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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/09/2015 in all areas

  1. I'm a bit behind, but I went to a couple of local cruise nights last week in the '41 McLaughlin Buick Roadmaster coupe (Canadian built), and I was able tp park beside a friend's '41 Buick Special (US built) 4 door. Also, there were a couple of rods there with nailheads, I got a couple of pictures of this one, running a 401, the other with what I think was a 425 nailhead was gone before I got any decent pictures. Keith
    3 points
  2. Been working all weekend on details for the three cars I am bringing to Springfield. NO trailer queens here. I'll be driving the '48 Super (unrestored 60,000 miles, making its first appearance at a BCA meet) and my two helpers will drive the '48 Roadmaster (17,000 miles, making its first appearance at a BCA event) and the three-speed 1970 Wildcat. Tires are new, hoses are new, fan belts are new, brakes all redone, and I am carrying a couple of spare fuel pumps and water pumps. Wish me luck. Springfield, here we come! The two '48s will be in the Archival Class and the '70 will be in the 400-point judging, although it is far from being a 400-point car. Looking forward to seeing everyone at the meet. Pete Phillips Leonard, TX
    2 points
  3. Left Dillon CO yesterday am 32 degrees; Hays KS 95 degrees...not bad if you find a micro brewery with with a nice Oatmeal Stout. About 400 miles to Springfield where I can really get into trouble Willie
    2 points
  4. Sean, As I have mentioned, my suspicion is that an algorithmic email spam scanner at Hotmail is rating the AACA forum notifications as spam and filtering them out. I don't have much evidence to support that thinking, in all honesty. But the subject line for the forum notifications is this: "MemberX started a new personal conversation with you." I've privately suggested to Peter he might want to try changing the notification template's subject line to something else as a test, maybe replace "personal conversation" with "PM conversation" and see what happens. This is a real stab in the dark and if it works (assuming Peter has the time and inclination to test it), I'm gonna buy a few lottery tickets! LOL...
    2 points
  5. Hello looking to restore my 1937 pontiac and cannot find information on body tag paint and trim codes. Does anyone have a link to or know what the paint code 5d and trim code 41v mean? Ill try to upload a picture of the tag. Thank you!
    1 point
  6. On Craigslist you can type 192* and it will bring up everything from 1920 through 1929. A little faster than 1920, 1921 1922.......
    1 point
  7. Lance!!! in the words of Harry Carey. "Holy Cow"!! What luck! What a great looking ride, and unbelievable that they are a matching pair! What's the probability of that? Looking forward to seeing you at Nationals on Friday. Have a safe journey and see you then!
    1 point
  8. Hi folks I am considering opening a small antique car museum / 1930 era service station in the near future. I presently have my personal car collection housed in a 15,000 plus square foot pole barn. I am considering hoisting a stripped down Model A ( basic Tudor ) up on to the roof as my signature signage. My engineer wants to know the weight of a stripped Model A Ford without engine, transmission and interior, it will have full body, wheels and glass to look complete from a distance to ensure roof trusses will handle the weight. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Wayne
    1 point
  9. Lots of the comments are good. However, everyone focuses on mechanicals. But they typically are not the grearest expense if a car is to be used or restored. Things like excessive rust, poor upholstery and chrome are the really big expenses involved in an older car. Mechanicals are relatively inexpensive to repair.
    1 point
  10. Timing is everything. If you snooze you lose. Every minute you delay gives someone else an opportunity. If it is local to you and you can pick it up yourself, what do you have to lose ? Wayne
    1 point
  11. I agree 100%. They might allow a wheel to be pulled at the most, but no disassembly of the motor. Wayne
    1 point
  12. Tuesday Am and we are ready to make the long and tiring drive to Springfield it's all of 35 miles from where we spent the weekend. Yesterday morning a front took all the humidity away and it was only in the low 80 si stead of the mid 90 s. This morning is great too. Looking forward to seeing you all there.
    1 point
  13. Send yours to Bob's. They have them revulcanized and then send them back. Don't look elsewhere.
    1 point
  14. Sometime ago, I recall looking at mud bones' youtube dynaflow rebuild series and I think in one of them he is welding a grooved retainer ring on the outer perimeter of his for added insurance. Might want to take a close look at that and see what he is up to. As far as the suggestion for finding another vender, these days they might all be buying the same junk from the same peddler …. just saying. I believe the OEM assembly and seal was vulcanized as a single unit to meet and seal better with the ring seal and this newer stuff is not. If that is the case, I believe there are places out there where you can get your unit properly vulcanized using the right material before assembly.
    1 point
  15. When owning an old car, it is not just an experience, it is an adventure. I just put a new gas tank in my truck this week and the next thing the carb had gas running out the inlet. Float or something sticking. If it is not one thing, it is another thing. As for affordability and the middle class, much of that has been taken away by the politicians with the increasing taxes. The continued rising tax burden has wiped out the middle class. When I was young the taxes on a gallon of gas was about 5 cents. Now it is in the 50 cents a gallon. AND that is just at the pump. Take into consideration all of the taxes the businesses pay to get the gallon of gas at the pump and 50% of the cost of a gallon of gas is probably taxes. (US Michigan pricing) Exponentially more in Canada, Europe, and other parts of the world. Gas taxes is just one item. Think of your income taxes, property taxes and the tax burden for working I am confident is more than 50% of your total earnings when looking at the components of your purchases of products & services. A lot more than just a few years ago. Off my soap box for now.
    1 point
  16. We will never be safe with 3 more Texas Road Warriors. SS
    1 point
  17. Thanks, Mr. Earl. It is quite rare, in fact there is not another known to exist. The body number is 8, and the chassis number is a bit over halfway through the run for '41s in Canada, so if one extrapolates that, there were 15 or so made. We do not know if this is accurate, as GM of Canada discarded all of their old records many years ago. I was President of the McLaughlin Buick Club of Canada for 10 years, and none of the long time members had ever seen another either. All that said, it is virtually identical to the US model, 76S, though there are a couple of minor trim differences on Canadian cars, but in Canada they are known by the Fisher body number, 4727. Also, it is of course not overly valuable, as there aren't a bunch of folks out there trying to buy one. It is a nice car, and I love to drive it! It looks nice, but its' no 400 pointer. Keith
    1 point
  18. This very lovely young lady was at an event where I was and wanted her picture taken with my car, a 1941 McLaughlin Buick Roadmaster Coupe, and I let her sit in it for a couple of other photos. Keith
    1 point
  19. Checked the power to the hot gas bypass valve today and found the voltage to be 11.3 no matter where the temp control was placed. So I will assume there is something wrong with the temp rheostat. The 1954 Cadillac A/C manual says to check the valve by applying battery voltage which I did. If it is working an audible click can be heard, which it did. Not that it matters that much. Yes Willie and James, since Al Gore invented the internet and global warming,the NYC area goes from cool damp springs to hot dang summers overnight!
    1 point
  20. No kidding...I will have an empty trailer in Springfield, too!
    1 point
  21. KDirk, they still intrigue me lol - AND you could even have a Polo Green convertible
    1 point
  22. An intersting take. I will say the Northstar spooks me. That is how I ended up with a Reatta to start; I really wanted a 99-02 Eldorado but having personally witnessed a number of Northstars pull the head bolts and leak from the half case seal, I stayed clear and went for the Reatta instead. Needless to say, I've no regrets though I still really like the look of the last gen Eldorado. The Caddy 4.9L PFI V8 was a great engine (have it in my Deville and it is essentially the V8 version of a 3800 in terms of reliability). Even it's predecessor, the 4.5L PFI V8 was a good engine but just a bit lean in power for the size of the cars it went in. If I were to ever consider an Allante it would be a non-Northstar, counterintuitive though that may seem. In any case, my interest and bias in favoring the Reatta is not likely to lessen so I've little interest in starting over with another car and the associated learning curve. Still, I wouldn't entirely rule out an Allante if I had room and budget for another car and the right deal came along. KDirk
    1 point
  23. I use my 1929 Ford pickup at the cottage to transport soil, sod and othe payloads, Because they are a quarter ton pickup I limit loads to maximum 500 pounds. I have a friend that tells me that it will carry much more ! What do you folks think ? Thanks, Wayne
    1 point
  24. Currently on ebay is this rare Texan edition (I couldn't help myself, I had to post this picture)
    1 point
  25. That's reassurance enough for me! Cheers, Ray.
    1 point
  26. And always remember: they ALL leak. Don't let that dissuade you from an otherwise good car.
    1 point
  27. one thing to remember is - all states vary somewhat in what the policy may allow and some "classic car" insurance companies do not cover every state. i had my Reatta on my "regular" State Farm policy since she was my daily driver. The Studebakers i've had all have been insured by Infinity thru a local agent. some restrictions do apply as Ronnie stated above - stored in a secured building, mileage, etc. NADA's price guides run a bit high on valuations of classic cars. again, as Ronnie stated, using the "High Retail" value in a "agreed" policy is the way to go.
    1 point
  28. Shoot. We played many shows with the Reverend. Gatton threatened to steal some trim from my Special at a show at Fort Reno park in DC where we opened up for him when I was 18. He was a hot rod guy to the core.
    1 point
  29. I owned a '93 Allante (first year with Northstar engine). I don't think we're comparing apples to apples. The Allante was better engineered, better ride and gets a halo above itself for having the Northstar (although the 1991-1992 years were better built mechanically). Also, the history of how the Allante came to be (Pininfarina design, Italy made shipped on 747s to the US), didn't share many parts with other GM cars, it was a Cadillac (which use to mean something) and that it was built to be direct competition with the SL Benz...makes for good story. The Reatta may have been hand assembled but unlike the Allante, the Reatta shares parts with other GM cars (kind of like the original Audi Quattro of its day). What the Reatta has going for it is design. As a coupe, I think it's a better looking car then an Allante hardtop. One more thing: Cadillac marketed the heck out of the Allante. GM wanted the car to be 1st choice for those shopping an SL. On the other hand, we know Buick did a poor job marketing the Reatta. GM tried to make the car a poor man's SL and we also know it was bad timing for the Reatta to get into the market while in Allante's shadow. I didn't have any problems with the Northstar (had 65,000 miles when I sold it) but plenty people did. If I recall, two main issues were oil consumption (one quart every 1,500 miles) and bad gaskets. Otherwise it was a great engine for its time. Reatta has a terrific engine but also has some thorns to deal with (Teves/accumulator and wheel speed sensors). If I had to decide between the two, I'd chose the Reatta. In an Allante, you're driving a cruise ship (soft ride) with an IP that's tough to read (and confusing) in sunlight. In a Reatta, the confinement one may feel in the car enhances a more personal driving experience. And the 16 way seats feel better then the Allante's (even w/o thigh bolster support).
    1 point
  30. I agree with Ronnie, just replace everything and make sure only to use a quality pump (I used to say only use AC Delco pumps but do not know who or where they are made anymore. With that much rust on the fuel lines, I be inspecting the brake lines very closely also.
    1 point
  31. James, I was traveling over the weekend and didn't see your request until today. The PM to bhambulldog has been sent. Let us know what happens please.
    1 point
  32. I actually made most of mine, in various sizes for the 53 Special. Just tacked, welded, a small bolt to heavy sheet metal I cut with the proper curve which tightens in the molding when the nut is tightened.
    1 point
  33. Where do you store your golf clubs?
    1 point
  34. A new tank in the Reatta Store is less than $150 with free shipping. I wouldn't drop the tank for that if you paid me. I wouldn't take the chance of having to drop the tank again by using a sealer that might not work. New tank straps, fuel pumps and other items you will need are there too. As for the rusted lines... you will need to contact Jim Finn ( select60s@gmail.com ) or another vendor to get a good used pump assembly and fuel lines. They are not available new to my knowledge. Install a new pump, pulsator and strainer in the assembly, Install that new tank and you're done. Instructions for replacing the tank and the pump can be found here.
    1 point
  35. Glad the young ladies seem to be taken to the older cars via photography. I absolutely LOVE taking different angles of cars ... or reflections ... or both ... kinda like this one I took a few years ago now: Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com 1979 & 1989 Caprice Classics | pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve"Could everyone agree that they should not be left alone?" __ Filter __ 'Take A Picture'
    1 point
  36. I have a side line of driving a livery service's antique cars for weddings The professional photographers love the old cars. Their work is our best advertising. The cars in the livery are ; 1930 Ford sedan 1931 Ford sedan 1936 Packard 200-B 1939 Rolls Royce Wraith formal saloon (aluminium body) 1940 Packard 110 sedan 1952 Bentley standard saloon (steel body)
    1 point
  37. Gonna be hard to leave this for steamy Spingfield (or the home turf). The 55 is going over the mountains like a goat --- a three-legged, asthmatic goat. Back on the road tomorrow...or the next day...or... Willie
    1 point
  38. My car has crank windows and they work without the ignition turned on as well, so the concept applies to both power and manual windows. Could we have uncovered a GM conspiracy here? Bernie
    1 point
  39. Great news!!! It worked, I poured a lot of the good oil (ATF+Acetone) a couple of days ago and yesterday I spent two hours tapping and oiling, more oiling and tapping and one by one all the valves gave up. Beautiful sound the clip sound of them getting loose. Thank you for all your support and ideas. Now that everything is moving as its suppose to, I'm planning to test the compression and then remove the pan to clean it. There is anything else that I should look for or take care of?
    1 point
  40. Mark, I'd be very interested in these as well as would love to be introduce to this interesting person. What foresight to have done this!! Can you email me his contact info. I started collecting these several years ago and got pretty much everything down into the 50's, then it started getting expensive. Not sure I can swing the purchase but want to at least talk to him and see what we might can work out. Here's my lil piddly collection...
    1 point
  41. Now there's a detailed ad.
    1 point
  42. Use a small ball pein hammer and tap right in the middle. Or use a rod of steel or brass, and tap with a hammer. Do not tap the edge or you may bend the valve. The spring should make it snap down with a light tap. The cam must be turned away to allow the valve to drop.
    1 point
  43. So Where's Victoria??? All I see is a car... I found her in a kaiser... Quote: Most of my money I spent on Tools, Mechanical things, and Girls. Sorry the wrong car . but nice #4 look At%
    1 point
  44. Cool! Mind if I post this pic to Buick Trucks? Hope not, cause I did.
    1 point
  45. Thanks for the advice, I searched and searched the internet to find what color to spray the engine (it had two different shades of blue on it). The shade of blue green I chose is really close to the original I've seen pics of on google and Bill is right the 1963 401's were red and the 64 425s were the blue green. My pics are off color wise (my valve covers look grey but aren't). I can't agree more on any black car! there's just a sleekness and a class to black cars in my opinion. It's not the original color of the car not sure the name but it was a burnt gold metallic, I found out when I pulled the inner door panel off. Black is a much better choice since I think that gold is not a great color choice (I've never been a big fan of gold metallics) I'm glad it's black it saves me the trouble of painting it! lol Cheers! Mark
    1 point
  46. I'm calling this post: RAN WHEN PARKED While it isn't actually running just yet, I was able to get her to move freely and put a charged battery to it and get oil up through the top end. (plus this is my first video - thanks son). I have to replace some gas line hose, hook up a temporary gas can, get the plugs back and have my fire extinguisher handy before the actual starting up but moving ahead again.
    1 point
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