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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/2015 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Always start with replacing thrust pad, and engine and trans mounts. You can adjust the linkage but not really fixing things, so long as the engine and trans are moving around too much in relation to the frame.
  2. 3 points
    On the other side of the coin with the crash in scrap metal prices, hopefully the scrappers that have been stealing everything in sight have stopped stripping buildings of all metal of value.
  3. 2 points
    Hey People! Just wanted to post a video of the Split Six running, being that I really couldn't have done it without the help I received from this group! So much thanks!!! All the help was very much appreciated!...And I'm sure more will be required!... Russell.
  4. 2 points
    If you haven't visited Buick.com lately, you probably haven't seen the new official logo. Check it out (to the left) or visit http://media.buick.com/media/us/en/buick/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2015/nov/laas/buick/1118-logo.html for the formal announcement. Nice to see that the color is back!
  5. 2 points
    The 2017 newly designed LaCross needs to hit the showroom floor. Catch one summer of 2016.
  6. 1 point
    1956 Ford Fairlane Sunliner Convertible. Simply put, this car is stunning in all regards. It is loaded with factory options and accessories including air conditioning, power steering, power brakes, power seats, continental kit, full length bumper guards, driving lights, twin spot lights, etc, etc, etc. The car was given a frame off, professional restoration about 15 years ago. Since the time of the restoration, it has been regularly, but carefully driven. It has always been regularly maintained and stored in a museum-like setting. Today, this car is like new, inside and out. The paint is virtually flawless, the interior is like new, the top is gorgeous, the chrome and stainless are pristine. The top and interior were professionally replaced at the time of restoration and today remain like new. The engine bay and chassis were also professionally restored and today are clean and extremely well detailed. Underneath, the floor pans, body mounts, sills and rockers show no signs of repair. The body panels are laser straight front to rear, top to bottom and the body lines are crisp and clear. The doors hang properly and fit the body with even gaps and margins, as do the hood and the rear deck lid. The trunk is clean and properly detailed as well. Mechanically, this car runs and drives as good as it looks. The mileage shown is about 9,000 which is likely the mileage since the restoration was completed, so you know this is a well sorted car that is ready for more driving and enjoyment. The 312 cid Thunderbird V-8 engine runs great and propels the car down the road smoothly. This car is ready to be competitively shown with confidence and at the same time is a reliable, long distance driver. I am offering this car for far less than the cost of restoration at 69,500.00. I doubt you will find a nicer one. The VIN number is P6SC166763 and the car is located in Ann Arbor, MI. Please call 734-730-4274 to or email directly at 734-730-4274 to schedule a viewing. Thank you very much.
  7. 1 point
    Now it runs, drives, stops, and leaks water! It is basically pouring water out of the back of the water pump at the shaft. I wasn't able to turn the nut around the shaft either way. The nut on the front had a slow drip, and was able to be tightened carefully, so it's better now. Still it ran for more than half an hour. No other leaks. I'm pretty happy!
  8. 1 point
    Evenin folks, I took the crank and flywheel assembly over to the big press, firstly we put the flywheel on the press with the crank hanging below, we used a dial indicator positioned on the centre boss to check for deflection when under load, as soon as the press ram touched the crank end the dial moved, when the lever was pumped a little the dial really moved round, something was wrong, we then made up some steel blocks to locate the load right on the back of the bearing rather than the flywheel, this time the ram pushed down and the indicator hardly moved and the crank steadily came out, when we looked at the rear of the flywheel we could see the reason for the deflection, there was a crack running around the centre boss ! this looked very old and was dirty and oily, definitely nothing recent and maybe something to do with the vibration. The rear bearing carrier came off without any trouble and the axial play in the single row self aligning bearing was evident, the front single row standard type bearing also came off easily with a lot less play than the rear, the rear carrier has a very nice multi plate oil seal arrangement next to the bearing, it is amazing to see how much play there is in the bearing's after feeling very little when the engine was fully assembled. The crank looks good, I will now mount it on centre's and check to see if it is bent in any way, The double keyway's are a very nice touch, I will now draw up the flywheel and get a new one machined from steel which will be a lot stronger. Andy
  9. 1 point
    There's an automatic transmission shop about 2 hours from me, north side of Ft. Worth, Texas, that will rebuild a Dynaflow for under $1000 if you take the transmission out of the car and put it back in yourself. You cannot be in a hurry, though, because all of their drive-in traffic gets done first (small shop, only 1 or 2 bays for a car, and people who need their car or truck to get to work daily take precedence). But they did good work for me, and they really know how to seal it up well to prevent leaks. But it would cost you a few hundred $$ to ship the transmission to me or to them from Virginia, but that pales in comparision to the cost and fabrication work you would need if you tried to eliminate the torque tube, etc. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Leonard, TX
  10. 1 point
    Don't worry, if it is a little dry you can buff it out, and buff it out, and buff and buff... And runs are just added protection at no extra cost!
  11. 1 point
    The image that avgwarhawk has posted above is NOT the upcoming LaCrosse. Look here for some quality photos of the 2017 LaCrosse: http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f70/gmi-design-analysis-2017-buick-lacrosse-231737/
  12. 1 point
    You can be assured that when these cars were built, they didnt run hot when driven at reasonable speeds (whatever that might be) in any temperature environment. Buick would not have built that same engine from '36 to '53 if it had a problem with running hot - they would have been out of business.
  13. 1 point
    Will, I moved your post to the Post War forum here where it will likely get more views for your question related to finding a shop for the dynaflow repairs. I left a redirect link in the Performance/Modified so viewers there will see it also. Hopefully you can find a good transmission shop to fix what you have as changing trannys can be a real hair puller.
  14. 1 point
    Sound too good to be true? My local KIJIJI (Nova Scotia, Canada) site currently has this likely rare car for sale for $800 Canadian (about $600US), not a lot left I gather as the photo shows, but I don't imagine there are many of these still being unearthed. Likely someone out there who would love a donor car.
  15. 1 point
    Uh , ummmm , ah , yup , Ted. Guys and gals , do yourselves a great big favor and Google up : Selection of the Right Motor oil for Flat Tappet Engines. Study it up. 33 pages of pertainant data distilled from tech journals that you would have am extremely difficult job understanding (unless you are a petroleum engineer). A genius of a petroleum products rep by the name of Richard Widman (goes by the handle Richard 1 on the forums) has written this phenomenally informative piece of work. Take your time. Read all of it. You will understand most , or all of it. By the time you are through , you will understand more about oil than almost anybody in the world who has not read it. Airy Cat , I am an old man who has been putting synthetic oil in all my cars for at least 35 years. Put it in old 100,000 mi. engines , and those worn in for 5000 miles on conventional oil , and everything in between. Still driving a '76 Cadillac which got so hot due to a partially plugged radiator on a super hot day , that I cracked the exhaust manifolds which glowed red. The high flashpoint of synthetic saved that 500. 10s of thousands of miles later , it still runs great , although with new exhaust manifolds ! All engines have hotspots ............ you know what ? I could go on and on , but please let Widman take over. If you really want to run the best oil , you might as well know why. We are a bunch of car guys and gals , aren't we ? Is there any pro-ignorance argument out there ? Study it up , I say. Oh yeah ,use all synthetic lubricants. I had to pick up synthetic oil passing through Billings Montana many years ago. The feed store was the only place I could find that carried it back then. Got to talking with a group of farmers there. They told me that switching to synthetic grease for their agricultural machinery resulted in wear becoming insignificant. Glad you asked. - Carl
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Jim Hughes, Jim's Dynaflow Service, Perrysburg, OH near Toledo. 419-874-2393. Rebuilds all Dynaflows. Highly recommended.
  18. 1 point
    So what's the guy in the green uniform staring at with a big ol' grin?
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Ok, she is by a Metropolitain but there is a great Buick behind her....
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Evenin, Another week has gone by and more Chalmers engine parts are on the shelf, I made up a small puller and removed the starting handle dog and cam drive gear, I modified an old 2 leg puller to fit the flywheel, I then loaded up the puller, I wound it a little more and waited, then waited a bit more, The flywheel didn't move at all, I decided to leave the puller on while working on cleaning up the crankcase and removing the black paint, After a couple of day's the flywheel was still in place, I didn't really want to heat it so another way had to be found, I removed the puller legs from the holes in the flywheel, I rotated the flywheel until I found the bearing carrier retaining bolt's, these were removed and I made up a simple puller to pull the whole flywheel and crank assembly from the crankcase, this worked so easily, The 2 crank bearing's sit in steel carrier's, the front carrier was able to move slightly to take up expansion, the rear was fixed by the retaining bolts I removed previously, now I can turn the bearing's by hand it is obvious they have to be replaced, I don't think they are original but are still very old and they are metric ! was this to take out wear with re-machining the carrier's or was this normal in the 1910's ? I now have the crank and flywheel assembly ready to take over to a friend's workshop that has a larger press than mine., I found the number 4 exhaust lifter had a small problem, the lifter is made in 2 pieces, the top adjuster block and the lower hollow cam follower, they are fixed together with a dowel pin, on this lifter the pin had become worn and had allowed a small amount of play "up and down", I have some steel rod of the same diameter and will make and fit another pin. Andy
  23. 1 point
    Check out www.appraiserstv.com and you will see some of the cars in the show. There is a little bit of everything from a Mustang, race car, 41 Cadillac, Mohs SafariKar, several great collections..like I said an eclectic mix which also includes a modified Merc in the first episode which is not most of our cup of tea but the producer of the show had to do some things to make the network happy. While I am far from an expert in the world of TV I have certainly learned a lot over the last few years on what it takes to get a show aired and the difficulties of producing a series. After all, it is TV and is designed for entertainment. Then you have got to find funding for the shows which is no small issue. From what we have seen the show gets better each week so hopefully you give it a chance. I am not much of a "Lambo" fan and the second episode highlights one but it was pretty humorous to see the reaction of the member of the film crew who got a ride in the car. I do not have the time this morning to say all that needs to be said about the importance of our hobby reaching out to new "customers". We all know about the graying of the hobby, AACA's membership is up again this year and that is good but not nearly what it should be for the future. Our discussions with politicians over the years that support our cause (there is a nice size caucus of car nuts who serve in state and national capacities) usually end up with comments about the size of our hobby and our need to be proactive and in the spotlight. TV can help us. Chasing Classic Cars is doing an entire show on December 23rd about Hershey! That is great exposure. Wayne Carini is a life member in AACA. While the Appraisers is not an AACA show due to the participants we have a way to at least let the public know who we are and hopefully if the show gets renewed we can spread the word more each year.
  24. 1 point
    It runs! The body is off so that I can repair the floor rails. I rebuilt the oil pump and plumbed a filter in on the pressure side of the pump and it still has 4psi! Now I need to repair the radiator so that I can run it for more than just a few minutes at a time.
  25. 1 point
    I use John Deere Blitz Black for those parts. Holds up well on tractors....outside, too.
  26. 1 point
    Evenin all, I was able to do a lot more to the Chalmers engine today, all the ancillaries were stripped off along with the gearbox, everything came off without any trouble, I had a close look at the crankshaft nut at the flywheel, there is a locking pin that engages in machined slots in the flange of the nut, this pin has a smaller diameter that locks the nut, a larger diameter stops the pin from coming through, then I realised that the pin was spring loaded into position and it still worked perfectly after 102 years ! next job was to remove the block, the burn on the piston crowns was good, everything was free and clean, then I noticed an odd wear pattern around the gudgeon pin circlips, each piston on both sides had wear around the aluminium bore especially in the up and down directions, I then noticed that all the gudgeon pin location bolts were missing their split pins, these were used as a safety device by Chalmers to stop the bolts coming undone and the pin floating into the bore, four new split pins were fitted when the pistons were replaced must have fractured and moved around and steadily worn the aluminium until they were so small the material was washed away, this is the first problem I have found and after a lot of inspection of the pistons and bores I think I have got away with it ! The conrod bearings are free and without play, the crank bearings feel good with no noticeable play, The bores are damage free, just a visible mark in the gudgeon pin area along with the honing hatch pattern, the flash in this photo makes the valve and head look silver, it actually has a good burn. More work to be done. Andy
  27. 1 point
    Looks good and you will have lots of fun with this one. Dont forget to replace the fuel lines from the tank. Looks like you have all you Motor and A/C parts in place. Always a good thing. Have fun with this project.
  28. 1 point
    Hi Mozzie, Congratulations on your purchase. And you've posted to the right place. * Electric seat - Its best to remove the seat mechanism and clean it as bench work. If you knock the dust and hard old grease out of the working parts and lubricate it with fresh grease it will probably work like new. * Lights not working - that's common. There are several threads on this board that discuss the door jamb switches. You might start there. After that is just checking the fuses and testing the wires (and ground quality) with a 12 volt tester. * Fuel pump - replace * Brakes - rebuild to original spec
  29. 1 point
    I do think that in the 1950's, there was a more widely recognized sense of morality and family values. And large families were popular in the 1950's too-- maybe that's why station wagons soared in popularity from utilitarian vehicles to everyday family haulers.