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Good call. As I installed a battery ground connection on/off switch into the floor, the flat strap normally connected from the battery to the frame was not long enough anymore. I will need to replace that with (probably a gauge 0 welding equipment type) cable of sufficient length. Modern, but covered in either some original isolation or tape to disguise the plastic isolation.

Hello! I've been looking for 1955 231/260 V-8 bolt pattern/dimensions to confirm or deny a manual bell housing I have. If anyone can steer me in a helpful direction, I would appreciate it! Thanks, Joe

It’s not leaking out of the electrical connector where the harness plugs in. I was wondering, and after looking at the picture of the subject switch, is there a way that it could leak out of the switch body? (there are several holes after the O ring and before the threads). I have no idea what those holes are for, but they are after the O ring. The fluid seems to be coming right past the threads. What really confuses me is that it seals perfectly for 3 or more days. I do a key on to run the pump even if I don’t drive it, and it’s good for awhile. 🤔🤔

Aaaahhhh... Sour grapes (gripes) from those of us who only dream of driving this marvelous creation, or having the $$$ to afford it. 🦨

Larry, Attached are the pages about setting the valve timing. The first 4 pages are from the 1926 Buick Export manual. In essence, valve timing is correct and checked by a) putting a piece of paper in the #1 inlet valve gap area where you check with a feeler gauge. b) Put slight tension on the paper. c) Another person Rotates the engine slowly. D) As soon as the paper is let go. Stop. The engine should be on the 1-6 line or less than 1 flywheel tooth width past (below) - the 1-6 line is just below the center mark in the timing window. I am also assuming that someone put the flywheel on correctly and 1-6 is TDC for the engine on #1. I have known engines to have been assembled with the flywheel on the wrong bolts. This is the page from the 1925 Buick export manual. Same instructions. So you can use what you know from your engines. This is the layout on my 1925 Buick Standard. I do not know if the teeth count is the same for a Standard and a Master, as the crank and camshaft gears are different sizes. The final check is the paper check on the #1 intake valve. Hugh

If your engine is an original to the CL then that would be the larger 385 cui engine and not 323 cui as the heads in question here were intended for. If you have no head for your engine at all, there might be some European options: 1) Back in 2006 this newly cast engine block and manifold were displayed at Essen. The items were likely made for 1933 CL in Switzerland. You could maybe contact them if they made a head too. 2) I do also recall that a Danish CG restorer had an extra head with his car.

We've sure seen worse for more. I wonder about wood in the body.... NO INTERIOR pics...likely no interior.

Good edit!

Here is a great and rare Solar taillamp that dates from 1910 to 1914ish. This lamp measures about 9 1/2 inches tall. It is in excellent condition including the two lenses, burner, etc. It is brass with nickel trim over brass. There are no dents or cracks. A super taillamp. The price is 495.00 INCLUDING FedEx shipping with insurance in the USA. Call me at: 734-730-4274 or email: motoringicons@hotmail.com

Here is a great and rare Solar taillamp that dates from 1910 to 1914ish. This lamp measures about 9 1/2 inches tall. It is in excellent condition including the two lenses, burner, etc. It is brass with nickel trim over brass. There are no dents or cracks. A super taillamp. The price is 495.00 INCLUDING FedEx shipping with insurance in the USA. Call me at: 734-730-4274 or email: motoringicons@hotmail.com

Still for sale....

I don't think the price is way out of line given the condition. The roughness of the paint on the glass certainly hurts it's value. I feel certain that one in better condition would bring $700-$800 or more.

I know nothing about signs. And you didn’t say how big it was? However, Packard stuff is still very popular. And I would imagine that’s worth $500 all day long. Even as a reproduction.

Shipping today.

Antique Auto Top Hardware Company - Antique Car Parts, Leather Straps Download the catalog pdf and scroll down to pages 17-20.

A new Tucker 4 wheeler....cool!

Here’s the spec, at least for the intake valve. Is the problem that the intake is opening before TDC? It’s quite possible that the cam regrinder put a generic, or more modern grind on it, and having the intake opening some number of degrees before TDC may be the intent.

Contact Dandy Dave Brennan on this forum. Send him a hub cap and he can make a puller for you.

Think it looks like car to me same size as a model t Ford head light, same d c plug on the back, Bob

Let me try to address the question even though my oldest car is a 1918, outside the brass era and not eligible for HCCA *national* tours. I belong to HCCA national as required to participate in three separate HCCA Regional Groups (RG)/Affiliated Registries. A key point is that *regional* HCCA activities often allow post-brass but still pre-WW2 vehicles, sometimes in limited numbers so as not to overwhelm the brass car drivers' need for slower tours. For each event, need for a trailer depends on the capabilities and limitations of your car, and locations of yourself and the start/end points of the event. There are also separate tours limited to one-cyl, 2-cyl, and smaller 4-cyl cars. It's a smorgasbord! * Bay Area Horseless Carriage Club (BAHCC), a RG, was founded in 1950 and is based in my local area. It is the type of club I grew up with 60 years ago: monthly meetings (some now on Zoom), annual holiday party, July 4 parade with following BBQ at a member's home, monthly half-day hands-on tech sessions at a member's home March-November, monthly one-day tours in the local area March thru November, including a day-after-Thanksgiving Pilgrim's Picnic in which we bring our own TG leftovers plus desserts to share (if inclement weather, we meet at a member's collection). * South Bay Vintage Touring Club, a RG better known as Nickel Age Touring Club (we had to drop 'nickel' as already taken when signing on with HCCA as national org), which does one annual 3-4-day tour (we used to do two tours per year, but we are suffering from the Aging of the Force). Some are nearby, some require trailering. * Nickel Era Touring Registry, an "Affiliated Registry" of HCCA, accepts 1932-and-earlier vehicles and has one annual 5-6-day tour in widely dispersed areas (Utah, Idaho, Washington, various locations inside California), and definitely requires trailering. Our superb 2023 tour in SW Utah had about 34 cars from 1912 thru 1932.

Karl, is your switch leaking past the threads by the O-ring, or is the fluid leaking internally thru the switch and coming out where the electrical plug connects to the switch, which is a known issue?

If you can stand in front of a public official and look like you are somewhat inept, need help, and play the follower in the pack you can probably work things out. If you are assertive, ready to state the rules and regulations, and willing to straighten out a person who doesn't know the facts you are in for a tough time. For the quick answer ask your wife which description fits you. My wife knows which one of me is leaving the house just by the jacket I take off the hook. I was fairly young when I went to the Motor Vehicle Department lacking a signed piece of paperwork. When I looked very frustrated and the and the lady at the window asked "Aren't they out in the car?" a whole new perspective opened to me, sort of like The Wizard of Oz when the movie switched from grayscale to color. In the same vein this could lead to a discussion about my dream to run a business named "Generally Honest Bernie's Used Cars".

Original '66 Fury owner's manual in very good condition. $20.00 postpaid in the lower 48 States.

Last fall I posted some photos of some radiator emblems and hood ornaments that I had bought from an estate. Later I visited the antique dealer (who had inherited those items from an uncle), to see about buying a few more. While I was there he showed me a nice old lighted "PACKARD SERVICE" sign. He asked $500 for it, and while I liked it very much, I was forced to spend my limited funds on the rest of his entire collection of badges and ornaments. Now this spring he will be coming to a local non-automotive antique show near me, and could presumably bring this sign to me. Could someone kindly offer me some value guidance here? I am fully aware that any collectible antique is worth only exactly what any particular buyer would pay. But I'm trying not to overpay for such things these days, in view of the realization that one day I'll need to resell this fascinating stuff (or my family will). Can anyone advise whether his price is reasonable for this old lighted sign, please? (I've never bought a lighted antique car dealership sign before).

Original '66 Fury owner's manual in very good condition. $20.00 postpaid in the lower 48 States.