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  2. Two volume set of '76 shop manuals, Electrical and Body/Chassis (includes engine and trans). I bought them privately for use with my personal cars, so they're used but not beat-up. $35.00 for both, postpaid by Media Mail in the lower 48 States. PayPal is OK.Harold
  3. Two volume set of '76 shop manuals, Electrical and Body/Chassis (includes engine and trans). I bought them privately for use with my personal cars, so they're used but not beat-up. $35.00 for both, postpaid by Media Mail in the lower 48 States. PayPal is OK.Harold
  4. This clock face was used on 1941 Studebaker cars and some "M" series trucks. Gold color. 1942 and 1946 used the same clock as this but with black dial instead of gold and these maybe have b been used on the trucks also but I am not sure. These clocks are difficult to find and very expensive.
  5. Paul, Getting new firestones 650 x19 as we speak. The same as Tony Adams. I like his covers . No shops like that in my neck of the woods. Any ideas?
  6. Bill, The TS 1000 is what I put on my 64 and we had to enlarge the inlet a tad to get it to fit as well. I'm wonder if the part # I posted might fit w/o having to modify it. Both parts look the same. Perhaps it might be just the difference in the inlet size. Perhaps we can talk Jan into buying one of each and comparing them for everyone and posterity.
  7. 1930 Buick Hearse with original 330 inline 6 motor, with 3 speed on the floor trans. I have a later model 318 v8 available to purchase separately. It has all the body panels and front windshield, 2 side windows. All the the tires hold air. All hinges, brake, clutch and accelerator linkages are included along with a list of other parts that I have for it. Clear texas title. For more details contact Eddie @ 903-241-29seven seven or 903-241-27one seven
  8. And would you believe it, she's wearing "Martin" tires ! Now, if I could only find an appropriately designed trunk for her. Mike in Colorado
  9. I found this picture on the Internet. It says it's a '65 Riviera shaft and I believe it is, as it looks very much like the one on my '67, which has the same U-joint arrangement.
  10. IF you can get that rubber spacer out of the way, you might be able to saw the bolt in half. Think that would be easier than trying to cut the head off. If you get the head off, you'll still have a long ragged threaded piece of iron to try and work away from the fender. If you saw it in half, you'll get the bumper off that way, but you'll still need to get what's left of the bolt out of the number then affect a repair so you can refit the bumper (unless you do like Tom T. does and just don't use those corner bolts.) Good luck, be careful with the paint.
  11. ptt

    1990 coupe w/146K

    The miss is obvious at idle only once it warms up and from then forward. Hills are even more "straining" to get up once the miss starts. Im going to try and dig out my injector noids to see if the injectors are ok. The main thing that baffles me is the fact that the engine only misses when car reaches operating temps. It runs fine upon cold start up with just a touch of the key! When it gets to the point it reaches operating temperature it like...pow...the miss starts. Also, I ordered a new ignition module for under the coils.
  12. I don't know anything about this car, but thought I would post it here so you can check it out yourself if you're interested; Supposedly original and runs well.
  13. Sir, In all cases I hope it comes out for you with less destructive means. There are always new and better ways to do things without tearing stuff up. TurBinator
  14. Yesterday
  15. Ed, the bolt that is there now is the only bolt in the world that will hold the bumper? I cannot see the problem in the pics very well. There is more than one way to do some jobs. I’d still cut the rascal out and find or make a facsimile of the original fastener. i will not say you are not correct, but I wouldn’t make love with bolt for long before I’d have to get it out. If burning it out is what it would take I’d shield the tank from the sparks. Turbinator
  16. This is the head I got with an engine someone gave me. The head to the engine originally in my 48’ (that I’ve already had cleaned and surfaced, and thus is going back on) has no markings and is not high comp. So your head may not be a replacement, it may just not have come with it. In somewhat related news, I guess I have a high comp head for sale.
  17. Terry, Thank you for the clarification on the wheelbase and also for keeping track of the records. It’s interesting that they would call it a sports model by changing the color and adding a few minor accessories. I do think a color change in 1925 was no small task. Really interesting that they used the serial numbers from the model 20 “closed cars” and not the model 25 “open cars” for a special production run of model 25 touring cars. Hugh
  18. Yea, more accurate way determine authenticity. Art
  19. The thing is you can't fix that car for 15K!, so how do you come out ahead buying that car? Engine overhaul and other engine miscellaneous 8,000 trans overhaul 1500 A/C repair 1500 Rust repair 5000 cheap paint job 8000 4 tires 320.00 Brake hydraulics 750.00 That's over 25K and I'm sure there's more wrong with the car than that such as worn out front end parts and suspension bushings front and rear and this just to get it to beater quality! Hello McFly!
  20. Years ago I read about how they made compound curved panels for house trailers out of paper in WW2. Wheel wells and roof corners. They had a mold and built up layer after layer of brown paper dipped in glue. Probably hot horse hoof glue. Today you would use fibreglass.
  21. Could you use several layers of the black roofing paper in pieces and do something like a paper mache shape? If you use the self-supporting type it's thicker and would need less layers, but you'd need an appropriate glue being as it's pretty oily.
  22. I'm guessing this has a replacement head then because I don't see any signs of that. Anyone has a picture? Phil
  23. That size sounds about right, yes....
  24. were correct that the ones that don’t require choke get very poor fuel mileage! And the mixture control is terrible. We use to comment that pouring raw gas into the engine from an old boot would be a better fuel delivery device than a Cadillac Johnson carburetor.
  25. Doesn’t look like the “real” one that was in the states in the 80’s and is now back in Europe. That was an assembled car from factory floor sweepings. This car looks way too small, and most of the details are way off........the story board is nothing but misdirection.
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