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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/04/2015 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    The oldest car I had owned up until June was a 1951 Cadillac...and I really thought that was old. I have always admired Cadillacs of the late 20s and early 30s. I stumbled upon this car on ebay one fateful day in May. I really didnt need another project but I just couldnt get the car out of my mind once I saw it.... I bought the car and then told my wife later that day....yikes. Sometimes it is indeed easier to say I'm sorry then to ask permission. The car was shipped and arrived to a very excited family ready to bring her back to life... Boy it was really dirty but underneath the dirt was a pretty amazing car. Alot of paperwork outlining the history was also with the car. Nearly 100% complete. The only thing missing is the distributor assembly ( a bit of a problem) and 3 window cranks.
  2. 2 points
    Since you seem to have already made most of your wood parts, this information is probably old news, but I found that using a pattern cutting router bit (one with a bearing on the shaft) made life a lot simpler when it came to duplicating wood parts for my Dodge. This method presupposes the old wood piece is still somewhat intact so it can be "traced" by the router. I often had to glue up broken pieces and even used filler in some occasions to get the old part back into shape. This turned out to be a lot easier than trying to cut complex shapes with a bandsaw. This method creates an exact duplicate of the original part. I used it to remake the bottom front seat frame on my car. Before and after pics. This was my first attempt at this kind of woodworking. I had to buy a router and a router table and learn to use them before I got started. To put it bluntly, if a klutz like me can do it, almost anyone can.
  3. 2 points
    Thought I would offer up some comments gained over the past two months chasing two perplexing issues. I can't believe it took this much time to figure this out, and got all sorts of help (some good, others not) as to what the issues were. As with so many things, turned out to be some rather simple fixes, but what a challenge in figuring this out. Guess I need to get another 10,000 hours in rebuilding this old stuff. This is all for a 1937 Dodge MC pickup that is undergoing a full frame off restoration. Literally, every nut, bolt and screw removed, and all parts restored. 1. Burn points - once I got it started, kept burning out the points. Found an old condenser had been used in the engine rebuild, and replaced that. Cleaned points, but they kept burning to the point that the truck would stall out and not start. Installed a new coil. After speaking with a retired auto-electric guy in the area, he had me check voltage, and wouldn't you know that the rebuilt generator was putting out over 10V. Adjusted the brush and got the output to 7.5, which is within spec. Voltage at the distributor is about 4V. Seems like a fairly straightforward fix, but you have no idea how long I chased this. Took me some time to figure out that the points were the reason the engine was stopping and not start. 2. Fuel gauge - man, this one was a killer. Had a NOS gauge that was blowing fuses. Sent it to Bob's Speedometer and they told me it was not good. Bought another one from them. When power turned on, gauge spiked to full. Didn't know if it was a bad gauge or other wiring issue. Sent the gauge back (twice) and they confirmed that it was OK. Checked all grounds and they were OK (tank). Finally dropped the tank this past weekend and pulled the sending unit (a repo). Using my meter, confirmed that it was working (range is from 0 to 90 ohms). Pulled the gauge out of the truck, and using some leads, connected the gauge and sending unit as they would be installed (needed to ground the gauge mounting flange). Attached it to the battery and the needle spiked. Happened to move the float, and noticed that the gauge did work, but was reading full with the float in the low position and empty with the float in the high position (backwards). But this was great progress as I could actually see the needle move. Apparently, this is what I was seeing with it installed. With just a few gallons of fuel, the float was in the full down position, and the gauge read full. Switched the wires, but did not change. Spoke to Bob's and they mentioned that the gauges are designed to read 0 to 90 or 90 to 0 ohms. My repo sending unit was configured to read full when the shortest distance is achieved in the rheostat. Bob's suggested I try and switch the position of the float, but after some experimentation, discovered that it only fit in one direction. So, I took the plastic rheostat off the sending unit, rotated it 180 degrees and remounted it using a few small brass screws. Now it works exactly as it should. WHAT A BEAR. PROBABLY HAVE OVER 40 HOURS CHASING THESE ISSUES DOWN, AND HOPE THIS NOTE MAY HELP SOMEONE ELSE OUT THERE. While I had my test system in place for the gauge, I tested the original gauge that was all crusty, and it worked fine. Can't thanks Bruce and Matt at Bob's enough for troubleshooting this with me, and their patience. In retrospect, I would never install another fuel sending unit/gauge without first testing them for operation. Guess we ought to keep in mind that repo parts are not necessarily identical to the originals, and we just need to confirm operation, etc. Attached some pictures to show parts.
  4. 1 point
    Got the maroon '64 LeSabre out today, gave it a wash, fixed the starter, put on new valve cover gaskets, and had it pose for these photos under the circa 1930s gas station that I am restoring. Car has the 300 cu. in. V8, 4-barrel, new paint, power windows, seat, steering & brakes, and working factory A/C (and is for sale). As the sun began to set, the lighting was perfect today. Almost 52 years old and still looking good. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Leonard, TX
  5. 1 point
    I agree completely. My 56' was a lot rougher and required a tranny, brakes, tires, etc, etc. regrets....NO! It's a Buickful Buick
  6. 1 point
    Are you by chance documenting your work with dimensions so that future restorers can benefit from your awesome work? Maybe you should make two of each piece and sell the set to recoup some of your money on the project.
  7. 1 point
    After 24 years of sitting, the engine is most likely stuck. You can sometimes get them unstuck by pouring a mixture of acetone and transmission fluid into the spark plug holes and letting it soak for a few days. Also, try removing the rocker arm assemblies. At worst, you may have to remove the cylinder heads. The body on this car looks to be very good, as does the glass and chrome trim. I think it is worth $2500 and if you spend another $2500 on it to get it running and the front seat reupholstered, I think you could sell it and get all of your money back, and possibly a little more. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Leonard, TX
  8. 1 point
    In 1957 you did not have someone apologizing or offending some one or some group in the news every day.
  9. 1 point
    Looks solid. Does the engine turn at all?
  10. 1 point
    This is the rear window/windshield frame. It was one of the first sections I tackled because it looked fairly easy to achieve. Included are photos of the frame in situ. Hopefully, the dimensions are symmetrical, as I found what I believed to be the center of the bottom piece and mirrored it. I later determined that the routing on some pieces is not completely necessary, but I tried to stay as true to original as possible, since I had no idea what I was doing. As you will see in later posts, some of my routing leaves a hell of a lot to be desired, and I may even go back and remake some pieces someday... or leave that to my GGGrandchildren when they finish this thing. Anyway, here it is.
  11. 1 point
    Found and purchased a '55 DeSoto 291 yesterday. Thanks readers /posters.
  12. 1 point
    Of course I think it would only be better with black sidewalls, but that's a Limited opinion...
  13. 1 point
    Regarding our Super, back in 1976 or so, with one son and one on the way, my father said , if you're gonna have that thing, put $1,500 into it and drive it ( for a daily car). I told him he just didn't understand! He's also the one who, in earlier years, made me give away the 60 MGA, which I got for free and which ran for my friend for a decade after electrical repairs, and also made me sell the 57 Special convertible for $100, which had 55K, and I got for $30.00. He also objected to the Ford Econoline van I picked up for free and finally gave up when I brought home the $200 64 Corvair convertible, that my brother and nephew still have. Dads! You just gotta love em!!!
  14. 1 point
    G-day mate, my attempt at ozzy humor i have the 57 buick roadmaster 75 that used to have air con, i have found the vents and dash grills but not the actual compressor & engine brackets ? also im missing the little adjusting slide knob for the centre air con vent, also the 3 dash crash pad lights, also the drivers side upper wish bone ( bent mine) any news would be great thank you markjeynes.tne@bigpond.com
  15. 1 point
    We told you that you were not getting old ! Great work as usual. Wayne
  16. 1 point
    There is a pair on ebay. Not in the best condition.
  17. 1 point
    Had an interesting conversation with my son this evening, seems while he was at my Dad's last week they talked cars. Dad doesn't want me to know about it but has told my son that he is willing to fund the rebuild of my Limited motor! Suddenly I have to clean up the garage at home and get the motor on a clean bench so some progress can be made (without me knowing?). OK, slow down, priorities are in play but..... what an offer! You have to appreciate youth and excitement! Doesn't mean things will stop on the Special but... would be a dream if the Limited made it to the wedding too???
  18. 1 point
    db17, Not to high jack your thread but more to encourage you, this 1928 Whippet Cabriolet took my dad 28 years to complete but having two other antique cars, stuck with it! It was not complete at all in this picture, parts came from the East Coast to the West Coast and as far south as Florida so..... hang in there! Some day she will be finished!
  19. 1 point
    Xeon you would be wise to check with your insurance co before you buy a car. My guess would be, rates should not be too bad for an older, six cylinder or small V8. Get a big V8, like over 350 cu in, or a car with a "fast name" like GTO, Road Runner, Mustang etc and rates can be much higher. But, they change the rules all the time so it pays to ask.
  20. 1 point
    Hi: If you are looking for the interior door moulding that goes around the window opening, I have one. It actually was painted gray when I had my parts painted. Will need to see what side it's for. As for the regulator tape, I just went through this and ended up buying a Chevy unit to get the tape. Tried to have them made, but easier said then done. There is a guy in the Phila area that is making a repo of this, and he has the tapes available, but they look like they are bluish spring steel. Also, try Dodge Central in MI as they are making regulators for the 1939-47 trucks. Drop me a note regarding the window moulding if this is of any help. Vic
  21. 1 point
    Forget HP it is not important except for top speed. Torque and more importantly the torque curve is what is important. That said there have been great improvements in recent years with variable valve timing. My 59 Jag with a 3.4L/210 cid 6 had a torque peak of 240 lb-ft at 4800 rpm, rpm, '12 Jeep 3.6 260 lb-ft at 4800 rpm. Howerver the Jag was rated at 250 hp and the Jeep, 290hp the main difference being the Jeeps torque curve is almost flat (within 90% of peak) from 1800 to 6400 rpm so the area under the torque curve is far greater for the Jeep than the Jag. That area is what determines accelleration. (of course the Jeep weighs about 50% more than the Jag so hardly faster). BTW back in the day the adage was that for the first 20 feet off the line, nothing could beat a VW. Except a man on foot. ps speaking of flow, it is a lot easier to make a 6 breathe well than an 8. IMNSHO.
  22. 1 point
    I got mine framed and its sitting on my back office desk. I'm in sales, so it's nice having something other than business to talk about. Set the frame so I can keep updating. 5 points isn't exactly impressive =-D
  23. 1 point
    Glad you chimed in Ed. I prefer to keep things simple plus we don't have a lot of donor cars downunder. The rear disc brake kit will have a built-in drum brake for the emergency brake and the existing cable will attach. 15" rims won't be an issue either because the twin-spot billet caliper is a smaller.
  24. 1 point
    if your vin number on the driver's door post has a number 6 after the first letter, then your's is an original 239 six cylinder custom catalina, even on the custom catalina, the straight eight was a $115.00 option.
  25. 1 point
    We just finished repairs on an antique car that had been involved in a minor accident. As often happens with really old cars the paint had been touched up before to the point where the front and rear of the car were two slightly different shades of the same color, requiring us to buy two pints of slightly different colors and blending front to back. The result is unnoticeable but we ended up repainting about 25% of the car.
  26. 1 point
    Take one off and go to most any parts store.. They will either have them by part number or you can match it up to what they have on display. I have had very good luck buying them at Pep-Boys for around $20.00 each. The price may have gone up some since I bought my last pair, even so, they should still be reasonably priced there.
  27. 1 point
    A place to show and tell about your Buick Garage, (Buick Room or hangout) and discuss topics such as garage layout, work benches, tools, lifts, etc. Share your ideas for fabricated special tools, how you heat and cool and what kind of lights you use etc etc. Even brag about your latest Craigs list good deals. Also show and tell about Buick memorabilia, collectibles, signs etc. You may want to consider using an image sharing site in order to post pictures full size for viewing or just use the Attach Files format here. Really doesn't matter, we just like pictures...lots of pictures!!!! Enjoy!!
  28. 1 point
    That's promising. I'll see if I can get the radiator out today. I haven't looked at it too closely yet, but I imagine it involves removing the hood cowling and the radiator shroud, right?
  29. 1 point
    If you are talking one of the 90ish ones, you can get hood struts at about any auto parts store for it.
  30. 1 point
    CASCO, Hill's, Prestige Thunderbird, National Parts Depot and a number of others will have what you need. It is good to support the T-Bird parts vendors as they maintain one of the best parts networks of any car from the 1950's. Regards, Lew
  31. 1 point
    Please don't use gasoline on a brush pile. Too volatile.
  32. 1 point
    Some are just naturals. Bernie
  33. 1 point
    Is it flooding or starving? Is the idle too slow? Flooding will give black smoke. In my Dodge Brothers it results from a speck of tank dirt under the float needle so it doesn't close. Is your electric pump (why?) putting the right pressure on the float valve at the carb? Starving: does it run better if you pull the choke slightly? If so, look for vacuum leak and think about carb float level. Does it have vacuum wipers? Check as above and look at the wiper system as well. If you have had the manifolds separated you might not have the mating face on the head on the same plane for both manifolds. If it has a vacuum advance system look at that too. I ran my Dodge Brothers on lead substitute for about a thousand miles. Then it wouldn't run until I replaced the spark plugs. No more lead for me. We assume you have the timing and points gap right. The new distributor cap: does it have aluminium contacts inside and crimped aluminium holding the carbon in the centre? If so, look out for the carbon brush to fall out. I have had that on two such new caps on my Dodge Brothers. Look for caps with copper coloured crimps and contacts.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Terry, I'd bet you a steak dinner that such an article would be printed in the Bugle. It sounds like you have a wealth of knowledge that would not only benefit us pre-war Buick folk as well as shed some light on a century old feat of engineering. I for one look forward to reading that piece.
  36. 1 point
    Another idea : While your car is laid up , it might be a good time to send the Sylphon thermostatic bellows controlling the radiator shutters out for renovation. It may or may not be working right now , but they don't last forever. Hopefully Jim Otto in Nashville , Tn. is still doing this work. He is a retired Sylphon engineer who still does some work for them. Return time is generally within 2 weeks. Also , use synthetic grease. Many years ago , when synthetic oil was not as prevalent as now , I found the oil I needed at the feed store in Billings , Mt. Talking lubricants with the gents there , they told me that they had switched to synthetic grease in all their farm machinery. Wear on lubricated surfaces was reduced to negligible , if at all. Ceased to be an issue. Use synthetic everywhere. - Carl
  37. 1 point
    O.K. , your distributor luck may be about to take a favorable turn. Last week I placed a couple of calls for you. Wayne Elsworth apparently is in touch with you , but our discussion still needs more info. Perhaps a temporary plug in. For example , we guys with '26 amd '27 Cads can just drop in a '37-'39 Cad-LaSalle distributor , which in some ways runs better than the dual point original. My other call was to Bruce at Classic and Exotic in Michigan. I have had them do a comprehensive rebuild on my original distributor. I could use every superlative to compliment their service. They are the finest shop I have ever found. We humble Cadillac owners are fortunate in that such greats as Duesenberg and Stutz also used these Delco-Remy distributors . Their shop , consequently , can tend to our mere mortal , non-billionaire needs as a collateral service. Bruce just returned my call. They have a '29 Cad in the shop right now. That can serve as a reference for exactly what you need. With all the parts they have on hand and reproduce to higher than original specs , they can probably make you one ! It would help if someone can get you any rebuildable core (Wayne , perhaps ?) even if not quite the part number of your car. The differences can be minor , and a different part Classic and Exotic manufactures would make it identical. Cap , rotor , points are scarce. Are you a member of Cadillac LaSalle club ? If so , someone may help. Join. I have a possible source for you when I get back to Seattle next month. Bruce awaits your call. Direct line is 248-362-2097. My name is Carl Fielding for reference. They also rebuilt my cantankerous Cadillac Johnson carb. Everything they do is superb work with a very minimal turnaround time. In my world , their prices are very reasonable. Compared to other solutions I was considering before finding them , they would be a bargain at twice the price. Literally. I hope we and our Cadillacs will be in good enough health to meet at the CLC Grand National in 'Vegas next April. Good luck , and let us know how you make out with all aspects of your impressive old Cadillac. - Carl