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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/20/2020 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Love the guy with his garden hose on the balcony trying to put out the fire.
  2. 5 points
    Thanks for posting @6T-FinSeeker and including the picture copies. Here also 'for posterity" are a few more pics and the description. This is a one owner, California vehicle. It was parked in a Northern California garage and put on blocks in 1958 and sat there since. The owner passed away ten years ago and we bought if from the daughter who inherited it. There is no rust on this car. Paint is mostly original and there is no evidence of any previous damage or bondo. The engine is a fresh and complete rebuild with zero miles on it with automatic transmission. Power Windows and Power Brakes. In addition, here is the list work that we did which is typical for any car that was sitting for that length of time: New Coker Classic Wide Whitewall tires, re-cored radiator, new water pump. New gas tank, fuel lines, and fuel pump. New power booster, master cylinder, brake lines and wheel cylinders. Front seat re-upholstered in Ferrari Connolly hide. The car runs, shifts great and pulls away smoothly like new. Mileage is only 53K. VIN-A1016169. Clean CA title in hand. Enjoy the way it is or bring this worthy car to the next level. Never before noticed the interior light over the back window of the 76C's, cool... The description states engine rebuild but this is definitely a '55 model year 322. I'm bettin the original had a stuck or dropped valve, what do you think @NC-car-guy Pretty decent job of front seat material choice and reupholstering to match rear original Even considering engine change and new front seat material I'd still love to own this car and maintain as is for archival purposes. If I had an extra 20 grand in my pockets I'd have to at least throw it at it and see if it stuck. @Fr. Buick you need this car. At least go take if for a spin. Let the top down, but careful, don't let the cigar ashes fly to the back seat.
  3. 5 points
    Well, we got on the road for the first time! grill is back on, brakes bled, transmission seems pretty responsive... after nearly a whole other gallon of ATF. I’ve run flex hose to the trunk and tied a five gallon can in there. The tank has been sealed on the inside, but has several gallons of very very old gas in it. So what does one do with old gas? I had the original temp sender and gauge hooked up and it worked when the engine almost over heated when badly timed, but after a new thermostat it barely registered after 8 or so minutes of idling... so I put a mechanical one on, turns out the engine just doesn’t get too hot. I won’t take that as a bad thing for now. I will have to repair floor pans. However, the old bank account is running on E right now. First thing after I get some cash will be a 6v alternator painted black.
  4. 5 points
    Circa 1959, dad and mom gave up their 52 Roadmaster for a "new" 57 Roadmaster 75, purchased in Selma, AL. They took grief from some who thought the 57 was too fancy for a "negro" couple, but they loved it and cruised with pride!
  5. 4 points
    Well, it's been a week and I got quite a few comments about my engine rebuild. I learned that there are as many opinions as there are comments. With that said, here is what I am going to do. I spoke with Dave Mattison at Abrahams Machine Service. I figured that since they are rebuilding the engine they might have some suggestions. Had a great visit with Dave and really learned a lot. First off, I was told that Black Moly Assembly Grease and LubriPlate #105 White Grease should NEVER be used to set an engine together. The reason being is that both of these products will not dissolve into the engine oil during the initial start-up. Dave told me that they use a Clevite product for the initial assembly. They also use and recommend Clevite break in oil for the first 300 - 500 miles on the engine and then I can switch over to the oil of my choice. I asked him about using Havoline Motor Oil. His words were, "EXCELLENT CHOICE". I then asked about the grade to use since we will be running aluminum pistons. I think everyone knows that the cylinder wall / piston clearance for aluminum pistons is different than for an engine with cast iron pistons. I asked if 20W50 would be a good oil to use. Again, his words were, "EXCELLENT CHOICE". We then talked about the zinc additive in the modern oils. I knew this, but, he told me anyway, the bearings in modern engines have Babbitt in then. His opinion of the ZDDP issue is that it is way overblown and that with using the latest 20W50 Havoline oil the engine will run forever with it. I want to say this very carefully so that there will be no misunderstanding - I AM NOT GOING TO RUN MARVEL MYSTERY OIL IN THE CRANKCASE! Dave and I had quite a discussion about that. He told me that when my Dad started driving back in the late 1930's and early 1940's, oils and fuels were way different than what we have today and there could have been some benefit from using it to keep the insides of an engine from getting gummed up. Totally unnecessary today. He said that if I was really set on using it, put a little in the gasoline tank with a fill-up. Dave and Brian Heil both told me that Clevite is a major supplier of bearings to General Motors. I am very comfortable with my new found knowledge about how to break this engine in properly. Thanks for all of your comments and encouragement. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  6. 4 points
    "...this car must be moved immediately or it WILL be towed!" But my favorite sound on the PA system is when the National Anthem gets played. Terry
  7. 4 points
    We've been going since 1968 and my wife and I always wait for when that voice wants a car moved and calls it a "vee-hickle". Love it! I'm a NY Yankee fan and it reminds me of long time Yankee Stadium announcer Bob Shepard. It's funny how you can relate a voice to an event.
  8. 3 points
    Here's one you don't see everyday: For Sale: 1954 Buick Roadmaster Convertible in Los Angeles, CA on eBay: For additional pictures and information: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-Buick-Roadmaster/303488486570 For posterity:
  9. 3 points
    The excitement of hearing it run leads to missing some things to do before you start it. Man....I have been there and done that! You are not alone. I recall installing my fresh heads on the 264. This after honing and new rings. I decided to hand turn the crank to assure the was nothing in the valve train was hitting the top of the pistons. I got about a 1/4 turn before it jammed. And spun the crank back 1/4 turn. It jammed again. I scratching my head and cussed a bit. I did not want to remove heads or find the push rods I reinstalled are now to long jamming up the works. I get ready to do just that but decide to crank the crank by hand one more time. When I do...I hear a clank in the rear. What the.... I had left the 3 speed in gear. Once the manual was out of gear the engine spun without issue. So yeah, my excitement to get it running caused me to miss that completely. Just chalk it up to a learning curve and something to share when another is working on a 322.
  10. 3 points
    The trim clean up got side lined as I went to the garage to check out the trap hoping the beast was in there. Sadly it wasn't but noticed the hole where it scratched through the plastic, then the screen, was even bigger! That was it! Started on the soffit panel by the side door only this time with a proper step ladder... Even with that, man are those things a bugger to get together, especially after they have been bent but I managed. No wonder it fell through these as there is no structure underneath to hold them in place and quite a span. That's why I put the one x two on and will paint it white to blend in once the weather is warm enough. Decided to check inside and sure enough don't I hear some rustling in the rafters on the far side! With a long length of loose plastic water line I was able to chase it to the back where I thought I heard it scoot down the back soffit that was still open. Just to be sure it was gone I fired up the Special and left it on fast idle while I replaced the soffit panel. (That one was just as fun...) With the back telling me I had about enough I brought out the roll of plastic from inside and started stapling it over all the four back windows and the two side ones. Another fun job with those ladders hanging there... I would have removed them to make it easier access but they are industrial use and are heavy so that option was out being by myself. Besides, I was pretty sure the critter was gone as I heard it thump on the ladders as the rack rattles very easily. Deciding I needed a break, shut the Special off. Man was it toasty in there with the holes covered up! Next I unrolled the chicken wire I brought from Mom's measuring it for the section that had the big hole in it. I stapled it in place and then cut 1x2's to secure the wire and plastic firmly in place. By now the shadows were getting long and knowing the sun sets fast yet around here I cleaned up not wanting to be stumbling around in the dark. (The fact the back was now screaming at me was the real reason... 🤬) Will be back in the morning (with the back brace pulled tight as I can) and finish with the wire and wood so I can then go inside and staple up the plastic that is hanging... If I'm not in traction after that... I want to get at the Special to replace the speedometer, headlight switch and the radio. Feeling sore after doing work on the cars is better than being sore from dealing with this crap!
  11. 3 points
    The rear brakes are actuated differently than the front ones. No cable, but a rotating shaft each side of the differential. At the left from the attached picture, you can see the actuating lever which is the same as for the front and a shaft "pinned" into the brake shield. That shaft has a lever; the connecting between that lever and the actuating one is still to be done. On the right, you can see the other drum and shield assembly with that shaft. The other end of the shaft will get a lever, of course, and it will be guided by a bracket and bearing attached to the differential body.
  12. 2 points
    Please don't make this more complicated than it has to be. Start with a Model A if you want to in order to learn shifting. When you are driving a heavy Classic or similar car just remember to turn the steering only when the car is moving. Too many people try to turn the wheel when the car is stopped and realize it is next to impossible. Simply rolling very slowly is the preferred way. Also, if it is an earlier car with just two wheel brakes leave plenty of room to stop. Above all else - have fun and enjoy the experience !!
  13. 2 points
    Unfortunately, one man's "frame off" is another man's rattle-can restoration. Without detailed photos, it's impossible to offer a valid estimate.
  14. 2 points
    Seen these little scanners mounted on your local police cars? Those are license plate scanners, specifically designed to read license plates at speed in all directions, up to 100 yards away. Cruise through a parking lot and they already know who's there. On the road, it's collecting data on who is out driving. They know when you buy groceries and where. They know where your girlfriend's house is. Car in the same place more than two or three days in a row? Logged and marked for follow-up. And if a license plate with a warrant attached shows up, BOOM! RED ALERT! As the victim of identity theft with multiple arrest warrants in my name (that I didn't earn, obviously) when these things showed up about five years ago my life got exponentially more miserable on the road. I went from being pulled over about once every five or six months when a cop was behind me at a red light and ran my plates to being pulled over twice a week. Those things would read my plate, the warrant(s) would pop up, and the cop would spring into action. Older cops would usually listen, look at the paperwork I provided, and understand that I'm not the guy they're looking for. If it was a young guy, I knew I was screwed--he was going to be a hero. I can't tell you how many times a 23-year-old officer took my folder of documentation, threw it back into the car, and said, "Tell it to the judge." I've been strip searched, I've had a panicky little rookie call in reinforcements with body armor and assault gear, I've been handcuffed more times than a crack dealer, and fifteen years ago, I even had my Mustang left by the side of the road WITH THE KEYS IN IT while they took me to the station for a few hours--I can't believe it was still there when I got back. My old cars have YOM plates that I never bothered to register. I'd rather risk whatever ticket I'd get for a bad plate rather than connecting those plates with my name. I can only imagine what the cops would do if they impounded the '29 Cadillac. Even putting all my cars in Melanie's name only slowed it down for a little while, but now she gets pulled over because she's a "known associate" thanks to this database and because our cars are frequently spotted together in our parking lot at work, where cruisers regularly drive through diligently collecting their data. I run a dealer plate now, which seems to have slowed it down, but if a cop is bored it still pops up as a connection in their database and they sometimes spring into action. The last guy came up to my window with his gun out--for Pete's sake, I'm a middle-aged guy in a station wagon talking about superheros with my 11-year-old son, not some desperado. It's embarrassing. They ARE watching. They ARE tracking. And if I could get a plate that was unreadable, I'd do it in a heartbeat. I see this "issue" as a feature, not a bug.
  15. 2 points
    haven't seen a woodpecker here in over 10 years come to think of it. Hope you didn't send that annoyance my way Lance! Two experiences with raccoons and a possum (those things are blind as a bat during the day but present a vicious effort when confronted) is about all the critters I need in one of my garages.
  16. 2 points
    If anyone needs a look-see, I would be willing to go...
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    On Staten Island. Parked since 1939
  19. 2 points
    Moore’s in SD had one! Thank you everyone!!!
  20. 2 points
    For what it's worth I have had an issue with flaking powder coat on my factory manifolds on my 320 due to heat. This is on my 80C where everything was baked and cleaned and re-cored, etc.
  21. 2 points
    As Don mentions in the instructions, I did not take the jack stand from his place that we had used to mount the transmission nose down. However, my friend Tom had the brilliant idea of using a portable work bench that he has that worked perfectly. Here are the three torque ball components that Don mentions in his instructions: the outer part, the ball, and the inner part. The inner housing goes onto the back of the transmission with a gasket. Once this is in place, you start the trial and error process of fitting the shims, as Don explains. The shims that come with the kit are four different thicknesses. After some fiddling around as explained in the instructions, I determined that the .0150 shim was too thick and the .0060 shim was too thin. So the .0100 shim was "juuuust right" (as Goldilocks would say). Here's what I used as a "bar" to move the ball while testing (very handy). Once I had determined which shim to use, I applied the goop (nasty stuff, as Don says). After that, I put it back together and "Bob's your uncle" -- torque ball done! (Whereupon I promptly prepared a rye Manhattan to follow Don's final instruction.) (Cocktail not pictured.) Edit: I forgot to mention that, of course, you have to add the large rubber seal in the final assembly. There is also a smaller seal that goes on the end of the shaft and is shown in the parts photo but was not yet installed in my final photo. Final edit (I hope): I also forgot to mention that Don had put the ball part on his lathe and polished it up before I took it back to my place.
  22. 2 points
    I read this on the MGA Guru site. I'm mainly concerned with moisture getting between the wood and the metal and getting trapped, moreso that water splashing into the passenger compartment. I have no plans to ever drive this in rain or wet, although it could happen. It will also help with vibration and rattles, I would think. Just put a thin-ish strip, I went fairly easy to start. -Chris
  23. 2 points
    Torque Ball Assembly The only job left on the transmission rebuild was assembling the torque ball. Here's a photo of the torque ball kit items that come from Bob's. And here are the instructions that Don was nice enough to write up for me. Torque Ball Assembly In the ’38 manual there is a Figure 7-15 that shows the assembly. On yours, I did not find a spring washer and the seal isn’t cork. Not surprisingly, the manual isn’t much help on assembly, but the figure is. If you can, position the trans like we did in putting the counter shaft in with the rear facing up. That will make things a whole lot easier – it is worth the effort (you should have taken that jack stand) There are 3 parts plus the tapered packing ring involved. 2 parts are stationary and affixed to the transmission Those parts are gasketed and shimmed. You’ll find a gasket and a number of different thickness and colored “shims” – very flimsy. Start with everything dry and with no lube or seal installed. (well, maybe a light smear of light oil on the ball like 3&1) There are inner and outer stationary parts. There is a gasket between the inner stationary part and transmission. The movable ball goes on next. Note that the “TOP” goes upward. To set the shims: Assemble the outer stationary part with one shim (I’d start with the thickest) against the inner stationary part. I think there are 6 bolts (don’t use lock washers yet) – start to tighten 3 of them evenly and slowly. Check ball for movement as you go. At some point, before the bolts are tight, the ball should bind. Go back and remove the outer stationary part and add or remove shims as necessary until the ball can be moved, with very slight resistance, with a bar in the U joint, from limit to limit. I differ from the manual on the use of a bar because the manual is dealing with new and unused parts – yours are not. You’ll probably find areas that are looser (probably at the center) than at the limit. That is OK, provided you can move the ball to its limit. This is an iterative process and you’ll probably have to do it several times as you sneak up to the correct fit. At the point when all is good, install all the bolts with lock washers. It still should move. If not add a shim as necessary to get things moving again. At that point you will be near crazy with fiddling with it. Now take it all apart. (Fun isn’t it). Time to work with that horrible grease they give you – use gloves! Install the rubber seal. Grease the wear surfaces of the stationary parts. The grease has to be spread evenly and completely all over the stationary parts plus the sealing surface of the seal against the ball. Do not use sealant on any of the gaskets or shims. Reassemble everything EXACTLY as it was before. Tighten the bolts, but then loosen the bolts until you can just barely move the ball by hand. You do that because it will help to align the ball flange with the torque tube on assembly. Use the pilot bolts in the ball flange to help orient them with the torque tube flange bolt holes. Once the torque tube is aligned, bolt things together and then go back and tighten the bolts on the torque ball parts. Have a drink.
  24. 2 points
    Ok very small update for anyone wondering. Finally got the heater working after baysitting it and trying everything under the sun to make it run. I believe it has a faulty sensor (it's got a computer motherboard with alot of fail safes) that's only tripped when it tries to start after running, but not on initial startup where it runs fine. I got really frustrated and finally took the one i took out and replaced with the unit I have been battling with, put the new gasket set in it , all the parts I robbed off it to try to keep the installed one going and it fired right up and has been running fine ever since. I found later that it originally quit because of a plugged fuel supply line between the pump and the burner. I's about 3/32 and cokes up from the burner. Seems the guy I bought these from that rebuilds them, must not be cleaning out this line when he rebuilds them. Anyways I was able to take a few more minutes and do a little more wet sanding and buffing on Victoria. It's a shame someone buggered the front fender, then touched it up fairly well, only to have someone else bugger the same fender again only to touch it up with a brush and whatever tan paint they could find on the shelf. The first respray after fixing the fender wasn't terrible and only a shade off that when wet sanded and buffed out was hard to see the transition line. I'm trying to keep the paint work to a minimum. I don't mind the thin paint in spots and really no checking or cracking so it's on there pretty well. The chrome on the headlights is pretty nice. I didn't pull the lenses yet but I'm pretty sure the reflectors have been cut to allow for the seal beams to be impregnated inside. Unfortunately with the heater I have had little time to do much, but now hopefully I have rounded the bend. I did join the ACD club the other day. It needs running board moldings and covers. The radiator cap might have the wrong guts as the top of the neck of the radiator is about flush with the top of the shell so it's just the cap making it stick up. I told the wife I hate to have to repaint that fender but I'm going to have to. She said just mix up some better touch up and paint over the fix with a brush like they did. LOL
  25. 2 points
    I just had the Cadillac out for a new video. I have two guys with offers on the table, but have not seen any cash from either of them yet. First guy requested more information about engine condition, so I pulled the heads and pan, checked out crank bearing clearances, pulled all the valves to give them a little touch-up. Rebuilt the vacuum pump and did some painting. The engine looks like it was totally rebuilt during the complete restoration. Odometer just turned 400 miles. The notes Ted made when he was restoring the car, say he had all the instruments restored and set to zero, so I suppose the car has 400 miles since it was restored.
  26. 2 points
  27. 2 points
    All of the prayers are obviously helping. Here he is earlier today with his daughters....
  28. 2 points
    I found this 1904 Locomobile in the porch of a farmhouse out in the country about 10 years ago.
  29. 2 points
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    I will be on Saturday 02/29/2020 at the AACA Winter Nationals to be held here in Miami, Fl. My Buick will be there hopping for a Junior. Are you coming down? otherwise I will in the future, try to visit my neighboring country up North. I will be retiring in the summer but already Had planned a 4 canyons RV westbound trip. Maybe next year would like to visit Canuckland.......beer is on me!
  33. 1 point
    Good Morning my fellow Buick friend. We have to meet someday... I think I'd enjoy sharing a beer (or two) with you and your sense of humour... Thanks. (Laughter helps keep me out of the basement emotionally - what else can one do but persevere what is handed to you)
  34. 1 point
    Give the soaking with WD-40 a couple of days. If you can move the hood, that is good too. Try not to force it where you might break any hinge tabs. Work the hood back and forth in small increments until movement starts to become easier, then you can make the movement a little more distance each time. Do you have access to an air chisel? Use one with a small rounded punch end. Get a 6" piece of rod that is the same OD or just slightly smaller than the hinge pin. Round both ends just slightly to prevent mushrooming using a grinder. Lay the hood on a thick pad (blanket) on a table. Have someone hold the hood. Use the air chisel and the 6" rod and go back and forth on each end of the hood rod to try to get it to move. Figure what size rod is in your hood, and get one (from online metals ) just one size smaller - even metric. Once you have the rod moving in one direction or the other, you can start to force the slightly smaller rod to displace the existing hood rod. The air chisel will set up vibration that should help remove the stubborn rod. Hugh
  35. 1 point
    Hello Everyone,I will have a transport spot available from Arkansas, Missouri, Eastern Oklahoma, Eastern Kansas back to Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Etc. This trip will load late the week of Feb 16th or close depending on weather. This trip will be with the Ameri-Lite aluminum single car enclosed trailer. This is an actual vehicle trailer with a dove-tail rear & a drive in rear door for loading of the lowest of vehicles. The vehicle need not run as the trailer has an electric winch, but it MUST roll on inflated tires & the brakes cannot be stuck!I have well over 3.5 million accident-free transport miles over the last 36+ years. Please see this link for hundreds of ALL positive feedback posted by the actual customers, NOT by me! Out of the 2500 or so vehicles I have transported in my career, there is only ONE negative feedback. That is concerning a hailstorm I got caught in 10 years ago. the incident happened, but the story posted on some Mickey Mouse little website in the seedier corner of the internet is FAR from the truth!https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/Give me a call, email or P.M. for a cash on delivery price quote. I do not take deposits as I believe a mans word is his bond & I only charge by the loaded mile.Thank You & God BlessBill Squires(owner)Bill's Auto Works(216)832-8697 No Textsbillsautoworks1@aol.com
  36. 1 point
    You are smarter than you look.
  37. 1 point
    Looks like you have a little digging to do! All the best to you and take care!
  38. 1 point
    only one I got right now but once I get back she’ll be coming out of the slow grave she’s been sitting in since 83 I’ll be getting her moved and rebuilt after june
  39. 1 point
    Imagine going into a garage and finding an unrestored chassis and a restored body. Now, that would be a rare find indeed! By the way, I sold the King Midget pictured above. Honest, some clown came along and had to have it. A real one.
  40. 1 point
    I agree Tex, that is why I show the DuPont, the late Case, and Yellow Cab. I am trying to show exactly what you’re saying... hard fast rules don’t always apply. I think your comment on the quality is spot on, but like the CD example it’s pretty vague and only the experience of getting cooked yourself will help. I tend to be more cautious when looking. If you search for the Michigan emblem, there’s one with a hole in it on eBay, if mine wasn’t marked I would fully believe it was good. It still might be, but I wouldn’t drop that much cash without knowing. You should know that I actually keep you as a search just because I like to see what is selling and for what money. If if anyone else has input please keep it going!
  41. 1 point
    even better: https://wpta21.com/2020/02/19/nascar-driver-ryan-newman-released-from-hospital-following-fiery-crash/
  42. 1 point
    I see the windshield glass is out in the later pictures. Are you going to replace it with safety glass - or what are your plans with that?
  43. 1 point
    Very rare and nice set of 21 inch buffalo wire wheels. They are in phenomenal shape. They come with a complete set of hubs and lock nuts. Firestone whitewalls are older but still soft and not weather cracked asking $5700 obo call or text Rene (562)355-7108 located in Whittier ca. I can deliver within 100 miles of Whittier CA
  44. 1 point
    Keiser31, there goes the Jeopardy money!
  45. 1 point
    I haven’t posted anything for a while thought I would update my slow progress. Rolling chassis is complete other than bleed brakes, and inner fenders, radiator, and hoses. I then hope to take short drive. I repaired a few more places on the inner fenders and painted them first time I have ever done paintwork. From what I can tell, the engine compartment should not be gloss paint. I have also went back at rust repair, trunk is now in place 100%. I am now going along and fixing all the other rust damage. It is closer than it was but still a ways before it is back on the frame. Steve
  46. 1 point
    I can't help it. I look at cds as relatively high tech. After investing lots of money in collecting them I now have a bunch that I can no longer use in my new car. And they don't seem to make an aftermarket unit that fits. GRR!
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    THE LONE STAR CHAPTER of the Buick Club of America invites you to our 33rd annual Buicks and Bluebonnets Tour Hyatt Place, College Station, TX. April 24-26, 2020. Flier and Registration
  49. 1 point
    Al thanks for the pictures of the brake fluid reservoir, I am working on a paint that is close on color and might hold up to brake fluid. I have also contacted a shop in town that does some anodizing also Zinc plating, they say they can get close on color will see. The Differential am I close on the color I have used? I have made a little more progress on my project. I try to do something on this project every day, clean and paint or locate parts for the next step. Front springs are installed Backing plates are going on and brake lines are on the run. Will be working on the rear axle soon Steve
  50. 1 point
    Made progress on seals after a night’s sleep they went on with a little help moving the spindle up and down and a hook to get the seal over the pin, did this before the lower was installed. The lower pin and seals are very straight forward. I plan to add a little paint on the new parts and this side will ready for the backing plate and brakes. I have added few pictures of the seals and other parts. The brake reservoir is also pictured I have two with the mounting tabs and one that is missing the tabs, it will be in the junk soon. Does anyone have a color picture of this so I can try to match the color, and a paint or coating that will resist brake fluid? I also have a picture of the differential any color information on correct paint for 1953 diff would be a great help. Thanks Steve