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It seems like this discussion comes up every few months. As noted it all depends on the state the car will be registered next. The fine print matters. With CT as example, cars older than 20 years aren't provided title at DMV...except per state statute a new title will be created if the customer so demands and pays for it. So if eventually it is to be sold out of state this could be done for a future customer/transaction is deemed helpful. Also if a car is sold within CT to a new in-state owner whereby the current title is lost, a replacement is not necessarily needed if the prior title is still valid, without lien, and as noted the car is re-registered in the state - this is stipulated on the website. Also if a car is brought into state from a non-titled locale a supplemental form substantiating ownership is filled out and submitted to DMV (obviously the state recognizes if it is not routinely titling older cars then the reciprocal issue occurs). Other states may not be so accommodating in these ways though. Thus in these specific examples not having title is not a dead end.

As you have reflected many times with your post "It's part of the Car Hobby Game", How nice it is to be able to fix it yourself. Most of us are "self taught" Pictures of the bad teeth remind me of being in a "Waffle House "at 3AM.

Thanks guys! With this information, you have led me down the path to installing a top holder. With the pictures you posted, I started looking through a parts box that came with the car and found what I think are the correct Top holders, 170548 and 170548. I did not find the mounting plates but I think they will be easy enough to make. I am not sure about the 3 leather straps. Ideas?

Maybe he hasn't taken very good care of it but he did add some later Mustang alloy wheels and a pair of CA license plates to sweeten the pot..........I'll bet he himself paid closer to $4000, or maybe even $1400 or less for the car. At $14 grand there will be a very limited market for this one. I just don't see the attraction. That $14K could be better spent on something else. I saw some some better buys in that price range at Carlisle this past week.

Jack - do you have any personal dealings with a Pinto? In a different lifetime, I worked as an engineering technician for an electrical power company. One year, we had to replace some of the vehicles used by the various departments. Accounting was to get two cars, and engineering was to get two cars. Since the company for appearance sake had to buy from both local dealers of American cars, we had a choice between Pintos and Vegas. One of the responsibilites of my boss was the engineering budget. Knowing I was a "car guy", he asked for input. Accounting had already put in their request for two Vegas, as the Vegas were more luxurious. I suggested to gracefully "lose" the selection to accounting and they would then owe engineering a favor. I suggested to buy the Pintos with 4-speed manual transmissions, the 2.0 engine, and have them undercoated. Accounting bought the Vegas, both with auto transmissions. We got the Pintos. We used the Pintos like we should have had Jeeps, quite a bit of the mileage being off-road. Both Vegas lost their engines before 25,000 miles were logged, and were traded. By the time I left the company for other pastures, we had logged more than 200,000 miles on each of the Pintos. Maybe the "model T Ford" of the 1970's??? I would guess the lack of undercoating sent many of them to the scrapper; but the 2.0 engine/4-speed was darn near indestructible. Jon

I would post on the Durant page asking to borrow a puller with a deposit. This is some what time consuming and needs a helpful Durant member who has a puller. I have lent some of mine out several times and with a $125. deposit they always come back. I don't have your thread size.

here is a print from my collection by Peter Helck entitled Safe on the R.R. Siding. this is print 38 of 500 and is in great condition. the print depicts the Thomas Flyer safe on the siding after recieving permission to use the union pacific track as they were snowbound in Wyoming and only the railroad was clear. the Flyer was limited to only four hours use of the track and they just made it to the siding as numerous flats held up their progress before the San Francisco Express came through. the frame measures 24x30 inches. this print by Peter Helck, one of America`s most noted illustrators and a man who lived a good part of what he painted will be a marvelous addition to your collection. i am asking $175.0 for the print and you can contact me at 610-653-4573 or through email at fshairydog@aol.com

A.J.: It's a matter of taste, though the consensus seems to weigh toward the 1963 with its elegant grille textures and squared-off trunk lid. The 1963 models finally got the 4-barrel carburetor again after that absurd foray into 'economy' 1960-'62 430's beset with 2-barrel carburetors. The '61 'potted headlights' front grille is more visually interesting but a bit heavy-looking for such a clean design. Yes, these are among the most expensive, complicated 1960's cars to work on and restore. Worst, in my view, Ford skimped on many aspects of these cars for their initially high prices: poor rust protection and body drainage, an electrical system no better than any of their other products, interior materials that did not wear or age well, needlessly complicated features such as the hydraulic-powered windshield wiper system. The unibody was very solid but excessively heavy and even minor collision damage condemned many of these early to the junkyard because the cost to repair that all-welded front clip. I followed these as new and used cars in the 1960's-1970's, loved them from the first 1961's I saw pre-introduction in November 1960. The survival rate for the convertibles is high for such a low production car. They were beginning to be collected in the early 1970's even as worn out, rusty, rundown used cars. The causes for their popularity now are as cultural nostalgia touchstones of the JFK "Camelot" era. Steve

Well, there were cameras even back then... 😉 ... or at least I had a couple and still have most of the photos, including stacks of disassembly, restoration, etc, I took back then (my wife recently scanned all to digital format and organized them in my computer files), although with exception of couple of my own cars I still own from those days, the cars in them are long gone and who knows where they are today. 😳

"Pardon the ramble. Overpopulation's traffic prevents enjoyment of a vintage car anytime other than before 9am weekends." Truth! After lunchtime everyone is up your tailpipe and has a look on their face that says, "You should not be on my road today."

The seller might have wiped down the water drops left on the windows and horizontal surfaces after he hosed it down. He also forgot to roll up the drivers window, spraying the seat. I don't think I'd pursue this car thinking that the current owner (seller) isn't/hasn't taken much care of it and the pictures seem to prove the point.

Another element to consider: Unless we are talking about something exceedingly rare or valuable (virtually regardless of condition), there is almost no reason to buy a car without a title. I know low prices are attractive and that there can be sentimental attachment, but when you really stop and think about it, there's probably another one out there somewhere that's available without the headache associated with not having a title. It's another angle to the "buy the best you can" motto that is often repeated in old car circles.

Looking for a set of Apache hood inserts shown in the picture. I have seen them on eBay for $200 plus 😲 so not looking to spend that much. I do have another set of inserts I'm willing to trade for the louver style ones. Thanks!

Could the dipstick be incorrect and "FULL" actually overfills the crankcase? Maybe try sticking a wire (e.g. coat hanger or welding rod) into the dipstick hole and measure the distance to the bottom of the pan. Compare with the dipstick and distance to the crankshaft centerline.

Found in PA.

Yes. My wife's 2006 Mercury Mountaineer. Traded in for a 2023 Traverse. My wife was visible upset she traded in her Mercury she had so many memories in. Three weeks after it was traded in I found it on a used car lot. I traded in my KIA for it and paid the difference. The Mercury I delivered back to my wife. She was thrilled. I get to drive the new Traverse. It was a win win for me.

A.J.: You might, make contact to find out. These little Studebaker Champion business coupes have the most extreme proportions since the firewall-to-front-axle plane is so short, something like only 13 inches. They look even more extreme than the Mopar business coupes. Steve

Neat pics. That barn is kinda like belt and suspenders. Overhead and carriage doors at the same opening!

Probably the least attractive body style Cadillac produced in '41. The red wheels and seemingly too small tires don't add to it's appeal. My Dad drove a twin to this car for five years before my mother convinced him that a Buick would better fit their "station in life". The words were spoken ...and it was Buicks thereafter.

Looking for a set of Apache hood inserts shown in the picture. I have seen them on eBay for $200 plus 😲 so not looking to spend that much. I do have another set of inserts I'm willing to trade for the louver style ones. Thanks!

Good idea. I'll edit the thread title accordingly, maybe get some more eyes on it. It's a Flint / Walker-Weiss Axle with Brown-Lipe gear assembly. The spider gears are stamped "4064" Dimensions: Diameter: 2.64" Inner Diameter: 0.75" Thickness: 0.93" Tooth width at thickest point: 0.31"

What is a fair application of the law? Better yet, drive the speed limit.

Power problem is resolved and it was a lot of work and chasing items that were not needed. However, I got a valve job, a new piston, and a ring job, resurfaced the head, and a carb rebuild out of the ordeal... so it's now a pretty solid running car! Embarrassed to say it, but sometimes the simple things shouldn't be overlooked. I had watched the spark jump from each wire to each plug - no issues. Assumed it meant all was well and good. I reset the points, replaced the coil, replaced the condenser, etc. I was certain the distributor was solid... it was idling great and I could clearly see spark at the correct times on each cylinder, when I tested them ONE AT A TIME. After I had the engine back together after my piston ordeal, and it still didn't have power, I thought what the heck - I may as well check the points one more time. It wasn't until I had the distributor cap in hand and was going to put it back on that I held it in just the correct angle such that the light hit it properly to expose a crack that ran between THREE of the terminals on the underside of the cap... the thing was basically triple firing on three of the cylinders. It's surprising it would go down the street under it's own power at all! I checked with my meter for continuity from the lower and upper side of each of those terminals when I was doing my original tests, and they all checked fine - but I didn't even think to put my meter BETWEEN two terminals. After seeing the hairline crack in the cap... yep... the meter showed a path of no resistance between 3 of the 4 terminals in the cap! Problem solved! Lesson learned! And now I can at least pass this along to others so I can save all of you the better part of a year off the road, when 10 minutes changing out a cap was all that was needed!! The old cap now sits on my shelf as a reminder to check and double-check for all possibilities on the small stuff BEFORE tearing into an engine assuming the problem must be inside because you feel you've eliminated everything... check again! Process of elimination only works if you eliminate/test all possibilities, and clearly this was one I overlooked when I only tested the spark one-by-one. At the end of the day, I did discover that the internals had a few issues that are now resolved, so eventually tearing into it would have been needed... but I probably could have been fine postponing that for the next 10-15 years based on the kind of mileage the car gets! Oh well... live and learn. It's a fun solid-driving car now, and the additional stuff I did in the engine just makes it better! Thanks for checking. I know I've commented on this in other posts previously, but should have returned back here to conclude the story for those that come in and read it later. Now you know! 🙂 Thanks again to everyone who helped with this!

Steve, did you say the 63 has the most desirable styling? I can't think of a more expensive 60s car to work on.

I like 3 windows. As a graduate of Shrewsbury HS class of 82 I wonder if I know the seller?