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  2. Thanks Roy. Joe Suarez and I - both of us are running for the BOD - have decided that we are going if we are elected and will pay the appropriate late fee. If we are not elected, we will not be going. This is simply because for me I have a scheduled vacation with a foreign exchange student coming in from Germany in early August. If elected, though these tours sounds great, my focus will only be on the meet as a volunteer.
  3. Couple questions. My 64' does not have a clutch for the fan. I know I'm losing some horsepower at high rpms, but what was the standard option and should I consider putting a clutch in? My car is originally a non-A/C car, but Vintage A/C has been added. Which provides better cooling? Thanks and happy motoring this great weekend! Robert
  4. Buick only installed the return line on air conditioned cars. For a reason. Through testing and research. I'm not one of those Buick engineers. I just live with what they engineered. Probably even a better idea now that we're in the age of unleaded fuel.
  5. Clicking on the link leads me nowhere. That is the beauty of CL, easy access. I "guess" I am on Facebook but not sure how to get to these "marketplaces." I am always interested in early 88's.
  6. And expensive too! You will not break the bank with the Humberette!
  7. Very rare, I think, SILVER convertible, and from Phoenix AZ area so likely rust free variant. Trying to wean myself from both looking and posting here, but this is a nice one. Typical electrical gremlins it seems. But nothing that can't be sorted. Same wheels as my good friend's red coupe, which I agree are a great match to the Reatta. I have always liked Silver in Reattas and got close to a 1990 Silver coupe about 6 years ago but no budge on price. I have not seen that Silver coupe since, on CL or driving around. It's kind of amazing how some Reattas "disappear" after they pop up on CL. Anyway, I digress - although I normally don't care for grey interiors, this one has 16 way seats, has been converted with the Riviera wood grain dash inserts, and is set at a good price point and no worries about rust. Less than mine sold for.
  8. Hi everyone. I'm getting ready to roll my 39 Buick Special home. Each wheel drum has two bolts on the wheel face in line with the wheel lug pattern, along with the pin for lining up the wheel during install. Anyone know what these bolts hold internally? I'd rather not dig further into this until I've got it safely nestled in my garage. Thanks!
  10. You can buy the, our local auto parts house has them. Why change what the factory put in ?
  11. Just had an email back from the Vintage Radiator Company regarding the repairs to my radiator. I am glad I was sitting down when I read it. 'Ball Park Price' FROM £7,500! That's nearly as much as I paid for the car! I expect that is plus VAT of 20% as well! I will be repairing the radiator myself and will live with the dents - let's call it 'Patina'
  12. If it is a 74 block it will have lower compression and not quite a powerful as block from the 60's with the higher compression. Emission starting to take it's toll on horsepower starting the in the early 70's. The block my generate 250 hp. By 1975 the 455 made 205 hp.
  13. The doors are on the car now. I had to make new rubber door bumpers as the original ones were hard as a rock. The correct rubber to use is 30 durometer if you are looking. Not too hard, not too soft. Not expensive, and the 36" x 2" piece is enough to share with another Buick friend. The following is how they are cut. They sometimes take a little trimming to get them just right, but you can do that with a brand new single edge razor blade. I did find one place in Australia that carried them, but none in the US. They also sell replacement rubber for the door dovetails - as Bob's Automobilia does as well. I do not know the span of years these were used on, and if these are only for the open cars or closed cars as well. The old ones had a single nail thru them, but I do not know if that was original, or if someone did that to keep them from falling out. Hugh
  14. Old car guys discussing the current prices of cars and the one they bought 40 or 50 years ago may not be the most objective. Bring in an observer like my Wife. Tell her "Bernie bought that '64 Riviera for about two grand 40 years ago and and he says they are selling in the mid $30,000's today. He's figuring maybe the high 20's if he sells it." Mona Lisa didn't roll her eyes when she gave that little smile.
  15. A very informative description of the chroming process. Thank you Roger.
  16. Correct! Unlike magazines and monthly or quarterly newsletters, this forum provides prewar Buick owners a more immediate prewar focused resource for activities, parts, and technical information. It also serves as a meeting place for owners with similar vehicles to connect with each other. The BCA Prewar Division leadership also uses this forum to publicize prewar activities like prewar swap meets where our members often meet each other personally. It is not just a technical forum.
  17. If you have something ultra rare that's siblings are constantly moving the bench mark higher, then an auction is probably the way to go especially if you have not nearly what they are bringing in it, so a down day wouldn't crush you, but when working on the low end, unless the goal is to strictly liquidate, then probably not a wise decision to send to auction.
  18. If you are up to it, you may need to hand sell on your own with a starting price around the 43,500. My experience with dealers has been generally positive, and I understand the value they add to the transaction. Cleaning the car, proper photography, proper description and dealing with all the idiots that would drive me insane makes the 5-7% worth it to me. Maybe not to everybody though.
  19. Yeah, I was alluding to the hidden costs of not selling. Sometimes the buyer for your car is not in the room that day, or there is not two guys to get the price in selling range. But your car can be stigmatized by the low bid associated with the no sale.
  20. try the Ford Barn................
  21. They are all on Low-Riders in California. I sold Chevy parts in a previous life.
  22. Champion C4 spark plugs or AC76
  23. I am getting ready to install my safety glass, and I have all the rubber pieces now. I am needing some help on the weatherstrip details for the moveable windshield section. This is a 1925 Buick Standard. 1) Where does the hourglass weather stripping end? At the top of the bottom glass, which leaves a 1/4" gap on each side of the windshield to the frame, or does it run up to the pivot? 2) Which way does the windshield divider rubber get installed? (A or B ) On the upper or lower glass? All the windshield rubber set me back $180 with shipping so I wanted to get all the cuts correct. Any photos are appreciated. Thank you, Hugh
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