All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. If you were close to central Missouri, I could keep you busy for awhile Let me know how many of the Rochester 4 barrel identification numbers end in 63, 67, 68, 70, 73, 75, 76, 77, 85, 86, 87, or 88 and what you want for them. Jon.
  3. Thanks for your response Turbo Kane. If anyone reading this has what I am looking for please reply to my email address or to this site.
  4. It has been around a couple of years. If the bid doesn't go much higher these are steals.
  5. A total lack of respect for someones property.... Steve
  6. It will certainly introduce a bit of drag into the intake air flow.
  7. Canada- interesting, no I hadn't even thought of that. I wonder if that's something that is commonly done?
  8. With all due respect, I would recommend you might refrain from sharing pictures like the ones in your initial post. Showing a truckload of delicate metering devices, such as carburetors, piled or thrown on top of each other in haphazard manner may suggest lack of appropriate care or respect for them.
  9. NO the marker lights do not, BUT I believe they are required in his country.
  10. https://www.foxnews.com/auto/local-california-cbs-reporter-fired-cars What an idiot!!! What was he thinking? Oh, he wasn't. Thought it was all fun & games; jumping, lying on the vintage cars, getting inside one and damaging another in the process. Well, until he was canned.
  11. At a Thunderbird show in Sacramento....https://www.thedrive.com/news/30562/reckless-newscaster-fired-after-climbing-on-damaging-cars-at-auto-show-on-live-tv?fbclid=IwAR3etS56ZUZxkuusbEPDd818KLqmrtZkHHQdRy3__vqFC_4krR8JkBwm2z4
  12. Only some of them will be reasonable to find. For me, the Chevy parts are the easiest. But others will be impossible, or nearly so. (Just ask Jon, the Carb King). The biggest challenge will be trying to research the numbers and date codes for every one of the OEM carbs, and figuring out which are over-the-counter replacements (good mostly just for parts), which are total junk, and which are those few gems. The first carb I started trying to ID is actually one I that got left behind at our swap meet a year or two ago. It is a Carter AFB, and has its brass tag intact, but has a 6-digit part number, which doesn't fit the system as far as I know. So that one may end up right back at the scrapper, waiting to be melted down for scrap aluminum. Hope they won't ALL prove to be that difficult. 😵
  13. Worked on the car some more last weekend. I didn't get a lot of time to work on it...and the day that it did, it poured down all day long. So, I decided to start breaking the engine down. My 2 youngest wanted to help. My Son removed the thermostat housing as shown.Just remove both bolts. Remove air cleaner/silencer front mount. My Son used a rubber mallet and tapped on the housing to break the seal. Remove thermostat and housing. Showing the site of removal.Showing the thermostat housing assembly removed from engine. Next, my Daughter removed the fuel pump as shown.She removed just 2 bolts while I held the pump in place to keep from falling. Remove. Showing site of removal.Showing fuel pump removed from engine. Next, I removed the coolant manifold as shown.The set of bolts on the right side were previously removed. I only needed to remove 2 bolts on the left. Make sure you have a pan beneath to catch any coolant. I had to tap on both sides with a rubber mallet to break the seals. Then, grab both ends and pull up as you slightly wiggle the part. Remove. Showing the site of removal.Showing the coolant manifold removed from engine. Next, I removed the water pump as shown.Remove 10 bolts. I tapped the spindle end with a rubber mallet to break the seal. Pump is also kept in place with 2 dowel pins. Slide off and remove. Showing site of removal.Showing water pump removed from engine. Next was the crankshaft pulley assembly as shown.Remove 3 bolts. Tap lightly with a rubber mallet till pulley moves a bit. Wiggle and pull pulley till it slides off. Do the same with the spacer and 2nd pulley if necessary. Remove. Showing site of removal.Showing crankshaft pulley assembly removed from engine. Next was the timing marker as shown.Remove 2 bolts. Remove. Showing site of removal.Showing timing marker removed from engine. Finally, I removed the harmonic balancer as shown.Remove bolt and hold down washer with an impact. This is not a reverse thread. Install a puller. Again, nothing fancy. Just a cheap Pittsburgh puller works well as shown.Engage puller till harmonic balancer slides off crankshaft. Showing site of removal.Showing harmonic balancer removed from engine. Overall, all of the task in this post are easy.
  14. Byron York -- Automotive Restorations by York in Ridgefield, CT -- is a guru for Packards of this vintage. See: https://www.byyork.com/
  15. very cool! that rear window needs a redo..........
  16. after reading this thread.................. apparently I need a new wife!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  17. I am providing a good "TIP" on using an Ultrasonic Cleaner to clean and free up antique auto parts. In this case my first test batch contains the front torque arm spring assembly, a brass fuel line sediment bowl and the heart of the fuel delivery system (also brass). I will only post a picture of the unit working for only about 10 minutes. If you want to follow more, a complete story of the Ultrasonic Cleaner learning curve is at the HCCA website under "TIPS and ADVICE". I need to open up this torque spring assembly to replace a spring and the cross-wise spring. This is a perfect test for the Ultrasonic cleaner and will help me along with the restoration of the Locomobile. If you have any suggestions or questions about this parts cleaner, please post. Al
  18. Have you considered Canada? great exchange rate at this time and you are not that far away.
  19. If you know what they fit they may find a home, good luck. Walked past lots of that stuff at Hershey. Bob
  20. It depends upon what you want done - from what I read you are looking to make the car dependable and a good running road car. Steve Babinsky does all levels from top prize winning Pebble Beach cars to repairs to rust ( he did the trunk floor of my 36 Packard where it was thin and you can't tell where it was done , metal cut out and replaced , etc. ) there is also Byron York of Ridgefield, Ct. who checked over the 1930 Packard 733 touring car I bought at the Dragone auction 3 years ago and corrected some things that needed to be sorted because the car had sat so long and not used when in two previous collections. Both Byron and Steve know their stuff, and will be glad to answer your questions , both know Packards very very well and own Packards themselves. I wasn't looking for a trailer queen show winner either but wanted my cars turn key reliable with everything checked out . Both Steve and Byron are good friends I have known for decades .
  21. I would also highly recommend Jeff and Devon..... the metal work that they performed on my '69 SS Impala's quarter panels was second to none ! I was very happy. Steve
  22. That's great, I've always wondered where you were located. I'm sending you an email and will be calling you soon. The car is pretty complete it just needs a little help on the hind end! I am eager to pick your brain on a few things. Much thanks!
  23. No such word as irregardless. Had an Uncle who would visibly flinch when he heard it. On he initial subject: I put a Jamco bar on my 63 with no issues.
  1. Load more activity