Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    It's about to go down! We scheduled to have 2 trees removed from the backyard this coming Tuesday. Tomorrow, we go in to iron out the details on a contract to build a garage. I have to maintain a strict budget to keep my Wife comfortable. I am not getting some of the things I wanted, but I am not going to complain. I am very thankful and I will make it work for me. I will post progress in my other thread https://forums.aaca.org/topic/291868-chavis-garage/.
  2. 5 points
    I almost always recommend staying with the original electrical system in a car. Now that's not due to my purist point of view, because I agree that driving is the point and whatever gets you on the road is OK with me. I say it simply because few 12-volt conversions actually make sense. Most guys assume that 6-volt systems are inferior and there's a persistent myth that old cars were always hard to start and that changed when 12-volt systems were introduced. Not true, but I bet if you ask 10 guys at any local cruise night about 6-volt electrical systems, you will get 10 guys telling you that they're crap. So part one of the problem is this myth that 6 volts doesn't work. That's BS, but persistent myths in this hobby are not a new thing. Now that I've had, oh, 3500 cars pass through my hands, I have come to realize that trying to out-smart the factory engineers is a dicey proposition. At best you get something that works, but it is merely one guy's idea of how it should work. If it works, that's fine. But if it doesn't work or needs replacement parts, it can be extremely difficult to diagnose the problem and figure out what parts that one guy in his home garage used to do his work. Repairs become significantly more difficult at that point because the factory shop manual, with its detailed diagnostic procedures, is completely worthless. Now you've got to figure it out for yourself without the assistance of the really smart guys who built the thing in the first place. You're pretty much stuck with us yahoos on the internet shooting darts in the dark. I know I've mentioned the 1946 Mercury convertible I had where the previous owner had converted it to 12 volts. It worked fine except the entire car was wired using red 12-gauge wire. EVERYTHING. Should something go wrong with that car, how the heck do you fix it? It worked, but it was a recipe for nightmares for future owners and had a significant impact on the car's marketability and value. Nobody wanted to touch that thing, even though it was ostensibly operational. The conversion can be done without a lot of difficulty, but it's never as easy as it seems and it never really solves any problems without adding a bunch of new ones. Everything electrical in the car will stop working and will need to be altered somehow. Most guys don't bother making the original gauges work and just slap some Summit Racing gauges under the dash and call it done. They figure they only drive in the summer so they don't need the heater or defroster fans to work. Clocks never work anyway, so they skip that, too. They wire up a modern stereo system in the glove box and cut holes in the doors or side panels for speakers or remove the original radio and chop up the dash to make a new one fit. I guess that's all fine and dandy for a car you're going to just drive, but it always screams amateur workmanship and laziness and ultimately the car probably doesn't drive any differently. And the next guy is going to look at your workmanship and strt discounting the car immediately. What most folks don't seem to realize is that most of the problems people have with 6-volt electrical systems can be fixed with cheap, easy repairs: good battery cables, clean grounds, strong battery, rebuilt starter, healthy ignition components. I find that more often than not, a 12-volt conversion is used as a band-aid for sub-standard electrical components throughout the car and the guy doing the work figures it's junk rather than solving the actual problem. There's that myth again. So while I'm not necessarily a purist, I am practical. I am of the opinion that making the original equipment work properly is not only better for values, but also for serviceability and functionality, and simple repairs will typically cost less than a 12-volt "conversion." You can change and upgrade and alter all the parts that need to be changed and upgraded for 12 volts, or you can simply use what's already there and save time and money without taking any steps backwards in terms of service or functionality.
  3. 4 points
    Modern photo but related to the story I just posted above. While looking for Pierce Arrow cars in 1971 & 1972 we looked at two cars in a trucking repair yard along the Massachusetts Turnpike in Chicopee Mass. There under tarps were two cars a 1932 Pierce Arrow Series 54 Sport Coupe..........purchased out of a junkyard in 1952 and left outside for about 20 years total from thr looks of it, and a 1932 Pierce Series 54 Club Broughm that was very, very rough. This was around June of 1972. Some 40 years later I would see an ad in Hemmings for a 1932 Coupe for sale in the Boston area in October 2009. I took off and quickly made a purchase of a car that I was not looking to purchase four hours earlier.......I was trying to buy a 1904 Knox at the time. Anyways, the Pierce was purchased, and only after going through the paperwork that came with the car did I realize from photos taken in 1972 it was the car my father and I looked at all the years before.
  4. 4 points
    Back in September of 1971, the car was listed for sale in Hemmings, along with a PII and another Pierce........a 1931 Model 42 D/C. The location..........three miles from my boyhood home in Ludlow Mass. The 1930 Dietrich was purchased by a Pierce Arrow Society President from Dallas Texas........the car next to it, the Series 42 was purchased by my father while I was with him at the age of 5 1/2. I clearly remember the day, and about twenty years later became friends with the owner I had met that day as a little boy. The next month I went to my first Hershey Fall Meet. The car currently is owned by a gentleman who is doing a total frame off resurrection of the very rough car. Last I knew it was in paint and waiting for upholstery. It’s still in Texas. Interestingly, the seller of all three cars is 99 years old, still doing well, and has the same Model T and 1931 Cadillac V-12 touring that I also saw that day; and he was driving them as of two years ago.. Several weeks later, we went back and bought a 1930 Pierce Series B sedan.......a running and driving original car we bought for parts. Later we sold the parted out car where it changed hands twice over thirty years, and now is a 100 point car on Long Island. Fun memories from fifty years ago. Sale Prices at the time........we’re VERY High......... 1930 Pierce Dietrich was 5500.00 for a basket case. 1931 Series 42 D/C 7500.00 solid and complete but partially disassembled. 1930 Pierce Series B nice driving barn find 1200.00 In 1986 I sold a set of very rare wheels that came with our Series 42 for 10k, thus paying for the entire car and and additional 33 percent of the sales price 15 years later. I still have the Series 42 D/C today.
  5. 4 points
    Today, I received the running board moulding clips. The clips I got were univeral moulding clips so I had to cut them all to fit the moulding. https://bobsautomobilia.com/hardware/trim-to-fit-moulding-fastener.-.-mc-2332/ I then re-drilled 10 holes in each running board edge and installed both running board mouldings with the clips, a flat washer, a lockwasher, and a nut. The addition of the mouldings add a lot to the look of the running boards.
  6. 4 points
    5th and final flush. Water running clear. Installed 160 thermostat. Stayed under the N the whole drive to foodlion...about 3 miles. at the stoplight just before the store it started at the climb just a little bit above the N. when I parked water neck was reading 209.
  7. 4 points
    Dropped over to the exhaust guy yesterday and did a number of things. First job ( while up on a hoist....I have to get one of these ! ) was to drop the fuel tank. Drained it and undid the retaining straps. Couldn't work out why it wouldn't drop and then realised that the filler neck, grommet etc was still in place.....rookie mistake ! Sorted that out and finally got it removed. It became quite apparent of the problem. While the tank itself is in good order the sleeve that holds the filler tube was cracked most of the way around hence the leaking of fuel when the car was being transported. Found a place locally to where I was that actually makes and repairs long range fuel tanks. They will have it repaired in a week or so. Second problem was a leaking rear right side brake cylinder or so I thought. The leak appeared to be coming from the brake line where it goes into the banjo fitting rather than the cylinder. I tightened it up a bit and it continued to turn. Closer inspection I found that there was a crack in the banjo fitting. I'll source another one and then fix it. I'll have to remove the backing plate as the brake fluid has caused a bit of havoc with the paint. The exhaust guy took all the bracket fittings home and blaster and coated them. When I arrived he had them bolted in place and the exhaust system had been delivered. He couldn't get a round muffler so we opted for one as close as we could get which in the end actually sat up a bit higher. I decided on stainless steel piping so it wont rust and he buffed the end to give the impression of a chrome tip. He made up the rubber woven supports that take up the vibration in the brackets and the end result was that it is extremely sturdy. Another job off the list. I've arranged for it to be picked up next Tuesday and brought home. I'll have to refit the fuel tank and other items when she gets home. Cheers Ian
  8. 4 points
    After adding the insulation I cleaned up the old original floor mat. I used some Mr. Clean in hot water, a scrub brush, toothbrush and lots of elbow grease and rags, it actually cleaned up pretty well. Not easy getting that up and over the shift lever but I got it in and situated with no additional damage, it lays down quite well over the aluminum. I put all the tools away and dusted off the car then I took it for a ride this morning. The suspension feel is definitely improved, still stiff but less bouncy and a more dampened feel probably due to filling up the shocks. Of course driving this car is a new experience for me anyway due to its tiny size and short wheelbase, quite a change from a 34 Packard! With the floor coverings in place it is also noticeably quieter especially the gear whine from the transmission. It's nice to be done with a checklist and actually have it all work out.
  9. 3 points
    Very nice Ted.... great trucks ! Ours had the 350 engine in it with the automatic, truck never failed me. Steve
  10. 3 points
    Hey Steve, we have a lot love for the same truck. My 83’ that I rotisserie restored. It has a hard and soft top but Michelle prefers the soft top down.
  11. 3 points
    Posting for a local car club friend. $7900 The car is located in Suffolk County, Long Island: 110 Horsepower 4 speed 45,000 original miles Clean, dry, well cared for Corvair, driven daily All the annoying Corvair issues have been addressed Call Ken at 631-880-8489
  12. 2 points
    Here's a better look at the Packard in its summer and winter bodies. When people bought an expensive car such as a Packard, they planned on using it year round. Dealers offered the body swap and storage services to those upscale customers.
  13. 2 points
    From far north Michigan......... guy purchased a house, former owner died and airs wanted it and the contents gone. The car was in the garage and no one wanted and old 1984 Buick. Look what they got with the home purchase.
  14. 2 points
    That's the type of car that people will want one day, so hopefully the new owners will care for it as a future desirable. The first car I bought new after a couple of years out of college was a 1978 Regal, which was a very nice car indeed. Wish I had kept it, but in those days I changed cars more often than my underwear.
  15. 2 points
    Hello Jeff, Tim did not recognize the carburetor, but he thinks its 1908-ish.That is because of the glass tube on de side of the bowl. He asked a friend who is a carburetor dealer, it tuned out that even he had no idea what carburetor it is. Tim advised me to use a Holley NH carburetor at first, and after the engine runs OK some time, use the Schebler model D. He told me that a lot of owners of 1 and 2 cylinder cars use the Holley NH carburetor. It seems a sound advice and I am grateful for it. When I bought the Cleveland a Holley carburetor came with it. To restore the NH carburetor I ordered the spare parts at Lang's model T parts. Jeff thank you for your help to ask Tim for his opinion, Tim set me on the right direction. Regards, Harm
  16. 2 points
    I feel a bit intimidiating to post anything to this thread, so many movie stars with their classic cars! However, in the pre-Hollywood times German and Danish melodramas ruled the silver screen. In 1917 film star Valdemar Psilander was drivning a three year old Bug with similar Yankee clover-leaf body by Durr with Copenhagen issued licence plate K 40 in the film Kaerlighedes-Vaeddmaalet: www.bugattibuilder.com/photo/displayimage.php?pos=-38098
  17. 2 points
    If you cannot test the cap, replace it. My 55's with factory a/c use a 13# cap; l had a defective one that ruptured a radiator. Or test with a7# cap or other known good cap.
  18. 2 points
    I had new rear Eaton Springs installed today. They give The Aqua Zephyr a much needed ~2" lift to the rear end bringing it back to stock height. The visual change is minor but it sits more level (leveler? 🤣) now.
  19. 2 points
    I did not know that information Ted... I think that they are cool looking trucks, we had a old Dodge that we used in the Fire Service... Civil Defense donated it to our Fire Company, great truck, it would go anywhere ... I mean anywhere !! lol Oh, the '90 GMC was my "office" ..... loved that truck !
  20. 2 points
    Hello Harm, what did Tim M. have to offer for an opinion?
  21. 2 points
    Here you go. Might want to call your car hauler guy for pick up. https://prescott.craigslist.org/cto/d/paulden-1966-deuce-wd/7129763471.html
  22. 2 points
    For Sale on Craigslist 1955 Lincoln Capri 2-Door Hardtop Coupe - $14,000 - Call Richard: (920) 428-1214 Link: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/hortonville-1955-lincoln-capri/7135381319.html Seller's Description: Power Brakes, Power Steering, Power Seats and also Power Windows 371 Lincoln engine automatic and a Oklahoma car. We must sell 14,000 or best offer. Please CALL NO NOT TEXT HE IS 80 YEARS OLD AND DON'T KNOW HOW TO TEXT 1-920-428-1214
  23. 2 points
    Steve, it won’t help. I know from experience. I actually used to buy, restore/repair 6x6s and sell them. Back in the 80’s and fuel oil was expensive, everyone here in New England burned wood. Many owned their own land and wanted trucks to get it with. I had an “in” with a military junk yard and he purchased a ton of 51-56’ gmc M135 andM211 6x6 trucks. The 135s were 6 wheeled with one 11x20 ND tire on each hub and the 211 was a 10 wheeler with 10x20s mounted. These particular trucks sold cheap because they were automatic trans and most had no mileage with bad transmissions. These trucks actually used the Oldsmobile 4 speed automatic trans but with a 4 to1 reduction tail housing for low range. Because the trans used a main shaft governor, shifting was based on the input RPM of the shaft. This meant there was no way to prevent up shifts or down shifts and convoy speed was right at the speed the trans would shift from one band to one clutch drum. I learned to make a manual valve body, replace clutches and failed lip seals with new improved ones so I could sell bomb proof all wheel drive trucks with low miles and no rust or rot for cheap money. I sold a ton of them and drove them all over. I literally had people cut me off in intersections all the time like the couldn’t even see me i I couldn’t understand why. I realize is people do see them, they just feel your going slow and they can beat you. There were many times if it wasn’t for six big ass tires and really great brakes, they would have found out different! Sorry for all that useless trivia on army trucks but again, I think it’s pretty cool how they ran an Olds trans in them. Not sure if many also realize that Olds supplied Olds motors for many of their early truck years too, so they already had a long relationship before the army truck era.
  24. 2 points
    Having to check out yourself and then have an employee standing at the door to check my receipt; that absolutely grinds my gears! I refuse to show my receipt: if you don't trust me than have an employee scan the items.
  25. 2 points
  26. 2 points
    I'll try driving to work tomorrow...thats 10 miles. We'll see.
  27. 2 points
    Today saw the two-cone assembly welded to the exhaust manifold. To do that, I had to un-mount the carburetors that I had just installed and plumbed in, but it had to be done. A little hammer-and-dolly work was required to round out the megaphone but eventually the smaller cone lined up with the megaphone. I used a couple of big welding magnets to hold the alignment while I tacked with the TIG around the perimeter. It took me a couple of hours to weld the entire joint, grind it down, then go back and fill the pin holes. The sun was shining bright today, so I could stare into the end of the cones and see tiny lights coming through the holes. Of course, those were where the welding was poor already and the metal was thin, so trying to put another bead on top just made the molten metal drop through. Welding is much easier when you can get to both sides, but I couldn't reach that far into the pipe. Maybe in retrospect, I should have welded the first cone to the manifold because I could have reached in the 3 or 4 inches to weld on the back side of the seam. Then I could have done the same for the second cone. Live and learn! I did eventually fill all of the pinholes. Now the exhaust manifold is complete, the welds ground down and polished a bit, remounted on the block, and the carburetors back in place. The 4" pipe slides nicely over the mating cone, makes a pretty tight joint. I ordered a bunch of 3/8-16 rivet nuts so I can put one in the front of the pipe to secure it to the manifold. A second one will go by the rear axle where there is a support attached to the chassis. While shopping for these online, it became clear there are cheap copies of rivet nuts and the good ones. The cheap copies go into 13mm/.512" holes, the good ones go in 1/2" holes. I don't have the $100 setting tool for the rivet nuts, but a 3/8-16 bolt, nut, and washer will work just fine for installing them. I may need to add some baffles in the pipe to dampen the worst of the noise when I take the car in for its Massachusetts inspection, will mount those with some more rivet nuts so I can pull them out for real noise-making. The two cones welded to the exhaust manifold. The main pipe slid onto the cones. Note the nice fit of the pipe on the cone. Not the greatest welding artwork, but it will do. The 6 ft long pipe mated to the cone but not yet secured.
  28. 2 points
    The intake manifold is in place. Now, it's on to the water pump/starter/generator shaft. That is going to take a bit of doing, so likely won't be done for a few days. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  29. 2 points
    Now that is a shame! You don't see too many attractive Pierce Arrows like that. HeHe.
  30. 2 points
    That's a good idea but I'm not sure how I'd do it. Bolting the sump to the table of the mill with the flange up would be a problem. I do have an idea but I'm not certain it would be rigid enough to use a ball end milling cutter on. I'll give it a try though...if it looks secure I may be able to do it. I also wonder about putting a radius on the groove at the ends but perhaps a square corner and using "o" ring material - which is available in rolls, would do.
  31. 2 points
    What a dunce! I sure can make mistakes! Usually when I am done using the car I will use the battery disconnect switch after it is parked in the garage. But I forgot to disconnect the battery last night AND I forgot to turn off the radio too. I was so surprised when it spun over with no problem this morning despite my neglect. Gotta love those great big truck batteries! Anyway here it is after it's AM bath!
  32. 2 points
    Never buy the first model year of a new model or redesigned model of car or truck was common at one time. The thought was it would take one or two model year production runs and dealer repair feedback to find all the bugs In the new design. I feel that logic still applies today.
  33. 2 points
    What kind of driving produces those temperatures? Is there a temperature drop between the upper and lower tanks? How many miles on the rebuild? New engines produce lots of heat due to friction of components not fully broken-in. My convertible ran hot like that for 1500 miles and all I did was hone the cylinders and install new piston rings. I was about to pull the heads, but decided first to beat on it....mostly full throttle accelerations for 50 miles and 1/2 tank of gas.
  34. 2 points
    Hello Alan, Got a bit distracted by "house and farm" work. But in between I managed to spend a bit of time on the Cleveland. Well the carburetor, got some PM's but no one knows what it is, the mystery continues... Regards, Harm
  35. 2 points
    Last days I got distracted from the Cleveland, lots of small tings to do around the house. We finished the paving of the patio. We had a very nice temperature last days 82F (28C), but we could use some rain. It has not rained since 15 March, so the grass is turning yellow and brown. About the carburetor, I got some PM's, but nobody knows what carburetor it is. I got some good advice from a knowledgeable owner of one and two cylinder cars. He advised me to use a Ford HN carburetor ( a late one 1920 - 1926), they are simple and reliable, after you know the behavior and particularities of the Cleveland engine switch to a Schebler model D. The Schebler is a very good carburetor and period correct. So that is the advice I will follow. When I bought the Cleveland, a restorable NH carburetor was included in the pile of parts, I could not understand, why. But now I know. Yesterday I ordered spare parts at Lang's. The Schebler is no problem, I have one with the guillotine control, not with the butterfly. As far as I can see, my Schebler is in a good condition. No missing parts and no bend levers, only the needle valve control broke, but that an easy repair. Schebler model D, patented 1902 Yesterday and today, I did a lot of striping, the chassis, springs and front and rear axle are striped now. See pictures below. Spring striping process, picture 1. Spring striping process, picture 2. In between, I turned the period correct square head spring clip bolts and nuts. No metric treads on this car, just UNC and some UNF, mostly UNC thread is used. Regards, Harm
  36. 2 points
    That's not a strange habit. That's not wanting to provide free advertising. Now, if the dealer want's to PAY me for that advertising, that's a different issue. And frankly, growing up in the 60s and 70s when dealerships commonly pop-riveted die cast emblems to the trunk lid of cars they sold, these were guaranteed to cause rust (especially in New England), so all the more reason to refuse them.
  37. 1 point
    Trapped air/air pocket maybe. I always "burp" the system whenever I totally drain the radiator or refill the system. Here's a good how to https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/
  38. 1 point
    Fill the fluid coupling. I use Super Tech (walmart) Heavy Duty Tractor Hydraulic and Transmission oil. I remember researching this and asking a ton of questions when I got my 46 Dodge and this was the answer I got. I am sure there is an ISO number but my jug is pretty crudy to find it anywhere. I bet if you do a "fluid drive oil" search on here you'll find out more. If the coupler is dry figure of almost a full 2 gallon. On the passenger side trans tunnel there is a little removable plate like you have for the brake fluid. Remove the cover. Now pop off the coil wire and "bump" the motor a little at a time till the plug becomes visible. Remove the plug WITH A MAGNETIC SOCKET. You drop it and have fun crawling around removing the dust cover to retrieve it. Fill it till it's full. Your car will not move until you do. so. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_Drive
  39. 1 point
    Quick update for today, I completed the two top bows and have installed them on the top assembly. Also got the wooden header today, although still have to attach it. After that, it will just need to be installed when the car is mostly complete and have the fabric top installed. Back to focusing on the body work this weekend. I think now that the body is striped and sealed, I'll continue working on the fenders and get them smooth and ready for more sealer primer in preparation for the high-build primer, then I'll attack all the rust outs in the body.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Hopefully this will help someone else. Working on a 1930 DeSoto with a bad brake light switch on the master cylinder. Purchased a new one and still could only get the brake lights to come on by pushing hard on the brake pedal. I was getting kind of frustrated when it dawned on me that a had a new mechanical ATV brake switch. Made a bracket to mount it to and it works like a champ. This is looking up from under the car. It's mounted to the side of the battery box. A longer cotter key was installed brake pedal pin and the switch spring hook to that. Simple to install and easy to adjust when the brake lights come on.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    To this day I keep driving if my gas station is getting a gas load, the thought being the sediment in the tanks below gets all stirred up. This despite understanding the fact the gas is filtered at the pump much like the oil filter on one's car.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Well I went the DIY route. I ordered a couple of patches off of eBay and used contact cement to glue them down. Looks pretty good.....I just hope they stay on for a long time. I don’t use the car much so they won’t get too much wear and tear. BTW, the mats were purchased from Lloyd’s Mats if anyone is curious.
  46. 1 point
    So I don't have to worry about you rubbing up against my car? 😉
  47. 1 point
    Car makers use steel tube because it is cheaper. The cunifer tubing is DOT-approved for brake lines, 92% of the strength of steel (before the steel rusts), and holds up through the most grueling tests by SAE. Here is a summary of their report from 1993: 1993-03-01 Automotive Hydraulic Brake Tube: The Case for 90-10 Copper-Nickel Tubing 931028 For many years the tubing in automotive brake systems has been manufactured from low-carbon steel. One or more superficial coatings are applied after brazing to protect the steel substrate from corrosion, because steel has no inherent corrosion resistance to the road environment. Although coating composition has changed since the original hot-dip lead-tin coatings were used, coating flaws remain a problem. The addition of zinc-rich paints did little to improve the protection of the tube. Current aluminum-zinc coatings and added polyvinylfloride coatings are still inadequate to totally protect the steel tube. In a recent series of tests, 90-10 copper-nickel tube (UNS C70600) was fabricated into typical brake system “shapes” which were then attached to a test trailer and conveyed through various corrosive and mechanically abusive test track environments. The tests included holding the tubes in a high humidity chamber for a portion of each 24-hour test cycle. After 40 cycles and at each 10 cycles thereafter, the individual tubes were required to pass a 20,684 kPa (3,000 psi) pressure test. Candidate tube materials had to complete 60 cycles to satisfy the minimum requirement. Current production steel tubes passed the 60-cycle requirement but failed well before 120 cycles. The 90-10 copper-nickel tubes completed 200 cycles with essentially no reduction of their original burst strength.
  48. 1 point
    It took me most of the day, but I got the seam welded on the small cone and the two cones butt-welded together and the welds cleaned up. The cones meet at a 10 degree angle, as planned. I was able to re-roll the small cone after the seam welding and grinding in order to get it completely round. It's the only way to get the flats at the seam to go away. I did look up what the intersection of a plane and cone is: it's also an ellipse. Archimedes and the other Greek mathematicians knew all that 2200 years ago. I'm not sure how that knowledge would have helped me make the paper pattern, though. Now I have to disassemble the intake manifolds and carbs and pull the exhaust manifold off so I can weld the cone assembly to the end of the megaphone on the exhaust manifold. I'm hoping my TIG welding gets better and faster, but this is the first serious thing I've done with my TIG. The two cones welded together at a 10 degree angle. The 4" exhaust pipe, the cone assembly, and the megaphone exhaust manifold. The cone still has to be welded to the megaphone.
  49. 1 point
    the two photos of the IF roadster - the one with the bi plane in the back ground shows Joe Gaeta at the wheel, as I mentioned he owned the car that was built for Rudolph Valentino because Valentino died before he could take delivery. I do not believe that there were two cars built that looked like this, only one , same car in both photos.
  50. 1 point
    Well, there are two sides to this story. If he's running straight pipes that's one side. But if he is using it just once a day that's another. This is exactly why I bought 100 acres and my nearest neighbor is about 800 feet away. But even so my 800 foot neighbor, freshly moved from town, let me know he could hear my wife's one rooster crowing in the morning. I pretended it was a compliment and said: " Yes isn't it great now that you are in the country and can enjoy the sounds and fresh air of country living." He looked at me for a few seconds and dropped the subject. I've also had people from a development a half mile away call and complain that weed seeds from my fallow fields were getting in their lawn. Oy Vey.....Bob