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  1. 15 points
  2. 10 points
  3. 9 points
    The car body is out of the paint booth and most of the buffing was completed when I stopped by today. The rest of the parts will probably be painted by the time I next get a chance to stop by. The photos will give you an idea, but the car actually looks better in person than in the photos.
  4. 9 points
    A fellow member sent me a PM the other day cautiously asking about some of the information from a previous thread about this car, especially the details about metal stitching. I realized that I had a lot of details there but they're all wiped and while we've talked vaguely about metal stitching elsewhere, it's still kind of like black magic to a lot of people--myself included before I saw how it worked. Shortly after the car arrived in July 2018, my son Riley and I were doing some tinkering at the shop. While the Lincoln was idling in the parking lot, Riley pointed at the side of the engine and asked, "Where's that water coming from?" With a flashlight, I was quickly able to ascertain that it was not the water pump, not a head gasket, not a hose, but a hole in the side of the cylinder block weeping coolant. Oh boy… Just a little drip on the side of the block... ...which required this much material to be removed. Also note the crack extending up to the deck surface as well as the sleeved cylinder and .030 pistons--someone in the past knew about the damage and just covered it up and ignored it. With some investigation, we found that the block had cracked sometime in the not-too-distant past and that whomever had discovered the damage had hastily covered up the hole with some epoxy and painted the engine block to hide it. Obviously that is neither a correct nor a permanent repair, and it caused me no small amount of consternation in the days that followed. A few phone calls revealed that rebuilding a Lincoln K V12 costs roughly 70% of this particular car's total value, and that's provided I could find a replacement block. The solution? I would remove the engine from the car and send it to Frank Casey in Massachusetts who is reportedly the world's finest practitioner of the arcane art of metal stitching. Yes, metal stitching. Knitting cast iron together without the use of heat. Skeptical? So was I. It works and seems like nothing short of a miracle. There's sound science behind it and metal stitching can save ancient metal parts once thought irreparably damaged and do it without the fear of future issues. Forget what you know about repairing cast iron. The following photos are from a variety of sources (including my own block) showing how the process works. I could describe it, but the process seems so much like black magic that you really have to see it with your own eyes to understand. Have a look: A fresh chunk of cast iron was stitched into place creating a permanent repair that will be invisible once the block is painted. The crack on the deck was also stitched and machined smooth. Pressure testing held 40 PSI for three days. Repair is good. How metal stitching works. Overlapping threaded studs called "laces" replace the damaged metal and lock into place using reverse-tapered threads. They can be ground, machined, painted, and finished to be completely invisible. Think this block is toast? Guess again. Amazing repairs can be achieved with metal stitching. Metal stitching can save ancient metal parts once thought irreparably damaged and do it without the fear of future issues. There are those who claim to be able to weld cast iron, but they are few and cannot guarantee success. Specialized materials and techniques, including preheating the castings in an oven and cooling them at a controlled pace are keys to success, but it is impossible to know how an ancient casting will react to the stress of welding decades after it was made. Add in oil contamination, porosity, the typically low quality of the materials used in the past, and the unpredictable nature of shattered metal, and you have a process that is far from a sure thing. Many of you have seen hackneyed work-arounds when replacement castings cannot be found, and in many cases, valuable, irreplaceable parts are scrapped simply because there are no alternatives. The stitching process is very much what it implies, a literal knitting together of metal parts using tiny holes with specialized metal fittings called locks and laces. They not only reinforce the repair, but fill the cracks permanently, rendering an air- and water-tight surface that can be machined, drilled, tapped, and stressed just as if the damage had never existed. It is as much art as science and is probably not for the do-it-yourself hobbyist without significant practice. But as you can see, the process can salvage parts that most of us would have considered scrap. I was able to keep my engine largely assembled, eliminating the expense of a full rebuild, something that would not have been possible with any of the welding processes. Once the engine is reassembled and painted, the repair will be invisible and should last another 80 years without issue.
  5. 9 points
    Love the guy with his garden hose on the balcony trying to put out the fire.
  6. 8 points
  7. 7 points
    Circa 1959, dad and mom gave up their 52 Roadmaster for a "new" 57 Roadmaster 75, purchased in Selma, AL. They took grief from some who thought the 57 was too fancy for a "negro" couple, but they loved it and cruised with pride!
  8. 7 points
  9. 7 points
    That IS good news that Newman survived; however, "not life threatening" does not necessarily mean "not life changing". I think we're all praying for a FULL recovery for Ryan Newman. Regards, Grog
  10. 7 points
  11. 7 points
    Finally got a day to paint underneath. It still needs a few touch-ups and even then won't be perfect, but it is worlds better than where it started and is looking fairly presentable so far. I hope to remount the body in a couple weeks!
  12. 7 points
    I haven’t posted anything for a while thought I would update my slow progress. Rolling chassis is complete other than bleed brakes, and inner fenders, radiator, and hoses. I then hope to take short drive. I repaired a few more places on the inner fenders and painted them first time I have ever done paintwork. From what I can tell, the engine compartment should not be gloss paint. I have also went back at rust repair, trunk is now in place 100%. I am now going along and fixing all the other rust damage. It is closer than it was but still a ways before it is back on the frame. Steve
  13. 7 points
    I'm back. Had a nice vacation to northern Sweden racing Jaguars and Land Rovers on frozen lakes. What an experience. Then, back to work, so only got bits and pieces done on the MGA over the last 4 weeks, until today. Ordered a lot of smalls from Moss over the last few weeks. Here's the carb drain tube line clip (brass colored) that I got from Moss to replace the original that the British Car shop lost (Photo 1). Got my gauges back from Bob's Speedometer. They did an excellent job of revamping my original gauges, I'd recommend them, although I won't be able to find out how well they work fro another year or two. Today, I got back to it and continued to install floorboards and misc engine bits and pieces...but ran into a big problem. I got 3 of the front floorboards installed, only to find that the transmission tunnel was positioned too high in the rear, about 1" too high. I thought I could press it down and it would work, but it was way off. I had to take up all the floorboards, gas pedal assembly, and steering column to figure out the problem and fix it. It turns out that the repro rubber grommet from Moss that go between the middle of the transmission tunnel and the chassis are WAY WAY too thick to work, so the trans tunnel was teeter-tottering about an inch too high on these grommets, so you could not get the whole thing flush with the rest of the chassis members. Another repro piece of garbage. They are twice as thick as they should be. I ended up making my own out of old garage door weather stripping. They fit perfectly after I did some cuts here and there. That wasted about 3 hours of my time. It's clear that they did not test these repro grommets, pure garbage. Here's a few photos of the floorboard work in progress (Photos 2 & 3). Have just the one large one left on the driver's side and the floorboards are complete. I also connected the parking brake and assembly in the center. Still have a few bits and pieces with the engine. I was missing a few tubes and brackets, so I'm finishing up on some of those. Also got the headlight assemblies 100% complete. I couldn't believe how many parts there were just for the headlights. Once I finish the floorboards and other engine parts, it will be time to move the chassis out, clean the garage, and swap its position with the body, then really get into that. It would be nice to have the body finished and in primer this year.
  14. 6 points
    Another great program brought to you by Walt & John. For the new members here that have never been to Hershey, they would benefit from watching! Check out their other programs as well - you will not be disappointed ! Steve https://www.4vs.org/4VS-WatchNowPage3-TheAntiqueRoadTest-21.php
  15. 6 points
    Here's one you don't see everyday: For Sale: 1954 Buick Roadmaster Convertible in Los Angeles, CA on eBay: For additional pictures and information: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-Buick-Roadmaster/303488486570 For posterity:
  16. 6 points
    So the good news is I have a set of rare headlights from a marque that was only in business for a few years and there are now only about ten now known to exist. The bad news is I have a set of rare headlights from a marque that was only in business for a few years and there are now only about ten known to exist! 🤣
  17. 6 points
    Thanks for posting @6T-FinSeeker and including the picture copies. Here also 'for posterity" are a few more pics and the description. This is a one owner, California vehicle. It was parked in a Northern California garage and put on blocks in 1958 and sat there since. The owner passed away ten years ago and we bought if from the daughter who inherited it. There is no rust on this car. Paint is mostly original and there is no evidence of any previous damage or bondo. The engine is a fresh and complete rebuild with zero miles on it with automatic transmission. Power Windows and Power Brakes. In addition, here is the list work that we did which is typical for any car that was sitting for that length of time: New Coker Classic Wide Whitewall tires, re-cored radiator, new water pump. New gas tank, fuel lines, and fuel pump. New power booster, master cylinder, brake lines and wheel cylinders. Front seat re-upholstered in Ferrari Connolly hide. The car runs, shifts great and pulls away smoothly like new. Mileage is only 53K. VIN-A1016169. Clean CA title in hand. Enjoy the way it is or bring this worthy car to the next level. Never before noticed the interior light over the back window of the 76C's, cool... The description states engine rebuild but this is definitely a '55 model year 322. I'm bettin the original had a stuck or dropped valve, what do you think @NC-car-guy Pretty decent job of front seat material choice and reupholstering to match rear original Even considering engine change and new front seat material I'd still love to own this car and maintain as is for archival purposes. If I had an extra 20 grand in my pockets I'd have to at least throw it at it and see if it stuck. @Fr. Buick you need this car. At least go take if for a spin. Let the top down, but careful, don't let the cigar ashes fly to the back seat.
  18. 6 points
    All of the prayers are obviously helping. Here he is earlier today with his daughters....
  19. 6 points
    Free wheeling was invented to scare the hell out of the drivers of the car eighty years after it was built.........they accomplished their task well!
  20. 6 points
    It has not sold because it's inexpensive. Inexpensive car buyers don't buy unless they can get an inexpensive car at an even lower price. No matter how cheap you price it, they'll want it for 50% less than that. You're trapped in a dead zone because the guys with money won't look at it and the frugal buyers know they can afford to buy it but not fix it so they want to get it extra cheap. Even if you priced it at $8000, there would be people offering you $4000. It can't be cheap enough once you cross into this realm. I have found it is often beneficial on a car like this to start with a higher price then accept the lowball offers that are in the right range. Price it at $29,900 and then when a low-end guy offers you $20, you take it. Of course, 9 out of 10 times, they'll bail out at that point because they were counting on you refusing their offer and didn't really intend to buy it, but hey, one guy might actually man up. This is a tough range with a tough car. Sorry for the frustration.
  21. 6 points
    Thanks for the nice comments on the shop. It isn't a typical shop because of what it started from and how close it is to the house. It originally was a lean-to style semi-open storage area for the full size recreational vehicles (RVs). When you looked out the back of the house you faced a 45' long wall that was 18' high!!! It was terrible. The plan when we bought the house was to convert it to my workshop and while it took a few years to get to that point, that finally happened. I only did the interior work but I had a great old-school framer who converted the lean-to to a gable roof, used much of the siding from the one wall to cover the other two walls, frame out and install windows, interior beams and a wall. I really needed something that would look like a 'bungalow' such that it would fit in with being directly behind and *very* visible from inside our house. It turned out great and I've very much enjoyed it.
  22. 6 points
    Made some more progress today, finished the floorboards (Photo 2). Had to resize the holes a little on the last floorboard and grind off a little wood on the side to make it fit. Seems they have swelled up slightly after I put on the wood treatment when I first got them prepared. I'm going to go back and spend a little time putting some seam sealer among some of the cracks and crevices between the floorboards and chassis members to ensure that it's fairly weatherproof from the bottom. The original layer of felt was really not up to the task. I used some Eastwood seam sealer between the floorboards and chassis members as a moisture barrier and sound deadener. I also spent some time installing the hydraulic clutch pipe, adding some clips to the firewall, and trying to sort out the other pipes to get them routed correctly (Photo 1). I still have some fine tuning to do. I also dug out the accelerator cable and got that partially installed whilst I clean/prep/paint some of the hardware for it. It's quite a mess in the engine bay with everything being mechanical. Glad I took a lot of photos on disassembly, it's been really helpful in piecing this back together. Almost time to get back to the bodywork. Have a good and productive President's Day!
  23. 6 points
    At the asking price, quibbles about the tires seems like a minor matter to me.
  24. 6 points
    Exactly!!! If ammunition wasn't so expensive, I would've assassinated at least a dozen menu-overloaded touch screens by now. I am, however, losing some tooth enamel from grinding my teeth in frustration when confronted by all of these necessary "conveniences". I've also found that "smackin' it upside the head" doesn't work with touch screens. Ah well, maybe that's just me. Cheers, Grog
  25. 5 points
    Former Buicktown member, Brian, is selling his '55 Buick Super due to health issues. He is the third owner of the car which he purchased from southern California in 2004. Original owner died in 1982, years later his widow sold the car to her nephew, and Brian bought it from him. He has all of the original documentation for the car. This is a really straight Buick. Using Haggertys valuation guide, it is a strong #2, close to a #1. Millage shows 68,880. Runs and drives great. In addition to the car, Brian had purchased another '55 for spare parts, and has spare engine, transmission, etc. that is included with the car if wanted. Car is located Flint, Michigan. Asking price is $26,000. For more information, contact the owner, Brian: home phone 810-732-5011, or cell 810-730-4856.
  26. 5 points
    Just had to post this comparison of my left front wheel. First photo is the day after I brought the car home from Florida. The tire was partially off the rim so while driving up the interstate, the wind actually got under the tire and was beginning to pull it off the rim. We had to stop and put duct tape on the tire to keep it on in a driving rainstorm. What fun 🤪
  27. 5 points
    Seen these little scanners mounted on your local police cars? Those are license plate scanners, specifically designed to read license plates at speed in all directions, up to 100 yards away. Cruise through a parking lot and they already know who's there. On the road, it's collecting data on who is out driving. They know when you buy groceries and where. They know where your girlfriend's house is. Car in the same place more than two or three days in a row? Logged and marked for follow-up. And if a license plate with a warrant attached shows up, BOOM! RED ALERT! As the victim of identity theft with multiple arrest warrants in my name (that I didn't earn, obviously) when these things showed up about five years ago my life got exponentially more miserable on the road. I went from being pulled over about once every five or six months when a cop was behind me at a red light and ran my plates to being pulled over twice a week. Those things would read my plate, the warrant(s) would pop up, and the cop would spring into action. Older cops would usually listen, look at the paperwork I provided, and understand that I'm not the guy they're looking for. If it was a young guy, I knew I was screwed--he was going to be a hero. I can't tell you how many times a 23-year-old officer took my folder of documentation, threw it back into the car, and said, "Tell it to the judge." I've been strip searched, I've had a panicky little rookie call in reinforcements with body armor and assault gear, I've been handcuffed more times than a crack dealer, and fifteen years ago, I even had my Mustang left by the side of the road WITH THE KEYS IN IT while they took me to the station for a few hours--I can't believe it was still there when I got back. My old cars have YOM plates that I never bothered to register. I'd rather risk whatever ticket I'd get for a bad plate rather than connecting those plates with my name. I can only imagine what the cops would do if they impounded the '29 Cadillac. Even putting all my cars in Melanie's name only slowed it down for a little while, but now she gets pulled over because she's a "known associate" thanks to this database and because our cars are frequently spotted together in our parking lot at work, where cruisers regularly drive through diligently collecting their data. I run a dealer plate now, which seems to have slowed it down, but if a cop is bored it still pops up as a connection in their database and they sometimes spring into action. The last guy came up to my window with his gun out--for Pete's sake, I'm a middle-aged guy in a station wagon talking about superheros with my 11-year-old son, not some desperado. It's embarrassing. They ARE watching. They ARE tracking. And if I could get a plate that was unreadable, I'd do it in a heartbeat. I see this "issue" as a feature, not a bug.
  28. 5 points
    Well, we got on the road for the first time! grill is back on, brakes bled, transmission seems pretty responsive... after nearly a whole other gallon of ATF. I’ve run flex hose to the trunk and tied a five gallon can in there. The tank has been sealed on the inside, but has several gallons of very very old gas in it. So what does one do with old gas? I had the original temp sender and gauge hooked up and it worked when the engine almost over heated when badly timed, but after a new thermostat it barely registered after 8 or so minutes of idling... so I put a mechanical one on, turns out the engine just doesn’t get too hot. I won’t take that as a bad thing for now. I will have to repair floor pans. However, the old bank account is running on E right now. First thing after I get some cash will be a 6v alternator painted black.
  29. 5 points
    We've been going since 1968 and my wife and I always wait for when that voice wants a car moved and calls it a "vee-hickle". Love it! I'm a NY Yankee fan and it reminds me of long time Yankee Stadium announcer Bob Shepard. It's funny how you can relate a voice to an event.
  30. 5 points
    I found this 1904 Locomobile in the porch of a farmhouse out in the country about 10 years ago.
  31. 5 points
    The strangest place I found some cars was in my garage...it has been awhile since I have been able to go in there and I almost forgot I had them! 🙂 That should never happen but.....
  32. 5 points
  33. 5 points
    Next was the removal of the crankshaft as shown.First, I only removed three main bearing caps (#2, #3 and #4) as shown by removing the 2 bolts at each of them as shown.Each cap is numbered consecutively (#1 being at the front of engine) and has an arrow that points to the front of the engine. I am not going to give advice on how to remove the caps because I struggled with this without the cap popping off uncontrollably. Maybe one of you could school me here... @EmTee, @avgwarhawk, @old-tank, @MrEarl, @NC-car-guy, @RivNut. I left the #1 cap and most rear cap (not numbered) in place, only unscrewing those bolts about half way. I did this because the rear cap was too big and difficult to remove like the other smaller caps. I then turned the engine over so that the weight of the crank rested totally on the 2 remaining caps. The idea was to use the weight of the crank to push the much bigger rear cap off of the engine (without letting the crank fall). I then took a rubber mallet and tapped down on the rear end of the crank, dislodging the rear cap in the process. I then flipped the engine back over and I was able to pull off the rear cap without much of a problem. The #1 cap was also removed. After all caps are removed, grab both ends of the crank and carefully lift it up and out of the engine block. Be sure to also remove the other halves of the main bearings. Showing the site of removal.Showing the crankshaft removed from engine.Overall, moderate task (only because removing the main bearing caps was a bit of a challenge).
  34. 5 points
    No need to reinvent the wheel where (no pun intended). Just use #285 Rebuilders Cast Finish Gray or Seymour Cast Blast gray. Both are nearly identical and are an excellent match for the 65/66 and early 67 wheels. even if you did find a formula for mixing the paint there will be variation due to the constant changing of ingredients to meet EPA regulations and availability.
  35. 5 points
    Too many people who wish to impress others with their limited knowledge of things.........if you want a multi cylinder starter car that’s in the CCCA world, where in the HELL can you find anything better for the money? NO WHERE! The problem is too many internet experts that have no clue at what they are talking about...............anyone who has an interest in this type of automobile would be foolish not to take a long hard look at this car. I do NOT know the seller, and have never inspected the car.......just 40 years of dealing with great cars is where I am coming from. Ed
  36. 5 points
    Andy, Welcome. You came to the right place. There is a lot of pot metal in these cars that has to be addressed. The ignition switch is one of them. I am going to post my new Pre War Buick Owners guide. I have lots of other technical documents already posted so try a search but don't be afraid to ask if you don't find what you are looking for. Please post some pictures when you have time. Hugh New Buick Owners Guide & Prewar Starting guide. Hugh Leidlein 12-22-19 C Welcome to Buick ownership. Here are some tips to get you started. The following books are necessary for Pre war Buick Ownership. They come based on 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder models prior to 1925, or for Standard or Master 1925 and up. Basically around 115” wheelbase is the smaller Buick series and 120 to 128” wheelbase is the larger Buick series. The Buick Heritage Alliance sells the following books. The quality of the copies is only “fair” in many cases. This may work for some people, depending on how many pieces your car is missing or needing. I suggest buying an original book of parts if you can find it due to the better print quality. Also try Faxon. 1) The “Book of Parts” for your year. 2) The “Shop Manual” for your year 3) The “reference book” for your year (of lesser importance if you can find a shop manual). It is helpful in many cases to obtain copies of the parts books for 1 or 2 years before and after your model year. Many times there is additional information or photos that will help with your understanding. Note: Only a handful of parts used on a 4 cylinder model fit a 6 cylinder model. Same with so few Standard parts will fit a Master. The 4 cylinder line became the Standard, and the 6 cylinder line became the Master so there is interchangeability in that order. Parts interchange is closest based on wheelbase of the models There is also available a big book of parts “Buick Master Parts List 1916-1932”. This 3” thick book provides a listing of the years and models for each part. You will have better luck finding a part knowing it’s year and model range rather than just looking for a single year. This book does not have a lot of pictures and will not be a good substitute for the book of parts for your year, but I refer to this book frequently. Some find it of little use - based on how many parts they are missing. There are almost zero “exploded views” of parts, so take a lot of photos and notes during disassembly. ------------ Precautions------ THESE ARE NOT MODERN ENGINES------Damage can occur. The first order is usually to see if the engine will turn over. Do the following first. 1) Pull the Water pump hoses The water pump is on the side of the motor. The issue is that the camshaft gear is fiber on 1924-1928 Buick 6 cylinders, and it drives the waterpump. If the water pump is frozen or drags, it will destroy the timing gear teeth. Parts will fall in the engine. The camshaft gears are expensive and new gears are not of the same quality as the originals. The first order of business should be to remove the water pump hoses to ensure the pump rotates on the shaft. Without the hoses, it should rotate 180 degrees. Note that some earlier models have a water pump housing bolt that also needs to be removed. Water pump shafts are steel unless a recent replacement to stainless. The water pump bearings are bronze. If the antifreeze was not cared for, rust on the WP shaft could wear the bronze bearings out quickly. The WP seal is graphite packing. The wear surface should be smooth and the packing should only be tight enough to prevent major leaks of the waterpump. It should drip a little bit here and there. If it does not, the packing is too tight. Most people replace the shaft with a stainless steel shaft. 2) Change the oil (and filter if it has one). Strongly consider dropping the oil pan as well. An oil change is probably long overdue. Don’t cut corners and skip dropping the pan. Pre 1926 cars had no oil filter. Non detergent oil was used for years, and there is likely a lot of sludge in the oil pan. I have seen the oil pick up screens clogged from sludge, and this will starve the engine and could suck the screen in. Bob’s Automobilia or Olsons Gaskets has an oil pan gasket set. This is not a hard job. 3) Oil the Cylinders Pull the spark plugs, put some oil in the cylinders. If penetrating oil or Marvel mystery oil was used in the cylinders, you must follow it with regular oil once the engine begins to turn. 4) Pull the valve cover. Squirt oil on the rocker assembly. Bump the rockers with a rubber mallet over the valve springs to ensure that all the valves move. Drip oil on the valve stems if you can. 5) Pull the engine side covers. Squirt oil on the cam shaft rollers (and cam bearings if you can get to them). After doing the above 5 items, you could rotate the motor, even crank it with the starter. If the engine is or was frozen, let the cylinders soak for at least a week in penetrating lube. It is best to try to unstick a frozen engine from the flywheel end and not the hand crank end. The handcrank is not that strong. Put the transmission in 1st gear. Use 4 people (2 in front and 2 at the back) to rock the car back and forth in an effort to free the pistons. Parts frozen by rust come apart easier if you work the frozen part back and forth rather than continually forcing the rotation thru the rust. Reversing rotation allows some rust to move out of compression between the parts. Note that the pistons are removed only from the bottom of the engine on early Buick motors. If you do get the engine to rotate, strongly consider pulling the pistons out the bottom and cleaning the cylinder walls and the ring grooves and doing an inspection - prior to reinstalling and firing the engine. It would be great to get a compression tester. Around 60 lbs pressure in each cylinder is a good motor. There should be less than 10% deviation in each cylinder. Spark plug adapters are available from Ford Model A parts suppliers. Cranking the motor is a good thing to check off the list. A compression test gives a good check on the health of the motor. Preparing for starting – knowing that the motor turns over: 1) Pull the carburetor. a) Clean out the fuel bowl. b) Use carburetor cleaner to ensure all internal passages blow thru. c) Consider installing a Nitrolphyl float – available from Bob’s Automobilia or Gregg Lange. d) Check that the air valve lays smooth against the carburetor inside diameter and that there is a narrow gap at the base of the air valve. You may need to file the pot metal venturi block. There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Marvel Carburetor Rebuilding”. 2) Check that the exhaust manifold valve (on the front end of the exhaust manifold) is open. There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Buick Exhaust valve removal”. 3) Rebuild the distributor. The distributor should rotate by the advance levers on the steering column. Several years of distributors were pot metal and the distributor housing will grow and freeze into the generator housing. Replace with a steel Buick distributor from other years. Do not force the movement as there are potmetal gears at the base of the steering column that are not that strong. There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Distributor Replacement”. Also search for “Distributor rebuilding”. 4) Rebuild the Water pump. (see the forum for upgrades to the seals and shaft). There are AACA forum posts on this – search using the quote “Water Pump Rebuilding”. 5) The fan hub is an old design that requires frequent oiling and will leak oil all over the motor. Replace it with a sealed bearing hub – Several suppliers for this. Search the AACA Forum “fan hub replacement”. 6) Rebuild the vacuum tank and gas tank * I prefer to do the “fuel supply” system later as there is a lot to this. For a first start, I hang a 1 quart used lawnmower tank and feed the carburetor with this from a reinforced rubber fuel hose, or just pour gas in the vacuum tank. It will hold about a quart. Search the AACA Forum “vacuum tank rebuilding”. Other notes: Oil and grease is usually long overdue for removing the old and installing new (and not just installing new.) Clean out as much of the old as you can first. Engines that have laid dormant for decades may have significant rust in the engine block. You do not want this in your honeycomb radiator as they cannot be rodded out. Consider installing a Gano filter into the top radiator hose to catch sediment and keep rust out of the radiator. Also consider removing the engine freeze plugs and cleaning any rust out of the block, or at least reverse flushing out the engine water jacket with water and without radiator hoses just prior to start up. The firing order is 142635. (Reverse of a modern engine).
  37. 5 points
    Nice work! Here's the one my wife had made for me (I'm also Matt and also turned 50 this year) two weeks ago. LOL! You can see which car's grille it was obviously designed to resemble...
  38. 5 points
  39. 4 points
    If just one headlight bulb survived they'll build an all-new F40 from it and Ferrari Classiche will certify it as correct and original.
  40. 4 points
    More green!!!! Only one more part needs green paint that I can think of.
  41. 4 points
    Very little. Here are a few other price guides to reference, and you'll note that they rarely agree with one another: http://caaarguide.com/makeandmodel.html https://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/Manufacturers?from=classic http://www.collectorcarmarket.com/ https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/search/auto Price is really all that matters, and you need to remember that price guides are based on a long history. With values falling in many sectors of the hobby, the price guides can't possibly adjust fast enough on most cars simply because the sample size is too small. Mustangs, Corvettes, even Model As, which change hands publicly and frequently are relatively easy to value, but anything unusual is a guess at best. It's probably safe to assume that current values are 10-20% less than you think and what the price guides say. There's a market correction going on right now, but it's happening so slowly almost nobody has noticed. For example, 1957 Chevy Bel Air convertibles, which were formerly blue-chip cars, have lost 40% in the last 7 or 8 years. That's significant, but since it wasn't an overnight "crash" nobody really noticed. Remember when they were easy $100K cars? Look around now--all the '57 Chevy ragtops you want for $60 grand. That's substantial and it's happening at every level to every kind of car except the very top.
  42. 4 points
    The ideal solution would be to find a stud welder, see if someone has one you can borrow. Then, it's just a one step, quick, process to put either the special nuts you have or a threaded stud on the back of the frame. Some body shops use them for help in dent removal, spot weld a stud in the middle of a dent and pull it out, then grind off stud. I was involved in the construction of a food plant, with thousands of feet of stainless conveyor, and the stud welder for putting an attachment point wherever one wished on the conveyor was invaluable.
  43. 4 points
  44. 4 points
    I think that he's casting a spell to make it run and sell - Can anyone make out what else is in the barn?
  45. 4 points
    Starting off the Sunday with a nice day heading to about 75. Quick trip down to Tractor Supply in search of some straight SAE 10w to change the transmission oil in the 50 Chrysler.
  46. 4 points
    Hello everybody ! A friend of mine just bought a Chrysler Royal C16 Coupe Convertible from 1937 ! maybe it’s the only one in France ! There is a lot of work and we are looking after a club, and everything who can help us. (new and used parts, workshop manual, tips etc). Anything you can do for help us will be welcome. We are counting on your solidarity to be able to restore this magnificent car ! Thank you in advance, hello from France !!
  47. 4 points
    Ok since this thread IS about pictures, I'll get us back on track with a shameless photo or two of my '65.
  48. 4 points
    Pre war parts drying up???? Yup, since the mid seventies. I still find the impossible stuff..........it just takes more work. In some ways, I think it’s getting easier with electronic and social media.
  49. 4 points
    My Hupp has a factory overdrive called Hupp Super Drive. This car has 4 wheel hydraulic brakes 12 in x 2 1/4 in. and loves 55 to 65 Mph. The members of the Hupp club call it the White Tornado.
  50. 4 points
    Drove all the way from the Mass, N.Y. border all the way to Clear Lake, California a number of years back to get a 1915 Buick C-37 parts car. Glad I went myself as some of the parts and original tools that were laying on and around it I'm sure would have been lost if I hired an open car hauler. Dandy Dave!