All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. If you decide to replace the steel lines, the hardest is the one running through the frame front to rear as Tom states. Before you try to remove this line, tie a nylon string to the front of the line. It comes out the back, as there is more room. As you pull the line out the back, feed the string in the front. When the line is out, you should have a string through the frame where the line was. Attach the new line to the end of the string and use it to pull the line through the frame from the front. Still not easy, but it can be done.
  3. Blind squirrel found an acorn. I did not use them. I prefer the the door the way it is. Thank you Turbinator
  4. Wow! That's quite a treasure you have. Thanks to you and Tinindian.
  5. I assume the rubber mat is deteriorated on your runningboards? You can have new rubber installed at these companies: www.runningboardrubber.com and www.runningboardrubbermats.com. The results are very good but this process is expensive. ($2,000.00 +) Options are limited for runningboard rubber since Steele Rubber does not make glue on mats for your car. Do the Packard guys out there know of any other sources?
  6. Not sure I posted this correctly and it may not be appropriate for DB forum, but looking for rear quarter panels for 1956 Dodge panel Truck
  7. Something to explain how a car with 6 windows can be called a 5-window, I hope.
  8. Hi Rich great headlining...you must be a patient man! Re brakes i did the same thing with my 65...though I kept the single master cylinder, at least for now. I stripped all old ones out without even checking them for rbecause 1)car had been standing for 10 years and 2) it seemed hassle free and cheap enough (even cheaper if you make your own I guess but not as quick) to buy a new ready made set from inlinetube.com....very happy with them as well. i stayed away away from stainless steel option as I heard they are harder to bend, and although pipes are pre-formed I expected that some fiddling would be needed to fit. Plus I don’t drive in rain and not looking for a show car finish.. re fitting of pipes ..the long pipe through the chassis was a two man job, for me at least. The others went into their basic position pretty eaasily on my own. However the long pipe Wasn’t as bad as expected - from memory I think we tied the new pipe to end of old and basically pulled it through what i def needed help with personally was the final line up and connection of the pipes to the wheel cylinders - as a novice I left that to the guy who helped me with the long pipe...but of course pipes came flared with fittings so this made his job easier. still make a habit of checking for leaks and level of brake fluid ...and all is still good! Hope that helps Cheers Kev
  9. Robert, sorry to hear of your health problems. I hope you recover quickly. No, the pictures are of other peoples cars. My engine is currently on the test stand. I have seen slightly different oil; filters on other 34 Studebakers so I am using my best guess based on an illustration in the parts manual. I was able to find buy an oil filter recently from another member but I am still in need of the other parts. Please look for them when you are able. I appreciate any help. Thanks, John
  10. Hello All, Just finished reading through all posts on the forum (362 I think) back to pre 2002. Amazing amount of information and contacts. Was sad that photos on early posts have gone away. My 36 D2 4 dr in the shop for brakes, a fuel problem, and a few other small issues, hopefully ready for Spring. Cannot tell you how valuable the forum was for troubleshooting problems. The shop is South Shore Customs Plymouth MA with parts help from Then and Now Auto Weymouth MA. I have two questions forum members can help me out with. Obviously I am on the forum but am I a member of the AACA oor DB club? Are there other Dodge associations on the forum that you can join? Again thanks to all who started and keep this forum up, Please tell me what I am not a member of that pertains to early Dodge cars. Thanks again, Lee
  11. I don't believe there is a Auburn part on the whole car.
  12. You should be able to sell the white seat covers and recoup some of your restoration costs! They look like really good covers.
  13. Thanks Pat. I have already started acquiring some of the items necessary for the transition. I have the covers for the front buckets and new upper seat foam for the front buckets as well. Bill
  14. Today
  15. Hello, Can someone please give me more info about the combination: 4DW08E ? Thank you in advance.
  16. The levers in the middle and on the right have been sold. Thanks for looking, Loren
  17. Thanks Neil for that video. I saw it already somewhere and it belongs well to this thread!
  18. This has been sold. Thank you riv2x4, Loren
  19. Thanks! I am located in Cincinnati Ohio.
  20. Hello everyone,, I have a question about the alternator on my 71 Jaguar E Type series 3 alternator. I have attached a couple of photos for clarification. I am not certain if ground wire "A" goes to terminal "B" or "C". It may currently be in the wrong location. As shown it is on the "B" terminal. Is this correct or should it be on "C" terminal? Thank you
  21. In a Turbo 400 or ST 400, reverse is immediately after park, then neutral and drive.
  22. he did not contact me … i'm in Belgium.
  23. car above also for sale complete ! in Belgium
  24. if you need parts, i know complete steering unit, enginebloks ….
  25. Got most everything apart last night . Going to clean everything this weekend and inspect all the parts. I did notice there is some oxidation on the bronze and steel plates. Any suggestions on how to clean that off? The manuals from way back then say to use emery cloth. What should I be looking for as to what the thickness of the bronze plates should be and also the steel plates ? Scott
  1. Load more activity