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  2. This picture was for sale on Etsy with no information. Looks to me to be Japanese military headquarters in a foreign country late 1920's or 1930's. Anyone recognize the 3 cars of the same make on the left? Howard Dennis
  3. EmTee thanks for the write up. You always have something constructive to add. I think you might have motivated me to dig into and clean up and lube my passenger window that has been dragging for months.
  4. My guess is a 1930-31 Model A Ford Roadster with a 1932 radiator shell. Motor is either a Model A or B Ford with an aftermarket overhead valve conversion kit. Anyone recognize the make of the conversion? Judging by the amount of modifications on that Ford engine Robert was serious about his racing! Howard Dennis Just noticed what looks like a fuel pump blockoff plate so it has to be a Model B block. Like I said Robert wasn't fooling around!
  5. Thanks so much! The closest match to what I believe to be correct is the 80 mph speedometer in your book, as I believe the Pontiac AC Speedometer for 1926 was like that except the maximum speed is 75 mph. However, I have seen a few in 1926 -1927 Pontiacs that have 80 mph on them like the one in your book. At any rate the reset stem is at the 5:00 position coming out of the base instead of coming out of the face of the speedometer, as it would not fit in the hole on the dash unless it coming out of the base. To sum it up, I think the correct model for the 1926 Pontiac is a 75 mph version of what is shown in your book. Where are you located? Thanks!
  6. Not mine…great sheetmetal and seems all there and original. 6 cylinder engine. If I was closer… https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/sheridan-1932-chrysler/7739218289.html Owner Contact: Derek Thelen 307-752-4538. per owner: “1932 chrysler cl car has not been used since 1969.its all there and decent shape for its age.”
  7. If it is an electronic-controlled transaxle, there could be a pressure switch on the valve body that is not working. Usually, each "gear" ahs a pressure switch to shift into the next gear. Need to see a competent transmission shop for such things as "some disassembly required" for that repair. Plus a new fluid and filter. If it is a non-electronic shift transaxle, then it could be a governor and/or valve body issue. Again, "some disassembly required" by a competent transmission shop. Regards, NTX5467
  8. I have been unable to find replacements for the 1/4 window to roof rail portion. Let me know if you find that piece. The leading edge of 1/4 window to front window seal was easy to change on my 70 and took all of 5min each side. I haven't done the other strips as mine are good.
  9. Buick used 75 MPH AC speedometers thru 1927. In 1928 the speedometer was drastically changed again and the speedwheel went to 80 MPH. This was for both the Buick Standard and the Buick Master. Sometimes an 80 MPH speed wheel shows up in a 1927 speedometer, but that is because a rebuilder put it there. So for 1926, I would say that Pontiac used 75 mph. Attached is a page from the thick Buick master parts catalog. United motors section. It lists the Buick speedometers. I have also included a two page tech paper that I wrote showing the progression of the AC speedometer between 1924 and 1927. The last 2 photos are the 1925 AC speedometer for my Buick, and the 1927 AC speedometer showing the backlit feature. As a side note, I only restore and calibrate 1924 thru 1927 AC speedometers. I 3D print parts as there are potmetal parts inside that no one makes and I replace those. I also calibrate these and I use remagnetized magnets. I completely disasssemble, clean, check bearing and gear clearances, and I rebuild using sunthetic grease. If you need one restored, I can do yours or I do have a few candidates that I can rebuild. Hugh
  10. Does anyone have any information on the different types of speedometers that AC Spark Plug Company made in the 1920s? I am trying to determine the different speedometer models and what they were used in. For example, I have seen some with 75, 80, and 90 mph maximum speeds as well as different sizes and styles. Does anyone have an AC Parts catalog from the 1920s that shows or tells which speedometers were used on the various automobiles in the 1920s?
  11. Sounds like it might be out of time when trying to start. Did you change the spark plug wires before you got it started and running by replacing the ECM? If so, perhaps spark plug wires are crossed?
  12. I've used the freezer to test A/C components to see if and how they operate before installing them on the vehicle. You know the type with the capillary tube and bulb to cycle the compressor on and off. Just remember to inform your wife that you left it sitting in the ice cube tray before she reaches in for a cube or two.
  13. Try https://jovalmachine.com/about-us/ Friend of the HCCA Jerry Chase and family. i used to own a 1915 Dort. In the Nethercutt Museum now.
  14. The owner of this photo should be paid to allow the AACA to sell this as christmas cards this fall
  15. Here is another neat piece of advertising. This is printed on heavy card and framed under glass. Sorry about the reflections but you can see the great coloring. Terry
  16. No check engine light on, I don't recall the compression numbers, but they were all within 5 psi of each other. It sounds much worse in real life like it has a catch in it/freezes for a moment. It starts to run really poorly after about 15 mins of driving when at full operating temp. I don't think it is a starter as I just changed it ( the original one died, I assume the poor starting issue may have killed it?) I will check the fuel pressure and report the numbers this week.
  17. I don't suppose you could narrow that down a bit could you?
  18. I'll put this out there at the risk of ridicule of others - I was the guy for the better part of 30 years doing those traffic stops and giving out the tickets and while I fully believe in safe driving, traffic enforcement is not a black and white issue that cameras turn it into. I would estimate that less than 1/3 of the motorists that I stopped ever got tickets. My point was always the interaction with the driver. I recognized the potential financial impact on them, both from the cost of the ticket but also the potential impact on their insurance cost. A few years before I retired ( I worked for a local municipality) I was at a meeting with area politicians and the commander of the local OPP detachment (think State Trooper) and we both stated that if they were to implement speed cameras in our area that they should not be set below the speed that officers would actually issue a ticket for it to be accepted by the public - in Ontario that is generally about 15 kph or 10 mph over the posted limited. Not every officer is the same but even in our world we considered anything lower as offside. At the end of the day my opinion was that it was a human making the error and when you remove the human interaction at the start of the process it is unfair and nothing but a money grab and not about safety. So far in my area no cameras and I would not support them.
  19. I'm sorry it's taken me so long to reply here, I forgot I had posted this here. I honestly don't remember if the car it came off of had air conditioning. I suppose it's possible, but the only electrical part on this is the resistor coil on the back of the fan switch. Would the air conditioning on a 50's or 60's car not use any electrical components on the control unit itself? Here's another picture of it/them. I have 2, but the second one doesn't have any cables on it. These are really well made. The parts are not pot metal like what Chevrolet had used in the 55, 56, 57 cars or their 55-59 trucks. I know they're not from a Chevrolet from the 50's to the 70's. And it's definitely not from a Cadillac. But I'm not familiar with the 50's Oldsmobiles, Pontiacs and Buicks. Could it be from a Chrysler product, or another 50's independent manufacturer?
  20. Today
  21. A list I started many years ago. Mostly chronological. Lots of good stories on many of these cars. Have photos of 26 of the 38.
  22. Good advice above. Have you checked the onboard diagnostics for any codes and is the check engine light on? I saw the list of items checked but could you put some numbers to it, like compression and fuel pressure? Does fuel pressure hold for a time after the engine stops? It sounds like it runs pretty smoothly in the video, but the starting is not a smooth rotation from the sound of it. It has a catch, or hesitation, in the sound like one or more cylinders has more compression than the others, or the starter has a bad spot. When it starts to run poorly, is it at a similar engine temperature, or when it goes closed loop which can be found in diagnostics. I am not super familiar with the touch screen cars but there is a loop indicator on one common screen. The engine starts on the ICM and then the ECM takes over.
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