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  2. Did some steering box adjustments according to the book of information and that made a good difference. Will also replace kingpins etc and do a toe adjustment. Thanks for the advice.
  3. Post is from a loooong time ago(2005).
  4. Wow.... I am a total noob but I would dearly love to give this gal a home in South Carolina! She is begging to be helped along.
  5. Changing the subject only slightly, what seems like a very long time ago I rescued a (Fiat) OSCA roadster from a boat builders yard here in Australia on Port Phillip Bay. It was a magic little (1500cc) car but as with nearly all my projects it was run in some local Historic Racing events before being sold. It appeared once or twice driven by the son of the purchaser, never to be seen again. The photograph with it parked next to a Mini gives you some idea of its size. Where is it now? It had a fabulous 1500cc 4 cylinder 2-OHC engine that just loved to "Rev". It just goes to show, I have had some interesting "Post WW2" Cars too. This one as with so many of my project cars has dissapeared from sight. No Doubt shut up in someones "Private Collection". Bernie j .
  6. I asked my good friend Phil Skinner (journalist, auction reporter and number expert) and he replied: Jim, I’ve seen this also. Found this on an K V12 In Texas back in 2014. Phil SO???? Maybe it is some kind of FoMoCo Lincoln thing????
  7. Today
  8. At least it is not crawling with poison ivy like my place is. I have been infected by it, and I don't even remember touching it. BTW that is a vintage vehicle at the left edge of the photo.
  9. Perhaps not a photograph but a heavily re-touched one. Here two of the Firefly Speedster taken in Louisville The first one has to be one of my favourites taken on the actual Kentucky Wagon Co factory floor where the car was first built. The second one at the AACA Anniversary Show also at Louisville. This brings me to the point of all this. Does anyone have any up to date info on where the car is now and if it has been driven (ever)? Bernie j.
  10. I have mostly craftsman, but now they are being made in China. Kobalt and Husky I consider to be like Harbor Freight, made in China. I have broke some of their socket extensions because such poor quality steel. They are probably better now though. As far as combination wrenches, I often find the longer ones are much better, especially for hard to reach and tight, rusted fasteners. See how much longer this Bonney wrench is than your regular Craftsman. It is like Snap-on, quality steel, seems to fit tight, little flex. I got one like this at Harbor freight, for only about $10 and find it very useful. 1/4 inch drive, swivel head, good for lots of small fasteners. It is a knock-off of a Snap on ratchet. The Snap-on version is $130.00 !!
  11. Then it could be considered mail fraud and that is a federal offense. There is such a thing as the US Postal Police and that is their job. I would suggest contacting the local postal police in your area and they will get the ball rolling. Twenty years ago I had a similar situation about 3 weeks after I contacted the US Postal Police the part arrived after about 6 months of excuses. Worth a try. Good Luck
  12. Yes, they reportedly introduced the additional brake drums on the rear wheels and additional pedal in 1902. I have a collection of pictures, about 300 in total of early Locomobiles and can only identify about two cars with these drums on the rear wheels. One is a 1901 Style 2 runabout. Many pictures are of later cars 1901 and up, runabouts, Surreys, Dos-a_dos, long wheelbase runabouts and they are not present. I'm guessing they were only on some cars. Maybe a special order option? Of the two cars I can find with these drums, they differ, so I'm not certain of their authenticity. According to the 1902 year, the 1901 car may have rear wheels from a later vehicle. But not necessarily, I don't think anything was etched in stone, I think Locomobile used whatever they had or available to get vehicles completed. The rear differential is good example of that. The open differential like mine was supposedly dropped in 1901 and an enclosed spur gear was introduced in 1901, but there are many examples of later cars with the open differential. In 1902-3 they introduced a new differential similar the early one with bevel gears enclosed in a cast case with two brake bands on the differential, also an uncommon feature found on surviving examples. The ratcheting devices for a "park brake", I think were an after market item. -Ron
  13. A good friend has an older, otherwise excellent restoration of a post-1932 Pierce V-12. When Pierce adopted hydraulic lifters in 1933, the Company began using full-flow filters, WHICH HAD 1/2-INCH SUPPLY AND RETURN LINES. This car was restored with 1/4-inch lines suitable for bypass filters but not capable of the volume needed for a full-flow filter, resulting (when the previous owner acquired it) in 10 psi oil pressure. The previous owner bypassed with a modern 1/2-inch hose, giving 50 psi--saving the engine. Fortuitously, before that the car was strictly a show car rolling on and off trailers, so apparently no damage was done. The point of this story is to recommend thorough consideration of the size of lines in and out of a full-flow filter if you are planning to use one where a bypass filter was factory equipment.
  14. I guess I need to get my artist brush out now.....
  15. TJ Richards was an South Australian builder of bodies. And eventually bought by Chrysler.
  16. Well, the weather has been nice enough but no chances to get the cars out yet... life has been very busy so far this year! I’ve been able to put only about 60miles on the wagon so far but record setting gas prices here are not helping the urge to drive! I put non ethanol 94 in both cars... (And that’s per liter)
  17. While not a Packard expert this appears to be a 426 or 433. This would make it a full classic per the Classic Car Club of America. In my book a car with either 126 or 133 inch wheelbase would be a car I would love to be behind the wheel of. I think I could live with 6 cylinders.
  18. You could look at pawn shops too.
  19. I want to purchase a 4 cylinder Buick or McLaughlin from the last series pre-1920. Touring car only and either restored or a survivor in running condition. Will look at all cars in that category. Not much interested in showing. The car is to be a tribute to the first automobile in our family. I’m located in western Canada. Thanks in advance for any leads. I love the forums in this group. Ed
  20. Chrysler Corp began making engines in Canada in 1938. From then on there were differences between US and Canadian made motors. If your Dodge has the Canadian motor it will measure 25" at the cylinder head. US motor, 23 1/4"
  21. In recent years I have been impressed by the quality of cheap tools for sale at my local Canadian Tire store. They are nicer than my 50 year old Craftsman tools. I am not saying they are as good as Snap On but they cost about 1/10 as much, and are plenty good enough for a home hobbyist. I am sure they sell the same tools at chain stores in your area.
  22. Hummmmm. . . .I will need to check the books but as I remember the number on the engine mount is the "real" number. Late information - my books indicate that the motor number is below the "number one cylinder". So perhaps the 4223 is in the correct place? Notice that the fonts do not match. The motor mount K5790 looks like a 1930s stamping. The K4223 looks like the font that comes from a stamp set you would find in a repair garage. PERHAPS. . . . the engine/crankcase was swapped at one time?? (although it is a low mileage original car) and the 5790 engine was placed in your 4223 car. (think about all the old Duesenberg J motor swaps in the 50s) The collector(?) owner wanted it to look correct so they stamped the body/serial number in what I think is the wrong place, but still accessible for verification. If the Lincoln with number K5790 still exists (and it is perhaps a valuable open car?) then possibly your original, low mileage, sedan motor might pushing it around. . .? Per my books: 1935 numbers range from 3501 to 4919 1936 numbers are 5501 to 7014. . . .
  23. The broken collar is the hard part to replace. Can you give dimensions, like the pivot pin size and outside diameter? Maybe there is another more common one that can be adapted.
  24. Thanks Matt. I tried to thank you by clicking on the like button but got this. Really not understanding why a forum software gives a hoot about how many likes you give in a day🙄 Got any ideas @Peter Gariepy
  25. All filters were bypass filters until the introduction of hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters can be bunged up by a small piece of dirt or sludge. I believe full flow filters were developed for hydraulic lifter engines. Any filter is better than no filter at all. A bypass filter cleans all the oil, just not all at once. Compare it to a pool filter that takes in only a small amount of water, but in a day or 2 will make a murky pool sparkling clean. One interesting comment was from a Studebaker expert. He said he had disassembled and rebuilt hundreds of Studebaker V8s. There was no measurable difference in wear or cleanliness between full flow and bypass filter motors. When the Stude V8 was introduced in 1951 it had a bypass filter - and solid lifters. Even though the supposedly superior full flow filters had been available for several years, Studebaker engineers chose the bypass type. They did not adapt the full flow filter until the early sixties. This expert said he would not pay a premium for a full flow filter engine even though many people do. Short answer, keep the bypass filter, make sure you use the correct type (fine) filter element and change it according to the manufacturer's recommendation. With today's laser electronic thermometers it would be a simple matter to keep tabs on the oil filter temperature, and replace it when it starts to run cool. This is a sign that it is plugged up and not flowing oil. Use good quality detergent oil and change it regularly. 10W30 or whatever the manufacturer recommends. Do not think you have to run thick oil or non detergent, that is a myth.
  26. Its right next to the zerk fitting for the muffler bearing.
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