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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 16 points
    we just finished up my 1915 pre-fab gas station with pre-visable Gilbert & Barker gas pumps . Also working on a 1913 standard gas station with island pump cover will more of standard when finished . The windows came from old 100 year old building s that have been demo .
  2. 10 points
    As some of your know I posted some pictures of my Winterfront that was given to me, along with a bunch of spares, for our 1927 Buick Model 27 “Standard” a few months ago by the previous owner of the car. Well tonight I decided to get it out again, wipe it off real quick and ask the Mrs if I could borrow her hairdryer! Well, the Mrs said yes and the “Winterfront” with it’s 90 plus year old technology still works just fine! It didn’t take long at all with the hairdryer on low to start opening the louviers of The Winterfront! I just wanted to share my excitement with my fellow car fanatics!
  3. 10 points
    Many years ago I was at a car meet in Boston. One of the cars there belonged to a Mr. Johnson, a Woolsey-Siddley c.1908. I overheard a woman saying to Mr. Johnson "what a wonderful car, where ever do you get parts for it?" He replied; "from the original source madam, a drill press and a lathe."
  4. 10 points
    Lots going on recently... Liftgate glass is IN! I was reluctant to tackle this myself, so I got help from the glass installer who installed the windshield. I was lucky enough to get a tinted liftgate glass panel from another Caballero owner (57BuickJim). His parts car had tinted glass and he agreed to swap it for my clear glass. Painted the wheel well trim to match the interior. Installing rear compartment load floor panels. This is the front edge of the rear load floor. There is a vinyl closeout panel that covers the floor pan from the middle of this part to the rear of the floor pan, under the rear seats. This part was created by using the crispy, original remnants that were in the car when it was disassembled. It got us close to what was required, but the patterns needed refinement. I used muslin material to develop and confirm the revised patterns. Time to cut & sew! I cut the vinyl pieces and used 2-sided tape to hold the hems down while sewing the hems. A hardboard reinforcement was sewn to the upper edge of the original panel. I incorporated a panel edge molding (sold for 1/4" wall panels) to provide a more defined, straight edge. The upper reinforcement is screwed to the waterfall, below the load floor. Then the vinyl is folded down and lays onto the waterfall and floor pan. The cutouts for the seat bottom stop brackets are made and this part is done. This is when I realized that I needed inboard stops for the split folding seat. This car originally had a full width second seat, requiring only 2 bottom stops. The split folding seat needs 4 stops. Two pieces of 1/8" flat stock and some bending and drilling yielded these little gems Installed & painted, ready for seat installation: First test fit of the carpet... The "B" pillar cover panels must be completed before I make the final cuts and install the carpet. Muslin test parts sewn to confirm patterns are correct. These were interesting panels to construct. There are hardboard panels behind each of the 3 curved surfaces. It all gets sewn together "inside out", then inverted into the "vinyl side out" orientation for installation into the body. Masked the pillar flanges and sprayed adhesive on the part and the flange edges, then applied the part to the pillar. The edges are pulled taut to the pinch weld flanges at the front and back pof the B pillar, then the painted steel retainer moldings are pressed over the flanges, trapping the vinyl in place. These turned out great!
  5. 10 points
    At long last, a really comprehensive list of tools that tells it like it is. SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make boards too short. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under theworkbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers inabout the time it takes you to say, 'Oh NO'. Will easily wind a tee shirt off your back. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room,denting the freshly paintedproject which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. CHANNEL LOCKS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, andthe more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for igniting various flammable objects in your shop and creating a fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of whichyou want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. Very effective for digit removal! HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut large pieces into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. Also excels at amputations. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of all the stuff you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans andsplashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50-cent part. PVC PIPE CUTTER: A tool used to make plastic pipe too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object you are trying to hit. Also very effective at fingernail removal. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door. Works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records,liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. These can also be used to initiate a trip to the emergency room so adoctor can sew up the damage. MISCELLANEOUS Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling at the top of your lungs is also,most often, the next tool that you will need.
  6. 10 points
    Wednesday November 14, 2018: Some Before and After Engine Photos: Before I finish tonight, I want to share some before and after photos of the left side of the engine. These photos are exactly two years apart. BEFORE: 11/14/2016 AFTER: 11/14/2018 BEFORE: 11/14/2016 AFTER: 11/14/2018 BEFORE: 11/14/2016 AFTER: 11/14/2018 Love the transition and the final product. You forget what you started with after a couple years. Fun to revisit it and realize how much work is involved. Have a great night! Gary
  7. 9 points
    I would invite you to please come see it in person before making a judgement. All of your "issues" are either non-issues or can be explained, although I suspect that me trying to explain them would simply sound like a salesman trying to hoodwink buyers for a quick sale (because obviously faking low-mileage plain-Jane 1956 Oldsmobile sedans is a VERY lucrative business). I'm not a rookie or an amateur, I've been doing this for more than 40 years, and I would not have made this mileage claim without thoroughly investigating it myself. Please don't imply that I'm a fool or a crook without having a look yourself rather than speculating based on photographs. The car measures up in every way that I can think of. I would enjoy the benefit of your expert examination and if I've made a mistake, I'll happily correct it. Please come see it and then decide.
  8. 9 points
    To all Buick friends and families! Hope everyone has a great day!
  9. 9 points
    With the pillar trim done, carpeting and folding seat mechanisms come next. Most restored Estate Wagons & Caballeros have the rear seat stanchions bolted on top of the carpet, but all the photos of original, unrestored wagons I've seen clearly show a simple slot in the carpet, with the stanchion protruding up through the carpet. Like this: The folding seat frames can be adjusted in just about every direction, so it took quite a bit of measuring and trial fits to get the seats to appear level and even in the car. Initial cut around seat stanchion. I spent hours making vinyl "sleeves" to trim out the openings around the seat stanchions. In the end, I decided that the sleeves didn't help and they weren't part of the original design, so I removed the sleeves and will make the slots look as good as possible. No matter how I positioned the rear section of the carpet, I couldn't get a consistent position of the carpet openings in the rear door openings. 57BuickJim lent me his new carpet to compare to mine. The length of the rear door opening on his carpet was more than 1" shorter than mine. To determine why the two sides fit differently, I folded my carpet over at the center line and found that the left and right pillar cut-outs did not match. Trimming the passenger side pillar opening allowed the door openings to line up properly on both sides of the passenger pillar and door openings. I wasn't comfortable trying to sew this on my machine, so I hand-stitched the binding back on to the re-cut edge. The floor carpet is a typical 2-piece design. The rear section of carpet goes from the middle of the front door opening to the rear edge of the floor pan, under the rear seat. The front section of the carpet goes from the firewall/toe panel to the middle of the front door opening. This is the pre-cut jute underlayment for the front carpet. Minor trimming was required at the bottom of the A pillar, at the center relief cut and below the steering column. Holes had to be cut for the dimmer switch and the accelerator rod. Front carpet positioned. Next comes the rear (underseat) heater installation.
  10. 9 points
    Without the front clip, the model is looking far away from completion. To change this look dramatically, I just had to add the hood and both front fenders. To add some stability, the lower air deflector was installed. I did know that it was a tight fit around the radiator cradle and frame; this time I had to use some persuasion to get it in place. Later I understood why: on the sides, it must go under the fender construction; I managed to put it on top of that lip! I saw that when I wanted to install the screws at the flange: they were not at all aligned. Fortunately, with some more persuasion, the air deflector came out. Once correctly guided, it went in place without problem; I just had to repair the black paint which was damaged during the wrong installation process. The exhaust tubes are also installed; could I now install the grille and front bumper? No, I must first do the missing hoses for the air conditioning system. The fresh air tube for the air cleaner was done since a long time; unfortunately, it’s too short! It will not takes weeks or months to do another one; I just don’t understand why I did not it longer than necessary and cut the excess…
  11. 8 points
    It may be only Thursday but those who are retired understand we choose to drive when traffic is lighter. Checking out the part at Lake Grapevine the water is still high from rains that ended a month ago. We still like the LeSabre as the easiest to get in and out and most comfortable for traveling.
  12. 8 points
    I think a comment like that is unfair........you haven't seen the car in person, and cars rarely get termites..........dry rot and water rot yes........... Sagging doors don't necessarily mean bad wood either............ as far as anyone knows the wood in the car is perfectly fine...........if you're a serious buyer call the seller and ask...........commenting on bad wood can taint this car............. as far as I can see it looks like a nice, decent car. Ed
  13. 8 points
    Saturday November 24, 2018: Installation of the Robe Rails (Part Two of Two) After installing both inner mounting brackets, it's starting to finally look finished. This was going much better than I anticipated! But alas....... even this seemingly small interior project would not go without a speed bump! I got the outer side ready for the install. Using a leftover brass wood screw (I need to run to Home Depot for the correct oval heads) I again ran the screw through the robe rail loop. When I tried to install it, the robe rail is THREE INCHES too small! It doesn't reach the chalk marks, not even close. So, I went back and looked at my notes. The robe rails I removed were 23 inches measured from loop to loop. These new robe rails just barely make 20 inches. RATS! So, another call to LBB to have new ones made the proper length. But, I did want to get finished so what I did as a temporary measure was Used some green Christmas hanging wire to basically extend the loop 1 1/2" around the mounting screw. I had to do both sides, of course. But, this allowed me to at least get the mounts installed and tap the holes. So, they're in, but will be changed out whenever I get the new ones. Enjoy your weekend out there!! Gary
  14. 8 points
    Colonel Sam McLaughlin, founder of General Motors of Canada:
  15. 7 points
    I finally got to the Gimore Car Museum (only 20 miles from my house) to check out the Duesenberg exhibit. Folks, it is absolutely stunning. While I have seen many of these cars before, many I have not. There were 17 Duesenbergs on display and every one of them was fabulous. The exhibition was well worth the trip. Here is just a small hint of what is there.
  16. 7 points
    I'm new here, but will toss my opinion in as well. I have been in body repair for 35 years and today all I do is classic cars. First of all, Let's forget about the "anchor to a tree" idea. That is how we straighten demolition derby cars to run one more time. It works, but not very accurate. Secondly, a come along would probably break and then we would be discussing how to fix a different type of body all together! Hydraulics and a digital frame rack is the way to go. The floor pots work, but again, accuracy and multiple simultaneous pulls (recreating the collision in reverse) would be key in dealing with something this severe. I would also like to add that the "it'll never be the same" adage is incorrect. I tell my customers that if you can tell where I made any repair, if it drives differently, squeaks, rattles or dose anything that it did not do before the collision the repairs will be free of charge. The whole point is to return to pre-collision condition or better. It's not years of experience, it's caring about quality and a love for all things on wheels! Now, all that said, if I were to repair this car (I say "if" to stay on topic) I would take JohnD1956's advice and use it as a donor for another car. However, if the car has a significant or sentimental attachment to you repair it, I always say anything can be repaired, the question is should it be?
  17. 7 points
    Added some chrome pieces. Pleased to find out that the PO bought some new pieces so I'm in decent shape with the small stuff. The headlights turned out to be NOS Lucas that appear to have never been plugged in much less installed. I was pretty thrilled to find that. I didn't pay that close attention when packing the pieces after purchase but I had thought they looked decent but that the chrome wasn't in great shape. It turns out they were just dusty. It took awhile to find all the various bits to get the shiny pieces on the car but they are on now and I think they look pretty nice. I know I'll be spending some big bucks on chrome so all the pieces that I don't have to replace or rechrome will help.
  18. 7 points
    Just picked this one up this weekend, having a blast tinkering and repairing.
  19. 7 points
    Nothing says the car ever has to be completed. Four 4 grand, if I had space, I could enjoy that car for 3, 4, maybe 5 years never having any intention of "restoring it to its former glory" as they say. For that kind of money there are a lot of peaceful hours of garage time and day dreaming. As well as studying the intricacies of the car itself. I have done that a few times. Once the Buick Club Chapter was over in my garage after a nearby meeting. One of the members asked, in a pretty disparaging tone "When are you ever going to get that thing done?" when they walked over to a forlorn '50's Jaguar in the back corner. "Probably never" I replied with considerably less angst than he was showing. After enjoying the car my way for a little over 3 years I sold it. I made about $3,000 that I spent with little discrimination. The guy who bought it gave me a deposit with a promise to return in a couple of days. About 20 minutes after he left I got a call from him. He needed to know the balance to bring. He had forgotten the total price. I know the car is still about the same as it left. People own old cars for all kinds of reasons. I entered the hobby in 1959 with the idea of striving for a perfect car. I remember the exact moment in 1984 when my attitude toward that concept changed. Since then I have enjoyed my cars, no matter the condition, immensely. Actually, I have shown incredible restraint for just over a year. A convertible in worse shape is tugging at my heart. There is pain. I have bought a couple cars with my head. That never worked out. Bernie Part of peaceful holiday was spent sitting on that little blue stool.
  20. 7 points
  21. 7 points
  22. 7 points
    Well, our car season just started. Drier days, plenty of sunshine and a cool 😎 sea breeze was the setting for our AACA South Florida Region Car Show at the magnificent Deering Estate 🏡 venue. Rode Almendrón there and enjoyed the day.
  23. 6 points
    This is what the rear seat heater looked like when I acquired the car: Mostly mangled aluminum fins, but the tubing looked good. I had the local radiator repair shop pressure test the unit; it passed with flying colors. It took a couple of hours to get the fins to this point. I used tweezers, a fin comb, surgical hemostats and very small needle nose pliers...and a LOT of patience. I worked on the fins until I could see air gaps between every fin, then a final cleaning to prepare for paint. Painted heater unit with mounting brackets, attaching screws and newly fabricated gaskets: In-cabin installation is quite simple. Each mounting bracket required 2 screws and there is one center clamp. I'm going to wait to connect the underfloor hoses until I have the car up on a lift. Now, back to interior bits! These are the components that will become the rear door "dogleg" trim panels. They close out the rear door opening, from the rear edge of the sill plate up to the roof rail molding. Top: stamped steel substrate (original to this car, with some corrosion repairs already completed) Middle: 1/8" thick non-woven pad Bottom: trim cover and windlace, already sewn together. The trim cover and pad patterns were developed using the original "crispy" pieces that came off the car. Trim cover and windlace after sewing and before attachment to the steel panel: One edge of the steel substrate has pre-formed lance tabs to puncture and retain the windlace. The opposite edge is bonded with trim adhesive. Binder clips make great clamps for this kind of work... Ready!
  24. 6 points
    So after seeing the prices I might be paying to acquire the BSF nuts and bolts required, I took a much closer look at the boxes of junk that came with the car. I got very close to finding everything I need and for those exceptions (1/4" at 3" long qty 6) I substituted normal nuts and bolts from that orange place up the street. If I don't find the original BSF versions then I'll order those or perhaps Joe will have some. The picture below shows nearly 8 hours of work though one would be hard pressed to see where. Yeah, the running boards were added and there's that chrome strip on top of the bonnet but hard to see anything else as most of the time went *finding* the nuts and bolts that are holding on the panels I stuck on yesterday. In the process of trying to find what I needed I did bump into quite a few things I'll be needing soon. It is so much more fun to hunt for things when you have a much better idea of the pieces that are needed both now and in the future. Didn't get to the seat so that will be a goal for next week. Thanks to everyone for the hardware advice!!
  25. 6 points