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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/10/2015 in all areas

  1. Mission accomplished, SES light off, all is well in Gold Canyon, AZ. Thank you Reatta forum for being the best friend of Reatta owner 's everywhere. One last thanks to Padgett for his tutorial and short cut procedure for curing an ill interrupter. Brilliant!
    2 points
  2. Once the battery is recharged from the starting procedure, I would expect the amp gauge to drop to 0. Does the battery fail to turn the engine over at any time? If not, then the question may be where are you running the volt meter from? If you are running it from the battery then it should read higher than the battery voltage when the system is charging, and the Amp gauge is in the positive ( output) side. But once the battery is charged and the system is in balance ( amp gauge at 0) the voltage regulator will stop the charging circuit and the battery should return to the 6 volts, maybe a percentage higher. Maybe I misinterpreted your post, but if the battery does not fail, then it appears your system is working as designed.
    2 points
  3. I would agree, but would much rather have been in a crash in any of my modern cars. You can't deny the laws of physics. There are three collisions in an accident. Anything that minimizes the last one is a huge benefit. I can testify to that. The first collision is your car involved with another object. The second is your collision with the inside of the vehicle or the vehicle restraints. A body in motion tends to stay in motion. The final collision happens inside your body. All those soft, squishy, things inside your body stay in motion and come crashing against the hard things like your skull and rib cage. This is where the serious damage is done. If you can slow that last impact with technology like seat belts and air bags and crumple zones the effects of a crash on the soft bits greatly minimized. Thinking that an old car with thicker metal and full frame and hard interior is safe is basically unscientific, anchronistic, but wishful thinking. Please don't anyone go there.
    2 points
  4. I am rebuilding the running boards on my '26 DB Coupe. The ones on the car are rotten. They are made out of plywood and covered with rubber and trimmed with aluminum. I am using solid hickory from hickory trees from my property that I had milled into lumber and kiln dried. These were old growth trees....there were two of them and they came down with a week of each other a few years ago. They were HUGE trees and had just gotten too big and we have really wet spring and they blew over. Being hickory and being so big, the wood is hard as a rock!! I had to get a carbide tipped planer knives as they would dull the HSS ones after planing only a couple of boards. Anyway, they will make good, solid running boards. So my question is, what did the original running boards look like? Were they plywood covered with rubber and trimmed with aluminum? I'd kinda like to leave the hickory uncovered.....just coat then with a few coats of polyurethane. They are supposed to be running BOARDS, right?! I've ordered DB logo'd kick plates from Myers. I don't see the need for the aluminum trim....or the rubber....but maybe it would look better covered with rubber? IDK. My planer died (again) and is in the shop so not sure when I will be able to finish them and post pictures. Opinions welcome.....
    1 point
  5. I was able to get permission from the owner of this project car that will allow me to post a couple of pictures of the engine to identify. I think the engine is a Continental and probably about 35 hp. The car is a 1912 Gabriel and is a typical assembled automobile. Please take a look and help me determine which engine, HP and also bore and stroke. I desire to learn about the car before I consider a purchase. Al[ATTACH=CONFIG]257114[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]257115[/ATTACH]
    1 point
  6. You will find a long line of outspread palms willing to help you get it moved, running, and sold. It starts with "the street is too narrow for the transport truck and we need another $200 for a tow truck to bring the car to a large parking lot. Can you coordinate the tow truck and the transporter?" Then it arrives, not running at a location near you; a few hundred into moving it around locally, then more getting it running, then insurance and licensing to create a transferable title. Some sort of transitional storage would be needed. By the time you are done, if you are not a seasoned car hobbyist, you will swear Bella Lugosi left you the car and he's biting your wallet. If there is a neighbor, nephew, grandson, or anyone who has gazed into that garage over the last 20 years with a dreamy gaze and rose colored glasses, give them the car. What you never experience will be an unknown blessing. Bernie
    1 point
  7. There is really no way to give you any kind of realistic ballpark without seeing at least good pictures of the car - so many things can effect the value - of course condition is key, but things like color, how it is equipped etc play a large role in value as well. You need to decide if you want to put some money into the car to sell it or just sell it as is. If it is a particularly nice example you would probably be better off getting it ready and presenting it well - if it is an average car you may not get your $$ that you put in it back out of it so it may be better to sell it as it sits. Depending on how and where it is sitting(stored) can play a large role in what you will or may need to do to get the car on the road as well. If it is in good dry storage you may be able to out a fresh battery in, some fresh gas and get it going. It will need tires for sure if it has been sitting on it's current shoes since the 90's, at least to make it safe to drive, but if they are in good condition and hold air fine you may want to just let the buyer know that they will need replaced. So much depends on the condition of the car to guide you in the right direction. See if you can get us additional info and above all else, pictures. You may want someone that knows Buicks/cars to take a look at it for you - let us know where the car is and possibly a forum member would live close by and be able to take a look at it. 76 Electra coupes are huge elegant cars and there is a market for them if they are well preserved. If the car is exceptionally nice you will probably get your best bang for your buck from eBay - no where will it get the kind of exposure than it will get on eBay. Nothing wrong with a good Craigslist ad as well - with the national search tools available it also has it's merits. Of course you can place a for sale ad in the Buy/sell section of this forum as well.
    1 point
  8. All Reattas came from the factory with 4 wheel ABS. The knuckle is the heavy cast iron part the front axle goes through. It swivels when you turn the wheels. The brake calipers bolt to it. "I have abs brakes so on the back they specify if the car does or does not have abs 4wd but so far I have not seen that notation with the from." I'm sorry, I don't know what you mean.
    1 point
  9. + A DUAL MASTER CYLINDER!!!!!!! It is a fairly straight forward job and is a massive improvement in safety Other than that have fun and welcome!.
    1 point
  10. Good luck with your Riv! I noticed that your glove box door sits straight and most of them don't. You are off to a good start. The hinge in the upper right corner usually breaks pre-maturely. Yours looks like it might still be intact which is a rarity. If so, open and close it with care. Regarding the exhaust, the stock transverse muffler is prone to collecting moisture and will rust out every 2 to 3 years unless the car is used as a daily driver. The resonators hold up much longer. As stated by others, you have options if you want to deviate from stock.
    1 point
  11. Yeah, I think Pontiac was busy building for the Allies, not the Axis.
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. Welcome! For anyone with a '63 Riv that is new to them, I will gladly decode the data plate found on the firewall above the power brake booster if you email me a good, clear, close up picture of it. You can learn a lot about how the car was originally equipped leaving the Fisher Body plant. Email is 63Riv at comcast dot net. There is also a 2-letter and 3-number code on the block that identifies the 401 engine or the 425. I can help you with that. Chasander, my '63 was also built in Nov.
    1 point
  14. Thanks! To finish off the brake light switch, reverse light switch, and horn connections went quickly after the adventure into the middle of the harness. Got the rebuilt starter reinstalled. Plan to get back to working on engine start, because with the wiring in place, hopefully engine start won't require much more in the way of parts cost. Once it starts/runs, will probably move onto the brake system - since I may be able to get functional brakes for less than the cost of a radiator recore. I expect the radiator will need to be recored, but just dropping off the radiator & writing a check is less "quality time" for me than getting a brake system going...
    1 point
  15. I don't know why it was not used on the 401, Roland. Perhaps there is an alternate method to insure the timing chain/sprockets get adequate oil, or perhaps Buick just decided it wasn't needed. Without knowing for sure it would be most prudent to install one. It is simply a piece of sheet metal with two bolt holes with the bottom curled into a trough that slopes at an angle towards and above the lower sprocket. There is nothing precision about it. Let the picture be your guide. It's not a very good pix but try to envision what I described and the pix will make sense......................Bob
    1 point
  16. Maybe with so many staying at the Best Western, we will have a shuttle.
    1 point
  17. It's truly a compromise situation. She wanted them and I compromised. She insisted and it saved her from being ejected from the car. If available I think they are better than nothing, but most retrofits aren't safe, anyway. Rusty sheet metal and big washers is not a great installation.
    1 point
  18. As to how important they are to the health and longevity of your engine my answer would be: "the engineers who designed and tested the 1958 engine thought they were important enough to justify the expense and time to require them". You must be the judge of the wisdom in omitting them from YOUR engine...........Bob
    1 point
  19. Does the original engine go with it also ? Wayne
    1 point
  20. If you're the queasy type. Don't look. However, the takeaway if you decide not to look is that you should always wear your seatbelt. They saved us from being tossed out of the car at great speed. The car was struck by the semi on the far left by the truck's bumper on the far right. It appears that the bumper rode up and that's what started tipping the truck. It's also what save us. I remember the front of the car getting airborne as we accelerated rapidly. That impact is what sent us spinning off to the right towards the bridge. The energy of that impact was used up somewhat in spinning, but we must have been going much faster than previously as Dave visited the site and paced off the distance from the bridge we hit and where we landed and he says there's no evidence of us touching the ground for 120 feet, where we rolled to a stop, upside-down. Speaking of upside-down it should be noted that this car was designed as the safest car of the time as it incorporated a very lightweight "frame" that has the rest of the body welded to it, and it has unintentional crumple zones. What likely save us, aside from the seat belts was the fact that the car had a very sturdy roll cage built into the A,B and C pillar. You can clearly imagine that from this picture. This is pretty impressive. One side spear survived. I'm going to ask for this as a souvenir. I think the front fender impacted the bridge. My wife recalls the spins and the impact with the bridge to the sound of breaking glass. That's all she remembers. I remember too much. I think the trunk lid stayed withe the car, but the hinges melted. The towing company found our luggage and my tool bag. The hat box survives, so it must have been tossed out while spinning. All we've lost is a Garmin, a cell phone, 2 iPads and my handicap hanger tag. They were in the glove box. All that was left were cinders and a ball of aluminum. I feel badly that Dan Kirkpatrick's beautiful interior was destroyed. The truck was pretty mangled. I believe the RH bumper tip of the truck is what rode up on the rear fender. Happier days. Fond memories. Wear your seat belts.
    1 point
  21. As has been discussed before it's all supply and demand. It's the start of a car in quite short supply, and pretty decent demand. The first step would be to buy the cleanest 6 Cyl. auto," little old lady" 73 Duster I could find and go from there. 340 ,4 speed anything's are high on many peoples list, and as long as you have the skills why not? Of course it would madness to tow this to a shop {with a blank cheque}. You would be underwater in the first month. But for someone who has the necessary time, skill and desire why not? If it was a Cuda it would be double and sold. The pool of performance option ;starting point cars , is steadily shrinking. And yes, for you non-Mopar guys it is definitely worth at least the asking price in parts. Greg in Canada
    1 point
  22. Not sure how to on mobile. Still in transit from picking it up.
    1 point
  23. The round plate is an oil slinger to minimize oil flowing against the front seal. The red part is a drip plate designed to drip oil onto the crank sprocket and chain. It's official name is "trough, timing chain oil feed". In your pix it looks like the drip plate has teeth. It does not. The "teeth" are light reflected by the clean machined boss and shadows of the top sprocket. The drip plate is easily made from sheet metal with the bottom curled into a trough. Use lock washers under the bolts. You should use both the slinger and drip plate. it might not be a big deal if you didn't but I sure would..................Bob
    1 point
  24. Not unusual, EBay and Craigslist is full of junk like that! Wayne
    1 point
  25. Just some bad pics (shed is dark) of the T & C as I am getting around to cleaning and polishing it up some. Note the one pic shows the one front fender NOT done yet to contrast "before and after" It is 55 year old paint and it is coming out okay - as far as I am concerned.
    1 point
  26. Yes, that was us. We're both still in the hospital with major bruises and abrasions, but no broken bones. It's a wonder we survived at all. We were on our way to St Joseph to show the Zephyr in the Concours we're involved in when the car started bogging down. I didn't want to finish the trip at 55 so we turned around to drop off the Zephyr and still hit the show. We were minding our own business in the right lane when I looked in my rear view mirror and saw the semi barreling down on us. I assumed they would pass but the driver never slowed down. At the very last second she swerved and hit my left rear that violently spun the car twice and forced us into the bridge abutment which flipped the car 5 times before it landed on the roof. I never lost consciousness but when we came to rest my wife was hanging from the seat belt. I reached up and unlatched her belt and she fell on me. At that point I realized the car was on fire, but my left leg wasn't working. I pushed her out of the car through the open passenger door. I climbed out over her to see flames 10 feet tall five feet from me. Somehow I managed to get up on my working leg, grabbed her limp,arm and dragged her 10 feet from the car before I collapsed. By that time some incredibly brave people stopped to help. The first guy picked my wife and carried her up the embankment. I crawled another 10 feet before the gas tank exploded, fully engulfing the car. Six people came to where I was and carried my big ass up the hill to,safety. The semi got sideways and she lost control flipping the trailer and demolishing the cab, yet she walked away from the wreck. The trailer had a load of baled scrap steel. Things could have been much worse. The driver claimed to have had an asthma attack, but made the mistake of telling the State policeman that "I looked up and saw something red." The police have requested her phone and medical records. We're still in St. Mary's in Livonia. They might release me today, but my wife's pretty banged up, but, remarkably, no broken bones. The car is clearly totaled. It was great fun while it lasted. I've never been a fan of just sung lap belts, but they clearly saved her life and she surely would have been thrown from the car.
    1 point
  27. Hub caps. Want to get a few more miles on the car and then re-torque the lug nuts before installing the caps. This was a low end Special equipped with a manual transmission and column shift. Fun to drive! And oh what torque! All original chrome except for three pieces that I had to replace and re-chrome. I was told that in was a Texas car. No rust issues except the floors.
    1 point
  28. Maiden voyage to day for the '57. Not finished but at least road worthy! Couldn't stand it any longer so put about 30 miles on it today. A little confidence builder for me!! Whoops! Don't believe the date on the camera was correct. Today (93 degrees) is NOT February weather in northern Indiana!
    1 point
  29. Yep. Regardless of what option the car has, whether or not the Super was born with those options.
    1 point
  30. At the end of the day, it's still a Super, though. Like Keith said, it's all in the name. I probably would have passed on my 60 if it was not a 225. Same with the Limited when I bought it.
    1 point
  31. Took my '38 to a local car show on Saturday. A beautiful '39 coupe parked behind me.
    1 point
  32. It' virtually impossible to offend Stuart (50 Jetback) believe me I have tried and tried
    1 point
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