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  2. You're correct John. That's a proper and moral attitude, and one that I embrace, but I also have to acknowledge that there are such things as "losers" in the world - people who have problems beyond the scope of my ability to help them. Or deal with them. There is a legitimate concept that some management professionals have called "knowing when to fire your customers." In other words, you can't take the generally admirable concept of "the customer is always right" to it's most absurd extreme: suffering the most foolish of fools. The problem with the guy who placed the rude ad is that he he seemed to PRESUME that a large part of the people reading his ads were losers or fools. The point of my comment was that I appreciate his frustration but I personally don't approve of his tactic.
  3. Sidenote: I bought a couple crush ring assortment packs off ebay.
  4. I ran into a problem with the Rolls-Royce, that the original brass washers under the bayonet fittings were a touch thicker than the reproductions and on that car the minuscule height difference caused an alignment issues and such allowed for a vacuum leak. Also, if running a paper gasket under the lid, that will not work (needs to be a gasoline resistant cork). With it running, get out the soapy water and paint brush to test all the fittings (every fitting all the way to the gasoline tank).
  5. Thanks John, I wonder though if there isn't supposed to be covers, like furniture plugs or similar to cover the bolt heads?
  6. By George, I think he's got it! Fill the tank every Sunday evening or after 200 miles. Always calculate cost at cents per mile. I have been doing those two things for quite a few years now and they are a good mind conditioner. Of course when you think you might want something that gets better fuel mileage you try out some tin cracker box, figure out the difference in cents per mile, and say "Nah, no way I'm giving up what I have for a few cents a mile".
  7. Surely we don't think of everyone who has a different idea of value as a "loser!" A business has to value its diverse customer base-- people from all sorts of backgrounds--and even a private seller should learn to appreciate other folks, even if they're different.
  8. Thanks for your help! Its hard to say, depends on the condition. An other thing will be the postage to send them to Europe. Not sure what you mean with "shorter slightly curved arm". According the parts book for the '28 128"Series the fronts have longer arms and are straight. This should make sense since the distance between the mounting point and the strap stud is bigger than the distance in the rear. In the attached picture you can see the 1500G/H shocks, this ones are for the front for a model 54 (1500K/J are rear shocks for the 54). I don't no the difference to the model 51in connection with the shocks. Chassis dimensions are the same, and the model 54C uses the 1500A/B, like the model 51. There are no part numbers on the shocks before 1930 anyway, the figures given here are just to identify the item in the picture. If you could measure the arm and the distance between the attaching bolt holes it might help me to check if they would fit. Thank you.
  9. They come in two sizes. You need the smaller one. Or else just use two ice picks. Don't bleed on the upholstery.
  10. My son said most cars on the road will be self-driving by the year 2045. I reminded him that self-driving cars are also self-crashing cars.
  11. There is so much we don't know about this Cord, that appraising its value within a reasonable range is iffy. It is referred to as both a Westchester and a Beverly, but it can't be both. Maybe the owner thinks the bustle trunk makes it a Bev... but what actually makes the determination is the interior. There seems to still be confusion about this. It looks like a project that didn't go beyond the dismantling step. I'm not too optimistic about the unknowns such as; rust, the mechanicals, (Transmission and engine especially), the instruments, front fenders, and wheels, of which good ones all are pricey stuff. I hope it isn't going to end up being cannibalized. If much of the items in question are blah it will probably be shed of remaining usable Cord-peculiar parts and then the hulk perhaps be street rodded, if not chopped up.. If on the other hand it can be acquired reasonably and the unknowns aren't a horror story it could be a fair candidate for a home restoration by someone with good mechanical skills. In earlier times some sedans that were downright awful were occasionally brought back, but with the current cost of restoration, it's not so likely in these times.
  12. People who drive and/or text should have a finger amputated each time they are caught. Shaving, drinking, eating holding a pet should all have a thousand dollar fine and a years' suspension. Second offence lifetime suspension.
  13. I see both sides of the argument. I agree that the seller doesn't have a very positive attitude for someone who wants to sell their vehicle for a sizeable amount. On the other hand, that's a great way to filter out at least some of the losers. I really hate to say this about two communities that I generally feel a strong kinship with, but whenever I used to put an ad in the local newspaper to sell either a motorcycle or a gun, I could count on every weirdo in the county calling me up. More than once I had to refuse to sell a gun or a motorcycle to someone who claimed they wanted to buy it. of
  14. Thanks for all your feedback Any insight on whether the gear box shown in photos is usable in my 36 Dodge As the carb is manual I am assuming Canadian - ? The measurements Rusty gave for the block 25 " vs 23 1/4 should help me identify
  15. Earl, if you'd like a little unsolicited advice that you could pass along to your selling dealer, here's what I would have done if the car arrived at my shop: 1. Remove that foam insulation on the fuel lines. It's Home Depot junk that makes people think the car has something wrong with it. And it looks like an amateur has been maintaining it. Not a good impression. 2. Remove the fender skirts. I know you like them, but they're polarizing for buyers. Keep them with the car, show photos of them, maybe one photo with the skirts installed, but otherwise I would present the car without them. They weren't standard equipment and they make the car look stubby. Skirts are the one thing that most folks can't see past and I always remove them if possible unless they were standard equipment. They change the look significantly and most people aren't really visionary enough to see past what's in front of their faces. Even if they know they come off, they can't imagine how it would look, they just know what they see. It's all about first impressions. 3. Paint the wheels red. A little contrast with the yellow car and whitewall tires would really make it pop and give it some definition. It would also tie in with the interior rather nicely. The wheels are pinstriped, and that may increase the degree of difficulty, but a quick repaint on the wheels and a simple silver pinstripe probably wouldn't cost much. We've done several cars without even removing the tires--just let the air out, break them off the bead, hold them away from the rim, then paint. Flip over and repeat. Reinflate tire and mount it on the front spindle, give it a spin, lay down a pinstripe, and it's good to go. If you want to keep the Trippe lights, keep them. Now that you've shown them in photos, it will be hard to keep them no matter what kind of discount you offer. Buyers will want the lights AND the $1000 discount and won't accept you removing parts. Too late now, they're out there, but that kind of deal usually doesn't fly. Nobody ever asks how nice a car is when they buy, they only ask how cheaply they can get it and how deeply they can reach into your pocket. Just as an FYI, I've bid on the car several times to try to kick it up over the reserve. Hope this helps and I hope it works out, it really is a lovely little car!
  16. Great info, what’s the trick or tool to remove the inside door handles and window hand cranks?
  17. I would take on the Cord project, I have a lot of idea's that are running through my little custom brain. Auburnseeker would be able to buy all of the engine parts to. I would take good care of that poor, neglected sedan. The white one at auction will bring a good number. Cars like that can be thrown in the corner and not touched. Resold in 5-10 years for a profit, they are just not making them anymore. Auction fees are what will eat up a persons profit down the road. I have a building to lease, no Cord in my near future.
  18. Fuel and front break line double flare day.....been trying to avoid this (not my favorite process...)
  19. I haven't gotten my car out of winter storage yet so can't do a video just now. How to get to the windshield winding mechanism: Take off the winding handle, rear view mirror, and take out the two screws on either side of the header. This should let you lift off the outer header board with the upholstery attached. Under that you will find another board attached with wood screws. Take that off and you should have full access to the winding mechanism. When I redid my interior twelve years ago Steele Rubber Products was offering a weather stripping kit for the Fisher VV windshield. It included the piece across the bottom the windshield closes into and the side channels the windshield slides in. As I recall the rubber strip across the top of the windshield outside was sold separate. Before cleaning and oiling the mechanism and replacing the weather stripping my windshield was working but with difficulty. Now it works very smoothly. You should be able to get to the door winding mechanism by taking the door panels off.
  20. restoring a 52 olds 98 4dr sedan.looking for the 4 upper belt line moldings that sit on top of the doors next to the door handles.also looking for the stone guard shields and the ninety eight scripts for both sides and possibly the rear drivers side door rod that goes across the door to the door rod lock knob button.need both if possible. can contact by email or phone.number is 917 543 7696.thanks.
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  22. When the advertisement speaks of it as being the perfect builder for Pebble Beach, I probably would "good look" at it as both a 100 point car and as a preserved and cleaned up original (not all that many 1927 Packard's have survived in this condition no matter if a 6 or an 8, what the body style, or ... and encourages people to get original cars to a functional level verses hiding in the back corners of garages), that being said though the buyer would have to be willing to loose some serious money to turn it into a 100 point car.
  23. We had a 75 degree day yesterday so I installed the new fuel pump. The car started right up and ran great. Now to get things moved around so I can get it on the road.
  24. restoring a 52 olds 98 4 dr sedan.would you happen to have the 4 upper belt line moldings that go on top of the doors just next to the door handles ? also looking for the stone guard shields and the ninety eight scripts on the right and left sides and possibly the REAR DRIVERS SIDE DOOR ROD THAT GOES ACROSS THE DOOR TO THE DOOR ROD LOCK KNOB BUTTON.I NEED BOTH IF ca email me or call me.number is 917 543 7696.thanks.hope you can help.thanks.
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