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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/03/2015 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Here is my '47 Roadmaster. It is unrestored with original paint and upholstery It was purchased new by a recently discharged Sailor. His girlfriend had left him during the War and his new Buick became his love. He took great care of her and that care shows today. It was always garage kept in the Pittsburgh area. She was retired in the mid 1950's and only brought out for an occasional ride around the block with the neighbor kids in the summer. Only 80K miles. This story comes from one of those kids.
  2. 1 point
    Greetings, all! I've been lurking around these forums for a few months, and finally have a reason to contribute! Yesterday evening, I became the proud owner of this diamond in the rough (attached). Needs some love; the pictures tell the story. It's a 1946 Roadmaster 76-S; the car was a co-worker's, and subsequently gifted to myself. The car spent an indeterminable amount of time parked in the field (got to where it sat under it's own power), and the last time it started it was five or six years ago. Car is complete with all trim and panels (save for one rear turn signal and some glass)! It's going to be a big, big project, but the price was right! Edit: Corrected some grammar and added a couple more details
  3. 1 point
    Hello to all car enthusiasts, This is my first post to the forum and actually my first ever antique car. I’m Cuban and all my life I was surrounded by cars from the past. I’ve always dreamed of having one back in the Island but such cars are more of a luxury, and only a few people can afford to buy. When I came to the States, I realized that even thought, a lot of the classics are expensive, there is an option to every pocket. Time passed and life kept me busy, I married, had kids and my dream of owning a classic went to the back of my mind. My dream torpid quietly, until last year when we stop by a local car show. My wife and specially my boys (2 and 4 years old) loved the cars. The giant awaken in me and as my wife knows, when an idea grab me, I don’t rest until it is satisfied. With her OK the search started, she just made a request, she wanted us to look for an art deco classic. I confess that my heart was more into the fifties, the ones that I have grown up with back in my country, but when you get your wife on board a project like this, please try to make her happy. During my search I truly fell in love with the thirties, those fenders, grill and suicide doors have an incredible appeal. I spent countless hours on ebay and craiglist looking for the perfect match; a car from the thirties, in solid condition (never have done body work) and accessible to my pocket (not deep at all). Finally in Connecticut, a truly barn find came to the light; a beautiful 1936 Plymouth, parked since 1954 inside a warehouse. A couple of weeks later and a few calls, the whole family went to check the prospect. Just as we wanted it; unrestored, complete and in solid condition, just waiting for its chance to come back to life. Next day my son and I went back with a trailer and our new family member was on its way home. I'm not sure how long this project is going to take, but what I do know is that it would be a lot of fun, hard work, sweat and guidance from experiences.
  4. 1 point
    This burns me up. I wish we could get ethanol free gas here in STL. Outstate there is some availability but nothing in reasonable driving distance. Being in the midwest (the cornbelt) we are probably stuck with this garbage as the subsidies are a major part of the state farming economy here and in several surrounding states. Even just the option of getting it at one or two pumps at larger stations would be great. We did finally get rid of MTBE and the vapor recovery systems at the pumps here that were instituted back in the 80's but seems like E10 is the scourge that will not be killed. Also, since we are already paying extra for it via corn subsidies, E-free should cost less. It also improves fuel economy which, if the environment were truly the concern here (hint: it isn't), would be considered beneficial rather than sacrificing MPG's so a few farming operations could profit handsomely. Then again, higher fuel economy would reduce fuel purchases resulting in a hit to gas taxes (perish the thought) and they (whores, uh, I mean politicians) already complain about the loss of tax reveune from the proliferation of hybrids, this after encouraging and even subsidizing their purchase. See what they did there? Most problems we face have easy solutions. It is the job of those who hold the power and control to complicate matters so much as to insure nothing simple can ever be considered viable. KDirk
  5. 1 point
    One of 5 wheels done. Tank almost done.
  6. 1 point
    I'm assuming it would eliminate both, yes. If all goes well, ill get this for my birthday
  7. 1 point
    Stil searching for a switch so any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  8. 1 point
    I got rid of the 4 blade stock fan and used a 6 blade flex fan with a longer extension to move the fan closer to the radiator and that helped cool down the engine. I did this to all of my Buicks.
  9. 1 point
    Yes sold it t a young man from Chicago and he joined the LCOC AND the Lake Shore region so yes I hope to see this beautiful car many times in the future!
  10. 1 point
    Amazing, thanks for sharing. PS, an urgent request can a moderator fix or delete my rating? I meant to give it 5 stars.
  11. 1 point
    Sweet!!! What a sad welcome home for the sailor. But what a great steward for the car... nice find!
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    One thought, after seeing the voter turnout for the BOD, is whether online voting might help turn that around. Of course there would need to be some sort of secure login and, for a period of time, we would need some sort of dual system. With the rise of electronic communication and commensurate drop in paper based mail, the price to mail the ballot may be getting to the point of a disincentive. Those who find it important enough will still do it, but I know my confidence in Canada Post to start the process of getting it in on time and to the correct location isn't high (our ballot was initially returned without a postmark after having bought a stamp and mailing it at a postal outlet). Many of us will renew with our credit cards online so there is a level of comfort these days, although admittedly not for everyone.
  14. 1 point
    These results make me happy. Screw the apathetic voters. Congrats fellas
  15. 1 point
    Thanks Mike - after your advice and some from the v8Buick forum the pulley came off after a little persuasion with a hammer. 53 years of Oregon moisture had that pulley rust welded on there.
  16. 1 point
    I am grateful for the support and look forward to serving the Club and it's members.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks for this exciting news Brian. Conrats to all but especially to our forum regulars, JohnD and Brian.
  18. 1 point
    I will be leaving Wednesday morning. Should be there Thursday around noon.
  19. 1 point
    I can see them. I'm not sure if the "first one built" in the car's second year adds any value to the car. Once it has had a full complete and authentic type restoration completed, I believe it's value would be around $75,000 (maybe as high as $90,000). It appears to be a nice solid and mostly complete car (didn't see a radio, nor the air cleaner), so restoration would probably be relatively simple. Not knowing anything about its mechanical condition other than that the engine is free and that it starts, I would also assume that it's going to need an engine rebuild. My opinion, it's value is somewhere between $20-$30,000. Others may think much less.
  20. 1 point
    Thought for a moment I had accidentally clicked on HAMB.
  21. 1 point
    Cheesy, maybe. The expensive alternative? Cant justify it. One has to weigh the balance between the look they want and the wallet they don't have. I took this project on after someone had already done the tail lights and fuel fill. Not what I would have gone with but looks OK to me for what it is. The black (flat black by the way) bumpers look right at home on this car. I don't know how it will look when the rest of the trim goes on but the budget only allows so much. This very durable paint is in the thirty dollar a gallon range. John Deere chassis paint. I spent a bunch on the 392 and the four speed and had to get real about the expense of chrome. Fortunately I have a good grill and trim. For those of you that see this as perverted please do not respond. I am having fun and that is all that matters to me.
  22. 1 point
    Thank You Ron for your dedication to your cars. They are all beautiful. Can't wait for the photos of the 6-38 when completed. Which is your favorite? Additional note: Your home is stunning. What a beautiful area!
  23. 1 point
    Thanks guys. Time to get my hands dirty Ray.
  24. 1 point
    OK Gerard: I can't answer you question for several reasons. The car I did is undercover, our area is somewhat dry compared to the Eastern part of the country, I haven't really gotten the car wet to the degree of how it would be had it been parked outside in heavy precipitation. I didn't use clear. I used some lemon oil and that seemed to darken the veneer up a wee bit after the stain settled. I hope this lasts because I would have to take the door panel off and repeat the process if it fails. One last item of note. Clarks offers pins that fasten the door panel to the door shell. The upholstery shop I used used grasshopper clips. The advantage is that they are forgiving and the door panel can be removed many times with out the fasteners falling apart. Now......the pins that hold the metal backing plate in place may not be as forgiving! Your wood is looking good Chris. Mitch
  25. 1 point
    All, Two of my other Kissels are currently "inert" and unable to come out - but soon they will be. The pictured blue one is a 1924 Kissel Model 6-55 Victoria Coupe - the only one that survives. It will be driving at this year's St. John's Concours de Elegance as an unrestored original. The other one being restored is va 1918 Kissel Model 6-38 All-Year Sedanette. - the only one that survives and possibly the only Kissel All-Year bodied car that has both tops of all years. It will take another year to rehabilitate her. A very big car! Ron Hausmann P.E.
  26. 1 point
    Honestly, if it was mine I'd bring it home and drive it until it broke. Get aggressive about it and it will break soon. Then the problem is defined. I remember driving a car home from Buffalo that kept running progressively worse and I was just hoping it would fail completely to identify itself. Imagine going to a doctor, pointing at your arm and saying I have a pain here. The tests and farting around could go on forever. Now, walk in with a compound fracture and the bone sticking out through the skin. Point to that and say "Fix this." Pushing it to the breaking point may be the alternative to speculation, diagnosis by the process of elimination, and the laying of hands. The best idea would be to let the owner of the appraisal company ride along. Call him, tell him you are going to do it, and ask where you can pick him up. I sure wish you lived closer, Bernie Bernie
  27. 1 point
    I met her at the Eyes on Design Show held on the Edsel Ford Estate grounds several years ago. She told me it was getting hard for her to steer the car. Dandy Dave!
  28. 1 point
    Because the cars you buy are unique, and there is no going out and "buying one done." The only one that's done is sometime in the future when you finish it.
  29. 1 point
    solid chop top project,complete with orig drivetrain $5000 (can also supply orig height roof posts) lots of chrome,stainless,dash parts from roadmaster 2 door I have parted out also have xtra wagon liftgate and inside painted metal trim moldings NEED 58 tailgate chrome emblem,letters
  30. 1 point
    I have a 53 rear end complete brake drums and all $200 it is to heavy to ship I live in springfield mo. call 417 751-3828 skip
  31. 1 point
    I get the feeling that even if the lens is available, it isn't good enough for Mirko. That, or he just wants to do it because he can. Dude is a monster. Period.
  32. 1 point
    Finally can contribute with a completed driving car! Set sail for first voyage over weekend. Not the 66 project I have been working on but a quick fun project. Picked this up cheap before Christmas. Yes this is the one with the back window broken out of it from an exploding can of fix-a-flat and that had sat outside for over a year and didn't run.....and the car I tried my best to get someone else to buy for two months because I didn't need or want another car. It was destiny. True diamond in the rough. About 40 hours work, $850 in tires and other parts and its running and driving beautifully. I'm sure something else will crop up needing addressed as we start to drive it more but hopefully nothing major. 59k original miles. Feels good to drive a boattail again. I forgot how long the hoods are!
  33. 1 point
    Does anyone know of a place to get a new fan belt for a 1930 Dodge DC8? I have had the car for many years and am close to trying to start it but need a fan belt as the one on it is crumbling. Any help is appreciated.
  34. 1 point
    Cars and coffee (monthly event). I haven't been to this in maybe 8 months. Seems to have decreased in variety, or maybe that's just this month. Mostly Porsche, then Corvette, then Mercedes... Put 26 miles on the car, no problem, though the puddle of trans fluid in the garage is going to need attention...
  35. 1 point
    Thanks - no original hose left in the fuel line at all. Though I did find the problem today, and it's of a similar nature. First, a few photos of the radiator re-core: - new core is a little thinner, but they said it would work as well or better. The fuel-flow problem - I had bought the fuel line for this car from Inline Tube a while back. I was frustrated with them at the time, because the way they described it, I got the idea that it was the complete tube (including a hose) from the tank to the fuel pump. But it's actually ONLY the tube along the frame. I had already cut the original tube for the electric pump setup, so I figured the new tube would replace what I had already done - so I straightened the new tube (the tube is shipped with about a 12" diameter bend in the middle so it ships in a box about half as long as the tube) out to full length. Of course, my straightening came out as a little bit wavy. Turns out, this is about where I cut out for the electric pump, so that didn't really matter at all. I got the front section of tube out by also undoing the bottom two fasteners of the inner fender, so I could push that sheetmetal forwards a little bit. I got the new piece in by straightening the most forward bend to get it through the holes in the frame, then re-bent it a little to line up better with the hose between the engine side of the tube and the frame side. I probably should have done more to make the new tube match the old one - it seems the new one has a little more bend right near the forwards end. Not a big deal - tube isn't too hard to bend. For the rear half - I looked at where that goes from outside the frame, over the top of the frame, above / behind the rear axle, and across the center of the car to the tank - and didn't even try to do this in one piece. I cut the existing tube in two just behind the rear axle. I then made the new tube match this one - the new tube's bend angles didn't exactly match what I pulled out of the car, so a little tweaking got the new tube's bends really close to the originals. I got that section mounted, then mounted up the last piece that crosses over the top of the frame. Started the car and saw MUCH more flow through the filter, more like what I expected to see. Drove the car around a little - now that fuel delivery is solved, need to go back and clean up the electric pump setup (I cut the new tube sections on the long side, just in case), and it needs work on the higher-speed function of the carb. The rear section of tube was quite clogged, closest to the tank. I should have known this - when I installed the new gas tank, I cut off a little of the frame-mounted tube because the new tank fuel level sender does not have the threaded fitting to match the original. I found that little section of tube today and looked at it - pretty well blocked. I guess I just didn't look at it before... - electric pump in the line. - electric pump with check valve in bypass. - what I've been trying to have the car draw fuel through for way too long now. - the evidence that should have told me to change the fuel line when I changed the fuel tank...
  36. 1 point
    I am in need of the bottom cushion for the rumble seat for a 1936 Dodge. Anyone have one or know what other cushion might interchange with it?
  37. 1 point
    I have a 1935 Chrysler CZ DeLuxe 8 and am wondering if anyone knows where I can get the gear shift knob restored to original. It is not just a plain knob, it has an intricate design in it and I want to keep it original. Thanks. Bob
  38. 1 point
    Dwight, Here are a couple pictures of the 1935 CZ shift knob. As you can see, the horn button and the shift knob have the same pattern for the inset. I would like to be able to get them both restored to new condition if possible. Pictures are from the internet, not mine.Thank you for your interest. Bob
  39. 1 point
    What is the best way to clean headlight reflectors that will take out any light dirt and finger prints? I have a set of NOS reflectors that I would like to make perfectly clean before installing them. Thanks.
  40. 1 point
    Thanks for that lead and the number, I will try and call him. I will also need the steering wheel for the Chrysler and my 1936 Dodge RS cp.
  41. 1 point
    Great info from all, thank you. Keiser31, that sounds like about the best approach - depending on the cost. What I have are two NOS reflectors that have a slight dullness to them and a few small smudge marks (look like fingerprint marks). I might be better off to just clean them up a bit with a damp, soft cloth and dry them before installing them.
  42. 1 point
    Some photos that my wife took of "the big drive" aka "the yard lap". Also updated the avatar based on photos of my cars. Not sure how long I'll stick with that one.
  43. 1 point
    Video: Engine start & run: http://youtu.be/G-xmP7Mqut8 Exhaust view (short): http://youtu.be/ODkIUn6ZeuA
  44. 1 point
    Thanks. A lot of time and effort went into that. I did a TON of research and with the help of the guys here it is as factory original as possible. I think it came out pretty good.:)You can get the paint pre-mixed from several different sources but I got mine from the POR-15 company. They make engine paints in the correct colors listed by year and make. I am extremely satisfied with mine. I cleaned and painted the hinges. They are a little more metal flake looking than they should be. Originally they were just bare metal color. Good thinking on not running it long. I messed up when I bought mine and tried to drive it around before cleaning everything. Big mistake. Everything got clogged up. I cleaned and resealed the gas tank, dropped and cleaned the trans. pan and oil pan(4 inches of sludge in the oil pan!), took the valve cover off and disassembled and cleaned the rocker arm assembly, cleaned under the push rod cover, replaced the push rods and lifters(could have cleaned the old ones and re-used but didn't), rebuilt the carb., had the radiator boiled out and tested, flushed out the cooling system, and replaced the water pump. And of course all the other stuff like gaskets, hoses, spark plugs and wires, points, dist. cap, etc. I got the original fuel pump rebuilt by Then and Now and also added an electric pump to help with vapor lock and priming. Electric pumps are almost a MUST on older cars. Lots of other stuff too but you can look through the 38 or so pages of my thread. Should help some. I got my trans. stuff from David Edwards at Autotran. Incredibly satisfied with the parts and with David's help. All I did to the rear end was to take the cover off, drain the old nasty whale oil, and put a new gasket on it. Here's what I use as far as fluids: Differential: 80W-90 Gear Oil Brake Fluid: DOT 3 Engine Oil: Shell Rotella 30W Dynaflow Trans: Dexron III Hydraulic Shocks:AW 32 Hydraulic/Jack Oil Here's a list I've compiled of parts vendors too. NOS, New, and Used Buick Parts and Services: Bob's Automobilia 3352 South El Pomar Templeton, CA 93465 805-434-2963 http://www.bobsautomobilia.com Classic Buicks P.O. Box 28 Dallas, OR 97338-0028 http://www.classicbuicks.com The Buick Farm PO Box 384 Clayton, DE 19938 http://www.buickfarm.com CARs, Inc. 205 Pearl St Neshanic Station, NJ 08853 908-369-3666 http://www.oldbuickparts.com Fusick Automotive Products 22 Thompson Road P.O. Box 655 East Windsor, CT 06088 (860)623-1589 http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/departments.asp?dept=189 AutoTran Antique Automatic Trans. Parts David Edwards 56 Dale Street, Dept. A Needham Heights, MA 02494-1218 781-449-2065 http://www.autotran.us/dfparts1.html Jim's Dynaflow Service Jim Hughes Perrysburg, OH 419-874-2393 Fatsco Tranmission Parts 337 ChangeBridge Road PO Box 635 Pine Brook, NJ 07058 973-227-2487 800-524-0485 For Sales Dial #2 http://www.fatsco.com/index.htm Antique Auto Supply 1225 Colorado Ln. Arlington, TX 76015 817-275-2381 http://www.antiqueautosupply.com/ Classic NOS Parts 815-399-1075 http://www.classicnosparts.com/ Classic 2 Current Fabrication, LLC Reproduction Floor Pans 24536 Capitol St. Redford, MI 48239 313-534-2886 https://c2cfabrication.com/index.html Inline Tube Brake Lines/Brake Parts 15066 Technology Drive Shelby Township, Michigan 48315 586-532-1338 http://www.inlinetube.com/ Steele Rubber Products 6180 E. NC 150 HWY Denver, NC 28037 Phone: 704-483-9343 http://www.steelerubber.com/ Kanter Auto Products 76 Monroe St Boonton, NJ 07005 1-800-526-1096 973-334-9575 http://www.kanter.com/ TA Performance Products 16167 N. 81st Street Scottsdale, AZ 85260 480-922-6807 http://www.taperformance.com Used Buick Parts: Moore's Auto Salvage 1761 Country Road Rapid City, SD 57701 605-348-4926 http://www.mooresautosalvage.com Services: Scott Speedometer Service Corp. 196-198 W. Walton Blvd. Pontiac, MI 48340 Tel: 248-338-4148 speedoshop@sbcglobal.net http://scottspeedometer.com/ Then & Now Automotive 447 Washington St Weymouth, MA. 02188 Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm EST Ljthen2@aol.com 781-335-8860 OR 781-335-1579 http://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm
  45. 1 point
    They're so reliable you don't have to rebuild! Lol. But seriously, mine was sitting for 40 years and all I had to do was clean it inside and replace seals and gaskets throughout the engine and some in the trans. I've put 4,000+ miles on it since and had no trouble. I did a tiny bit of painting too. :cool: The old straight eights are built to last!
  46. 1 point
    Thanks for the advice on the engine enamel vs. rust encapsulator. I have those couple of parts in soda soak now, but I'm going to hold off coatings until I can try media blast. With that capability, the vinegar soak may be moot for all but the smallest parts. I've already proven to myself I can shine up some pretty tiny screws and washers on the wheel. A carry-over from the aluminum work - it's a Scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder (about $70 just for the wheel, from aircraft tool suppliers). Much less intimidating (to bare fingers) than a wire brush wheel - I don't use gloves for the screws, etc. for better ability to maneuver them around. Your finger has to hit that wheel pretty hard to get zinged, and even then it only leaves a hot spot but doesn't break the skin. So pretty nice for shining up bolt heads & washers. http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3753 - Link to scotchbrite wheel. Couple of examples of bolts cleaned up on the Scotchbrite wheel. Interesting the lock washers for the coil bracket have ridges along the edge (left bolts in 2nd photo). The bolts in the right side of the 2nd photo are the thermostat housing to head bolts - those are Al crush washers, and they look like they've had some crushing. Anyone have a source for these?
  47. 1 point
    It's really not that hard when you have all of the parts laid out in order and follow along in the manual. I rebuilt mine (identical to yours) and I had never even taken a carb. off of a car at that point, let alone rebuilt one. Mine works great. One thing I wish I had done though is to have painted all of the bits and pieces before I put it back together. Eastwood offers a gold carb. paint. From my research and from what I saw on my original carb. these Carter's were plated with a gold-ish coating with silver-ish plating on the linkages. Hope you took lots of pictures. If not, let me know. I took a ton and I can send them to you if need be. Here are some scans I got somewhere of a Carter rebuilding manual for these carbs too. Maybe it will come in handy for you. Good luck! EDIT: By the way, if you do decide to take on the rebuild yourself and you want to take apart the throttle plates on the base of the carb., please let me know. I have a tip for you that could save you from making a big mistake like I did!
  48. 1 point
    Well.... Finally was able to figure out how to re-size pictures that seem to work on my system (and for my technically challenged mine). This is what I purchased for my good Limited. After a good bit of elbow grease with some metal polish, here is what they came out like. AANNNDDD....... This is what the sky looked like just after I got home right after that limb fell down! That system followed me home from South Bend and had I left an hour latter, would have been on the freeway when it hit. Fortunately no one was hurt in that storm but it took the hydro out in some areas for about two hours. Still worth the trip and enjoyed meeting great Buick People!
  49. 1 point
    They're cool Ill give them that but I would personally never own one.
  50. 1 point
    84 T-type I had 1990 to 1994 :eek: wishes