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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/29/2016 in Posts

  1. Carter used some very thin nickel or "flash chrome" on some of the shafts (throttle, choke, intermediate). The arms and indigenous linkages on most carburetors would have been zinc or cad. This changed with some of the "9000 series" aftermarket carbs in the late 1970's. A VERY FEW Carter carburetors had the linkage chromed for appearance reasons (supposedly). Examples would be the WD-0 carbs used on the V-16 Cadillac, and the YH carbs used on turbo-charged Corvair. Carter even chrome-plated the tags on these units. The bodies on these units, after the chromate protection process, w
    3 points
  2. That book was printed in 1926. The only other information I have on Buick serial numbers is attached:
    2 points
  3. Exactly why I don't enter judged shows
    2 points
  4. 1 point
  5. Robert Trail posted a link to this site on Buick Fireball Eights FB page. I have just briefly perused it, and must say it is a virtual treasure-trove of '50s Buick info. http://www.hometownbuick.com/
    1 point
  6. I have been trying to clean my old Stromberg Aeroflyte carb from my 1949 Roadmaster. It's very dirty and varnished. I'd like it to be clean and look factory and not too glossy. I hit it with carb cleaner I had in a can then with laquer thinner and a toothbrush. Those work but there is a lot of residue yet. I'd rather not take it a part since it is working fine but realize I probably should just rebuild it. I looked at 4-5 youtube videos advising boiling in water and lemon juice, pinesol, vineagar and/or simple green. Some suggested sno-bol toilet cleaner (yikes). Many advise
    1 point
  7. Nice collections...I didn't see any like this, so I thought I'd share...my only keychain. I bought it to use but it's too nice! -Frank
    1 point
  8. Well, I might as well jump in here with the "Baby".
    1 point
  9. Allen, You will have to pull the speedo and take off the back "can". Inside you will most likely find a set of "fins" that rotate around a drum which is magnetic. The fins are attached to the cable drive and are probably being "return to zero" limited by dirt or grease from the cable. Not a big deal to clean this out. HOWEVER, do not spray this area with brake cleaner, as it will take the numbers off the odometer drums. Ask me how I know. This opinion comes from me doing this fix on my '40 Buick. Mine was grease that was pumped up the cable right
    1 point
  10. I wouldn't buy anything from someone as dirty as that....specially since I know how dirty your mind is!
    1 point
  11. All, I can add to the excellent advice here is to hasten slowly and DON'T pull it apart, that has been death to so many old cars, as Unimogjohn says. My advice? Dont paint it. Neutralise the door rust, fix the floor, replace the rear bar with one that isnt rechromed so it looks consistent with the rest of the car. Clean it up, put some tyres on it and get it driving nicely. Then, stand back and think about where to next. At least this way, if you change your mind, you will have something to sell and you won't have over capitalised, much..... John
    1 point
  12. Yea the guy that runs that site, posted a link in a thread about paint color. It IS a very cool site though!
    1 point
  13. I'd say a car isn't a race car until it races.
    1 point
  14. BillHymer with your permission I want to crash the party & "like" or join your group not to hang out there, I am clearly too old - mainly help promote it by inviting some Under 40s I know who are pretty involved in prewar cars that are not active on this forum. They are out there, one is an aspiring collector car dealer around 29 or so, one is building a T Speedster to museum standards and Chris Summers, who frequents this forum and probably second only to Randy Emma in terms of Duesenberg knowledge also comes to mind, He is on FB a lot more than here these days. Those guys are all in t
    1 point
  15. So -- I think I've got it. Checked the power from the HVAC Programmer, had proper volts. (Thanks Ronnie) Finally, I found a used fan power module, plugged it in and voila, the fan works. Now I have to check and clean the evaporator while in the area. (Thanks Barney)
    1 point
  16. There is nothing wrong with the model, and if you have a nice one that is great. The issue I have with this particular car is that it needs 25k worth of work to be a 6k car.
    1 point
  17. Yes, cars of today are supposed to be safer due to materials, design, and as you said, scientifically tested crumple zones. And as you have also seen, cars of years past were heavier with thicker gauge steel but that created a problem. They were so stiff (pre 1966 safety standards beginning) that people were injured more by the hard G-force impacts of non giving hard steel body and chassis designs because you were thrown harder upon impact than if the car crumpled and absorbed the impact. I am sure they were probably safer in slow speed crashes or non violent rollovers but more high speed im
    1 point
  18. I always think of them as Lincoln Continentals, Just for fun I did a Bing search for pictures under, 63 Lincoln, and 63 Continental, and came up with hundreds of images under wither name. Then for reference I put in 49 Riviera, and found far more pictures of 49 Buicks... Not quite sure how to read those results, but it was a fun search. I did note, I prefer the original thin stripe white walls vs the fat whites.
    1 point
  19. David, I knew would chime in. Yes it was the highlight of my trip to Australia along with the ride in the Maxwell! Tom Muth
    1 point
  20. Rod: Thanks for the photo. Such a shame It looks like it was a model 54 Sport Roadster. If my son (who drives flat bed out to the region) could only drag it home for me!
    1 point
  21. I love mine, and it gets as much attention at shows than all the "trailer queens".
    1 point
  22. Judging in AACA is all visual, so there's a deduction for a battery that doesn't appear to be period correct. An Optima battery under the hood of an otherwise beautiful car will draw a deduction. Battery doesn't have to be old, it just has to be correct to the car. This is fairly generic on most cars, but very specific on some cars, such as early Thunderbirds which had a very distinct shaped battery.....
    1 point
  23. I do know that the spider gear Thrust bushings are brass on my 32 Buick differential. I use the GL4 in there also. Why risk it, and it's easier to have just one lubricant when practical. Bob Engle
    1 point
  24. Not fair! I was distracted by a shiny object.
    1 point
  25. Tried to put water in the engine , but the frezze plugs was to rusty , so i had to take away the intake and exhaust I have hard to find new fryzze plugs , eny suggestions where to get new ??? ust
    1 point
  26. Not under 40 but have the same interest..
    1 point
  27. …. thanks Jon for your professional input. Think I will now replate my linkages arms and such in nickel. Van Nuys Plating in Van Nuys, CA has done good by me. They have silver cadmium plated ( The real Deal ) all my bolts and transmission linkages so far and did good. Gold cadmium plated ( The real deal as well ) my Moraine MC canister and did good on that as well. This time I will speak to them about nickel plating my linkages, shafts and such as I know they still do Hexavalent chrome plating ( The real deal - not dyed Trivalent ). Another route one can take is
    1 point
  28. So i so I took the first step and started a Facebook page...doubt it will go anywhere. What would be fun it to physically get together with people our age and promote the hobby and Facebook does not do that but it may help people connect. I called the Facebook page Generation X-Y-Z Prewar Motorcar Club. X-Y-Z is basically anyone born after 1966.
    1 point
  29. Agreed - Kudos to Matt for all his fine work. ... and for those who wondered about my reference to Sarah, the lovely Med-Student and daughter of my next door neighbors Diane and Jim, it was my honor to drive Sarah and her dad to the church, and to drive the delightful young couple to their reception at The Pavilion of the the Two Sisters in New Orleans' City Park
    1 point
  30. Jason, Welcome to the group. This group is very helpful, but we are more interested in keeping cars as they came from the factory so the original intent can be passed on to future generations of what the cars were like when they left the factory. If I can ask, why are you looking to change the front brakes from drum to disc? These cars very capable of stopping well when the brake system is maintained to factory specifications. You might want to check one of the other forums that hot rod cars if you really want to do this change, but most of us he
    1 point
  31. Not every car deserves to be saved. There are more crappy cars then dedicated souls to care for them. A dedicated enthusiast wasting their time on this means a more deserving ones goes wanting.
    1 point
  32. and he still claims to this day that he wasn't scared €€<<>^*~~}~,^*++>. But his white as a sheet face at the time didn't lie. That was on the way to Pal Buicks to pick up my first '54 Muscle, I may try a search for that. yep you'll always be the Buick Rascal Kid Thriller D
    1 point
  33. Here,s a 1925 master 128" w/b on Sacramento CL $500
    1 point
  34. I may be older than I was a few days ago, but I remain a relative youngster in these parts so I ought to be able to remember something. Who can forget Jordan's reaction to you waking him up to a tractor being towed....
    1 point
  35. Ok, ok I was just playing around. I guess I got spoiled in the past with quick responses. I guess it's from the days when all the women would gather around the wash basin (stream or wherever) and gossip.
    1 point
  36. I use GL1 140 CLASSIC GREEN GEAR OIL in the summer for the 38 Special transmission. I change it to GL1 90 CLASSIC GREEN GEAR OIL in the winter. The label states "free of EP additives for vintage applications". I don't use this in the rear axle, only the transmission. It is made by MILLER OILS and I buy it and get it delivered from AMAZON.COM. I use STA LUBE GEAR OIL 85 90 GL4 HYPOID in the rear axle.
    1 point
  37. Try http://www.hometownbuick.com/1957-buick-convertible-top/
    1 point
  38. Well I'm back. (sort of....) Had a meeting with the City official today over the yard conditions thing and while he wasn't impressed with my solution to put up a 10X20 portable garage in the back yard (where I would have rather put it beside the garage if things were NOT so wet) it did serve the purpose to hid the things my neighbour wasn't happy to see beside the garage so he's gone and hope the H*## to never see him again! Now will be calling the Building Standards Department Monday over the water run off on my property! This is going to affect three of them but I guess "wha
    1 point
  39. It would seem that Reo may have changed individual features one by one. Looking at a few pics on the net I see a progression from 1930 to 1933 of the radiator, hood louvres, windshield style and door hinges with a mix of each on different cars. From this I guess that Bing's car is a late 1932/early 1933 as the door hinges at the rear look to be a 1933 feature. From this one - everything is that same as Bing's except the radiator. I also see that comment with the '33 pic that there were several variants.
    1 point
  40. It can't possibly be cheap enough. I sold this one for less than $10,000. Low mileage, great colors, rust free, running and driving, felt like a new car. If you think you can elevate that one to this level for less than $10,000 then maybe you should buy it. But if you can't (and that color sure won't help at resale time, so figure maybe $7500), then let it go. They can't all be saved and grabbing cars up because they're cheap just wastes resources that you could dedicate to finishing other cars. My father never learned that lesson. At one point we had 12 or 13 mediocre
    1 point
  41. …. to remove cleaner and varnish residue, take kerosene and pour it into a small spray bottle. Apply the kerosene to the exterior and then let it set for about a minute then wipe completely with a clean cotton cloth. This will remove all the solute particles of the green yellow varnish which is old fuel residues from the surface. Repeat as necessary until clean. Jon: Good info. So for example, I have a Carter 2507 and have always wondered - It appears the choke arm linkages, throttle arms, throttle body shafts etc were nickel plated as were the external accelerator linkage a
    1 point
  42. Here are a few pictures of today's work. The side mouldings have a quarter inch black plastic bumper strip, but on the left side it has been pulled off completely at some point in the past. A large retailer in Canada, Canadian Tire sells a lot of vinyl pinstrips of various sizes and colours, and I found some that was the exact width, and in a black that closely matched the gloss of the original. It looks almost identical to the original, though of course it is not as thick. A bit hard to photograph well, but I hope that you can see the progress well enough. Keith
    1 point
  43. At least I "correctly" painted the pumpkin this time
    1 point
  44. That's a hazardous waste site. Be sure to call the EPA before your proceed.
    1 point
  45. These are some great pictures of membership cars. Wonderful Thread. Here are some favorites of my 28 Buick Standard Sport Touring. The oldest ones are from 1948. The man standing next to the car is my granddad. The one with all the family was taken in the summer of 55. That's my dad driving and my two older sisters plus me in back and a family friend. The last ones are about 2008. Thanks Dave_B
    1 point
  46. Our all-original 1937 Roadmaster 80C was purchased by the City of New York to serve as a Parade Car for Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia - "Little Flower". Fiorello retains all of the original interior, convertible top, drive-line, and paint (with touch-up to a few battle-scars received during parade service). The Roadmaster transported Sports and Political Dignitaries such as President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Vice-President Harry S. Truman, General Dwight David Eisenhower, General Douglas MacArthur, British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill, and many others as it served the city through
    1 point
  47. Well...... here goes.... These are some photo's of my '41 Buick, which I have owned since 1963. I won't go into the long story as to how I came to own the car, but it was my daily driver in my senior year at collage at GMI in Flint. My wife and I dated in the Buick before we got married after my graduation. After we were married and I bought a new 1965 Chevrolet SS, I thought about selling the Buick, but I just liked it too much to let it go (I never was very good at selling cars), so it saw occasional summer time use. I was already a member of the BCCA when it folded in 1965, and fin
    1 point
  48. Here are a couple of my 1912 Model 35. Gil Fitzhugh the Elder
    1 point
  49. I found the dam key! I guess it's time to make some copies, roll it out of the garage, and fire it up!
    1 point
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