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  2. I am assuming this is similar/same as the '33 Plymouth as 33-34 Plymouth and Dodge shared a lot of mechanical designs. First, you should get a copy of the factory service manual. 1934 was the first year for that and you should be happy they made one and that there are (or were last I checked) people printing reproductions. Mine is a photocopy and the images are not good enough to scan. I'll quote from the Plymouth Maintenance Manual (First Edition, January 1934):
  3. Found a guy claiming to have one lens...
  4. Its not GM Lasalle buick olds pont caddy chevy! they did not use that type of escutcheon they used a ferrule.
  5. Yes,it's Jim O'Connor's stuff. He has a complete '29 Whippet coupe,but it needs the works.He parked it years ago when the tranny went out in it.A spare trans is sitting behind it. I don't know if there are any other parts, but imagine he would like to sell all the Whippet parts as a package. I didn't ask him individual prices but I think he would be very fair to deal with. The fifth photo of the ad shows the 1916 Chevy 490 roadster on the right and the Whippet coupe on the left.
  6. 1930 Model A Cowl. $250 For more information or photo's give me a call. 406-543-2591
  7. 1931 Model A Cowl. $250 For more information give me a call. 406-543-2591
  8. Ford 59A Flywheel Cover. $75 For more information or photo's give me a call.
  9. Jim, Is this in Morpeth by chance? Are there any late twenties Whippet parts you know of? Doug
  10. Contact the vendors in the Riview. I am sure that one of them will have one. I know Tim at Rivi Central had another on and I know Dan Jackson in Mi had a couple but, he is very slow in responding. Contact info for both is in the Riview. Bill
  11. Another 39. https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/colville-1939-chrysler-royal/6895652323.html
  12. The kittycoins seller on e-Bay has a few more Peerless parts F/S, including an engine. From Mr. Coffee's cars & parts supply.
  13. You could use a carpet grommet like Corvette. https://www.google.com/search?q=seat+belt+carpet+grommet&rlz=1C1CHBF_enCA819CA819&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiHl6bq3bLiAhUGHzQIHeTIBmYQ_AUIDygB&biw=1366&bih=625
  14. Going by this info the id could be right. https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?48981-Studebaker-Electric-Wagon-Restoration&fbclid=IwAR3ymu-TcPg4UORj7-76GXMjjxO-fOiiIv6bbHDOecIX5PshNrS6OwollMo
  15. This photo was posted on a facebook page. Taken in North Dakota. The photo date - going by the clothing - is 1920s or later.
  16. I started the engine for my Chrysler CD8 Roadster project this afternoon, as far as I know, first time it has been running in about 50-60 yrs. Rolling chassis I am using came from a 4dr sedan from NY into Virginia in the 60's as a barn find then, and sat unmolested since then. I purchased it in 2018 as a donor for my Roadaster project. To prepare for a start-up, did a lot of basics, rebuilt starter, generator, water pump, oil pump, fuel pump, had rad flushed and repaired, pulled head, removed all frost plugs and flushed block and head, full valve job (#8 exhaust was stuck solid), new head gasket new plugs, wires, points, rotor, condensor, serviced distributor, cleaned oil filter, installed modern carb ( NOS Carter from '69 Ford 300CI truck) new manifold gaskets, new exhaust pipe, temporary muffler, fresh fluids, etc. Temporary gas can and it started up on 3rd or 4th turn, runs very nicely for a 90 year old machine. Lots of blue smoke first 3-4 minutes (I had oiled cylinder walls before assembly), calmed down after that. Ran transmission thru the gears, everything seems free. Ran with 30+ lbs oil pressure, charging nicely, ran it up to about 140degrees on temp gauge (about 8-10 minutes) before it ran out of gas! Great feeling. Plan now is to do some further checks on compression, re-torque head bolts (I initially set at 60lbs), readjust valve clearances, then pull engine and transmission from chassis and send chassis for full sand blasting/priming before further diassembling suspension etc. Progress keeps me enthused.
  17. Looking for one for a 1966 ply Fury . Kings32
  18. Today
  19. Well the other cars I was looking at to replace the chevy in the keeper category fell through so at this point I'm pulling the car off the market. I will though be open to buying a project car for the coming winter Thanks
  20. well got a letter in the mail today from Bill (Uvira) he refunded my money, as well as cost to ship my reflectors out to him !! he asked that i send him the set that was sent to me on accident. I am good with that, and hope they find their home Have to say Bill has provided me TOP NOTCH customer service and i truly appreciate that !! something that you do NOT see or get much anymore anywhere. now just have to wait for my reflectors to get done at the plater.... ZZZzzzzz
  21. I am doing EXACTLY that bill requires. I have spoken to him many times before the original ones were sent, as well as since the incident of my lost reflectors. he needs a completely finished polished nickel surface. it is a vacuum alumization and a coating that goes. Bill used to do the entire process, but is older and slower now after his stroke, so has cut his leg work back to just the alumization vacuum process. you can google vacuum aluminization for mirrors (telescope/microscope) and see how it works, pretty cool technology from the 70's THANKS NASA !! he has done probably thousands of these since 1972 and is good at what he does and love what he does.
  22. so what would this extra vaccum port be for?
  23. well got a letter in the mail today from Bill (Uvira) he refunded my money, as well as cost to ship my reflectors out to him !! he asked that i send him the set that was sent to me on accident. I am good with that, and hope they find their home Have to say Bill has provided me TOP NOTCH customer service and i truly appreciate that !! something that you do NOT see or get much anymore anywhere. now just have to wait for my reflectors to get done at the plater.... ZZZzzzzz
  24. The Golden Age of the old car hobby for me was from 1975 to 1995. In 1975 I bought my first collector car, a 1929 Studebaker Commander, and joined my first car club. In about 1995-2000 I noticed a very distinct drop off in the number of pre WWII cars showing up at activities like shows and tours. Now, it is a pleasant surprise to see any number approaching a dozen of pre WWII cars at any kind of an even out here untamed wilds of Northern California. There are so many early cars from the 20s and 30s that I used to see regularly at various car meets. Now that the owners who used to drive them have passed on and their cars have disappeared. Another indicator of the passing of the Golden Age of old cars is the swap meets. In the 1970s I could find parts of a 1929 Studebaker at a swap meet or any number of period correct accessories. Now, when I do attend a swap meet, the only thing I get for my trouble is lots of sun exposure and exercise walking up and down the isles. One of the indicators of the transitions from the Golden Age of the old car is the switch from being able to find parts at swap meet to now having to hunt for them on the internet.
  25. If your new inner seals, both sides, are modern rubber lip seals, it seems it would be beneficial to install a vent. Best place would be about half way between diff. and hub. The brake pipe splitter mounting bolt might be a good one to use. Remember the diff. is in a fog of oil and foam (hopefully not too much foam with the oils of today) when the car is in motion.
  26. I’m looking for same adjustments on 34 dodge
  27. No. Read the claims for the stuff. https://evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-faqs/
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