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  2. Not being a Corvette guy at all, this would be the only year I would have.
  3. Don't some of these hoists have locking pins that hold the hoist in place to protect against hydraulic failure?
  4. The data plate is silver with a black decal overlaying it. If you open the hood and look into the engine compartment from the passenger side it is on the firewall to the right of the heater blower assembly. It is possible that it was painted over when the car was restored and that is the reason that it isn't easy to see. If that is the case you should still be able to see the numbers as they are stamped in the data plate. In terms of figuring out the value of this car I would suggest looking at completed sales on Ebay. That will give you a good 30K foot view of what cars are selling for currently. I agree that the lack of a convertible top reduces the value. If the new owner wants to get one the cost will be at least $2,500 or more depending on what the person decides to get. Best regards, Lew Bachman 1957 T-Bird
  5. I do not think you are nuts. It might work to a certain degree. I don't think it would too hard to build and try one. I think a window hung "swamp cooler" might be better.
  6. The filter on my 147 is a Purolator PER 1/2 which has the restriction on the outlet end.
  7. Thank goodness. They might serve on a trailer queen but who would know when someone might go for a drive. I am not sure if shrinkage was the problem. My original (90 year and 500,000 mile) "Jaxon" wheels have the shoulder of the spoke radiused to the curvature of the felloe.
  8. I would not consider going under any hoist without jack stands that were totally separate from the hoist. I worked in a GM Dealership that had eight or ten hoists. Each stall had a single hoist that was positioned to go under the rear axle housing and a movable front hoist that lifted the front of the car. These had a ratchet mechanism that protected the car from falling. Four times in fourteen years a seal in the rear hoist blew and the back of the car dropped leaving the car at a 45 degree angle. Each time the ratchet attached to the rear hoist was unhooked by the explosion of the seal. All the held the car up was the one inch edges on the front hoist. Each time the mechanic was quick enough to get out from under without being caught. Tall jack stands were brought in after the fourth seal blew.
  9. Yes, those big trucks can dwarf our old cars. .
  10. Thanks for the reply. The spokes are new but they were done by someone a long time ago thus the shrinkage. I have no idea why someone would interchange the two but I would assume they used what they had. I am not running them.
  11. For what it's worth, not hitting the doors on two-post hoists is ALWAYS a problem. Some are offset toward the front, some are not. With the posts offset forward, you will have to be careful getting out. With them centered, it can be very hard to get out of the car. Doubly so if it is a wide car. There is also the matter of balance. The weight has to be somewhat evenly distributed so that the car will not have a tendency to tip front to rear. Offset to the front works best for big American cars like yours, as well as modern front wheel drives. Once you get used to using your individual hoist, you will get a better idea how to "load" cars on it for good balance. Sometimes they wind up closer to the front of the bay than you would like, sometimes they hang out the back more than you want. Better to be safe rather than convenient. After looking at that hoist you mentioned, it appears the posts are centered. Put the posts as wide as you can possibly get them, and you might not have to climb out through the window.
  12. Hello My rear drum for my 53 Dodge pilot house pick up Is damaged beyond repair I have scoured the web and I am unable to find one anywhere, There are plenty of 10 inch ones on eBay but for some reason 11 inch are not available, Anybody have any ideas on what I can do? thanks!!!
  13. Not to take this thread off track, but is crimping the return line the proper way to check fuel pressure? I have a fuel pressure gauge mounted between the fuel filter and carb on my '65. At idle the needle bounces around close to zero (see 1st pic). When I crimp the return line pressure increases (see 2nd pic). Is this not the proper place to mount a fuel pressure gauge? The car does not feel like it's starving for fuel with the return line uncrimped. Thanks Doug
  14. Put in a 4th set at 120". Or two rows of evenly spaced bolts for infinite adjustment. On some jobs, you might not care if it's next to the wall. On others, you might want to get to both sides. Put in 6 or 8 sets. Won't change the cost much, and you might be glad you did. FWIW, a lot of folks with 2-post lifts augment them with extra-tall jackstands placed front and rear to keep the car from rocking. Maybe I'm an idiot, but the idea of leaning into something like a pinion nut that requires 250 ft-lbs of torque (i.e. a long breaker bar) while the car is perched on a 2-post with no additional support seems a little suspect.
  15. Back to the topic at hand. Anyone have any better indicators of value for project cars? I will take something current or something older. Thanks Doug
  16. Something doesn’t sound right. I serviced that platform back in the day and never had any issues getting correct parts. Did you get a Delco starter directly from Delco? That was whit I was implying. Not a Delco brand starter from a reseller.
  17. Give me one of your “pushers” and a blank check, it will be a driver before you can say......”my wife divorced me for spending all my money on cars”............see, it’s easy!
  18. Got an AC Delco and a Remi and both were different from what is in my car and don't fit.
  19. Following Ed's excellent advice I've gotten rid of all the cars I can drive and kept the ones that have to be pushed.
  20. Philipj, X2 on what Spinny said ! You really should flatten your pan(sump). I used all new gaskets from "Olson's", on my '40 Buick limited, and a LIGHT coat of Permatex #2 on each. AND while you have the pan down, check your oil pump. Here is mine, and it was leaking where the dark spots are round the edge. I emoried it down flat and checked the clearance to the gears with "Plastigage". Clearance should be NO MORE than .005" for getting a good oil pressure reading. I put a THIN coat of #2 round the edge and cinched her down tight. Mine wound up to be .0031" and I now have 30# at a hot idle, and 45# just cruising round town. Mike in Colorado
  21. He and his wife are two of the nicest people I have met in the hobby. We have the same excellent taste in cars. Only issue is he can afford the whole car and I can buy the hood ornaments.
  22. Auction ended 7/14 at $14,088 and reserve not met. There were 14 bidders for 46 bids. The Seller has relisted https://www.ebay.com/itm/174349188984?V=174349188984/1957-Cadillac-Coupe-deVille-Relist
  23. The sheet metal appears to have held up pretty well.
  24. I was wondering if it could be possible to run cold ice water through an old under dash heater core and use it for air conditioning or if anyone ever tried it. I thought of using a small Ice cooler with an electric pump to circulate the water.Tell me if I'm nuts but in Fl. I could use an a/c rather than a heater.It's in a 35 Buick.Thanks,Greg.
  25. That's exactly what I had in mind. I just wanted to get an ideal spacing to lift a car like mine. Of course, with what you mentioned being kept in mind. Also, I want to be able to get in and out without worrying too much about hitting the door against one of the post.
  26. Matt......I can make you a good deal on that Graham that AJ owns, I don’t like it, and it’s on my “off load” list. Since I am AJ’s retained collection manager, he does listen to me, and we have cleared out a bunch of post war junk........excuse me, I mean Shelby’s.😝
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