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Too bad they didn't paint the whole care while they were at it. Otherwise a nice survivor.

Hopefully you will find it is a burnt valve on #6. Much easier to fix than a scored cylinder and/or broken rings.

My leak has gotten worse under my water jacket.I'll probably start removing it this weekend.If I need a replacement with baffle,dose anyone have a spare one for sale? Thanks,Greg.

Nice color on this car.

For Sale: 1965 Ford Fairlane 500 4dr Sedan, 298, 3-speed, 66K miles - $7,000 - Minneapolis, MN 1965 Ford Fairlane for sale by owner - Minneapolis, MN - craigslist Seller's Description: 1965 Ford Fairlane 500 4 door sedan, 289, 3-speed on the column. Also updated stereo FM radio & speakers. odometer: 66000. Contact: Ray (612) 7-8-one-eighteen-0-4 Copy and paste in your email: 8b605fa8b4683acfa3f7eeeab2d44239@sale.craigslist.org I have no personal interest or stake in the eventual sale of this 1965 Ford Fairlane 500 4dr Sedan.

Thank you for posting these many pictures. As you can tell, I enjoyed them immensely. Great stuff.

Larry: So you know I only work on newer stuff but I have 2 ideas. 1. Do a blowdown test on #6 to see if the leakage is thru the valves or rings/piston. 2. Get a quart bottle and hook it up to your carb IV-style in place of vac tank. That will at least tell you about the idle issue. Cheers Dave

My water jacket is leaking and I might need a replacement with baffle if anyone has one.Thanks

My water jacket is leaking on my 35 40 series Buick and I may need a good one.I haven't removed the old one yet.Thanks

Thanks for your thoughts. I'm not sure about the background story on the car or trans in my initial post. I found it online for sale and the output shaft looked similar to the 1950 Olds transmission I'm working on. Just hoping that I could find a part close enough to be made to work.

Mark Lizewskie was the curator of the Rich collection and was responsible for the look of the tires. The whitewalls were made to look aged. Mark is now the Executive Director with the Rolls-Royce club. He oversaw the "recommissioning" of the car and it was recently shown at the Modamiami show in Miami. Happy you are getting your gray tires Ron!

Thanks so much for the offer. I'm going to try my local junkyard before I bug anyone else for parts but will definitely reach out if I strike out locally.

Hi Hugh, Thanks for your comments, I actually put blanking plates in and also removed the oversize riser tube just leaving the shell of the riser. I ran the car and although it started and ticked over under load when driving it had no performance at all. I put it down to not having the riser tube in place to give a smooth airflow up through the riser and into the intake manifold. I reinstated the riser tube with the same blanking plates in and car ran OK again. Its on my jobs list to find some thin walled tube to replace the thick walled tube in the riser. Main priority at the moment is getting new half shafts and a pinion without chipped teeth for half shaft so I can get it back on the road! Andrew

You are correct. There wasn't much to prevent the removal of the housing. Just remove things until it comes out. I did have to remove the starter pinion gear for clearance without dropping the bolt and washer into the bell housing. Hopefully I also get it back together without dropping them

I am going to lube my speedometer cable today. The shop manual says to unscrew the oil tube and saturate the wick with Mopar speedometer oil. The screw is a small Allen type and I don't have the right size wrench. Is it OK to just put some drops of oil down the hole to lube it? And what type of lubricant should I put on the cable. The manual calls for Mopar All-weather speedometer lubricant.

I'd like to watch it work. Don't ask me why...

That top cover is unmistakable. It is the "small Buick" transmission, variations of which were also used in Pontiac and Oldsmobile. I have no idea which variation this is, but it probably isn't Buick, as Buicks had torque tubes through 1960. Didn't you say 50 Oldsmobile? Oldsmobiles typically had open drivelines and really short tailshafts so that tracks. Also, it may be a "selector" type(?), where the shift mechanism has to move sideways as well as fore/aft. I can't imagine it working in a Plymouth easily. Is there a GM engine in the Plymouth?

That's where I was going to try first. The guy on the phone didn't have any parts for the olds transmission but said he had a bucket full of slip yokes that I can search through and a whole bunch more installed on yard cars. Just hoping to have a plan before I go out there.

Thanks for the info. That's the problem I'm finding with trying to get a slip yoke for this project (thought that part would be easy but not so much) For this trans tailshaft, the splines are 16 splines and cut on a taper .985" min ID and 1.169 major diameter. The more common GM transmissions for that time have 16 splines with straight cut grooves instead of taper cut. I can probably do other machine work as needed but hoping to get a spline with the correct engagement.

Thanks Matt. That definitely looks like the car. The transmission has GM letters on it. Think that's just a coincidence or did Plymouth use GM transmissions or maybe the car had a swap at some point during its life?

There is a chance that I have what you are looking for - I have to double check and it might be Monday before I report back - if you haven't heard from me by Tuesday send me a reminder. The caps I have have the right Dodge script - I just can't remember if they are the car or truck ones and just as important the condition. Don

Posted twice. Read my comments in your other post. New Port has good products, and I will bet that something has slipped out of place.

All - YEA YEA YEA ! Today I was contacted by Coker Tire and they are going to run several gray tires as part of their promotion with HCCA . Se the attached flyer. I will follow up here and am very hopeful that I can finally source my Kissel gray tires thru this method!!! Ron Hausmann P.E.

Can you see anything from under the dash? I would suspect that something has slipped at the motor. In the after-market system I played with not so long ago there was several places in the motor that the output of the motion could be adjusted. Like if the linkage is near the outside of the driven gear the arms would travel farther. Closer to the center would result in less travel of the arms. The driven wheel had a spiral affair that offered several settings.

Do not waste your money on those DeWalt replacement batteries. They come in the DeWalt colors of yellow and black but that's about it. I purchased two six months ago and when charged over night the charge lasts about 5 minutes or less than a dozen drywall screws. Real 18 volt DeWalt batteries are not available anywhere.