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I agree. Is the paint a subtle 2-tone, with the roof being a lighter color? Or is that appearance just the lighting in the picture? The apparent 2-tone makes the car more distinctive in my opinion.

Put the escutcheon on the handle, put the spring narrow end toward the handle, push onto the shaft and slide the retainer pin into the hole in the handle.

Dave, I have been involved in Model A's since 1968 and owned the one I have now and several since then. The so called "Rare Three Window Coupe" Model A subject has been around forever. Ford did produce an engineering prototype three window, (page 77 in the book The Ford Model A) but the car was never produced. The prototype three window did not have a windshield visor as this for sale picture shows. As with anything rare, documentation and proof is required and until Ford substantiates this rumor the car is just a 1930 Model A that some talented body man built. If it is the so called "prototype coupe" it won't have a sequential engine/chassis number.

Wow, a downdraft carburetor conversion! Leif, very nice! I should have done that on the one we restored last month. What carburetor are you using? Pete Phillips

For anyone interested in parts I have listed some highlights in the main post, including a 100% rust free front drivers side fender that came with the car.

I have acquired some items from a De Soto owners estate, which included a intact used engine, # SA 26754. There bell housing and flywheel were not with the engine. The engine has the correct fuel pump, distributor,water outlet. Intake/exhaust manifolds, generator and cut out, spark plug wire loom, water pump and non cracked fan. The crankshaft rotates. I removed the head and oil pan and there is no sign of damage and the engine is on a stand ready for your inspection. I am 40 miles north of Columbus Ohio. Don 740-816-4284

Did not know that..... I have a 1969 Chevy 3/4 ton and the gas filler is next to the driver's door, basically the tank is inside the cab and my back is to it ( not really a good safety aspect of the truck, they have kits to relocate them to under the beds ) Steve

@EmTee That’s one thing that kills me about this one, every Nash I’ve seen is usually a 4-door. I’ve always been a sedan guy, but 2 doors look really good on this car and they’re not common by any means.

@Buick35 Sarasota FL, 34243.

All that work and it doesn't run? Seems strange. The good news: if it's been in Nevada all that time there shouldn't be any rust issues.

@Restorer32 Haha, have to grovel at Jay Leno’s front door to have a chance of that happening. Even with his money he’d probably say she’s done. 😆

In the 1960s we would try to jack those cars up in the junkyard and the rear bumper was likely to uproot from the body. 15 years old or less at the time. A lot of my impression of various makes and models has carried over from those formative years. Nash has the Statesman, Super , and Ambassador. But it is like reading the ads today "All Buicks are Roadmasters unless it's a new Deuce N a Quarta". It's ether a Nash Rambler or Ambassador. A lot of stuff gets lost in those gray folds.

Hey Friends, The torque arm on my 1925 Packard 243 has snapped. In preparing to weld it back together, I noticed that to align the crack, makes the pin no line up. To correctly line up the pin, the crack has a significant gap. Any suggestions? Also, will this alignment impact the pinion angle on the two universal joints on the prop shaft and if so, what is the correct angle? Thanks!

Who's to say that Tuckers aren't $50,000 cars--or a bit less, or a bit more--instead of million-dollar cars? What's the inherent value in a low-production experimental car that's maybe not particularly road-worthy? A point to ponder: Wouldn't a fine-running Buick or Oldsmobile be MORE desirable for enjoyment, reliability, and actual use? I think a Tucker could be priced in that realm instead. Years ago, they evidently were!

This morning I removed the front floor pan on my 1948 Chrysler. Most happy that this car is rust free, having spent along time in California. Easy to take thing apart. The plan is to service the fluid clutch, transmission, and to snoop around for any other things I can tangle with. Then on to the main purpose for this mission, that is the replacement of the master brake cylinder. First and foremost in my plan is to CLEAN everything that I can access as I do not enjoy working on a greasy dirty mess.

I had my '18 E-45 do the same thing. Drove me nuts. In the end it turned out to be that the distributor rotor / cam had slipped as nsbrassnut mentioned. I have driven this car for over 50 years and this was a new one for me Note the "timing adjustment screw" to adjust the cam

Any information on these RYAN LITES? They are 12 inches across the front. The backside is more bullet shaped. They are very large headlights. Any information would be appreciated. Thank you.

I bought my first GTO in 1989 and still have it. It is white with dark turquoise interior, originally a 335hp 389 4bbl with a 2 speed automatic, now Tri-Power 4 speed. Anyway, soon after I bought it I wanted another one in the opposite color combination, that would be Teal Turquoise with parchment interior, and I wanted it to have been built to go with all of the performance options and no luxuries like a/c, power steering or power brakes. 21 years later I found and bought this one from the second owner. It has the original 389 Tri-Power and was special ordered with a close ratio 4 speed, 3.90 Safe-T-Track rear end, metallic brake linings, heavy duty fan, quick ratio manual steering, ride & handling package and the rally gauge cluster. The car also came with spinner hubcaps, redline tires, a console, tinted glass, seatbelts, outside mirror and a manual tune am radio. Soon after I bought the car I found an original/genuine Ram Air kit that makes the hood scoop functional. I could't be happier. The car needs a complete restoration. Not many dents or damage, mostly rust repair, new upholstery and rebuilding the engine etc.