All Activity

I’ll try that tomorrow. Put my last new O ring in 2 days ago. I’ve been cycling the pump (with ignition switch) and haven’t driven it since. Still dry as a bone tonight. I’ll continue the cycling tomorrow and put some tissue below. Thanks for your help. karl

Nash was the first unibody car in the US with the Nash 600 in 1940. By 1949 all their cars featured unibody construction.

For Sale: 1941 Buick Super Series 51 4dr sedan, 63K miles - $9,500 - Potomac, MD 1941 Buick Super for sale by owner - Potomac, MD - craigslist Seller's Description: For sale: 1941 Buick Super Series 51 4dr sedan, 248 ci engine, dual carburetors, 63,000 miles, 6-volt system. I bought this car in 2006 and have put several thousand miles on it in that time. The previous owner had owned it since 1977, so only two owners in about 50 years! I have really enjoyed this car but have several other old Buicks and have run out of space (and time) to keep this one. The car was semi-restored around 1980 and was repainted the correct colors (Lancaster Grey and Silver French Grey but not the correct metallic). The paint has held up fairly well but with the nicks and dings you can expect with 40-plus years. The left rear fender has some minor dents and touch up paint and the right fender has some paint cracks but otherwise it is fairly presentable. The chrome is really nice, not quite show quality but still pretty. I would guess it was re-chromed around the time it was repainted. Whoever had the work done did not go the extra step to paint in the black details around the hood ornament and the hood louvers (where it says Super). The chrome spears on the fenders do have some pitting so they are probably original chrome, but the rest of the chrome is nice. I believe the interior is original, but the front seat has seen better days as it started ripping at the driver’s seat about ten years ago. There are various stains and pin holes as you might expect from 83-year-old fabric. When the car was painted back in 1980, the dash was painted body color rather than the proper woodgraining. The metal turned parts of the dash are presentable but not perfect. The radio (regular Sonomatic) works fine and the lights and all the gauges work, although the ammeter seems to have started to be hit or miss so I think there is a loose electrical connection in the dash. I replaced the temperature gauge about ten years ago and while not the worst job I have ever done, taking the dash apart again is something I prefer to leave to the new owner. The clock does not work. It has sat/been ignored more than it should have in the last few years so it could use some basic maintenance such as changing fluids and replace some seals/gaskets. The oil pan gasket in particular needs to be replaced as it has started to drip from there. I have a new gasket for it already, it is not a terrible job to replace it, but at this point I would rather leave it up to the new owner as I am knee deep into putting a 1934 Buick back together already. As with any old car, there are probably some other issues you will find along the way but that is all I can think of right now. As far as rust, except for a small area, it is pretty minimal as this appears to have been a well taken care of car. There is one area in particular that is pretty bad but you would be unlikely to ever notice unless I told you. Not sure why, but the flat bottom of the left rear door is pretty rusty and has several holes. The only way to see it is to be lying down and looking up at it. Overall, a nice reliable old car needing a little TLC that you can have fun with and take to cars and coffee and local shows. Pre-war Buicks of this era can easily keep up with modern traffic, are a pleasure to drive, relatively easy to work on and have lots of parts support. This is already a pretty wordy and overly long ad so I can provide a list of the major work I have done to the car and also a list of what I know to still be incorrect. I can also provide a lot more pictures and any details you might need. As a side note, the previous long-time owner is a very famous actor. I don’t think that adds a lot of value to the car particularly since you are now buying it from me (who is very unfamous) but it does make for an interesting story. Contact: No phone listed Copy and paste in your email: 0e09d1179c883c749bc8c37fcee09505@sale.craigslist.org I have no personal interest or stake in the eventual sale of this 1941 Buick Super Series 51 4dr sedan.

That’s fantastic! My grandfather made boilers for N&W here at the Roanoke shops from 21-52 and I’m still amazed at how they built them!

Its a tire rim tool

Far from the first. Lancia patented their version in the 1920’s. Some debate on whether earlier cars ( Lanchester, Ruler) had true unibodies.

Engine is a 235 cu in 115HP OHV six with seven main bearings. An excellent engine for its time, one finished in the money in the famed LeMans 24 hour race, under the hood of a Nash Healey.

I will

I have the flat oval ignition switch. I believe parts number 32975 and lever part number 19742.

I'm sorry for your loss. The car sinking in to the ground like that isn't doing it any favors. If you can, maybe try to get it pulled on to pavement or blacktop.

take some tissue paper and put it on the switch area and also put it under the reservoir and then watch to see where the leak is. There are two seals between the master cylinder and reservoir. On mine there was a very slow leak that only presented itself over the winter when the tank would bleed to almost empty.

It's a 1950. All are 6 cylinder. If it really is an Ambassador, and I think it is, it had a fairly large (250-ish ci) overhead valve six with full pressure oiling, lots of main bearings, etc., a better engine than many sixes of it's time. The downside is internal engine parts have become tough to get.

Thanks. I'm in North Carolina so not to bad a drive.

That's a really neat looking car. Hopefully it isn't as bad as you think it is.

@31nash880 I’ll let you know as soon as I find out, the car is currently in Florida.

If you can find a similar year Nash that needs work this one may furnish some good parts, I don't know. the 2 door Brougham body style is rare, maybe 10% or 20% of production, the rest were 4 door sedans. There was a similar rusty 2 door for sale near me about 10 years ago. I briefly considered buying it, shelling out the body and putting it on a newer platform but gave up the idea.

I've enlarged the photo and agree it seems as if someone has tried to repaint or touch up around the lettering. Even the Packard has some issues. To me the blue color is off too. I'm beginning to wonder...is it genuine? I'd recommend opening it up and looking at the back of the glass before buying. Orinals were not painted by hand. Visible paintbrush marks would tell the truth about its authenticity. Terry

@Rusty_OToole Really? That is good to know, never knew about that. I’m leaning that way too, I don’t see this car ever hitting the road ever again but I’d love to see it get another one going again.

There is no frame. It's a unibody. It is shaped like a truss bridge, and more or less that is how it's built. If you look under the hood you will see the members that send the load up into the roof. The "frame" members under the floor are mostly sheet metal and are loaded in tension. Don't jack this car up by anything except the axles or wheels. The bumpers should be OK too, and the normal way to change a tire or whatever, but as rusty as that looks I would want to inspect first before trying that. Even when the car isn't rusty there is a risk if tweaking the unibody if you try to jack on the "frame". Don't do that. It also goes for torque tube Ramblers. Don't try to put it on a modern hoist that lifts on the "frame". That will go badly even without the rust. If it were less rusty, the main place I would be telling you to look is under the mats/carpet in the front floorboards. Windshield leaks pool water there and rust through the "frame rails". You might find the top and bottom missing and the vertical "sides" still there. The "sides" consist of sheet metal walls and one piece of metal that is thicker but with big round holes in it. This is bad, but not nearly as bad as it sounds because those "frame rails" are loaded in tension. Lots of them drove around like that, no big deal. Inconvenient to fix? Yes, but that's mainly because you couldn't jack the car up normally, and you couldn't do that anyway. That much visible rust is concerning. It might be ready to collapse.

If you get the hood open and find a straight 8, I may be interested in it. Also depends on where it is located.

Go to Acme Gear near Mt. Clements, Mi. They have made gears for me. https://acmegearco.com

John just making sure it was you and not my dad making this post! 😊 Not sure how many times I have heard that over the years signs, pumps, smalls...

Those Buckeye jacks show up on eBay occasionally. You can make the handle from some flat stock if you can’t find one. Not much to them. I was able to accurately recreate the tool kit that came with my Light Six including the hard to find Michelin tools that came with the disc wheel option. The tool bag is the correct color too. It was based of remnants of an original that survived. I am interested to know what this was for. It looks like part of a Conibear trap 😁

You don't need to worry about the frame - there isn't one. Nash was one of the first cars to go with unit construction, maybe the first. Have a mechanic or body man look it over, under the hood, in the trunk and under the car. I hate to say it but it looks like you were given a parts car. Incidentally the Ambassador was top of the line with seven main bearing OHV six cylinder engine. Hydramatic is the icing on the cake, a rare and expensive option back then.

My ticket was $80.00 and fees. Prices vary depending on when you purchase them, and what level of extras you want.