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  1. 3 points
    Thanks for the advice! WIll leave the engine in the car and pull the heads off end of summer. Can take a look at the cylinders then before going further. If they don't look too bad will leave well enough be. Engine is quiet and makes good oil pressure even hot at low idle. Maybe we can take a vote on fiddling with the cam and timing chain when its apart. In the meantime, this misguided car that charged all over the North Country, sometimes pushing snow with the front bumper and passing out snowplows on the NYS Thruway (ok so maybe that wasn't so smart but we were in college and trying to get to a Springsteen concert ) will keep puffing around town. Then its gonna charge across country with the rest of the fleet!
  2. 2 points
    I hope everyone enjoys this as much as I did. The zonk prize footage is my favorite! Also there footage of Chevrolet, Pontiac, Cadillac, Buick, Chrysler and imports from the early to mid 70's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kLoKWErmRQ The Chevrolets https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhwHBBCv1Sg The Zonks Packard Cadillacs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kLoKWErmRQ
  3. 2 points
    I think you can look at this car and immediately figure out what camp you are in. I'm a guy that appreciates a traditional hot rod but consider this a crime. There are a bunch of you that think this is wonderful. These two camps can't be in the same club - they have NOTHING in common. So any club that is "adapting" to the changing times will simply lose their members interested in traditional cars. Since there are many many many 10 year old Cadillacs in theory the club will be much bigger. I'm not sure that is necessarily better. I would argue Jason, etc, and the rest of us should all fall back to the CCCA where the battle is over letting in a 49 Rolls Royce vs letting in a monstrosity.
  4. 2 points
    The link is in Post #8 above. I really don't understand the whole "this is the end of the world" mentality. The sad reality is that the automotive hobby is losing partiicipants as older members pass away. Being devisive and critical of other people's car collection choices is both intolerant and unhelpful as far as growing the hobby. I can appreciate a totally stock restored car as well as a well-build modified or street rod. The important thing to me is that the owner cares about his/her vehicle and takes care of it. Fractionating the hobby only serves to kill it off sooner. There are too many forces trying to do that now. We should not be helping them.
  5. 2 points
    I was at that Columbus Grand National meet, drove my 1929 Cadillac straight down I-71 and home in a monsoon. I didn't even think of driving my 2010 CTS, which was also welcome on the show field. Heck, I felt like it was cheating by having my wife drive the 1993 Allante we had for sale. Best moment of the show? My 3-year-old son walking up to the owner of a purple 1950s Cadillac with a hood scoop and stating, "I hate your car." Of course we castigated the boy for saying it, but I couldn't disagree with him. I think we're seeing a lot of '70s and '80s cars simply because we allow them, not because of growing popularity. They're cheap, they're easy to drive, they make no demands on an owner beyond gas and oil, and the clubs treat them exactly the same as a 1931 V16. And once in a while, usually while trying to solve a problem by the side of the road, I can understand the appeal of turning the key and knowing you'll get home. As I've said many times, it's very easy to love a new car. Wash it, wax it, buy it a trinket now and then, life is easy. You don't have to bleed for them. People are driving them because it's a painless way to participate and still feel like you're actively involved. It's a little lie they tell themselves, trying to convince themselves that they really do love that putty-colored 1982 Sedan DeVille as much as a 1941 60 Special or a 1954 Fleetwood. They're all Cadillac 4-door sedans, after all... Old cars are about more than getting there on time, they're about the journey. Everyone is focused on convenience and forgets the journey is the special part. I look forward to the drive, not the car show at the destination. In fact, I HATE car shows--I only go because it's an excuse to drive my old car. I know that old cars are a workout to drive, but isn't that kind of the point? These cars aren't popular because they're popular, they're popular because they're easy and because they're permissible. Our society is all about the shortcut, the quick fix, the painless solution. This is but one symptom of it.
  6. 2 points
    I'm 41 and an primarily interested in pre WWII cars.
  7. 2 points
    Adding this video taken by a local news station on show day. This is Al Schmidt with his STUNNING factory dual quad 64. This car won Best of Show at the ROA national in Branson MO a few years back. Al registered it as "display only" for this meet. Thank you for bringing it this year Al. A real treat for attendees. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cecr6O0y3-E
  8. 2 points
    Rebuild or repair? Won't know that until you tear it down step by step. Remove the cylinder heads. Remove a valve and check the guides for wear. Look at the cylinders for scores, excessive ridge. I am not against repair as necessary, but it is my understanding that Ken is misguided and thinks he want to charge around the country in that car ( whoever heard of that? ) Willie
  9. 1 point
    SOLD his rare 1932 Packard 902 Rumble Seat Coupe was just removed from nearly 30 years of dry storage. It is a neat original car that is very complete and very solid. The body is extremely sound and straight. With the exception of the flat tin platform which holds the rumble seat cushion, all of the body panels are in good original condition. The interior wood structure is solid and both doors open and close as they should and do not sag. The car retains lots of its original black paint. The chassis is complete and shows hardly any signs of wear or abuse. The steering and suspension components are nice and tight which indicate that this was a low mileage car prior to being put into storage. The engine (#345850) was partially disassembled many years ago and remains that way today. The cylinder head is loose and the bottom pan has been removed. The engine is fitted with a later downdraft carburetor and manifold. The lower end of the engine looks nice and clean. The removed parts are present and the engine is mostly complete with the exception of the distributor. The interior of the car is complete with its original seat cushions, window mechanisms, garnish moldings, dash board, instruments and gauges, Bijur system, rumble seat release, etc. The original upholstery on the seats, door panels and rumble seat cushions will make great patterns. The radiator shell, shutters, head lamps and bumpers are in good original condition. The mileage shown is around 33,000 which may be original. The car is basically complete but missing a few small items such as hubcaps, horns, one spare wheel, horn button, tail lights, and fender lights. The car retains its original data plate showing the car number as 508 171. The firewall number is I6I765. Included with the sale of the car is a complete 1931 engine (#327775) which is mounted on a rolling stand and was running many years ago. It is believe that this engine may have been rebuilt at some point. Also included is a set of four fenders (the front fenders have side mount wells) and a complete extra hood assembly as well as some other small parts. The parts are being sold with the car and are not available separately. This is a great opportunity to purchase an original and unmolested Packard. While it would make a great and very worthwhile restoration project, it might also be fun to restore it mechanically and drive it as is. It is believed that less than ten, 902 three-window, rumble seat coupes exist today and this may likely be the only unrestored example remaining. The car is located near Detroit, Michigan and is being sold with a clear and current title. The price for the car and all of the spare parts is 26,000.00 or near offers for the complete package. Please call 734-730-4274 or email directly at: motoringicons@hotmail.com to schedule a viewing or for more information. I have nearly 100 detailed photos of the car and parts that I can gladly send to serious parties. Thank you.
  10. 1 point
    Hello, my 68 fury 1 seems to have brake issues and i can't figure it out. It has drum brakes on all wheels. Ill be driving along and when i hit the brake pedal nothing happens until the pedal almost reaches the floor, then the passenger rear brake locks up and it feels like the other brakes have minimal breaking power. Any feedback to what is happening is greatly appreciated.
  11. 1 point
    Three things I notice. That gas looks yellow. The return spring is hooked up wrong. The accelerator pump rod looks very bent. I don't have a pic of those specifics. Maybe somebody else can help you out until I can take one.
  12. 1 point
    It could just be the lighting but it looks too dark to be coral mist which is a rare color. It looks closer to burgundy mist.
  13. 1 point
    A good set of snow tires and a Buick can take you up RT 81 between the Lake and the Tug Hill Plateau when the silent snow is just dropping in front of you. It pushes out ahead of the car and the "Whoosh", the accumulation flies over the top and starts again. Now, that's a driving experience. Bernie
  14. 1 point
    Sounds like a complete brake job is in order. I would start be adjusting the shoes. Then bleed. If that does not work, start looking at leaks or the master cylinder.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    What do you know, google turns up a picture of mine sitting in the driveway back in 2005.
  17. 1 point
    Can you post a picture of the linkage at the carb? Engine hot, but not running, and aircleaner off. Both the drivers and passengers side. It sounds like the engine idle speed screw is backed out too much.
  18. 1 point
    Roberta, I should be there to watch Smokey and the Bandit. My Dad will be in from Georgia and that's his favorite movie of all time so we are there with bug spray in hand! Also, I don't know who this "Jennifer" chick is but don't tell my wife Jessica about her. LOL.
  19. 1 point
    I have to say that I get real tired of the "nothing but a used car" comments on 1970's cars. They have not been seen on the roads or used car lots in any kind of quantities for at least 25 years. Most of the people making these comments are talking about prewar cars they started collecting when the cars were 20-25 years old, yet a 40 year old 1970's car is not old enough to be considered an antique by them. I like 1970's cars because of their style. I even was impressed looking at some Pintos, a car I used to laugh at, because it was amazing to see all the different colors, options, and interiors available on them as opposed to today's gray econoboxes. I like the flash and fins of 1950's cars also, as well as the streamlining and Art Deco touches on 1930's and '40's cars. But the 1910's - 20's cars look pretty bland to me for the most part. And anything from the 1900's looks to me like it should be being pulled by a horse. But I am glad that someone saves, restores, and enjoys them. I am not going to bash their owners like plenty of people do about 1970's and '80's cars. As far as not seeing enough prewar cars on the showfield, that is because a good portion of them are in museums or private collections and never leave the garage. Of the ones that do leave the garage, at least half are rolled out of an enclosed trailer only long enough to be judged, collect a trophy, and then rolled back in. Whereas I bet the majority of those 1970's and '80's cars are actually being driven and enjoyed. At many shows I have been to, for prewar cars you were looking at a closed trailer for most of the show, while the 1970's and '80's cars were out for the entire week for all to see. Some prewar cars are actually driven and I applaud that. However, I take long road trips that can last for a week, and I would rather do it in a car that can go 75 mph, has a decent radio, a/c, decent heat, a comfy ride, and reliable windshield wipers. I don't see how there is anything wrong with that. I am supposed to sweat, freeze, go 30 mph, listen to static, and get soaked when it rains, otherwise I am not enjoying an old car experience? The older I get, the less I want to work on it. Some people enjoy that, and that is fine. But I would rather spend my time driving and enjoying it. As far as having it worked on, it isn't any easier than a prewar car. Most places don't know what to do with it since they can't plug it into a computer. And restoration places don't want to deal with it either. They don't want to diagnose and repair it. They want a car dropped off with a blank check for a megabuck restoration. Some restoration places even claim it is too new for them to deal with. I have had it 3 different places for a week each trying to diagnose a strange intermittent dying out problem that no one can diagnose. So how is it supposed to be so much easier than a prewar car? As far as parts, you can get way more reproduction and original parts for Packards, Ford Model A's and T's than you can for 1970's Lincolns. You can get some 460 engine parts because they were used in Ford trucks, but for anything Lincoln exclusive, forget it. I was surprised that there were way more reproduction parts available for my father's Nash Metropolitan than there are for my car. A few years ago, I was stranded for several days out of state while a shop custom fabricated a part for my car because no one could locate a part for it, new, used, junkyard, Ebay, or anywhere. So how is that supposed to be so much easier than a prewar car? Sorry, I don't see how owning a 1970's car is lazy, faking the antique car experience, or anything else negative some people have claimed in this thread. Am I supposed to own something I don't like in order to make a few curmudgeons happy?
  20. 1 point
    The Vega was advertised at $1995 when it came out. When I went looking for a new car in 1975 the dealer had a whole row of them right out front, and every one was over $5000. They were loaded, but still I was shocked by the price of what I thought of as a $2000 car. Around back I spotted a full size, stripped sedan. It was the base model full size Chev, and it was only $200 more than a Vega. This kind of price gouging, doesn't get mentioned but it was another factor driving customers to buy imports.
  21. 1 point
    Here's a 36 Chevy coupe with an express box, seemingly a factory offering.
  22. 1 point
    I was always told by my dad that this was a Model T truck bed. I am going to sell it, and was told it was from the 40's. The guy said "it fits in the back of a car that had a trunk. They made a lot of them." Can anyone help me out on a positive ID? Thanks, Deb
  23. 1 point
    Imperial62, You don't have to rich to buy a top of the line 30's car. Try this one on for size: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Other-K-Model-/291426293558?forcerrptr=true&hash=item43da5c5736&item=291426293558 25K buys you this 1937 Lincoln K factory bodied 5 passenger sedan. rebuilt 414 cubic inch V 12, aluminum coachwork, sidemounts, And this one didn't need too much work to be really nice again. No, it's not a convertible coupe or phaeton (which would be priced exponentially more), but it gets your foot in the door and on the same show field with other elite cars. By the way, when I was born, I came home from the hospital in an all black '64 Imperial. Nice car!
  24. 1 point
    We have a 52 Chrysler that we are parting out.
  25. 1 point
    This car was at the local 'Cars and Coffee' on a Saturday morning. I walked around it and have pics of it in my reference folder. $109K I think not. Its a georgous car dont get me wrong, but I would think more like 60-75K MAYBE Someone is trying to get paid for their time.
  26. 1 point
    I have a 1930 Cadillac coupe and never joined the C L club as they seem to be newer cars that do not interest me. I was at the CCCA Museum Experience in June and there display at their museum also seems to center around the newer cars to me. If you look around most clubs seem to be attracting newer cars no different than cruse nights. I am not into reliving the 60s, 70s or 80s I am just interested in early mechanical technology. The wife and I are headed for Lancaster Pa. for the AACA Vintage Tour the end of the month where I hope I will have the newest car there. I also got an email to-day from the CCCA club for their Sept. tour 2016 where they are planning to hooking up with the AACA Glidden Tour for a day. Planning to attend that event also with AACA.
  27. 1 point
    The real problem with the Cadillac LaSalle Club is it's been overrun with the newer cars, which is a turn off to the people with pre war cars. My father has been a member since 1958, and I've been to many National Meets over the years. I remember going to a National Meet at Greenfield Village in the early 1980's when I was a kid and there was a whole row of V8 Cadillac touring cars from the teens. Another row of early one and four cylinder cars. Then a whole row of V 16's. That made a big impression on me as a 10 year old kid. I went to the National Meet in Columbus, OH a couple years ago. There was one one cylinder car, no 4 cylinder cars, maybe one V8 from the teens, and only 2 V 16's. Columbus, Ohio is very centrally located and is within a half day drive of Cleveland, Cincinnati, Pittsburgh, Chicago, Detroit, Buffalo, and Indianapolis. To get that kind of turnout of early cars at a National Meet in July is pathetic. The weather was perfect too. 1/3 of the parking lot was 1970's-1990's Cadillacs. The club accepts cars as new as 10 years old for display and judging. Older folks would rather drive a modern Cadillac with power steering & A/C than a historical one. During the meet, the section of the parking lot with the 1970's & newer cars looks like a ghost town as no one was looking at them. I'm not saying some 1970's or 80's Cadillac aren't collectible, some are and should be cherished & restored, but when 1/3 of the show field is populated with them, to me it's not a balanced representation of the 110 year history of Cadillac. Sorry if what I've said isn't politically correct, but sometimes the truth hurts.
  28. 1 point
    I would suggest Rock Auto (www.rockauto.com) for brake parts. Generally cheaper that other "speciality" parts suppliers. Rock has wheel cylinder from Raybestos and AC Delco for less than $30 each. They have brake hoses for $6 to $16 depending on brand and length. Another good source for your Chrysler parts is Northwestern Auto Supply in Grand Rapids, MI (northwesternautosupply.com). No online catalog just phone them and talk to a real old time parts man that knows his business.
  29. 1 point
    That's why I sold my Cadillac's and left the club.
  30. 1 point
    Times must be getting tough ! Wayne
  31. 1 point
    For brake parts try: Roberts Motor Parts http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/ Andy Bernbaum http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-service-brakes.aspx Hagens http://hagensautoparts.com/chrysler/9-brake/2767/ Your motor has factory installed hardened valve seats, so no additives should be necessary. Pictures of the mason jars might help. Are any hoses attached and, if so where, do they go? Chrysler used a glass jar to hold window washing fluid on some cars with that option. Check EBay for manuals. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1952-CHRYSLER-SHOP-MANUAL-GOOD-ORIGINAL-BOOK-C51-C52-C53-C54-C55-/161754226608?hash=item25a94d9fb0&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/1951-1952-Chrysler-Repair-Shop-Manual-51-52-New-Yorker-Windsor-Saratoga-Imperial-/221816703981?hash=item33a54e4bed&vxp=mtr Good luck and have fun with your new acquisition!
  32. 1 point
    Charge around the country? Insane. Used head, hand lapped valves installed in 2002. The previous owner broke a valve cover bolt while changing the gasket (dangerous boy). Then drilled into the water jacket and made a green fountain. Not deterred, he broke a tap off in the hole. Then let it sit for two years figuring out how to get the tap out. Charging around just fine now. Bernie
  33. 1 point
    I would go for this. Be careful not to do too good a job. Hand lapping the leaking valve to seat it in a worn engine is much better than having a three angle valve grind done. It will duplicate the wear in the other 14 valves and allow that slight leakage, like the rest, to keep blowby from pushing past the rings. If you tighten two cylinders up too much you will probably see blue puffs from the draft tube; not very ladylike when parking at a show. Bernie
  34. 1 point
    Additional bending and moving around of the assemblies and now have driven about 30 miles, RR crossings, bumps etc. and hood remains closed. Truly a hit and miss job. Thanks.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Hmm, i think Suzanne needs to keep an eye on you. I never even noticed that. :-)
  37. 1 point
    Just my 2 cents .. one two . Paid in full.
  38. 1 point
    Okay, I own an electric car and have solar. And 4 Reattas among many other GM cars. Government assistance is everywhere. I really like receiving my Social Security each month. But I paid into it. The government also helped on my electric car and solar installation. Getting back to Reattas, should the Government have bailed out GM?????
  39. 1 point
    As a matter of decorum, I have removed my lengthy, off-topic rant in this thread as: 1. This is not the venue for such discussion, and 2. Upon further consideration, I decided it was simply unneccessary. In place of the wall of text I've now removed I leave the following succinct remark, take it as you may: It is what it is - until it isn't. KDirk
  40. 1 point
    Sorry about that. BTW, did you know that after the Reatta was cancelled, GM used the Reatta Craft Centre to build the EV-1? And interestingly, it was the aftermath of GMs decision to cancel the EV-1 and then _idiotically_ crush them that directly led the founders of Tesla to start their own company. So believe it or not there is a tie in to the Reatta.
  41. 1 point
    Cargirl: You watch too much fox news.
  42. 1 point
    3.23 is a starter for a Model T Ford, do doubt " contaminating" the frame.
  43. 1 point
    These parts look Buick to me. The rear spring hangers and trans mount casting are the same as one of my late teens Buick frames. The dumb iron spreader is not present on the teens frames, so perhaps 1924 or so when there was a signifigant redesign. Greg in Canada
  44. 1 point
    Mid 1920s I reckon. Some similarities though also differences to my 1926 Pontiac. Hard to be certain but there may have been the rod for a front brake there somewhere around 3.10.
  45. 1 point
    Yup, much newer than 1914. Also, the widow regulators are from some other car
  46. 1 point
    It almost looks like one of those rear floor heater vents from the 1920s cars.
  47. 1 point
    I have never seen a part that remotely resembles that object on or in any car. I am almost 100% sure it is not automotive
  48. 1 point
    More work on the carburetors and linkage! I'm using four Stromberg EX-23 carbs from 1936-37 Studebaker sedans, similar to the ones used by the factory. However, the sedan carbs had stamped throttle arms that were peened onto the ends of the throttle shafts. Some of the old carbs I acquired had the shafts completely frozen in the base or the peened brass had split, leaving the arms loose. The stamped arms were all wrong anyway, so I had made new arms and links, but I also needed to make new shafts. The shafts are 1/4" diameter brass with a 1/16" wide slot cut in it for the throttle plate. Two tiny 6-32 screws secure the plate to the shaft. One end is threaded for a 10-32 nut, then milled on two surfaces to locate the throttle pump lever. I'm not a very experienced machinist and the task looked pretty daunting. Since I needed four shafts for me and eight more for carbs for some other guys, the estimate I got of $60 each made the potential cash outlay pretty high for a few small parts. So, I did it myself on my Harbor Freight 7"x10" "toy" lathe and my used Rong Fu mill/drill. Starting with 1/4 brass rod, I cut the pieces to 4.000" long, then turned down and threaded one end. With some old aluminum scrap, I made up a fixture with alignment stops to hold the shafts in the mill. I bought a 1/16" wide x 2.5" diameter slotting saw and arbor from Victor Machinery (good supplier for drilling/milling bits and cutters, etc.). With a shaft in my fixture, I leveled the shaft parallel to the bed, centered everything up, and cut the slot part-way through the shaft, then flipped the shaft over and did the slot from the other side. This left room to slide the throttle plate in. I kept a close watch on where my fingers went with the saw blade spinning at high speed! Next, I drilled and tapped the two 6-32 holes crosswise on the shaft, drilling right through the fixture. I finished up with and end mill to cut down the small shoulder and 10-32 threads to mount the throttle pump arm, using the cross holes to align the 180 degree rotation. Getting the exact alignment for all of these operations was tough. My results weren't perfect, but good enough to reassemble a carb, tighten down the new throttle plate screws, and do a test assembly of the rest of the linkage. The throttle arms and stamped links had been zinc plated with clear chromate overcoat at a local shop. The parts look very much like the original cars (see photo below). It was a lot of work for some small details, but worth the effort. I still have to strip all the carbs, de-gunk them, paint the bodies flat black, and reassemble with new gaskets.
  49. 1 point
    Ed: The original 1931-33 Studebaker Indy cars used the 337 cu in President straight 8. In the 1933 race, the five factory cars were beaten by an independent entry running the smaller 250 cu in straight 8. Due to the depression, production of the 337 cu in engine was cancelled for 1934 and the factory was developing a racing version of the 250 engine when bankruptcy ended Studebaker's Indy program. At least one of the engines was installed in a factory car for tests. A few completed race engines were sold off, current locations unknown. My engine will be one of the Studebaker 250 cu in straight 8's, as used from 1929-42 in Studebaker sedans. I found a couple of 1937 blocks to use - they look the same externally as the early engines, with the water pump on the left side. These used insert bearings in the 9-bearing crankshaft mains and also in the rods, unlike babbited mains of the earlier blocks. I've got one 7:1 compression aluminum head. Using old photos and some measurements from the existing Indy cars, I designed and made cast aluminum intakes for four Stromberg EX-23 carbs, as well as the linkages. The cam will be a hotter version of the stock cam with longer duration. While the original engines used a magneto because they didn't carry batteries in the cars, I'll stick with the stock dual-point distributor. My engine will look pretty close to the one shown below in the 1934 photo. Expected output will be 190-200 hp at 4000-4400 rpm, 250-260 lb-ft of torque over a broad range of rpms. I've got a 1938 President 3-speed transmission, one of the "sideways" boxes with synchromesh. Gerry Kurtz can add an overdrive to it for me, if I decide I need one. Rear axle is from a 1928 Studebaker GB commander coupe with stock 3.31 ratio. With 7.00-18 tires on the rear, that should be good for more than 115 mph, without overdrive. I picked up five NOS axle shafts from Nelson Pease in Palmer, MA, passed along two of them to Bob Valpey for his #37 car. The original factory cars used the same axle with 3.09 ratio. Front axle is from a 1929 President FH sedan, about the same as the originals. My steering box came from the same 1929 President donor car. Ed, I was in your shop in September with the other Studebaker guys on tour, if you remember.