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  2. It would be time to discuss a little bit about chrome...The subject was already scratched with the Sabre wheels; however, such a vehicle is generous with chrome. You may imagine that chromed parts were not in good shape on this car. I had to replace many of them; for example, the center bar of the rear bumper was not bad looking; once removed, I saw that it was eaten by the rust behind the small bumper guards. The pot metal parts were in a desolate shape, badly pitted. At that time, there was an advertiser in Hemmings who claimed he can restore such parts. During a vacation in Florida, I took many parts with me (next to the brake booster) and we paid a visit to that company. I left some money there and all the parts... A friend of us, located in Florida was also involved with the shipping of the parts back to Switzerland. Most of the parts were good, some were not. Something surprised me: the parts were much heavier as before. When I tried to assemble chromed parts together, like the fake air inlets on the quarter panel, they would not fit anymore. The teeth on those parts had also a drop at their ends, they were not usable as is. Then, I began to have a good look at the back side of that specific part and I noted that I could peel the "chrome". Then I understood the "secret" of that job: when received, the chrome is electrolytically removed; the copper plating stay untouched. Then the parts are sprayed or dipped in a conductive primer; they are probably sanded after that to have a regular surface. Then they get a very thick layer of copper which is polished and then chromed. All those layers add thickness to each part and the copper add the weight. I measured the thickness of the copper: 0.3mm (appr. 0.012") The first layer is almost as thick, so each surface is about 0.5 mm thicker (0.02")! No wonder that they cannot fit together! A part alone on the body is absolutely not a problem, but when 2 chromed parts have to be assembled together, you have to find a solution. I began to grind the back of my new chromed parts, removed the extra material until they would fit. Some parts were not good: as mentioned before, the "teeth" parts on the side were grotesk, either I bought other ones or I peeled the chrome/copper. The instrument body was also not good. I did also a strip-tease of that part. Then, on all parts which were now as bad as before, I began to remove the original cooper by sanding as well as a little bit of pot metal until the surface was smooth. Then, I gave them to a Swiss plater who did the polishing and plating. One part on the car was broken: one of the molding on top of the rear fenders. Despite intensive search, I could not find such a part. (Some years ago, a welding technique was developped for pot metal, but it was too late) What to do? As I did for the Brougham for a missing part, I took contact with a small foundry. They told me that if they take the broken part "as is" there will be a shrinkage and the part will not fit on the body. I had to cut the molding at the elbow and increase the lenght at each half (were it was cut) with bondo. To reduce the costs, I ordered 6 or 8 pairs; I could sell some; I still have one pair in case... Once cast in bronze, the parts had to be silver soldered together, adjusted to the body, filed, sanded, machined and...plated. The result is very good. I had an original part plated in Florida; as it would not fit the way I liked, I used another part of my creation. The original part is still on stock, ready to sell! Both pictures below are showing the bronze parts machined, but before their surface is smoothed.
  3. Here's an interesting recent Motor Trend article, TESLA MODEL 3 VS. BMW 330I VS. GENESIS G70 COMPARISON: WHO BUILDS THE BEST COMPACT LUXURY SEDAN?" Motor Trend concluded that the best of the three was the Tesla. From the story: But it was the revolutionary driving experience that pushed it over the top. . . . . [T]he Model 3's real strength is its drivetrain. To no one's surprise, the Model 3 absolutely crushed it in straight-line acceleration: 0-60 whooshed by in only 4.0 seconds, and the quarter mile fell in 12.5 seconds at a speed of 113.1 mph. Proving it wasn't a one-trick electric pony, the Model 3 also bested the BMW on our figure-eight loop, despite wearing all-season tires. That electric drivetrain also provides the framework for the rest of this paradigm shift. The near-silent, rocket-like acceleration is only the first step. On our test runs out in the real world, one-pedal driving quickly became a matter of course. Lift off the accelerator, and regen instantly begins to slow the car. Time it right, and you can navigate through even heavy traffic with only an occasional feathering of the brake pedal. Walton was smitten. "Driving feels new and novel again. The way it re-introduces driving enthusiasm to a driving enthusiast is remarkable." The Tesla Model 3 wins this competition because it has thoroughly rewritten the rules of what a compact sport sedan can be.
  4. Yes indeed a Beautiful car, from your comment "not enough suck" sounds like your using the vacuum tank to get the fuel from the tank to the carb which is fine but if you have a small pin hole leak that could drain out the fuel over the few days that the car is not in use and there is your problem, I have a inline tap at the bottom of my vacuum tank that I close off when not using the car and below that I have a clear inline fuel filter so that I can see if I have fuel running down to the carb, being an up draft carb it could also be a problem with the needle and seat in the carb allowing the fuel to flood the carb over the few days and drain the fuel out that way. Please let us know what you find out.
  5. Up until about fifteen years ago I would have not hesitate to say that 1975-95 was our golden age. That period ended when the cost of restoration, even work done by the owner, became so expensive, that fewer and fewer hobbyists ventured there. Then I began to realize that it all depended on who you were and how old you were. It now seems to me as the ageing Boomers are getting ready to pass on their legacy to the next generation. With less competition for the best restored and original cars, the next generation will have their pick, at real dollar prices that nobody could have dreamed of during the nineties. It is happening today, as we speak. So a new golden age may be upon us, but many of us will not be around to enjoy it. For those of you remaining it will be your time, I sincerely hope that you enjoy it the way we did.
  6. Today
  7. Looking for accessories for my 1939 Chevy car. Please reply with what you have if any,. Ex: radio, clock, fender grills, grill guards, fender skirts etc etc Thanks in advance Dave /
  8. Thanks guys I did indeed go ahead and order a new fan clutch just to be safe. It wobbles a teeny amount. And yeah, Dave, I can already see the shroud holes will need some "customizing" to fit.
  9. This is from a 39 chevy, I’m in need of one. Are you selling? -Dave ..
  10. Hey, Because of corossion I want to replace the negative and positive battery cables. Does somebody know where the original negative connection is? At the moment I have two cables on the negative battery point, one goes to the chassis direct near the battery, the second goes to to a bolt of the aluminium case over the power steering where you also can adjust the belt tension. For me that looks serious. Is this the original point? Also I want to remove the backseat, somebody knows how to Remove it? Have a nice day. Sebastian
  11. Also used on the 28 Chevrolets. Its the 1928 version of the late 80s ABS stickers on many car makes. They could stop in a MUCH shorter distance than their predecesors with 2 wheel brakes. There were still many cars on the road with 2 wheel brakes at that time. I have a recast one I am going to use on my 28 project. I would worry about an original being forcably ripped off at some event.
  12. John, I am terribly sorry to see that it is a stroke which has caused your health problems. This makes me, and I am sure all who read this, very sad. Heartbreaking when a car guy is grounded at the curb. I really hope life has left you interesting passions which you can still enjoy. One of your many forum friends, - Cadillac Carl P.S. : I went through my pictures hoping to find one which could bring you some peace. This always works for me. A true antique from the times of this Duesenberg, and our youth. I occasionally fly it on special occasions. This was Veterans Day, 2015. I woke up that morning and saw the seasons first light snow on the top of the hills between me and the mountain that received the first permanent layer of Winters snow. - CC
  13. I finally got around to changing the old accumulator with the new WABCO Land Rover unit. I had checked the pressure switch and the electrical connector was dry. The old accumulator had an allen wrench hole in the top of the ball for removal. The WABCO unit has a hex type fitting at the bottom for tightening but I used a strap wrench to get it tightened with the new provided O-ring. I did notice the old ball did not have an O-ring. The old ball was pretty much full of brake fluid. Then I started the engine and I noticed that the pump was not running. The brake fluid level remained at the FULL level accordingly. After about 4-5 minutes with the engine idling I heard the pump start working and the fluid level went down about a half inch in the reservoir as it should. The red BRAKE light went off and the hard pedal was finally gone. I put a couple of washers under the cross bracket to give the larger ball some clearance. Thanks all for the advise and help!!!
  14. Incredible survivor. 100+ pics and full description at
  15. Definitely NOT a Studebaker of any vintage. Studebaker never offered a high-wheeler.
  16. Excellent restoration of this 1920s masterpiece!
  17. There were three colors available: black, white, and tan depending on the model. The Buick sales code was shown on the order form but the service code was stamped on the trim line of the cowl tag:
  18. I need a 1933 Chevrolet Master Brake Light Switch. I'm thinking a 32 or 34 might also work. If you have one please let me know how much you would sell it for and how you would want the payment. Thanks, Dennis Jones
  19. I do not go on the BCA forum very often because I do not have time to do it. When I do get on, I only go to the Buy/Sell and the Pre War fourms because I do not have time for the other ones. For me, I will probably not see those messages on the General Forum.
  20. Not quite. In Kansas, license plates were issued by county. Kansas has an Edwards county, abbreviated ED. The 64 is self explanatory. The number 4747 is on the data plate of every 1964 Riviera, the model number as assigned by Buick. When put together in the proper sequence, you get ED's 1964 RIVIERA. 😎
  21. I went with a period and location correct dealer frame. Mine aren't this nice, paint needs touched up.
  22. Chassis number. I got a variation for my 64 too.
  23. New owner of a nice 68 Buick Riviera... The engine isnt original.. im trying to fiqure out what this engine came out of, and if this is a good combination...its a buick 455 block cast # is 1241735 ..narrowed the year down to a 74 via engine vin on the front under the head ...cant find any other markings One head has an F stamped in it this good? would this be the infamous"F" head? Intake is 1386681-1 (430 4bbl)... And carb is Quadrajet 7028244 ka 750cfm, all the applications i can find for this carb are for a 350? Does this stuff match up nicely or was privious owner just smashing parts together to get it out the door..? Runs nice but feels like it has more power hiding in there somwere...
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