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  2. Those 50 year old Craftsman are the right vintage! They are great. I use them, along with SK, Proto, Blackhawk, etc etc etc. Unless they are worn out, no need to replace those Craftsman. Especially with new Craftsman. I like to buy Snap-On used (Ebay) if the price is good. If you make friends with the Snap-On truck, sometimes he/she sells used tools that they have repossessed. I really really really suggest buying the Snap-On flare nut wrenches. The RXS series combination open and flare nut. I do not understand spending $10K on a Snap-On tool box, when the Harbor freight ones work just as well! Note, coupons do not work with tool boxes.😁 I am not a fan of battery tools, I like air tools. I am tired of having to buy new battery tools every 10 years. Anyone want some Snap-On impacts and drills from 20 years ago? How about Milwaukee 12 volt drill or 18 volt impact? Junk today! The pneumatic tools are doing just fine after 30 years! And if they fail, I get Snap-On to rebuild or replace. No such guarantee with their rechargeable tools!
  3. Check all the sockets for rust or corrosion. Also check the mounting for the various lights to make sure the grounds are good. The parking lights and the rear lights are self grounded (no separate ground).
  4. If you are looking to build a new tool box, I suggest you look at abandoning your air tools and going the rechargeable route. I've almost completely switched over to Milwaukee M12 rechargeable tools and am very happy. They are a very good value for the money. The tools work very well, don't weigh much, are quiet, and have proved to be reliable. The batteries don't take long to charge. Also, you can build your collection by purchasing just the bare tool itself, without having to pay for another battery and charger. You can run all day using a set of 3 batteries. For really stubborn bolts I plan on buying the Milwaukee M18 1/2 rechargeable impact wrench. 1,000 ft-lbs of fastening torque and 1,400 ft-lbs of unfastening torque. I've recently purchased a turbine air system to paint my cars, so my air compressor is now only used to fill tires - and I can get a rechargeable tool for that, too. Your sockets and wrenches have served you well. Maybe you don't need to replace them, but just look for better ways to use them. Oh, and replace all your garage lights with LED types. Twice as bright as fluorescents, with a kindler, gentler light. Although I wouldn't blame you for buying new sockets that have larger numbers etched onto them. Why did they ever make it so hard to identify the socket size? Keep us informed on what you do. P.S. Although I am not a Snap-On fanatic, I have found that their screwdrivers are absolutely the best I have ever used. They grip like nothing else. You simply must buy a set.
  5. As said. I have the 18th, 1952 edition. From eBay ($80):
  6. Try measuring back at the flasher jumper wire with a signal on and the bulb in. Does it drop to 4.1v back at the jumper wire too?
  7. Craig Gillingham, @ keiser31, Thats been hanging on the Shop wall for half a Century and all people could say in the I,D, was dabblameit, but I say thank you!
  8. Don't get rid of your old stuff..... My tools are a mixture of Snap-On, Matco, SK, Mac, etc. I have to agree that the cheap stuff isn't as good, but it is WAY better than it was just a few years ago. As recently as 25 years ago, cheap tools were generally unusable crap. The gap between cheap tools and real tools is disappearing. Harbor freight tools are made of good steel these days, and are nicely finished. Although IMHO nothing works quite as well, or fits bolt heads as tightly as Snap-on/Matco/Mac/SK, Harbor freight wrenches are good enough today you might even get away with using them in a professional setting. It would have been completely impractical to use cheap tools in a professional setting in 1990. Kobalt looks similar, but I haven't used them much. Craftsman is not as good as it was. They are still good usable tools, but, sometimes a little too thick, sockets a little too recessed, and so on. The quality is variable. They are a far cry from 1990s Craftsman, let alone 1950s Craftsman.
  9. If you hook up with a student at a trade college. They get the tools at 1/2 price.. I got my kid cornwelltools and Matco ..
  10. Been there, done that on my stuff verses other stuff. Know the pain.
  11. Castor, camber and toe in need to be correct. These are the first things to check.
  12. While there are a lot of things in the recent minutes that might raise a few eyebrows, the one where 3 board members approved the minutes over the objections of 5 board members concerns me. After reading about that action that I would encourage all of the present board members to read the following two links, which might be of benefit to all of the board members. After many years serving in all positions in a Non-Profit including President, Vice President, Treasurer, and Secretary, the failure of the minutes to be corrected to allow the entire board to review the actual text that they were expected to vote to approve is a significant red flag to me. The approval of those minutes by three votes was improper. No matter who gets elected to the board, I certainly hope to see ALL of the new board working together in the best interest of the entire club. Hopefully they will learn from the mistakes of the recent past so that they can work together better.
  13. Here is an interesting article from Haggerty that some of you might find of interest. I had a '63 Buick Special with one of these engines and it was a strong runner.
  14. What he said. Take a look at your tools, pick them up and notice how they feel in your hand, note the sharp edges and the finish. Now - go to Lowes or any other big box store and pick up a Kobalt, or "new" Craftsman. See how they feel in your hand,look at the edges and think how tightly they will grip a nut, turn the ratchet mechanism and see how smooth it is or isn't.... Then find someone with SK, Matco, Snap-on etc and feel the difference. If you buy new you need to pay the price for quality. I gave up on new (except in emergencies where I needed the tool right now) a long time ago. Try used tool stores, garage sales, auctions, etc. and you will find good used tools at reasonable prices that will last and feel good in your hand....
  15. I had planned to make one more post about another car in the family on the maternal side that I thought belonged to my great grandfather. It is a picture I long remember, of my great grandfather and my great grandmother. The car is off to one side and for the most part only the rear is visible. It is parked just outside of a garage with one door open.The picture is one of the oldest I have. So, I wrote the post, and posted it. I thought the car in it was going to be too difficult for me to find on my own. It had one notable feature that I had been unable to find in searches - an oval window at the rear of the car. Not as large as other windows in other cars, certainly not rectangular, and just one window not more. Then I had a bit of an inspiration. I thought if his son owned a Buick, maybe the father owned one, too. So I focused the search on Buick alone and sure enough I found one. It looked familiar, and well it should. It was the same as the car that resulted from this search. The car in my great grandfather's driveway was the same car as the one in my grandfather's driveway. I removed the other post once I understood. So here is another photo, an older photo, of what I believe to be the same '23 Buick Country Gentleman, with my great grandfather and great grandmother having their picture taken, car in the background. Because of my great grandfather's advanced age (70 at the time the car was built), I now think he must have bought the car new only to pass it down to his son after a short period of ownership. It's an interesting parallel to the related post about the '35 Chevrolet Master DeLuxe sedan which turned out to be my grandfather's car being driven by his son. My great grandfather died just shy of his 80th birthday, in 1933. A close up of the car only with something similar to compare it to...
  16. When driving my 1923 Dodge I find the steering very stiff at low speeds. I have correct tyre pressure and when the front wheels are jacked up off the ground the steering seems easy lock to lock with no binding etc. I have never driven another old Dodge so am not sure if this stiff steering is normal. Any advice out there?
  17. I am having an issue with my turn signal operation of my all stock (6 volt) 1955 Thunderbird. I've had the car for 22 years and the turn signals worked perfectly in the past. The deterioration I'm experiencing happened over the last 2 years. It was very gradual so I didn't notice it until it became cronic. The issue is the turn signals burn so dim that, even at night, you can barely see them. It affects the front lights, the rear lights and the dash indicators. I have collected the data on it's current operation: The battery voltage ias 5.97 volts (motor off, ignition switch on). At the rear socket, for reference, with no bulb installed, the parking lights are 5.6 volts (both sides same). When you hit the brake light, the voltage available in socket is 5.94 volts, yielding a normal brake light (agan, both sides same). Now to the turn signal. I measured the voltage on the wire feeding the flasher and there is 5.74 volts there. To make the bulbs stay on, I put a jumper wire across the flasher, sending the 5.74 volts to the turn signal switch. When selecting either side, both left and right measure 4.1 volts. Now we know why they are dim. The interesting thing when you put the rear bulb in it's socket and watch the front turn signal or the dash indicator, the brightness drops quite a bit, indicating the voltage must fall below 4 volts when the load of the bulb is added Some times, the flasher does flash. Other times, it does not. Nothing consistent. Question is: Any idea what would cause both sides to have only 4.1 volts at the socket in the rear? It's not like one side is higher or lower than the other...they are almost perfect at 4.1 volts each. Have you ever experienced or heard of anyone with this issue? Can you suggest any further voltage measurements that may be useful. I have all the manuals for the car (shop and electrical) and they offer no troubleshooting help beyond what I've done. For the record, both tail lamp bulbs are correct. I have a feeling the problem is something relatively simple. Thanks much for your help John Hess York, Pa.
  18. Today
  19. SK, Matco, Snap-On come to mind for really good tools. Old Craftsman was good in the day. Good reliable tools don’t come cheap.
  20. No, if you want to release all that crap and circulate it through the engine, detergent oil won't do. Get some Rislone. I once had an old sludged up Ford 352 that had a noisy lifter. I put a can of Rislone in, and then I had 16 noisy lifters.
  21. Thinking of purchasing some new tools. I currently have SK Wayne sockets ,ratchets etc. Wrenches are craftsman. I have had these tools for over 50 years. Building a new tool box for my new shop. What would be your choice? Kobalt from Lowes or craftsman ?Maybe something else if you suggest it. Thanks for your advise.
  22. Hardly a horror story. Drain fill fix. Simple as can be.
  23. No you have me thinking there will be a grease fitting somewhere for the shrouded fan.
  24. I was just thinking that my Plymouth/DeSoto ad printing block would be in the same category as the Hupp item.
  25. I welcome Email inquiry and often then send them a big file full of photos. That usually ends the inquiry and the car is either sold or not. I hate the phone where guys waste your time for hours and never come to look at the car. Even better if they are on their cell phone and have crappy service so they keep fading in and out, then you get cut off and are talking to dead air.
  26. Thanks guys. Sold to a gent who has a long waiting list of T restorations and bodies for clients for his own personal enjoyment. Happy to see it go where it will get done right, but this sure would have been great for a young hobbyist.
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