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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/29/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Carter used some very thin nickel or "flash chrome" on some of the shafts (throttle, choke, intermediate). The arms and indigenous linkages on most carburetors would have been zinc or cad. This changed with some of the "9000 series" aftermarket carbs in the late 1970's. A VERY FEW Carter carburetors had the linkage chromed for appearance reasons (supposedly). Examples would be the WD-0 carbs used on the V-16 Cadillac, and the YH carbs used on turbo-charged Corvair. Carter even chrome-plated the tags on these units. The bodies on these units, after the chromate protection process, were painted black. The above is not to say that you will not find other finishes. Hot-rodders and other enthusiasts have been modifying cars probably since the first car was sold. When we were still rebuilding/restoring carbs, one of the treatments we used was derived from the afore-mentioned V-16 carbs; painting the carbs with gloss black (we used epoxy paint) and chroming the linkages. This link is a sample: If you look closely, you can see the greenish chromate finish where the air cleaners would attach. Difficult to tell from the picture, but the attaching screws are also chromed. Jon.
  2. 2 points
    That book was printed in 1926. The only other information I have on Buick serial numbers is attached:
  3. 2 points
    Exactly why I don't enter judged shows
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Robert Trail posted a link to this site on Buick Fireball Eights FB page. I have just briefly perused it, and must say it is a virtual treasure-trove of '50s Buick info. http://www.hometownbuick.com/
  6. 1 point
    I have been trying to clean my old Stromberg Aeroflyte carb from my 1949 Roadmaster. It's very dirty and varnished. I'd like it to be clean and look factory and not too glossy. I hit it with carb cleaner I had in a can then with laquer thinner and a toothbrush. Those work but there is a lot of residue yet. I'd rather not take it a part since it is working fine but realize I probably should just rebuild it. I looked at 4-5 youtube videos advising boiling in water and lemon juice, pinesol, vineagar and/or simple green. Some suggested sno-bol toilet cleaner (yikes). Many advised an ultrasonic set up vibe (I have a tiny one for jewelry that linkage might fit in). Then there was M.E.K that seemed to do a good job but like laquer thinner, some of this stuff is just not good for the ol' lungs! Been there, done that? Any ideas out there from the group on doing this with it all together? And then how about taken apart?
  7. 1 point
    Nice collections...I didn't see any like this, so I thought I'd share...my only keychain. I bought it to use but it's too nice! -Frank
  8. 1 point
    Well, I might as well jump in here with the "Baby".
  9. 1 point
    Allen, You will have to pull the speedo and take off the back "can". Inside you will most likely find a set of "fins" that rotate around a drum which is magnetic. The fins are attached to the cable drive and are probably being "return to zero" limited by dirt or grease from the cable. Not a big deal to clean this out. HOWEVER, do not spray this area with brake cleaner, as it will take the numbers off the odometer drums. Ask me how I know. This opinion comes from me doing this fix on my '40 Buick. Mine was grease that was pumped up the cable right into the speedo. Too much grease in the cable assembly by the previous owner. Mike in Colorado
  10. 1 point
    I wouldn't buy anything from someone as dirty as that....specially since I know how dirty your mind is!
  11. 1 point
    All, I can add to the excellent advice here is to hasten slowly and DON'T pull it apart, that has been death to so many old cars, as Unimogjohn says. My advice? Dont paint it. Neutralise the door rust, fix the floor, replace the rear bar with one that isnt rechromed so it looks consistent with the rest of the car. Clean it up, put some tyres on it and get it driving nicely. Then, stand back and think about where to next. At least this way, if you change your mind, you will have something to sell and you won't have over capitalised, much..... John
  12. 1 point
    Yea the guy that runs that site, posted a link in a thread about paint color. It IS a very cool site though!
  13. 1 point
    I'd say a car isn't a race car until it races.
  14. 1 point
    BillHymer with your permission I want to crash the party & "like" or join your group not to hang out there, I am clearly too old - mainly help promote it by inviting some Under 40s I know who are pretty involved in prewar cars that are not active on this forum. They are out there, one is an aspiring collector car dealer around 29 or so, one is building a T Speedster to museum standards and Chris Summers, who frequents this forum and probably second only to Randy Emma in terms of Duesenberg knowledge also comes to mind, He is on FB a lot more than here these days. Those guys are all in the 28 - 32 age range. I hope it goes somewhere. There are active pages dedicated to a lot of obscure things (Tokheim gas pumps come to mind) that get a fair amount of play, so you might be surprised with your results. Anyway enjoy and good luck with it.
  15. 1 point
    So -- I think I've got it. Checked the power from the HVAC Programmer, had proper volts. (Thanks Ronnie) Finally, I found a used fan power module, plugged it in and voila, the fan works. Now I have to check and clean the evaporator while in the area. (Thanks Barney)
  16. 1 point
    There is nothing wrong with the model, and if you have a nice one that is great. The issue I have with this particular car is that it needs 25k worth of work to be a 6k car.
  17. 1 point
    Yes, cars of today are supposed to be safer due to materials, design, and as you said, scientifically tested crumple zones. And as you have also seen, cars of years past were heavier with thicker gauge steel but that created a problem. They were so stiff (pre 1966 safety standards beginning) that people were injured more by the hard G-force impacts of non giving hard steel body and chassis designs because you were thrown harder upon impact than if the car crumpled and absorbed the impact. I am sure they were probably safer in slow speed crashes or non violent rollovers but more high speed impacts were an issue. Also, they knew that side impacts normally happen above the separate chassis side frame rails anyway - which was an issue and brought up during the whole 1957-1964 GM tubular center-x (no side rails) design frame debacle in which GM was sued for. But at the time, GM was not held liable and was prior to the new 1966 laws. This chassis design carried over until 1970 on Buick Riviera but they felt more confident since the body was built in unibody style attached to the separate frame so in essence had double protection but was very stiff.
  18. 1 point
    I always think of them as Lincoln Continentals, Just for fun I did a Bing search for pictures under, 63 Lincoln, and 63 Continental, and came up with hundreds of images under wither name. Then for reference I put in 49 Riviera, and found far more pictures of 49 Buicks... Not quite sure how to read those results, but it was a fun search. I did note, I prefer the original thin stripe white walls vs the fat whites.
  19. 1 point
    David, I knew would chime in. Yes it was the highlight of my trip to Australia along with the ride in the Maxwell! Tom Muth
  20. 1 point
    Rod: Thanks for the photo. Such a shame It looks like it was a model 54 Sport Roadster. If my son (who drives flat bed out to the region) could only drag it home for me!
  21. 1 point
    I love mine, and it gets as much attention at shows than all the "trailer queens".
  22. 1 point
    Judging in AACA is all visual, so there's a deduction for a battery that doesn't appear to be period correct. An Optima battery under the hood of an otherwise beautiful car will draw a deduction. Battery doesn't have to be old, it just has to be correct to the car. This is fairly generic on most cars, but very specific on some cars, such as early Thunderbirds which had a very distinct shaped battery.....
  23. 1 point
    I do know that the spider gear Thrust bushings are brass on my 32 Buick differential. I use the GL4 in there also. Why risk it, and it's easier to have just one lubricant when practical. Bob Engle
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Not fair! I was distracted by a shiny object.
  26. 1 point
    Tried to put water in the engine , but the frezze plugs was to rusty , so i had to take away the intake and exhaust I have hard to find new fryzze plugs , eny suggestions where to get new ??? ust
  27. 1 point
    Not under 40 but have the same interest..
  28. 1 point
    …. thanks Jon for your professional input. Think I will now replate my linkages arms and such in nickel. Van Nuys Plating in Van Nuys, CA has done good by me. They have silver cadmium plated ( The real Deal ) all my bolts and transmission linkages so far and did good. Gold cadmium plated ( The real deal as well ) my Moraine MC canister and did good on that as well. This time I will speak to them about nickel plating my linkages, shafts and such as I know they still do Hexavalent chrome plating ( The real deal - not dyed Trivalent ). Another route one can take is to go the Caswell Inc. route. They have a nickel plating kit/setup you can purchase if you have a voltage/amp source to hook it up to or buy one of theirs.
  29. 1 point
    So i so I took the first step and started a Facebook page...doubt it will go anywhere. What would be fun it to physically get together with people our age and promote the hobby and Facebook does not do that but it may help people connect. I called the Facebook page Generation X-Y-Z Prewar Motorcar Club. X-Y-Z is basically anyone born after 1966.
  30. 1 point
    Agreed - Kudos to Matt for all his fine work. ... and for those who wondered about my reference to Sarah, the lovely Med-Student and daughter of my next door neighbors Diane and Jim, it was my honor to drive Sarah and her dad to the church, and to drive the delightful young couple to their reception at The Pavilion of the the Two Sisters in New Orleans' City Park
  31. 1 point
    Jason, Welcome to the group. This group is very helpful, but we are more interested in keeping cars as they came from the factory so the original intent can be passed on to future generations of what the cars were like when they left the factory. If I can ask, why are you looking to change the front brakes from drum to disc? These cars very capable of stopping well when the brake system is maintained to factory specifications. You might want to check one of the other forums that hot rod cars if you really want to do this change, but most of us here do not think this would be necessary. Good luck on you decision.
  32. 1 point
    and he still claims to this day that he wasn't scared €€<<>^*~~}~,^*++>. But his white as a sheet face at the time didn't lie. That was on the way to Pal Buicks to pick up my first '54 Muscle, I may try a search for that. yep you'll always be the Buick Rascal Kid Thriller D
  33. 1 point
    Here,s a 1925 master 128" w/b on Sacramento CL $500
  34. 1 point
    I may be older than I was a few days ago, but I remain a relative youngster in these parts so I ought to be able to remember something. Who can forget Jordan's reaction to you waking him up to a tractor being towed....
  35. 1 point
    I use GL1 140 CLASSIC GREEN GEAR OIL in the summer for the 38 Special transmission. I change it to GL1 90 CLASSIC GREEN GEAR OIL in the winter. The label states "free of EP additives for vintage applications". I don't use this in the rear axle, only the transmission. It is made by MILLER OILS and I buy it and get it delivered from AMAZON.COM. I use STA LUBE GEAR OIL 85 90 GL4 HYPOID in the rear axle.
  36. 1 point
    Try http://www.hometownbuick.com/1957-buick-convertible-top/
  37. 1 point
    Well I'm back. (sort of....) Had a meeting with the City official today over the yard conditions thing and while he wasn't impressed with my solution to put up a 10X20 portable garage in the back yard (where I would have rather put it beside the garage if things were NOT so wet) it did serve the purpose to hid the things my neighbour wasn't happy to see beside the garage so he's gone and hope the H*## to never see him again! Now will be calling the Building Standards Department Monday over the water run off on my property! This is going to affect three of them but I guess "what is good for the Goose, is good for the Gander!" Still can't see getting to the Special for awhile as during this past month have been putting in a new bathroom in the basement which has to be completed before we rip apart the main bathroom all before September 17th. And.... Had to get after the Insurance Company because I have a new neighbour who did not like the blocks left in the ditch even though I had taken all the fence boards and fence panels out myself..... Took three guys most of the day Monday to bust them up, heave up on the lawn and then wheel them into a bin placed in the driveway. (No access for a backhoe) All this while my Spring work has been coming in when the weather is good. They say there is no rest for the wicked, so thinking I must be REALLY wicked!
  38. 1 point
    It would seem that Reo may have changed individual features one by one. Looking at a few pics on the net I see a progression from 1930 to 1933 of the radiator, hood louvres, windshield style and door hinges with a mix of each on different cars. From this I guess that Bing's car is a late 1932/early 1933 as the door hinges at the rear look to be a 1933 feature. From this one - everything is that same as Bing's except the radiator. I also see that comment with the '33 pic that there were several variants.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    It can't possibly be cheap enough. I sold this one for less than $10,000. Low mileage, great colors, rust free, running and driving, felt like a new car. If you think you can elevate that one to this level for less than $10,000 then maybe you should buy it. But if you can't (and that color sure won't help at resale time, so figure maybe $7500), then let it go. They can't all be saved and grabbing cars up because they're cheap just wastes resources that you could dedicate to finishing other cars. My father never learned that lesson. At one point we had 12 or 13 mediocre cars instead of one really great one. The crappy ones broke his spirit, gave him constant fits, required time and resources that he didn't have, and never gave him more than a fleeting moment of pleasure. Or he could have invested that money in something significant and high-quality and enjoyed the hobby. Stop grabbing driftwood and put your resources towards something worthy. A battered old 4-door sedan doesn't need to be rescued or preserved for the future when someone else might possibly get around to restoring it.
  41. 1 point
    …. to remove cleaner and varnish residue, take kerosene and pour it into a small spray bottle. Apply the kerosene to the exterior and then let it set for about a minute then wipe completely with a clean cotton cloth. This will remove all the solute particles of the green yellow varnish which is old fuel residues from the surface. Repeat as necessary until clean. Jon: Good info. So for example, I have a Carter 2507 and have always wondered - It appears the choke arm linkages, throttle arms, throttle body shafts etc were nickel plated as were the external accelerator linkage arms coming up & from the fire wall and to the carb itself. The main body components on this Carter were either white cad or yellow cad ? Are these correct assumptions ?
  42. 1 point
    Here are a few pictures of today's work. The side mouldings have a quarter inch black plastic bumper strip, but on the left side it has been pulled off completely at some point in the past. A large retailer in Canada, Canadian Tire sells a lot of vinyl pinstrips of various sizes and colours, and I found some that was the exact width, and in a black that closely matched the gloss of the original. It looks almost identical to the original, though of course it is not as thick. A bit hard to photograph well, but I hope that you can see the progress well enough. Keith
  43. 1 point
    At least I "correctly" painted the pumpkin this time
  44. 1 point
    That's a hazardous waste site. Be sure to call the EPA before your proceed.
  45. 1 point
    Our all-original 1937 Roadmaster 80C was purchased by the City of New York to serve as a Parade Car for Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia - "Little Flower". Fiorello retains all of the original interior, convertible top, drive-line, and paint (with touch-up to a few battle-scars received during parade service). The Roadmaster transported Sports and Political Dignitaries such as President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Vice-President Harry S. Truman, General Dwight David Eisenhower, General Douglas MacArthur, British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill, and many others as it served the city through the mid-1950s or later, perhaps into the early 1960s. The big Buick Roadmaster convertible sedan (Phaeton in Buick Parlance) is believed to have spent many years with Case Western Reserve University's Crawford Museum of Aviation and Auto History before being auctioned int the property of Cedric Blazer and Dr. Michael Werckle of Rockford/Caledonia, Illinois. After many years of bargaining back and forth, and following Mr Blazer's passing, Dr. Werckle assisted me in negotiating with Blazer's estate, and after a half-year, the agreement was reached for me to acquire the then 7,xxx mile piece of history. Thorough preparation, careful maintenance, and the ultimate discovery of how to correct a long-standing brake master cylinder mis-assembly have enabled our family, friends, and several local brides to bask in the glow of this "Moment in Time" - Fiorello, the 1937 Roadmaster Phaeton. 1937 Buick with marty and Nathan.shs
  46. 1 point
    Well...... here goes.... These are some photo's of my '41 Buick, which I have owned since 1963. I won't go into the long story as to how I came to own the car, but it was my daily driver in my senior year at collage at GMI in Flint. My wife and I dated in the Buick before we got married after my graduation. After we were married and I bought a new 1965 Chevrolet SS, I thought about selling the Buick, but I just liked it too much to let it go (I never was very good at selling cars), so it saw occasional summer time use. I was already a member of the BCCA when it folded in 1965, and finally decided to join that new club, the BCA (member 2098). When I heard about the BCA National Meet being planned in Flint for 1971, I wrote Terry Dunham to see if my car was OK to enter the show. He wrote back and said "it's a Buick, of course you should bring it". It was after that show that a group of us formed the Buicktown Chapter of the BCA. The family and I enjoyed many tours and events with our chapter over the years. The 2003 100th Anniversary meet that our Chapter hosted was a high point. By 2009 the '41 was getting a little tired looking, so being a part of the family for so long, we decided it was time to freshen her up. John Williams agreed to take on the job, so off it went. Three years later (and many trips to John's place to lend a helping hand) she came back home. John had named her "Domino", so I guess the name stuck (at least in John's mind). We always called her "The 41". Well, that's the story in a nut shell. More Buicks have been added over the years, but the '41 is still the original family member. The first photo shows the '41 at a park in 1963, when my wife and I were still dating. The second photo show the '41 at the first National BCA meet in Flint, 1971. The third photo shows the '41 at the 2003 National Meet, parked with the B-42 display. Maybe some of you remember it. The fourth photo show the '41 at the same show, parked next to the Buick built Hellcat tank, after the show was over. One of my favorite shots. The fifth photo show the '41 at John's shop, bare naked! the sixth, seventh, and eighth photo's show the '41 after it's "freshening up". Hope I didn't bore everyone. If not, I'll add the story of my 1938 convertible coupe later. 3 - 2003 National Buick Meet, Flint, MI.bmp
  47. 1 point
    Love this thread which I just found today. so here is a photo of my 39 sedan. It was sold new in New Zealand in December 1939. It is a RHD NZ assembled Buick with a Fisher body not the Holden body seen on many Australian Buicks. It a Special but was sold with the Century external and internal trim. (hence the outside trim on the windows and the centre rear seat arm rest) It has been in my wife's family since 1972 and was our wedding car in 1994 and also for her sister in 1995. I purchased the car of the family estate in 2002 and have over the last 4 years done an extensive frame on restoration that started out small but ended up huge. I have the original ownership documents for the sedan that records all of the owners and when and where it was purchased . And Stuart's 34 Roadster has moved home to the east Coast of Australia and lives here with me and I have it out driving most weekends Cheers Andrew
  48. 1 point
    Here are a couple of my 1912 Model 35. Gil Fitzhugh the Elder
  49. 1 point
    I found the dam key! I guess it's time to make some copies, roll it out of the garage, and fire it up!
  50. 1 point

    From the album: Member Galleries

    The Elite model convertible Coupe, one of 3 offered in the Flying Cloud range that year.