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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/22/2016 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I am on the hunt for a friend that needs a big buick straight eight 320 for his 1949 roadmaster . The condition will reflect the price ,running complete or non running rebuild able or even short block etc. . I am in lower Michigan around the palace of auburn hills , can travel to get though . Thank you and I am just trying to help out a older gentle man that is having a hard time finding a 320ci engine to use .
  2. 1 point
    You can add pictures to a gallery by: clicking the "Create" drop-down at the top of the forum page and then selecting "Gallery Image" To see and manage your current pictures try: Click User Name-->Profile-->See My Activity-->Images (I tried to capture the flow in the video below)
  3. 1 point
    John: Below is a picture of the engine on my '55 Century. You can see the oil filler is in the valley: And for further reading, see this thread I posted a couple of years ago:
  4. 1 point
    Yes Urshimato, it me, turning the back to the camera! About value: this is a very subjective topic. I don't record the hours spent on that model, just the years! Once is sure: the material cost is negligible compared to the time.
  5. 1 point
    Thanks everyone for the kind replies. I hope my rant didn't come off as pouting and once I restored the pictures my blood pressure dropped to normal levels. I'm probably too full of myself to stop this tread anyway. On another note, I realized the other day that the restoration is taking a new turn. For the last three years it's been all about disassembly, removing rust, replacing old bearings, seals, broken bolts, engine parts and other assorted chores. Now I'm putting things back together and it's a whole new ball games. First, you now have to be careful of all those nicely painted parts - you don't want to scratch the paint or mess something up. Even bigger changes are now happening. I just got the brake system working. It was one thing to make new brake lines and install new shoes and re-sleeved cylinders, but suddenly I had to make things work. They just couldn't look good, they had to perform. I'm using Dot 5 silicon brake fluid, so not tightening down the bleeder screws sufficiently and watching brake fluid spurt out on my backing plates and axle didn't instantly remove my nice paint - as it did on my 48 Plymouth restorion a few years ago when I used Dot 3. So you do learn from past disasters. But having that brake pedal riding up high and tight with no leaks anywhere in the system was a great relief and a real feeling of accomplishment. As I was flaring my new brake lines, I wondered if I'd done it correctly and hoped for the best - and it did work. Now I realize I will have similar experiences when I start the motor and actually drive the car for the first time. Will the motor start, did my transmission rebuild actually fix things, will the clutch perform correctly? It should be an interesting Spring.
  6. 1 point
    Annie, I met the young man who was there with your Suburban - and am very impressed with both ! Sorry I didn't get to meet you, but did note that your '89 Suburban was properly recognized. Congratulations ! Marty
  7. 1 point
    I took a few photos of cars for sale at the meet so I have downloaded a few. This was my first Chickashe Pre-war and was surprised on the volume of Model T 'stuff'. Must be a great place to find anything you need for a 'T'. Lots of Model A stuff also. Nice restorable Lincoln Zephyr V12, nice running light blue 1911 Hudson, and a pair of 1932 Buick headlights and parking lights for only $1000, I shoulda picked them up for spares Chuck
  8. 1 point
    Are you up to 30,000 models yet? http://www.freep.com/story/money/nation-now/2016/03/21/minnesota-house-of-cars/82075114/
  9. 1 point
    I'm sure we can help build a list, but we will need a few pictures first. Can you take the following pictures: The right side firewall, inside the engine compartment. The cowl, inside the right front fender area behind the passengers side front wheel well The bottom of the dashboard, right beneath the radio speaker area. The back side of the thermostat housing ( this angle requires you to stand by the right front fender, and shoot the picture down towards the engine radiator. The last picture is hard to explain but let me try. The best view would be if you removed the glove box first, because I would like to see what parts are already present inside the car. If you can remove the glove box then I'd like a picture of the cowl area right behind the glove box. take one picture through the glove box door, take another other one looking up into that area from the floor boards.
  10. 1 point
    Can't get the tears out of my eyes What a waste of a beautiful 1928 DB Senior Coupe When I see what some folks hack up to make a rod and with what I had to attempt to restore back to original my brain (What there is of it) goes numb That body is so straight and appears to be mostly rust free Pity I am in Australia or it would be in my shed Oh and he can keep the Ford parts
  11. 1 point
    I discovered a way to restore photos that the new forum format has cleverly removed. All my photos are URLs from Photobucket, done that way so you don't have to click on them to enlarge them when you're reading the thread. In this thread, all my photos from page one to page 26 were gone, replaced by the type spelling out the URL. What I did was go into each post that had missing photos and hit hit EDIT. button When the ready to edit post came up, I highlighted the first URL, copied it, then deleted it, then pasted it back in. In other words, I highlighted it, hit Ctrl C, then hit Delete, then hit Ctrl V. I then saved the post and all photos in the post magically reappeared. You only have to do this to one URL no matter how many photos are in the post. All will reappear after you save the edit - don't ask me why, I'm no computer genius. I only found this out when I tested one photo and found all had come back. You also don't have to search Photobucket or your URL source for each photo, you just paste the copied URL back in. I hope this makes sense, but it worked for me. Give it a try. You still have to address each separate post, and you can't fix posts other folks have made to your thread, but it cleaned up most of the problem for me. It took about 90 minutes to do 25 pages.
  12. 1 point
    Not on road yet, but is out of the paint shop recently. Still in need of the long, quarter panel stainless moldings.
  13. 1 point
    Thanks guys. I did find the shop manual for download on http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/ after seeing a reference to it elsewhere on this forum. It covers 1948-49. Says the brakes are 1.75" so that's good since thats what I ordered. I thought about keeping the upholstery and just sewing in new panels where it was split, but the fabric is too weak, at least where I checked on the front seat. It has several splits along the front edge, so I'm pretty sure it won't stand up to being sat on. I may be able to get away with just redoing the front seat. I'll take it on a case-by-case basis. I do want to drive and enjoy this car, not just trailer and show it. Steve, the radio knobs are probably wrong. I found a different set in the glovebox that look like the right ones. The radio may have been changed out at some point.