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  2. The failure of the rear brake reaction arm shown in the pic is a common failure. Cast steel and still fails. Both of mine L & R have been repaired. The repair is now over 20 years and 40,000 miles so I think we solved it. You mentioned reliability above. I took my 1923 for a 217 mile outing last weekend. In 2017 we went on a 1485 mile 10 day vacation and only had to lift the hood to check the oil. Where do you want to go?
  3. Went to the Can-Am Nationals Saturday. Started out like this parking in the middle of the show. It's a fund raiser that's well attended, had a good band with lots to see. It had to be moved to a car dealership as the grounds where it usually is held on the Detroit River has risen so much the grass would have been ruined! Just like most of the country this year we kept our eyes on the skies with dark clouds looming off in the south west. Sadly just about noon it started to rain and basically the show ended. I had to put the top up before she got washed inside! Turned the heat on during the drive home to dry things a bit before parking in the garage. No harm, no foul and it didn't melt!
  4. I don't drive my cars that often but I use VP Vintage Leaded
  5. If you want to salvage this motor, do not try to turn it over. You will only break parts. Pull the motor and disassemble what comes off without any force. Soak and flush and clean. repeat process until parts come free. In the process look for cracks in the block. Even if the motor is not salvageable, there are parts that others will want for their restorations. Bob Engle
  6. Thank you. Didn't even have to take nut off completely., but created another challenge. How to get my ratchet out of the bottom of the cowl?
  7. PFitz

    Franklin Models

    As far as I know, no production of any. There have been some individual ones made by Club members long ago. The best one to ask is send a pm to Walt G. He's a former Franklin owner and long-time club member. He's been a toy car collector/restorer for many decades. If anyone would know, he would. Paul
  8. Bought a new nut and worked it onto the manifold thread with valve grinding paste as suggested. New header pipe, packing and copper crush rings and it’s nice and quite. Sure makes a good difference.
  9. I corrected 2 self induced errors while tinkering this spring with my L-Z caused by my expectation of oil pressure loss and noisy valve action. The real neat thing about these cars is that they are just as cool under the hood as over, I mean the awesome 110 horse engine with the odd, but bullet proof ignition, dual water-pumps, coils, and all those head nuts, but it has to be quiet. I remember Les Keaton, old race car legend with a 37 Coupe could balance a nickel on edge on the rad cap while engine running...all you here are generator brushes slight click as they trace a fresh armature /commutator. --Oil pressure for the lifters is filtered and metered in the back of the block, a tiny "jet" or orifice prevents over blowing lifters and causing excessive oil misting in valve spring valley, the oil then exits the lifter rail to a ball which opens at 2lb or so pressure, and trickles on timing gear. I mistakenly upped the pressure on that spring, caused a worn / noisy timing gear, and noisier lifters, due to lack of actual hydraulic flow, we will see, haven't run it much did not change oil pressure at all, apparently the lifters do not require great volumes of oil..
  10. 1st. thing I would check is the governor & make sure the valve inside is moving freely. In all honesty the TH400 ONLY needs one ball & NOT six to work in the valve body plate. In the case of the '64 ONLY three. Built MANY of them this way. All depends on what each individual wants. Filling the clutch packs faster so there's LESS slippage in the clutches does NOT cut down on the life of the trans. My original '64 TH400 has over 300K on it & has NEVER been rebuilt/overhauled, removed, etc. Tom T.
  11. Today
  12. Well a couple weeks ago on a return trip from The Irish Hills in Michigan when the slight miss I had attributed to carburation error was a leaky head gasket on pass side head. I had used vintage Mccord copper gaskets , and they looked nasty, and leaky and rusty, for only being a few years old. I suspect improper head surface even though they had seen machine shop. I have learned that these are difficult to mount in most surfacer lathes. Im not gonna use those old gaskets ever...I'm pleased with the valley under intake, about 10,000 miles or so since overhaul, full synthetic oil changed occasionally seems to agree with it. clean! Modern felpro gaskets and Mr Scobels wonderfull looking new aluminum heads will hopefully function as well as the old iron ..If I'm driving old grey at The Gilmore this August, you'll know they work.
  13. Yer don’t they!! They might know somebody that knows somebody. They do some great kits.
  14. That’s a 1923. Same as mine.
  15. It's an automatically resetting breaker, it's under the driver's side kick panel. Small silver box with two wires. It's also the breaker for the power windows, it shows up under the window wiring diagram.
  16. I have never seen one bad before, and I suspect I caused it though a overzealous heavy thick paint job that gummed up the springs, which reduced the tension and allowed the plates to slip....ok now..But what a pain to remove / repair..
  17. Hi I relise American automobile forum ,and looking for British part , but quite a few of you guys have or have had an Austin Healey 3000 or 100/6 so as I’ve just bought a nice good condition horn push , desperately seeking the remainder of the trafficator assembly . Willing to pay good price plus all shipping charges. Please pm me cheers pilgrim
  19. Just seen that - will drop them a line. Boy those Ford guys have it easy!
  20. To your immediate question: the guy is talking out of his nether regions. It doesn't slam. Trouble is, the same guy who bodged it is (likely) going to be responsible for fixing it -- with the trepidation that entails. In the meantime, you might think about parking it, because repeated slams are more likely to break something than fix something. Does it act the same shifting into reverse from park and shifting into reverse from neutral? You might also stick your head under the car to see if the driveshaft moves when you shift into reverse. When you say it "still slams into reverse", that implies a preexisting problem. Check your motor mounts and the vacuum to the modulator.
  21. I have always wondered why the technical names for car parts differ so much between the USA and other English speaking countries.
  22. I believe it is a flap for a door map pocket inside the door panel. I have two photos of two different Humberette's with these flaps with the 'H' on them. I would guess they are original - but you never know - they could have been retrimmed in the dim and distant past?!?
  24. Thanks Mike for info on the pistons. I only managed to find a piston catalogue for Nural and Mahle pistons on line. Do you know of any other makes of pistons that may have catalogues on line showing the piston the dimensions, such as the crown height, pin diameter, etc for motorcycle pistons? I only know car piston manufacturers as the only motorcycles I have been involved with in the past has been veteran and vintage ones.
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