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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/17/2016 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Cool build, and what's even cooler, is that some members are enjoying a MODIFIED Buick build, instead of picking on the fact it won't be ORIGINAL. Dale in Indy
  2. 3 points
    For sale. For $400 you can convert torque tube '56 Buick to open driveline. 1961 Invicta 3rd member will bolt right up to your rear housing and the stock '56 axles will slide right in as the splines are the same. Chevy C-10 trailing arms U-bolt to the axle housing and connect to your cross member that can be modified from the included C-10 crossmember. The only change for the axle housing is moving brake lines away from U-bolts. So, you get a 61 Invicta pumpkin, C-10 trailing arms and cross member, U-bolts and misc nuts and bolts. George Haskett Union, WA 360-432-3462
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    Had the annual West Australian Buick Club Autumn run this past weekend. Just over 800kms ( 500 miles ) over the 3 day run. Took the club to some of my old stamping grounds, visited a farmer who restores veteran motorcycles and has turned his hand to casting small parts in a home foundry. Also visited the farm of an 88 year old local in Wubin who has been collecting " treasure " his entire life. This link will take you to some photos of the run http://www.westernbuicks.org/Events/Autumn%20Run%20Dandaragan%202016/Events%20Dandaragan%20Run%202016.htm
  5. 2 points
    Well this concludes the build thread for now. Still lots of work to be done! Paint, upholstery, final assembly and then test drive and etc. The goal is to have the car ready to go so that it can make the drive to Allentown. It's going to be tight but we are all working to meet that goal. If it makes it's debut their, then I will continue this thread or start another one to show the final project. Hope to see you in Allentown!!! Thanks to all that have followed and commented on this thread to date. I has been a long project but I believe the final product will be quite pleasing to the eye and a real enjoyment to drive. Thanks again, especially to Verne and Shane for their interest and excitement to build this project. A job well done!!! Gary
  6. 2 points
    More console build. All of the wiring and controls run through the console and fitted so that they can be unplugged and the console removed for any repair/diagnostic work required.
  7. 1 point
    These are not inexpensive diecasts, but are white metal or resin-cast models brimming with detail. There is a difference, in price, in quality, and how one who collects them bristles when the casual onlooker calls them "toys". American Excellence released this '57 Caballero a few years ago in resin, and here it's mated with Brooklin's 1961 Airstream Bambi. It's a lilliputian twin to Centurion's BoS 1/18th model he so capably pictured recently. From what many collectors consider the "Golden Era" of white metal models, Conquest Models' 1957 Roadmaster 75 Riviera Sedan was produced in very limited runs, in the low-hundreds. Although the headlight bezels should be painted body color, it's a fine example of a vintage 1990 white metal model that has stood the test of time. Its travel mate here is Brooklin's 1958 Shasta AirFlyte, with wings! If you're wondering how to capture models in "realistic" surroundings like this, it's no secret, anyone can do it. Shoot a background (for depth of field), put it against your "roadway" (which can be as simple as grey matte board, in this case, a bit more elaborate), shoot at about four feet at F32, focusing about a third of the way into the subject, and you're done. No Photoshop or post-production, although I do use a program to sharpen and contrast the image. I shoot these in my carport for the natural, diffused light, with only a reflector made of aluminum foil, spray-mounted on foamcore. This is USA Models' 1958 Fleetwood 75 Limousine, detailed with Bare Metal Foil to resemble its much more expensive Motor City brethren, again from the early-'90's. The driveway is just grey matte board. While modern resin models offer much more detail, the longevity of their finely wrought and delicate, photo-etched parts remains to be seen. The shoot for the Caballero above was the first time it was off its plinth and out of the box since its purchase about three years ago. As a generalist in both models and 1:1 cars, I count on one hand the number of my Buick 1/43rd scale models. I'm confident that Centurion will hop on board and post some of his vast collection of postwar 1/43rd Buicks. His 1/43rd scale dealership is a sight to behold! Still playing with cars after all these years, TG
  8. 1 point
    Here is my '26 Whippet. Body has all new wood. Just finished painting, and now it needs an interior and top.
  9. 1 point
    In January, I posted a "parts wanted" message on one of the marque-specific boards in this forum. A "David Kaplan" replied by PM in March, giving me an e-mail and phone number, and said he "for sure" can get the parts I needed. I responded by e-mail with a detailed list, and got a prompt reply from him telling me he was parting out a car just like mine, and could provide everything I needed. All I had to do was send a money gram for $750 and my ship-to address to him. He even enclosed a number of photos of the car he was parting out. The catch is, the photos he sent are of MY CAR! They were the photos that the seller had posted to this forum last year when I bought the car. Fortunately, no money has changed hands. I thought I would share with others on this forum; just in case. Andrew
  10. 1 point
    As high schoolers we ALWAYS had a work bench on the back seat, a (BLANKET). hehe Mothers called other mothers, said, don't let your daughter ride with that wild driver Dale Smith, one mother said, it's to late,nthey are out on a date now.....I never hurt anyone. For sure! Dale in Indy
  11. 1 point
    When I was having the same issues with my 25-25s original radiator I had done all the above and still the overheating but no seepage or leaking. The core had a small section removed and several soldered patches done by the previous owner. My radiator man said it was clean and flowed well after he went thru it. Same problem after I reinstalled.it. A local Mason-Dixon club friend sold me a 1925 standard radiator that looked to be in good shape. While I was doing a pre-cleaning prior to sending it out to get done at the radiator shop I put too much pressure with a flusher unit. When my radiator man checked it out he said it leaked like "someone took a shotgun to it". Expensive mistake! So I had that radiator re-cored with a HD modern core at over $900. No overheating ever since. The non honeycomb look does not bother me for my driver. Now if I can only get it running happily again!! Original radiator when I got the car in 2011 Re-cored and repainted shell, 2014 Jan 2016, with my powder coated bumpers seep marks and missing section in lower left. and re-silvered reflectors.
  12. 1 point
    I am very jealous of Bob, DB-wise, and I don't care who knows it! I tried to console myself by thinking about how hard it is going to be for him to move all those non-running DB cars, but that didn't help. I met him once, quite a long time ago, just after I had bought my '22 touring car and got it running. It ran so well that I drove it about 40 miles over to Bob's house to show it to him, and in the process the original top destroyed itself and had to be taped back together in order to drive it home again. He sure is a nice guy, and very helpful.
  13. 1 point
    Seems like a reasonable price for the low miles and condition of this. Someone changed the paint color. https://salina.craigslist.org/cto/5481447821.html
  14. 1 point
    Looked at Youtube.Man, that is nasty stuff. Looks like it turns into Vasoline. I can't believe one of the guys likes the stuff!
  15. 1 point
    My MACS CFC-12 certification for refrigerant recycling and service is dated May 1, 1991. And I have two patents for refrigerant reclamation and recycling equipment. I wouldn't use a pump in stop leak. It is best to leak test and repair leaks. If you have a fitted joint that needs a better seal than you can get with an O-ring or standard joining methods, Leak Lock, http://www.highsidechem.com/pdfs/leaklock.pdf is the only product I have used and like. In the same vein, I still have a 30# jug of R-12 for my personal use and have no intention of converting any older systems to 134A. Of course, I drive on biased tires, too. So I might have no credibility. Bernie
  16. 1 point
    Keep a pan under the filter, keep it vertical but it's just a messy job especially if you are not using a lift.
  17. 1 point
    Love your choice of seats. I had planned on using same in my 54 Special custom that never got off the ground. After seeing all the work (and beautifully executed at that) it took to accomplish, it's probably a good thing I never got that far. That console is aewsome. And I hear you about the pop up center being elusive. And pricey when found
  18. 1 point
    Did you compare your old and new parts to make sure they are the same? You never know what's in the box these days.
  19. 1 point
    The amber globes are usually damaged by using the wrong bulb. When I got my car the globe was pushed out of the holder as shown in the photos I posted previously. If the amber globe is broken it is best to get a used one from a used parts vendor but if you can't, a replacement can be made by carefully cutting the base off an amber turn signal bulb as shown in this tutorial. Turn Signal Light Amber Globe Repair
  20. 1 point
    Coolant flushed, new points, plugs and oil. Still needs a carb cleaning but starts and runs 100% better. When changing the oil filter element, I couldn't find the old gasket so I assumed it either fell in the catch pan or there wasn't one there. I even scraped around with a screwdriver. First test run and oil was POURING on the ground. It was still up in there, hiding, not letting the new one seal. So, any tips/tricks to not making a gigantic mess when changing that filter? My 61 f100 had the modern filter adapter installed before me. This is my first rodeo.
  21. 1 point
    For some reason this thing doesn't like me. I still am not sure how I got here. Now that I am I want to say, this is a great shot. The location is wonderful. Lighting is excellent. Subject is fabulous. I must also say though, when I was a kid, these Buick's scared me after dark. That grill looks like part of one mean face to a small child.
  22. 1 point
    I think he put one too many zeros on the price.
  23. 1 point
    Mr. Earl, here's another one for you. Not mine, just saw it on CL. https://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/5537713550.html I'm selling this 1954 Buick Special for a friend. The car is in good condition for it's age. It is equipped with a 150 horsepower V8 with an automatic transmission. Here's what I know about the car. The car needs a paint job and some work on the chrome, but it's very solid and the interior is in excellent condition with no tears in the upholstery. This car runs and drives nice. The odometer reads 16,024 miles. The engine was rebuilt about 6,000 miles ago. The gas tank was removed and sent off to be reconditioned and apoxy sealed several years ago. This is only the second owner of the car, and he's had the car for about 16 years. If you're looking for an old car like this to fix up and have fun cruising around in, then this is the one I would buy. I've seen ones like this one out there in a whole lot worse condition and for a lot more money. The owner isn't able to restore it and he doesn't want to see the car go to waste. Please serious calls or texts only. No Trades. Cash only! If interested call or text. Price: $7,000.00 In St. Stephen, SC. Don
  24. 1 point
    A car such as this is stunning either way. Do what you like, after all, it's your car.
  25. 1 point
    Nothing in particular, just looking for someones experience. I do have a friend with a 92 Saturn.
  26. 1 point
    I'll toss in a few more photos that might be useful. They show how to remove/replace the amber glove in the turn signal.
  27. 1 point
    Wayne, I have the right to remain silent....
  28. 1 point
    I don't, but you might call the DMV Public Inquiries Unit at 916-657-6560 and ask them. My last contact was about five years ago and not helpful--thought I was talking to regular field office staff. Previous to that, they had old-car-friendly staff. The three discussions at DMV field offices I mentioned above were all related to no penalties for not non-opping a car over 25 model years old, but of course, one must still complete a *certification* that the car was not driven, moved or parked on public streets and highways during that period. It's in the CVC 5000 series, 50-(something early on in the series). This was the major breakthrough by Jack Passey (I sure miss him) and the Association of California Car Clubs.
  29. 1 point
    Above and beyond solivng your drain problem, consider adding a "Master Electrical Cutoff", so when you leave your car, eith at night, or at the local Cruise-In/Parking Lot, Motel while on tour, it prevents discharge, battery drain, and helps minimize the opportunity for theft. Better to get a high-capacity switch for a shut-off, rather than the "quickie' type with a plastic wheel that attaches to the battery terminal, as they have less electrical resistance. The cheapies will sometimes decrease voltage/amperage to you starting circuits, but anything is better than nothing in most cases.
  30. 1 point
    McMaster-Carr..............Source of all things..................Bob
  31. 1 point
    McMaster-Carr sells woven ceramic cloth tubing in various diameters. Works perfectly and looks original.
  32. 1 point
    Wishful thinking, me thinks. Ben
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Allan, I would suggest you consider posting in a couple different forums about your Roadmaster. This General Forum is for General discussion about all things Buick, in general. The Post War Forum http://forums.aaca.org/forum/57-buick-post-war/ is more for posting technical questions and advice about post war Buicks like yours. The Me and My Buick Forum http://forums.aaca.org/forum/58-me-and-my-buick/ is for posting about you and your Buick, it's history, how you found it, shows you attend, general work that you have done to it etc. The Buick Buy-Sell http://forums.aaca.org/forum/12-buick-buysell/ is for selling and in your case it looks like seeking and asking for needed parts. And if you haven't already introduced yourself.... http://forums.aaca.org/topic/157115-please-introduce-yourself/?page=43 Look forward to following your progress with this beautiful Roadmaster. Only one problem I am seeing with it...it is not a '54.
  35. 1 point
    I talked to a lady from the AACA and was told you can only show it in one and that it can not be moved for 10 years. This is why I am having such a hard time picking one. The first owner purchased the car to race. It was run at Mason Dixon Drag-O-Way (has the stickers under the hood insulation) still has the flat tow shackles under the front bumper. The interior does not have a crease, crack or wrinkle in it. I was looking for a survivor class because it is a true time-capsuled car. Was stored in a garage under cover for almost 27 years. Thanks for your help.
  36. 1 point
    After a short vacation, the work resumed. When the model was at the Baselworld, I began with the door's trim in front of the arm rest. To those unfamiliar with the Mark II, I'm including a picture from the real thing. On the left of the second picture are both inserts for the ashtrays to be used by the rear passengers. The ash trays inserts are soldered to the frame; the screws at their bottom will be used to attach the elements to the door trim. At this scale clips are not very useful! The window switches will be added later on the parts. The next job? it will be the LH quarter window.
  37. 1 point
    You should add 1968 and 1969.. the last year of the big blocks.. The 68 - 69 cars were not tuned down until the 70's..
  38. 1 point
    Mostly have cars in the 20's & 30's but really like my 1983 Imperial. I enjoy driving / riding in vehicles throughout all the decades.
  39. 1 point
    Had a chance to ride shotgun yesterday. Taught a couple quick learners from CLC to drive a crashbox Caddy ! We all enjoyed it very much. Without any planning , we ended up here by chance. The car ran GREAT ! I didn't think to bring my camera , so these are wide angle shots from my iPad. Scenery appeared much closer , and of course more impressive in real life. Red Rock will see this Cad many more times , as the host hotel is nearby. I wish each and every one of you were here with me , as I am always thinking about you. Pretty busy with more activities than I really have time for. I am sometimes still answering questions until 2:00 AM. I love it , of course ! - Carl
  40. 1 point
    Looks to be pretty darn original....
  41. 1 point
    I just want to thank everyone for the support provided to our family and business. It is difficult to lose an icon of the industry like my dad. He loved this hobby from the time he judged hi wheelers in the 50's to this day. Up until the end he got to do what was most important to him and that was going to shows and talking with his buddies. He will be missed but the legacy will continue. Thanks to all. Dave, Jr.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    I remember growing up that every year the cars were better/faster and a car was considered worn out at 100k. Every kid knew every car by the taillights. Was a time when a three year old car was "old" and a Chevvy convertible with AM radio, 283 2bbl powerglide & power steering but manual brakes was obviously a rental. Of course I also remember seeing rusty new cars on dealer's lots. BTW I won a lot of autocrosses (and surprised a few Z-28s) with my '70 GS. Bit lighter than a 73.
  44. 1 point
    Dad just towed this one home. '66 C10 short/fleet, big window, with a 283, 3 speed, both Custom Group option packages, and gauges instead of warning lights. It's pretty straight and original but has some rust.
  45. 1 point
    found this 20 yrs ago but couldnt buy it found out i could buy it this past oct of 2015 been working on it since may be in over my head trying to id this car its an american fiat tipo 55 1916 17 or 18 dont know for sure yet finding out there is no positive way to know the year been very interesting learning about how they used to build cars
  46. 1 point
    The package tray is an issue of it's own. The original '57 tray was pretty much flat and fit the contour of the rear glass in the car. With the installation of the 1st gen Riviera seats the package tray now needed to have a radius to fit down into the seats to the speaker grille and the outer ends of the seat back. The original Riviera trays were cardboard and we were not sure they would fit/fill the whole surface of the '57. Therefore it required fabbing one out of metal and creating the correct curvature to fit the new opening. I am especially thrilled as to how it turned out! Also had to make some provisions for speakers in the tray as I will certainly require some cool 50's tunes while cruising!! "Ya' Ain't Nothin' But A Hound Dawg!!!! LOL
  47. 1 point
    So on to the rear seats. Again from a first generation Riviera but mods were necessary. Fillers had to be fabbed to fill the gaps between the seat back and the interior quarter, upper corners of the back rest were modified to blend in with other contour's, panel between trunk and rear compartment was filled. Also incorporated was an again elusive center "pop up" center arm rest.
  48. 1 point
    Probably a dealer's license. Who is to say what "collectable" is when it comes to sales? I lived in southern California for 17 years....most of that time around old cars and never heard of that in the California DMV.
  49. 1 point
    Here are two of my 1958 Buick Special convertible that are my favourites (so far...) This was in Port Huron, Michigan right at the mouth of the St Clair River where Lake Huron empties into. Blue Skies, Blue Water, Top down, does it get any better than this? Port Huron, Michigan again (same day). This was their Tourist Information Office.
  50. 1 point
    George, visit www.73-77olds.com . People there can probably help you with parts for this under-appreciated Oldsmobile. Your parts will be expensive to ship to Poland due to weight, but the door structures/windows and bumpers are common to all 1973-77 Olds Cutlass four-door models. Salon Sedan was a magnificent automobile, just American drivers couldn't understand what it (and sibling Pontiac GrandAM) was trying to accomplish. 40 years ahead of its time, and was frequently compared to similar Mercedes sedans in contemporary road tests...