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  2. That is a strange thing. I can't place it on any steam vehicle. It looks like some sort of alarm/signaling device and it was a novelty of some sort? Possibly an early deer whistle to alert deer of the approaching car or motorcycle. That would be my guess. -Ron
  3. Good to deal with and they support AACA https://www.restorationstuff.com/products.html
  4. Aaaaw, Mr Exner himself is taking all the credit for the KG design, how modest. I find it interesting that none of his earleir or later exercises showed any similarities. European builders were using the "bubble top" design very early, and I have little doubt that Exner was heavily influenced by the KG exercise and perhaps other Ghia concepts. Let's call it a draw (pardon the pun).
  5. Where most of the "power" will come from is throttle response improvements and better atomization. Nothing which might show up on a chassis dyno, but something you feel. Which can make the engine feel more energetic so less throttle might be needed for a given result. On a carb, the air flow increases first, then that pulls fuel out of the float bowl (past all of the fuel path restrictions and other calibration areas) into the venture. So in some cases, you open the throttle and WAIT for the engine to respond. On EFI, as soon as the throttle position sensor notes ANY throttle movement, the system instantaneously responds with more or less fuel. So things just feel better. Hence, the feeling of "more power", when it's really just better throttle response. And, once you re-learn your driving to not waste that additional response from a given throttle movement, you might end up using a bit less throttle input for a given result and also enjoy a possible fuel mpg increase. Where the fuel economy can increase is when you take throttle out of the motor, as in coasting. The fuel is usually trimmed back to "idle" and can result (on the "Instant MPG" displays on newer vehicles) of 99mpg while coasting. Additionally, accelerating briskly, so you get to your cruising speed sooner, can help overall mpg. The more time you spend in the lower gears just consumes more fuel, unlike accelerating slower (with a carb) to keep it out of the "fuel enrichment" mode, as we were told to do back then. Still, even $1K for the basic kit (with install kits adding to that amount!), kind of hard to justify the added cost of the parts AND labor to install them just on suspected fuel savings alone. Your judgment call. Having a car that's more enjoyable to drive should be worth something, just don't expect "the moon". Every so often, I run across somebody who had one of the name brand self-learning TBI kits installed on their car. For one reason or another (in some cases, still unknown!), the advertised benefits never happen. MPG stays in the single digits (in one case, on a Buick 430) and everything that's tried just doesn't seem to work. I know that initial calibration data is important, but the self-learn function just doesn't seem to do its job. Not sure why. Some have said it's due to the intake manifold design (single plane vs dual plane), but I don't know why that would really matter if it doesn't t matter to a carb. The newer units seem to have adopted the "returnless" fuel system the OEMs have used. No return line needed as the pump's operation is modulated to keep the engine supplied with adequate fuel. OR the pressure regulator is on the fuel pump module rather than on the EFI unit. I've been waiting for Holley to cull their EFI products a bit. They seem to have acquired many of their competitors over the past 5 years, so some will certainly "go", I suspect. Enjoy! NTX5467
  6. Try measuring down into the drive slot with a long screwdriver. Mark where the screwdriver shank lines up with the seat for the distributor. Compare that distance to the distributor shaft. If there is a difference, you have a problem with the drive shaft not being fully seated. Paul
  7. James, I really do appreciate your thoughts and what you discovered was the problem with your 1935 Auburn., and wish that was my case here. This Buick engine's set up is different from your Auburn. No type of shaft adjustment on this Buick. It would be great to find someone in my area (Detroit) with this engine to compare too. Thanks, Jakes
  8. well ebay owns a portion of CL. Ebay ER is doing very well for a change.
  9. Hi Ben, thanks for your response. Yes, this is the same distributor, and the correct one for this engine (Delco 663Y), the only distributor that I have. I, and other people that attempted to install this distributor are saying the same thing "WHY"! No modification were made, this is 100% original.
  10. Thanks Mike for the thought. That was my thinking also. As mentioned, with the distributor out I checked the oil pump shaft for play. There was no play up/down/sideways and the oil pump was producing pressure to lube the top end on the motor. As far as measuring the distances in relationship to the matching up of the shaft and the distributor, I also did that. All seems to be correct, so my question is "Why is there that 3/8" preventing the distributor from seating". Mystery!!! Wish I had a diagram of the working inner parts of the oil pump. Perhaps that might shed some light on this subject. Thanks again!!
  11. Today
  12. below the drivers door. running board apron is kind of in the way.
  13. I think tht it will prove to be good in the long run. It got rid of a lot of $5000 cars with $20,000 price tags already which is a good thing.
  14. I’m new to this car so please help me. I did a compression test and have 70-80 psi per cylinder. The guy who had it before installed a different distributor and down draft Rochester carb fed with a electric fuel pump. I just can not get it to run correctly. Plugs show too much fuel black sooty looking. Any help you can give will be appreciated. I’m vacationing this week going to Carlyle swap meet this week. Hope to meet some of you guys there.. thanks in advance.
  15. Google 'battleship linoleum' and you will find many places that sell it. If you secure the edges of the flooring with a nice metal strip, it will look stunning. Just my 2 cents.
  16. Bought a lot of parts from an estate and haven't a clue what they are. Guy was into MGs and Model As but Im sure none of this stuff falls into that category. My dad wanted to think Buick or GM 1936 1937 1938? But notice the embossment around the bottom of the fenders. I noticed some Mopars around the same time had a similar bead around the bottom I looked at pics of DeSoto Chrysler and Plymouth around the same time and can't nail anything down. Looks like there is a marker light or something mount towards the top and headlight mounts on in towards where it would meet the grille. They are dual spare mount and look to have the inner braces too. Also piled with the fenders was this odd shaped bumper have no idea if it was the same car or what. I'm going to end up selling the stuff I have no use for it but don't want to mislead anyone as to what the stuff is. Please forgive the pics if they are crappy. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  17. Hi, I am restoring a 1914 Humberette. It's come to the time when I need to decide on what material to cover the wooden floorboards with? I think that they were originally covered with lino, but that is very much a guess. Do I use rubber matting or lino? On the web I have found some 3.2mm hessian backed lino in 'battleship grey' this lino is sold by Artists supplies for making lino cuts and I was wondering whether or not to try using this. https://intaglioprintmaker.com/shop/lino-32mm-thickness-72x36-inch-roll-1800x900mm I have yet to ask for a sample. Your comments would be appreciated. Mike
  18. Does anyone have any respectfully presented reviews of the rechrome services offered by Classic Auto Services located in New Boston, NH? They seem to have several specialties such as cloisonne restoration, interiors, full car restoration in addition to rechroming causing me to wonder if they subcontract. Since the massive fire at Advanced Plating in Nashville, their lead times have extended to nearly a year.
  19. Glen, The 1922 Studebaker EJ was originally equipped with Remy or Wagner electric: Generator: Remy 917-A or Wagner EM355 Starter: Remy 720-C or Wagner EM356 Distributor: Remy 606-A and 626-A or Wagner K97 Could help you out with an original Remy or Wagner Distributor as well as with NOS parts such as caps, rotors, points etc. 626-K was originally used on 1925-27 Studebaker Standard Sixes (ER, EU, EY). Let me know in case I can be of help. Pete
  20. Kenny, The original distributor on generator GJ-4014 was Auto-Lite IG-4030A (used on 1922-24 Star Models C and 1924 Model F). The distributor was also used on AL Generator GT-4001, 1925 Star Model F. AL Distributor IG 4036D and IG-4067A would probably work too. I don't think I have a distributor in stock but I might be able to help you out with a good pot metal distributor drive housing. I could also provide you with conversion information if needed. Pete
  21. Pete, I can probably help you out on this. How many weights do you need? Pete
  22. Definitely not the same as LaSalle, which like AA, BB, L6/8, and M Series have a centrelock section. During 1929, LaSalle, Cadillac 353, and later M Series had ring of bolts type
  23. Ghia bubble roof 1955 DeSoto http://www.carstyling.ru/en/car/1953_alfa_romeo_1900_supersonic_conrero/ http://www.carstyling.ru/car/1181/ http://www.carstyling.ru/car/3906/ http://www.carstyling.ru/car/3905/ http://www.carstyling.ru/car/1182/
  24. Picked this up in some misc. parts I bought in a lot. Best I can tell it's probably late 1950s to sometime in the 1960s Alfa Romeo Spyder grille eyebrow. I am open to corrections as I'm not to familiar with European cars. It is stainless and in good shape not beat up. Not sure if it's driver or passenger side. $150 with shipping included in the lower 48 States. Welcome to message me or call or text 865-755-3114 Alex
  25. Found a local transmission shop whose owner, while not familiar with the TC, was very familiar with the transmission. Took it to him, he test drove (really likes the car), services transmission, inspected everything. He found and fixed a leaking axle seal, declared all well. Problem solved, now more responsive, no problems. And only about $300 total. I'm happy.
  26. Further to jp26 you would be amazed/shocked at how much it has cost me to have all the ASBESTOS removed from a 1930s ENV Preselector gearbox. Not as a repair but just so I could bring my own car home after a visit to England & France. There was absolutely noting wrong with the gearbox just that it still had the "correct" friction linings inside it. bj .
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