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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/17/2015 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I've used DOT 5 in all my old cars with both drum and discs for years. I have had ZERO problems, corrosion or leaking pitted wheel cylinders with it. It's been in my Vette for 20 years. When I used DOT 3 in the Vette the brake caliper bores corroded and leaked necessitating sleeving with SS. Of the 6 vehicles I've restored they had all used DOT 3. EVERY wheel and master cylinder on all of them was rusty and pitted to some degree. I can look into my master cylinders using DOT 5 and the fluid is still clear and sludge free after years and when I do need to perform brake work I don't have to worry about getting DOT 3 paint remover on finished surfaces.................Bob
  2. 2 points
    That's my customer John's car. He bought it from my customer Eddie from my area. It was also at the 2012 BCA Nationals in Charlotte where it received a senior gold award. The car resides in Louisiana, not Houston however. It's a beautiful car. We had the privilege of storing the car at our facility for a few weeks until transport could be arranged. Here is a picture the morning it went on the truck. Such a beautiful, all original car. Even down to the tires (which were not even cracked or flat spotted I might add).
  3. 2 points
    UPDATE: I put the fuel pump on with the sealed bowl and it fired right up, and has fired right up ever since. Guess that bad cork gasket on the fuel bowl was preventing it from filling enough to push up to the carb.
  4. 2 points
    Well, I had the '56 Roadmaster out tonight to a local cruise night, and it was packed with cars and spectators. I will post some pictures later on, but one interesting thing happened on the way home. We stopped at Dairy Queen for small ice cream treat, and as we were finishing a woman and her daughter came up and asked us if that was my car. I said yes, and then they asked if she could take a picture of it, of course I said yes. The daughter would 16 or so, and was studing auto in school with intent of making that her career choice. Anyway, since they were fans of my car, I followed them out and let her sit in, and her Mom took her picture sitting behind the wheel. She was really hopping with excitment by now, then she asked to see the engine, and I started it as well. It was quite a memorable experience for her and her Mom. Its' neat to share the car with someone who realy likes it, and of course, helps to keep the interest amougst younger people. Keith
  5. 2 points
    Spend a few hours today having a go at fitting the instrument panel. When I started I thought I may have had to have done this before the choke and throttle cable went in but getting it on its side and between the cables and steering column I was able to gently push it in place and it fitted first go. Tightened the screws and removed the low adhesion tape and another job done ! Finally something that didn't have to be modified, bent, scraped or drilled out.
  6. 1 point
    Buick Owners of Maryland (BOOM) is having their annual All Buick Show on Sunday September 27, located at Boyle Buick, 3015 Emmorton Rd, Abingdon, MD. Registration is 9:30 to 11:30 am. Peer Judging is noon to 2:00 pm and Awards will be given at 2:30 pm. This is a great show that the BOOM club has been doing for many years and usually has close to 100 Buicks attending. So bring out that Buick and let a lot of Buick enthusiast get a look at it. If you can't bring a Buick come and look at Buicks from prewar to the newer Grand Nationals! For more information about the Buick Owners of Maryland see our website @ www.bcaboom.org
  7. 1 point
    1930 Chevy Rumble Seat Roadster in need of restoration. Runs and I have driven it around the block. $8500.00 For photos https://plus.google.com/105158126450231489012/posts/LPGBoSAzqSv?cfem=1&pid=6194854845681741858&oid=105158126450231489012 Located in North Central Mass 508-932-920six
  8. 1 point
    Not mine, but is a very, very rare 1951 model 48; not a 48-D, but a plain 48 with the small one-piece back glass, old-fashioned two-piece divided windshield, and almost no side chrome. Someone spotted one of these kind of rough and unrestored, for sale in an Iowa field about a year ago on this forum, but here is one that appears to be in very nice shape. So rare that its production figures are not listed in The Buick: A Complete History by Dunham & Gustin. These are almost never seen anywhere. Only has 23 hours to go on the Ebay listing, so it may disappear soon. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Other-Eight-Special-Coupe-/141771325515?forcerrptr=true&hash=item21023ac04b&item=141771325515
  9. 1 point
    As Greg showed in the '24 Buick pic, it appears to be a threaded insert. I have been spraying it with PB Blaster everytime I go past it. I do not have a good strap wrench, so I will pick one up and give it a try this weekend. I want to get it off because I was able to locate a knob with the "reverse H" pattern engraved on the top. They are probably somewhat rare and it will remind me not to try to start out in 3rd gear!
  10. 1 point
    More than once we have been offered $ by folks wanting to use our Jiffy John, usually by older men. If the supplicant appears to be truly needy we'll let them use it and have never accepted any money. Your prostate can be your worst enemy.
  11. 1 point
    It's not the bent pinch weld that's the problem, it's the seam inboard of it where the original floor was cut out and a new one installed. Originally the floor was PART of the pinch weld, it was formed to mate up with the rocker panel outer skin and pinch welded together to create the unit-body. The right way to replace the floor would have been to dissect the pinch weld, remove the old floor intact as much as possible, then reinstall the new floor by welding it back to the pinch welded area. In this car's case, they used a cut-off wheel to remove the floors as close to the outer edges as possible, then likely stitch-welded the new floors in, which gives you that visible seam. They obviously did the welding from inside the car, which is the right way to do that, so that [hopefully] the car was sitting on its suspension so that the new floors would be properly aligned and wouldn't torque the body unnaturally. Hence the rather ragged seam you see. It could have been dressed better so that it would virtually disappear, but I don't think it's necessarily a bad repair, just not done to the standards of a car priced at book value +20%. As I said, I do not believe that this is a bad repair and I don't think it affects the car's structure or operation. If this were a $25,000 car, it would be easy enough to overlook. But at $38,000, es no bueno.
  12. 1 point
    I don't think it's a problem at all in terms of the car's driveability or safety. There are thousands of Mustangs running around with similar repairs (or worse--much worse). It's not "correct" and it's was obviously done by someone who either didn't want to do the bigger job of doing it right, or just didn't know any better. I don't think you'll have issues if you drive it and use it as intended. But the sticking point is still the price. I get annoyed by guys coming into my showroom and looking at a car. If they spot a floor patch on an otherwise very nice car, they immediately cross it off their list and walk away. Patches and rust repair aren't necessarily bad, they don't make for a bad car, and they don't change anything except that you know there used to be rust there and someone fixed it at some point. For some guys, apparently that's something that will keep them up at night and it's an unforgivable sin on a car. My personal opinion on a repair like this, especially on a hobby car that will not see A) daily driving, winter weather, or C) high speeds/cornering, is that they're a non-issue in terms of how the car works. SOMEONE certainly owns all those patched cars, it's just when one shows up in my showroom that everyone becomes a nit-picker who wants virgin sheetmetal. But at that price... Well, it's probably not crazy to expect a car that has never been rusty or repaired. So no real effect on how the car works or looks, but with that kind of price tag, well, it really shouldn't be that way.
  13. 1 point
    I'm glad you went back to the original colors, Greg: Nice looking Firebird! And wouldn't the original owners be pleased if they could see their car the way it left the showroom! I know what you mean about color. A red convertible, since there are so many of them, is great-looking but almost trite. For the last 3 antique cars I bought-- coral-and-pink 1957 Cadillac Fleetwood; wisteria 1969 Cadillac Eldorado with white vinyl top and plum interior; and grass-green 1979 Buick Electra coupe with mint green vinyl top and green velour interior--the unusual factory-original colors were what attracted me in the first place. But I didn't know that others felt the same way.
  14. 1 point
    Can't believe you are having a pissing contest over the price of a port-o-john. This thread is full of crap.
  15. 1 point
    We would never again buy a rebuilt booster. We recently went thru 3 supposedly rebuilt boosters before we got a good one for a '54 Caddy. The customer insisted on buying the rebuilt units because they were cheaper but any savings were eaten up by the labor to change out the booster 3 times.
  16. 1 point
    Great looking car ... I am with Ian ... 34`s look good from any angle .. Keep on posting pics
  17. 1 point
    I'd be careful eliminating the rivets and just using the lugs to hold the drum to the hub. I worked on a '49 where the po had done that, on that case the rivets kept the drum concentric to the hub and the holes in the drum for the lugs to pass through were a larger diameter than the lugs. There was no way to center the drum and it caused the brake pedal to pulsate during braking.
  18. 1 point
    That seems to be a pretty common thing on Reattas. On my 90 convertible I had this same problem. I took a utlity knife and carefully cut out the black "paper" and cleaned it up and it looks better as just shiney metal.
  19. 1 point
    On my '33 Plymouth the drums are riveted to the hubs. I think they did that into the 40s so I am guessing it is true of your '39. A fairly standard way to remove rivets is to cut the head off one side then drive out the body. A hammer and chisel is one way. Grinding the head off is another. If you are careful to start a drill the size or slightly smaller than the body in the center of the head that would be another. I didn't have one when I did the little riveted repair work to my frame but I'd guess one of those oscillating saws with an appropriate blade would work too. Some people don't bother riveting the drums back on, just using the studs or lug bolts to clamp the drum between the wheel and the hub. Plymouth in that era used bolts which would make mounting tires a real bear, so one could get studs pressed into the hubs. If you want to duplicate the original setup, then you will be looking into how to rivet and that takes some simple but specialized tooling. I've only done a few rivets myself so I am no expert but it should be within the realm of things a restorer can pick up. Easier than gas welding for me at least.
  20. 1 point
    Doesn't matter what angle the 34 photos are taken at still look good. What happened to the blue........41 is it ? Looks like someone clipped the rear of the car.
  21. 1 point
    Kind of makes me glad I lowered the compression in my cars, including the Vette, when I rebuilt them. I can run 87 octane all day with no complaints from any of my engines and truth be known the lowered performance isn't noticed since I drive my old iron like there's an egg between my foot and the gas pedal................Bob
  22. 1 point
    Nobody said you had to read the rant. A bad day is one thing. We are pushing 2 months of bad days in sales. Eventually you get a bit bummed out and wonder what your next step is. Especially when you have curtailed your entire business and inventory around it. (I also have no new prospects on inventory purchases for the winter) Compound to that a house and a shop that won't sell (even though we have tried different approaches to selling them and even dropped the price to what will soon be tempting for a flipper to pick them up, and my wife having been snookered into a 1 year contract with an unscrupulous realtor that hasn't been able to sell it either, with a whole new winter just around the bend will leave one a bit tense when the boss man comes along with new improvements that always seem to be more problematic than beneficial and cost the seller in the end. Please don't tell me to suck it up until you have sold 4000 or more items a year and done it primarily by yourself without employees. Then you will see where one comes from. Hobby selling is one thing. Making it your primary income and having weeks of bad sales with items that used to sell for 30.00-100.00 now struggling to sell for 9.99 or less really gets one to ranting with just cause.
  23. 1 point
    The strap idea looks good, here is a thought that I cannot say is based on experience with a knob, but may help. I wonder if a small amount of heat might help? I am thinking maybe from a hair dryer, which I have had success with in safely removing things that are held in place with adhesive. Not so sure that is your issue but assuming either bakalite or such against metal, heating the different surfaces might help separate them?
  24. 1 point
    Hi Dwight, Try pouring boiling water onto the knob and then use a strap wrench while the knob is hot. If you think the knob is rusted to the lever, then turn the shifter upside down in a container of water and leave it to soak for a couple of weeks and just keep trying. I had a 29 Chev with a very rusty cylinder head, soaked it in water for 10 days and got ALL the valves out. I learned this from an Australian OLD CARS magazine, the water caused the rust and it will penetrate and free the rust better than any WD40. Regards Viv
  25. 1 point
    I bubble balance and triangulate the weight placement on my old cars. I can't remember a bad one. Watch out for that technology that might outsmart the user. If you are working on an old car sometimes old technologies may be appropriate. Kind of reminds me of how I watched TV with and antenna for 50 years and never had the screen freeze or skip and jerk until I got the high definition cable. Bernie
  26. 1 point
    Do you hear a soft slow clicking noise when you turn on the ignition before engaging the starter? If your generator (not starter) brushes are worn, the starter/genterator will not rotate slowly with the engine not running but ignition on. This slow rotation and the associated clicking noise is due to the starter/generator slowly rotating to allow the pinion gear and starter gear to mesh properly and then engage. The actual clicking is the overriding clutch on the end of the starter generator doing its job. An educated guess is that your generator brushes are worn and when they are, this slow rotation feature does not happen. When running is the amp gauge showing 'charge'?
  27. 1 point
    I am leaning toward Brandon on this one. I think the new outer retainer with the rubber seal bonded to the inside was introduced around 1958 and was suppossed to be back compatible to 1953 and possibly earlier. The torque ball mated directly up against this rubber seal, there was no other rubber seal between them. The torque ball should be smooth so it does not damage the outer retainer bonded seal. There appear to be a few versions of this basic concept depending on the year. The smaller round seal in the third picture is the driveshaft seal that goes in the end of the torque tube housing to prevent transmission oil from running into the rear differential. On earlier models it was a spline seal but was changed in 1953 because they used a splined bushing on the drive shaft end. I am basing my statements on my experience replacing the torque ball seal on my 1953 Special with the new outer torque ball reatiner with the bonded rubber seal on the inside. Joe
  28. 1 point
    More progress, Thought I'd tackle one of the rear tail lights today. As there wasn't any earth I made up a cable that I attached under the rear guard which is hidden. Soldered the wires and used heat shrink to protect the joins. Using the new screws mounted the housing and then reinserted a reflective lens that I modified from an outdoor spotlight previously. Overall happy with the result, so I might try the other side next. Tomorrow, I'm off to an American Motoring Show at Flemington Racecourse ( where they hold the Melbourne Cup horse race ) and weather is suppose to be exceptional so looking forward to that. Cheers Ian
  29. 1 point
    It differs from the factory ones used on the 57's
  30. 1 point
    More progress..... Painted the cover supports that go over the front bumper irons and a bracket I made up to house the flasher cam and a relay. Found a good use for my wife's rose bushes !!! Also got the internals of the rear tail lights sorted out. Couldn't get the internal back in at first so then I put the ending in my vice and gently squeezed them and moved the tail light housing along a bit at a time. End result was they went in and no damage to the chrome housing. Next I might tackle the instrument panel and see how that goes. Cheers Ian