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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    I have already exceeded my yearly quota of watching Chevelle and Camaro restomods cross the block.
  2. 10 points
    I looked back at some of my postings, found that I had started to exchange information and comments with Graham going back six years. I bought some parts from him back in December, had exchanged messages just before Christmas. I knew he was ill, but didn't know the extent of it. I'll miss having him as part of this group. Let's raise a toast to Graham!
  3. 10 points
    Today on Christmas Eve my dad and I received a 1926 Buick Master Six. Bought new from my great great grandfather.
  4. 10 points
    Hi everybody, I’m actually on my way back to home with the car and the spare engine/transmission in my trailer. It’s a 7 passenger and he’s so original. Nothing missing except 1 gauge. me and my wife don’t want to restore the car. We will clean it, make the mechanics work to tour with the car, new top, new tire and he will be ready for he’s new life. He’s sitting in a garage since the 60’s and never been started since the last owner bought the car. He have in project to restore the car but sadly he past away. me and my wife Alexandra are both 29 years old and are brass area enthousiast but we own 3 Buick McLaughlin because the company are Canadian and have a wonderful history. We live in batiscan, quebec (French parts of Quebec, sorry if my writing are not perfect I do my best) Our plan with antique is to have a collection of all running, original and unrestored or good old restoration car because they are in majority incontestably real when they are like that, not assembled from scratch. I’ll post more picture of all around the car And interior Monday morning. if somebody know good knowleadgeable guys about McLaughlin I’m interested to have is information. many thanks anthony
  5. 10 points
    I drove up to Syracuse NY this past week to pick up some 32’ Olds parts for myself and my buddy Joe. A guy in IN was parting out a 32’ 4dr and I purchased the radiator, the fuel tank, drive shaft, and some other small parts. Joe bought both axles for the brake drums basically. Because of the issues I’ve been having with my radiator and the few dents in my fuel tank (some of the points deducted at the Hershey show) I purchased both in anticipation they would solve them. Well I scoped the inside of the radiator and it looks exceptionally clean so I’ll give it a soak with the Evaporust then check it for flow. Once I do that I’ll take it to the radiator shop to be pressure tested and looked over for any issues. The fuel tank while exceptionally solid had a long crease along the entire back edge and one smaller crease on the bottom along one side. I decided to cut three side of a square on the top of the tank so I could lift up the panel enough to get inside with a hammer or dolly depending on how I might need to work it. Using a fine cutting wheel on the Drexel, I made three plunge cuts on each of the lines I needed to cut then finished them with a reciprocal hack saw. With the nice thin kerf of the hack saw blade, I should be able to tig the panel back fairly easy. At least that’s my hope. I was able to work all the creases and dented areas out fairly easily. The tank is virtually new with the inside having just a lighty dusted area of surface rust. Oh, and there was dead mouse inside! Once I tin knocked it to my satisfaction, I used both my shrinking discs to work the high spots out and I’ve got it just about done. I won’t weld up the tank until all the body work is completely done on the bottom to my satisfaction in case I need to work any part of the tank bottom from the inside. The shiny area on the tank in the second picture was all creased about 3-4” up from the center seam. You can’t even see the crease anymore. In the first picture you can see what little remains of the crease that ran along the bottom of the tank.
  6. 9 points
    After 3 years of constantly asking my father-in-law what he was going to do with the 36 Buick Special he had sitting in the driveway of his backyard, he finally decided to give it to me!!! Attaching some photos! Going to be a full restoration to, or as close to factory as possibly. No street roddin', chopping or "suping" it up. I am old school and believe classics deserve to be restored to classic condition. Not that I am against what anyone else does with their cars, this is strictly my choice.
  7. 8 points
    Leave them alone, they are fine. You don’t want to go there. That’s forty five year of experience in the hobby. Drive it.
  8. 7 points
    What does one do on a Monday after supper when one doesn't feel like going out into a cold garage and getting dirty? Grab an old T shirt, some clean rags, some chrome cleaner and a bumper guard from the front bumper of a 1958 Buick Limited, tune in the local Classic Rock (yes that is the appropriate saying for 60-70's Rock) and polish away! Keeping in time with the songs is a great motivator. While not show quality it is a great driver condition piece. It's not perfect and wears the marks of a 57,000 mile vehicle can have depending on use and storage... I'm going for saving what I can to get it complete & back on the road.
  9. 7 points
    That is a beautiful Studebaker…. found this original 1933 picture, notice the black wall tires and the black wire wheels.
  10. 7 points
    On Friday, it took all of 6 hours to do so, as we took our time and carefully made some great progress. We determined that the hood towards the front of the car was off center by about 1/4". (Al was correct in his observation). We dropped a plumb line from the center hood hole where the hood ornament is bolted on (also measured from hood crease to hood crease at that point to be doubly sure that the hole itself was centered. We then carefully measured the space between the inside frame rails and found dead center. We then moved the hood so that everything lined up on center. The gap along the rear edge of the hood at the cowl was then even, although slightly tighter at each side - however the gap was exactly the same on each side. There is no way to correct this without welding metal most of the way across the rear edge of the hood which is not practical. We also raised the center radiator support (hood latch bolts into this) as hood was sitting a little low and front fenders did not line up until we made this adjustment. We have a little tinkering to do, but are 90% of the way. This coming week, we will fine tune everything and drill some 1/8" pilot holes under each of the three rubber angle bumpers into the front fenders and into the inner panel below. Reason: We will be removing the hood and fenders for painting and don't want to have to waste any more time on this, especially with fresh paint. In conclusion, want to say that 1953 and 1954 Buick hoods are very difficult to properly line up, as can be seen if closely looking at any cars of that vintage. Having the springs renewed was a big plus, as they now open smoothly. Before rebuilding the springs, the hood jerked back when being opened and hit the cowl or top of doors - not good. I greatly appreciate all of the helpful ideas regarding this issue and want to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions, as well as encouragement. Fred
  11. 6 points
    I stopped by this afternoon and found Levi spraying some primer on the hood. He has also been working on the radiator core support and doors.
  12. 6 points
  13. 6 points
    It is good to see the out pouring of love for Graham and his wife . We became regular email/ penpals over last three years . I always enjoy are exchanges on and off the forums . We regularly exchange pic of projects and homestead . Nothing was more fun for both when both speaking English ,would have to explain what in world where talking about . He,s endured many years as a transplant patient and remains optimistic . We Skyped during holidays and was fighting some infection . But enjoyed seeing each other . He is a young man, yet and pray he will recover again , GO Graham !!!!
  14. 6 points
    I just spent a little over a week in mainland China. I had a few days in Chengdu and went to the Sanhe classic car museum. There are no old cars to speak of in China. I was hoping to see a few obscure Russian or Chinese cars. This is a city of almost 8 million people. The owner of the museum owns several automotive dealerships. There were only 2 Chinese vehicles in the entire collection. 2 Chinese vehicles for dignitaries. Very behind in the styling for 1965 and 1974. The 1974 model is pictured. I assume the museum owner bought what he liked from the US or abroad, as he had some very rare and expensive cars. Numerous Rolls Royce’s. He did have a 1919 Buick H45. All of the bodywork on these cars was top notch. Posting a few other cars here just because of the sheer rarity. Hugh
  15. 6 points
    I welded up the emblem holes in the trunk lid due to it coming from a Skylark. I'll have to locate and drill new holes for the GS emblem before paint. I hosed the second round of super build on this afternoon. Hopefully only one or two more rounds of this.
  16. 6 points
    I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Out of the whole break, I only had a few hours to work on the engine. I spent that time separating the engine and transmission. First thing I did was to follow Mr Willie's advise and support the engine with an engine hoist rather than using jack stands.Once secured, I removed the bell housing cover as shown.Remove 6 bolts (2 bolts into engine block and 4 bolts into bell housing). Remove. Showing site after removal.Showing the bell housing cover removed from the engine. Next, I rotated the flywheel with a flathead screwdriver rested against 1 bell housing cover bolt reinstalled as shown to reach the other nuts.I did this to preserve any mounting surfaces. There are over 20 nuts mounted at the outer diameter. When you look closely, you can differentiate the 3 flywheel to torque converter nuts from the rest because these 3 nuts are resting directly on the flywheel, while all of the others are actually poking through a hole in the flywheel as shown. Remove.Next, remove 6 bell housing to engine block bolts as shown. I then hoisted the engine end up just a bit to get enough separation from engine and transmission to fit a wedge between them. There are 2 dowels that keep the engine and transmission aligned with each other. 1 is right on the side where the starter motor mounts to as shown.The other dowel is opposite to the 1st one as shown.I took a wedge and very carefully pried the engine off of the transmission at the dowel locations. When both dowels slide off, you now have complete separation.I also was sure to note how the flywheel was bolted to the torque converter. These 3 holes in the flywheel shown here...line up with the 4 features (2 bolts, a plug and a welded tab) shown here on the torque converter.Showing the transmission on its homemade carriage.And showing the engine on its engine stand.Overall, this task was easy.
  17. 6 points
    Well, I got the dash home from the parts car (one that I am using part of frame for convertible). I had originally planned to use the dash pad and steering wheel for the coupe, and a few other pieces. I had also thought I might be able to use the dash from it since the coupe's is so rusty on the surface, but wasn't so sure that it was nice enough to use it as-is. After cleaning it up, I have decided it is way too nice to redo. With just a few minor flaws, mostly on the very bottom, I'm going to use it as-is without repainting it. I may lightly touch up a couple spots at most. I would never be able to match the color better than original! The chrome cleaned up pretty nicely too, but I will probably change out or redo a few of those pieces since I have it easily accessible. If the dash was already in the car though, I wouldn't remove any of it as it's too nice. Pretty excited about this!
  18. 6 points
    Wishes for a happy and safe Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, holiday season
  19. 5 points
    My daughter at 1 year old , 30 years later with her 1 year old son. Same car 1922 Packard (different registration plates)
  20. 5 points
  21. 5 points
    Another fine afternoon in the garage today. Called a fellow the other day that used to have a paint and body shop till last year when he retired. Said he bought another property that had a garage big enough to do small projects here and there because he just wasn't ready sit around doing nothing. Talked about the Limited and my goals to get it back to going on the road again as funds would permit. I then asked if he would consider painting some panels and possibly the fenders that need painting? Told me he would need to come around and see exactly where I was with the car and what I wanted to be done on Friday so dug in and gathered the inner panels together to show him. With that done I went to the back and started to move things around, some of which was knocked on the floor from that four legged hat! (raccoon) To my surprise don't I find a hood trim piece and.... a headlight switch. After pulling it out of the small plastic bag and looking it over, I read the writing on the masking tape and almost fall over!! It was a swap meet find from many years ago.... I remember locating one for a fellow that was doing a '58 Caballero (no not 95Cardinal's) and being told he wanted 450.00 for it as it was NOS. If this one isn't NOS it sure is an early take off... I'm going to use it on the Special as hers doesn't work the dash lights lights anymore. Between the radio, speedometer, light switch and recovering the padded dash top, I will only have to have things opened up once.
  22. 5 points
    The Hellephant is just a crate motor, isn't it? As far as the Camaro comparison, you made my point for me--nobody's ordering base models for posterity. The base models are getting used up and thrown away, just like the 6-cylinder Mustang coupes nobody cared about. No, today everyone is ordering the equivalent of a loaded DZ 302 Z/28 with JL4 brakes and cross-ram induction, then protecting them and documenting them and doing all the things they wished they had done in 1969. The result will be that in 50 years when they're "collectable" there will be 18,000 of them available. The reason the '69 Z/28 is valuable is because in 1969, people used them up and threw them away--the idea of future collectablility didn't even dawn on them. Hell, my father bought a brand new 1969 Camaro SS396 convertible and by 1974, I called it "the clunker" and he accidentally drove it into Lake Erie when a flood washed out the road. There was no inkling that it would be worth anything in the future. The few amazing old cars that were treated as something special bring big money because, well, there aren't that many of them. That won't be the case with late-model muscle cars because they're all being treated as collectable from the moment they hit the pavement. If all of them are special, none of them will be special. Old muscle cars are also valuable because there was a definite end to the era--after 1971, that was pretty much it for the big engines, radical cams, and high compression. Today, the factory keeps cranking out "limited edition" muscle cars, people keep buying them in huge numbers, and then next year the factory builds something even faster and even more amazing. All those cars are being saved, too. In the future, there will be a massive smorgasbord of every kind of 21st century muscle car in immaculate condition and prices will probably not be as strong as they are on what we regard as "old" cars today--cars like a '69 Camaro. Supply will far out-strip demand, especially if the factory keeps making awesome stuff or electric cars show up that stomp the compression cars into dust. There will just be too many really nice, well-optioned, really fast late-model muscle cars laying around in perfect condition. The good news it'll be great for price and availability and hopefully people will continue to enjoy them.
  23. 5 points
    Last post - period picture of 1918 Kissel Sedanlette from sales materials and finished picture of restored 1918 a Sedanlette.’ the end! Ron Hausmann P. E.
  24. 5 points
    You are right Terry. A friend passed away a few years ago. I stopped by his place to talk with his girlfriend as she was cleaning his place up. I asked if there was anything I could help with. She asked me to take a box out to the dumpster. It was a full case of dinner plates from the iconic El Mirador Hotel here in Palm Springs. Playground to Hollywood's elite, from the 30's to the 80's. Of course I rescued them. To her they were just junk.
  25. 5 points
    I received my wall display for The Aqua Zephyr today. To say I am pleased is an understatement! Now to find a place in my garage to mount it! 😊
  26. 5 points
    It's always fun to cruise with the grandkids.
  27. 5 points
    NOTHING is a fleeting as pop culture fame. As popular as he was 20 years ago, in another 20 or 30 years only film enthusiasts and people over 70 will even remember who he was. Go out and ask some "twenty-somethings" to name the Beetles (I've tried this with my nieces and nephews). None of them can. Usually I get "were they some kind of rock group?"
  28. 5 points
    The guy said it is on the "back burner" as the other projects take up room in his garage....it's a four speed....
  29. 5 points
  30. 5 points
    Just an update. The '52 Spohn Palos is well along in restoration. Currently fitting the cabrio top frame. This is the original factory color. Car is at Manns Restoration, Festus, MO.
  31. 4 points
    Necessary controls located within the drivers reach came first. Early cars often had things like drip oilers and ignition components ;trembler coils and similar, mounted on the firewall right in front of the driver as they needed frequent monitoring and adjustment. As vehicles progressed and things like speed limits were effected, accessory's like clocks and mile-o--meters and speedometers became popular. The firewall became the logical place to mount such items. At some point in the late pre- teens or early teens the dashboard as we now think of it came along at about the same time bodywork in front of the seats became popular. Prior to that most vehicles simply had the flat surface of the firewall for mounting controls and accessory's. the extended cowl bodywork made it difficult to see and adjust items mounted to the firewall so a separate panel was fitted ; usually underneath the back edge of the cowl, to bring things back to a position where the driver could access them. Racing cars generally adopted forward bodywork before regular use vehicles as added protection from flying mud, stones and similar hazards to the driver and sometimes riding mechanic in high speed events. The first dash board was possibly fitted to a specialised racing or record breaking machine. Who was the first is any ones guess. Greg in Canada
  32. 4 points
    Cars from this time were rather simple: many parts, pure mechanical devices. Probably not all were so carefully build like Cadillacs were: for example, the lever I pictured recently was installed with a needle bearing on the brake shield. Probably cheaper cars would just have a bronze bushing for the same configuration. The solutions retained were rather logical but to reproduce them on a scale model is another matter. As an example: I began to reproduce the large lever you can see at the right on the picture of the original assembly. It has a strange shape, but it was very ingenious: the nut at one end was used to finely adjust the brake shoes. This nut pulled or pushed a rod connected to the splined hub, modifying the position of the hub in relation to the lever. As my project is to make a rolling frame, many details will be seen. Therefore, I had to reproduce the splined shaft & hub. I will not add the provision to adjust the brakes, because this detail would ad too much complexity at this scale. The question was: how to do the splines? By chance, I had a milling cutter with the appropriate width. I imagined that I could do a shaft in brass and broach a piece of brass 1.5mm thick. To my satisfaction, the splined shaft was good looking. With a pilot hub, I entered the shaft into the hole of a scrap piece of brass, put the assembly in the wise and put pressure. I saw small bits of brass and was thinking that life is good, the tool is making its way. When the shaft was through, I pushed it back and, to my dismay, I saw that the teeth were just shaved! Obviously, my solution was not good. I reluctantly took a piece of mild steel and did the splines on that shaft. Contrary to my fear, the milling cutter had no trouble to work on that mild steel. Another hole, another test: still no good: the teeth were still there, but pushed back, creating a bulge. Not good for a part which should have a snug fitting! I came to the conclusion that broaching can only be done with a tempered steel shaft. My milling cutter will be instantly destroyed if I make an single attempt! Another brain storming was needed. By chance, I have a large stock of dentist milling tools; the shaft's diameter was near to the desired shaft diameter! I removed from that milling tool what was not needed and, with a diamond covered disc, I made an approximate splined shaft which was to be used as a first pass. The definitive splined shaft would then finish the female splines. This time, the whole process was a success. With the tempered shaft, I could do the approximate broaching; the final treatment was done with the shaft which will be used on the model. There is an inconvenient with this method: shaft and lever must be indexed and will not be interchangeable as my machining is not precise enough. This add a bit to the complexity, but as there are only 4 shaft and lever pairs, it can be done. And, fortunately, the parts are the same for the front and rear brakes. On the pictures, that lever is just an approximative shape. I wanted first to be sure of the broaching process before doing the final shape. Probably Mike will also appreciate: one day to make the tool and 10 minutes to broach the four parts!
  33. 4 points
    Wow, some of you guy's are tough. There are clubs for just about any type of collector vehicle. Clubs for Model T's, Model A's, Tri-Five Chevy's, T-Birds Etc. The C.C.C.A happens to have true Classic cars. You wouldn't join a Packard club with an Nash. The term "Classic Car" is thrown around too much. People see a 1950 Hudson and call it a classic car, it's simply not. The A.A.C.A welcomes them all. I think Lump sums it up perfectly!
  34. 4 points
    THat s a piece of cake. If the car is anywhere near Montreal it will even be easier. I have shipped motorcycles out of Montreal to Europe several times and one crated 4 wheel dirt tracker to Melbourne Australia. The docks are right there at Lachine. a suburb of Montreal contact Bollore Logistics Canada
  35. 4 points
    I was told it is a 37’ axle from the parts yard I got it from. I haven’t checked back with Ray since my first few conversations about this whole conversion. I will double check with both Ray and the parts yard.
  36. 4 points
    Matt, does this check any of your boxes? Hydraulic brakes, blackwalls, decent eight... 1924 "A" Duesenberg service car used by the California distributor. Maybe you read the story "Full Classics Earning Their Keep" by Jim Donnelly this photo was in [December Hemmings Classic Car, 2013]. You might ruffle a few feathers showing up at an A-C-D meet with it, but you have to admit it has a certain panache. I wonder if anyone who tracks early Duesenbergs knows what happened to it.
  37. 4 points
    I believe that the vehicle shown in the first four photos is a "sedan" delivery and not a "panel" delivery. While some may think that I'm picking nits here, there was a difference. The sedan deliveries were produced by several marques such as Chevrolet, Ford, Chrysler (Plymouth etc.), Pontiac et al, from well before the second World War up until the 1960s, as I recall. The sedan delivery was based on a passenger car chassis, whereas the panel delivery was based on a light truck chassis. A characteristic of most sedan deliveries was the side-opening rear door, with the hinge on the driver's side. This allowed convenient curbside access. Panel deliveries usually had double doors, hinged at both sides with a center opening. Anyway, that's my limited understanding of the difference between "sedan" and "panel" deliveries. Oh by the way, I have a 1947 Chevrolet sedan delivery which I like very much. Cheers, Grog
  38. 4 points
    A strange Vauxhall because it is a Austin Cambridge or something closely related from the BMC "Farina " line up. { Morris Oxford, and sundry Riley and Wolseley badge engineered machines }. Greg in Canada
  39. 4 points
    The most wood in the car is around the roof opening and rear window opening. Not really a big concern on this car.
  40. 4 points
    I forgot to have a look this morning to see if the small hole in the side of the original piston was threaded, although, I am fairly sure it isn't, I will check the next time I go in the workshop. At least, not being able to work in the workshop, made me make notes and drawings of what I was going to do to the Ford Zetec pistons to make them fit the Humber engine. Yesterday, I decided to make a long bar that would fit snuggly in the gudgeon pin holes of the piston. This was so that I could accurately line up the inside faces of the pin holes at right angles to the gudgeon pin. I then I thought - "There's a hole through the Ford gudgeon pin. I wonder if I have some straight rod that will fit that hole?" Luck was on my side, I found an ideal length of rod of the correct diameter. I checked that the gudgeon pin was at 90 degrees and clamped the piston to the milling table. I milled out 0.163" from each side. Which is enough room for the conrod and bronze bushes. I am modifying the first two pistons for Kevin, in Australia, as he is in more of a rush than I am. It also gives me a chance to practise on his piston before I do mine, but don't tell him that! Being a complete amateur at this machining, with the mill, I took my time and only machined off 0.010" at a time. I was concerned that the piston may move in it's clamps if I took too bigger cut. The first piston machined out and ready for the bushes to be fitted. I managed to machine both the pistons for Kevin this morning. Both the drill rod for the gudgeon pins and the bronze material arrived this morning. So when I find out from Kevin the diameter of his gudgeon pins I can start making the bushes.
  41. 4 points
    Follow up on my previous post: I've ordered a pair of these "bulbs". When they come in I'll take photos of the beam patterns with some #1000 bulbs, my current 25 watt quartz-halogen bulbs and with these new LED units. I am not sure how applicable this information would be for other vintage headlight assemblies, but suspect the results I get would be similar to that for most other makes/models from that era.
  42. 4 points
    Here is some original film footage of a 1931 Reo Royale at McGurrin Motors in Oakland, California. https://www.shutterstock.com/video/clip-27993922-1930s-actress-kay-gordon-visits-mcgurrin-motors
  43. 4 points
    As I said I like paper stuff. Here is some shots of a few in the mostly finished garage. I still have a bunch of small porcelain, a few flange signs, and enamel signs plus displays to set up once i get it finished off more. I just picked up all the colonial moldings for the windows and doors. I just need to finish them so I can get them installed along with the window extension jambs. Alot of the signs weren't all that expensive. The framing and Plexi adds up to as much as some of the signs and I make the frames myself. The Coke Sign is pretty big. I picked that up this summer from my 6th grade school teacher who has had it for years. It's going in the big shop along with my 40 foot Neon Coach House Sign. I was thinking of putting a fake tin ceiling in this garage with the 2x2 Copper finished stamped tin style panels, but at about 3500. That's alot for a ceiling. I still would have to figure out the lighting as I don't think Flourescent lights would look good with a fancy ceiing. Track lighting would be nice as I could position it on various select pieces.
  44. 4 points
    i once had to have my '21 Chevy appraised for insurance purposes.The car was restored in the early '70's, when multiple coats of hand rubbed lacquer was the way to get a show finish. Over the years,the paint on the front fenders had cracked noticeably due to vibration. The appraiser,a good friend, said simply , "we call that patina". My '29 McLaughlin Buick was restored over 30 years ago. In a few spots,like the hood, the paint is getting a bit thin. The mohair upholstery on the driver's side has lost some of it's "hair". I've had people come up to me and ask where I found such a beautifully preserved old car. Patina ,stage two, I guess.
  45. 4 points
    My 2019 project of the year was getting my Nailhead removed and rebuild by the very own DualQuadDave. My block ended up being cracked and it had to be swapped, but it has been a great adventure getting my Wildcat back on the road! Don't know why the thumbnail isn't showing up, but here is the first drive:
  46. 4 points
    Happy 2020 y'all
  47. 4 points
    I have a (close to) 60 year old car with original paint and interior that's noticeably less than perfect, but that's meant as a tribute to "originality" not "patina." In my opinion, that's kind of the point, just as with museum pieces, old musical instruments (where tone is critical) or 17th century furniture. Some folks latch on to the idea of patina because it's very conspicuous, but it's peripheral to my intent. On my other car, however, I had to have the rust repaired and the body repainted because the rust had gone too far. Here's my all original car (covered with dust rather than rust):
  48. 4 points
    Me in my first 1950 Buick in 1955 and beside the present one on the way to BCA Nationals in 2012' Ben
  49. 3 points
    Maybe you prefer an older dealer work/delivery vehicle ? This Locomobile belonged to Walt G. for a time. Yours truly at the wheel, back in the early 1980's, shortly after Walt bought it from Austin Clark's L.I. museum. He can tell you more about it. Paul
  50. 3 points
    Matt is 100 percent correct.