things show that this might not be 'the one'. The car does have AC, but not much else in the way of upgrades. The good - Its shiny and red! (the original color was a maroon). The seats look like they might be originals in good condition. The motor is the original 401. Obviously it has been worked on because the top end is now painted Buick Green. The short time I had it running it seems to run ok. The Bad - Lots of loose wires hanging down under the dash. Interior bits disassembled for unknown reasons. The Ugly - An appraisal done in 2000 states that the car is 'too rusty to restore'. This is because the floor pan and cross braces are rusted out and have been replaced with random bits of sheet metal and fiberglass. The rear body mounts are gone too. Looks like the outer sills have been replaced, but not the inners as you can see straight through them to the inside of the outers. Interestingly, the trunk floor only has two medium size holes in it and the rear quarters seem to be ok. Surprising, given the obvious leak around the rear window. The car wouldn't run beyond the gas I put in the carb bowls, so I pulled the fuel line and wasn't getting anything out of the pump. I purchased a new pump (then found one in all the misc. parts), however, with the car up on the lift I could see the feed line from the tank had decayed and collapsed, so the pump wasn't getting any fuel either. I've pulled the tank, drained the bad gas and had it cleaned out. It was very rusty, as was the pickup and sending unit. If it ever warms up and stops snowing here, I'll get this back together and will be able to see how it runs. The long list of needs the car has could spell its doom. The car sits crooked because the left side springs have collapsed. There is corrosion around the water pump and the heater core and the radiator seems to be seeping. All of the rubber is dried up and rotted. It will be easy to get seriously upside down on this car in a hurry. So my plan is to take it slow, get it running and driving and try to make decisions about work on the car as money, time and other priorities allow. Scott
  6. 1 point
    Robert Trail posted a link to this site on Buick Fireball Eights FB page. I have just briefly perused it, and must say it is a virtual treasure-trove of '50s Buick info. http://www.hometownbuick.com/
  7. 1 point
    My '57 Model 73 Roadmaster Riviera Sedan, a driver, at the Caroilnas Aviation Museum with a Piedmont Airlines DC-3.
  8. 1 point
    G body forums will be very helpful for your car. Found this list of color codes and manufacturers' paint codes with a search for Olds interior color codes: 1983 -1984: ***Dark Maple 77 (81-84) Ditzler #: S.G.: 72415 L.G.: 72435 Dupont #: S.G.: D8391 or Dupont #: S.G.: C8115 L.G.: C8129 W12A7298 S.G. W5A7298 flat Medium MapleDitzler #: S.G.: 72568 Very Dark Maple W12A8284 S.G. W5A8284 flat Here's a link to the thread on the "gbodyolds" forum: http://www.gbodyolds.com/forum/showthread.php?240-78-88-Cutlass-Interior-Color-RPO-Code-Index I find this forum to be helpful: https://gbodyforum.com/ Yes, the molded headliner substrate for 81 and 84 is the same part (for the same body style). I used the 3M high strength trim adhesive for small repairs on my headliner. Most Auto Supply stores carry it. 3M™ Spray Trim Adhesive, 3M ID 60980044394, UPC 00051131080744
  9. 1 point
    I'd like to congratulate Jan on the Grand Opening of HOMETOWN BUICK and say well done sir. I have known of the project for several years but must admit am truly amazed at the finished product. But knowing Jan as I do I am sure there will be even more to come in the way of updates and new features. I feel we are privileged to have been selected by Jan as a venue for opening and hosting his new site. The features and amount of material he has allowed FREE access to is quite spectacular. The books and literature he offers for sale are all top quality print and material. It is a joy to see this young mans dream become a reality.
  10. 1 point
    http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_79498-Buick-Roadmaster-76-C-1952.html http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_79503-Buick-Special-46-R-1956.html http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_79476-Buick-Super-1947.html http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_79476-Buick-Super-1947.html
  11. 1 point
    Yea the guy that runs that site, posted a link in a thread about paint color. It IS a very cool site though!
  12. 1 point
    Yes, Murco, the Hildebrand products are expensive. The solder paste I bought before from Castolin was, in relation to the quantity, less expensive, but after 2 years the product was no more good. Vinegar is a good product to remove unwanted residues from silver soldering; then I'm using sand paper to have a decent surface. On the present model, I'm using industrial 2-K primer; it the paint is thin enough, it's giving a nice surface. If you are looking at some pictures (engine and frame for example), the primer I used is from Duplicolor. Easier to apply (no tool to clean after use), but not so resistant than the industrial product. Anyway, as this stage of the construction, the primer is more a protection against further tarnishing from the metal than a real first coat. When the time will come to paint the model, all primed surfaces will be sanded and a new coat will be applied. Some modelers are using self-etching paint; it seems that this is not available in Switzerland or I don't know where to look for that product.
  13. 1 point
    Paulie, have a look at the one on the left: the blades are not quite the way I expected! Glad you like each new post!
  14. 1 point
    Thanks keiser31! If your body would be reduced at this scale, you would find many, many errors and strange things. Fortunately, without a magnifying glass, the result is decently looking! Now that the windows are moving with an electric motor, I should begin with the inside trim. This requires that the model has to be disassembled for practical reasons. To retard this event, I'm doing parts which will be used much later. For example, the A/C outlet grilles. They are located into the ceiling; I'm adding a picture from a real one. Those grilles are really small with the necessary details. These are not the best parts I did, but where they will be installed, the unequal distance between blades will hardly be noticed. And who will look at the ceiling? On the picture, a tool (to hold the blades during silver soldering) is on the left upper corner. A spare surround is on the right. Next step? the ash trays for the rear passengers.
  15. 1 point
    "in a flat bed Ford slowing down to take a look at me"...
  16. 1 point
    Do Baby Pictures count, Mr. Earl? These are my babies. I aspire one day to being the father again of a real live Opel. 1960 Rekord Car A Van 1962 Rekord Car A Van, similar to my first car (at age 15), a '65 Car A Van. A '60 Kapitan and '58 Rekord, for the record... TG
  17. 1 point
    I like 'em in all scales, but the focus has been on 1/43rd scale since the early '80's. Some people have thousands, I just have hundreds going back to my first Matchbox cars in 1964 which I still have; the '58 Cadillac Fleetwood and Bedford dump truck. One of the first Models of Yesteryear I got was the R-R Sliver Ghost (nudge, nudge Keiser31), now proudly displayed with many others. I regret the ones I wrecked, shot with BB guns or obliterated with firecrackers. Sure wish I hadn't wrecked all the original Hot Wheels! With the dizzying array of what's available now for the serious collector, there's no way to keep up, so I've slacked off. I keep 'em in Timex watch display fixtures (the kind you used to find in drug stores), on the wall in an old wooden fluorescent light cover, an old modified English china cabinet... Some are expensive white metal, some are cheap diecast, some are toys and some are still in their boxes, awaiting their turn for display. I keep telling myself some have got to go, but where to start? I did sell one, a Buick, to a friend here on the Forum, but it was a duplicate... Used the money to buy the latest, "The "Duchess," the '41 Fleetwood created for the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, GM's last bespoke automobile built for a private individual. I still shoot 'em, the 1/43rds, but with a camera, and it's more fun than a barrel of monkeys! Look for "The Duchess" soon... TG
  18. 1 point
    I know the feeling very well, I myself almost feel bored at times I have been collecting and restoring Chevrolet's for almost 40 years. I spcifically was involved with same 4 years of production. I felt there was not much to learn or see, an even contemplated getting out of the hobby. While I still stayed with Chevrolet's I bought one 30 years older then the ones I collected and it freshened things up. I was fortunate that I had both the space and money to keep my other cars, The change was good for me. I ended up selling that car realizing it was not my cup of tea, and I appreciated the ones that caught my interest in the first place. If it is a car that really makes your mouth water then go for it, if you never do it you might always regret it. You can find another Mustang. Good luck with your decision
  19. 1 point
    I have an 89 Caprice Classic in mint condition and I love it! Rides like a Caddy and that long hood looks great! My dad had a 77 Impala. Same body style. GM kept it for 20 Years so they must have considered it a success!
  20. 1 point
    I totally understand where you're coming from. I started my '41 Buick restoration 15 years ago. Fifteen! I have recently come to the realization that my life has changed and I won't be able to personally finish it and will be sending it to a professional shop shortly to get it done before I'm old. In the meantime, I've discovered the old adage that it's always cheaper to buy than build. I have bought several "permanent" members of my collection, including a 1929 Cadillac and a 1966 Mustang convertible, and have just acquired a 1941 Buick Limited limousine that I'm sorely tempted to keep. At any rate, I digress. You're making a smart decision. If you're not enjoying the journey or don't see a way that you can shepherd your Mustang to completion, sell it and move on. I think your choice of a Buick is an excellent decision, not just because I'm a Buick guy, but as a collector car dealer, I see that Buicks are huge bang for the buck. I have a 1971 Skylark convertible that is a car I would happily own forever and I have a 1970 Skylark convertible coming in that will be bargain priced in relative terms (under $20K). You couldn't touch a 1970 V8 Chevelle or GTO convertible in very good condition for that price, despite being very similar cars. You're making the right choice. I know it feels like you're betraying the car, yourself, your friends, and your family by "giving up," but I think you'll find that being behind the wheel with your family will help you build different memories that are good for everyone. It's my personal motto to enjoy life while I'm young enough to do it. Soon enough I'll be old and driving big, heavy old cars will be a challenge, so I'm doing it now, while I can. I suggest you do the same. The future will take care of itself, enjoy the now!
  21. 1 point
    Key is to always have at least one you can have fun now with. If that means just one then that is the place to start. If you do not feel you can be happy without a convertible/manual trans/V8/ &/or AC then that is what you should look for. And I guarantee that if you look, you will find. Do not know how many cars I've had but off the top of my head & only counting ones I had for at least 3 months: Jaguars (4 -actually 9 before took the cure inc XK-140MC, XK 150S, XKE, Devin Jag), MG (2), FIATs (3), Renault Caravelle (1), Corvettes (3), Camaros (4), Corvairs (5 inc. a Fitch Sprint & a Corvan), Firebirds (1 - OHC 6), Vegas (3), Astre (1), Sunbird (1), Cadillacs (2 & looking not very hard for a XLR), Grand Prixs (3- B, G, & W bodies), GTOs (2- Judge and Goat Wagon), Fieros (5), Reattas (5), Buick GS (1), Crossfire (1), Jeep (1), Olds (Cutlass with a 215: 1), Volkswagen Westphalia & Vixen RVs (Both with manual transmissions). Would say that 3/4 had manual transmissions - 1/2 of current herd do now and all have AC including the camper. Have almost always had at least one convertible. All could be driven now, most to LaLa land tomorrow (Turnpike to I-75, left at Lake City, on 'til you reach water). So make a list. In one column put what the car must have. In the other list what you want it to have. Decide how much to spend and how far you will go. Look until you find. Take a magnet if not Corvettes.
  22. 1 point
    At a car show last weekend, a vendor had sequencing tail lamps. They are a Mustang parts vendor but they claim their system does not care what the car is. These are custom made LED bulb assemblies that replace 1157 bulbs. They build in a delay into each bulb no special wiring, just new bulbs installed in the correct order and a new flasher. Their web site = www.mustangproject.com They do not list the Reatta but the owner did not see a problem.......the only one I see is the price....he said $165. their site says $185 for a 3 bulb system ....also said they had a lifetime guarantee
  23. 1 point
    The factory never intended for these cars to stay on the road as long as they have. Many areas of the car were assembled with no treatment of the metal in the seams. In areas like the weatherstrip channels shown below all of the weatherstrips were removed, blasted clean, treated for rust prevention, and new ones welded in place. After doing this the weather strip channels are then blasted again and sealed in epoxy.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Done, with a black Z34 wheel. And working fine. Here's an idea though. Instead of tucking the resistor behind the lock plate, go under the dash. Pull the male end of that connector from a donor car and splice in your resistor there. That way, no cutting on the car and it is plug and play.