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My opinion is that it is starving for oil. On some early engines the oil pump needs to be primed. Your Idea of putting a larger line to feed it, and a check valve sounds like an good idea to me. I assume that this engine does not have any type of flow gauge or oil pressure gauge at all. Without that you have no way of knowing if the oil is moving at all. I would use a gravity drop check valve that matches your line size. I also think that your pistons have been replaced at some point. The expandable oil ring is a dead give-away as it had not been invented yet. Doubling up piston rings is not a big deal and I have seen that in early engines before. It was common to do this when the wider rings were not available.

The reflections on time served in the military are timely to us here in Australia as tomorrow many of us will rise early for the ANZAC day dawn services held across the nation and in New Zealand. The date 25th April commemorates the landings on Gallipoli in WW1 when Australian (and New Zealand) forces first fired shots in hostilities since federation occurred in 1901. The objectives were "technically" reached on the first day but due to inept leadership from the British officers in charge, they withdrew to the beachhead and a drawn-out stalemate ensued. This was all a "brilliant plan" (not) of none other than Winston Churchill, who should have been shot by a firing squad for the woeful planning and execution of it all. The idea was to secure the Dardanelles sea route to Istanbul to effectively neutralize the Turks in assisting Germany. All troops were evacuated several months later in the dead of night, so nothing was actually gained by the terrible losses incurred. The day is now one of the most sacred on our calendar, where the fallen and all who have served are honored in a day of reflection and remembrance. "At the going down of the sun, and in the morning, we WILL remember them". I like many respect all who have served of all nations - as regardless of any personal opinions they are prepared to risk all at the behest of governments and therefore the peoples of those nations. Now to sort of stay on topic - think of all those burnt out and bombed vehicles that line the roads in old newsreels - what a tragedy! Steve

Is it a right hand drive car? 😁

I do not like this Lincoln - because of that self made spare tire hump. Also, there was no factory convertibles for this generation of Continentals, so it's a conversion, and I suspect, that soft top here is used from '71-'76 Eldorado. Yellow Mark III in that same ad for 7500$ seems like a better deal.

Nice Cadillac, I like it - even if it's an entry level Cadillac. Looks like a well maintained car. Wide whitewall tires are a must.

Yeah, Tell me about it. My old Chevy Suburban's don't fit well into the parking spaces either. Just a gas guzzling dinosaur still roaming the earth when the weather is right. 🦖

Nice car, but I do not believe in 39k miles - it seems, that the car has been repainted, top of the dashboard has been covered with vinyl for some reason, steering wheel deriorated. I am not Pontiac Catalina specialist, but is that seat material and overall looks correct?

Ouch. I hate it when that happens. 😮

Did you end up reconnecting the cigarette lighter socket. As my first thought when you said you had kids that it would be a great power source to plug in their iPads and devices. Going to be a nice family cruiser when done. Enjoy 😀😀😀😀 And BTW, shedding blood is normal on any Buick you work on. Comes with the territory and is proportional to the degree of difficulty in the job. Probably a formula somewhere. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Way to go, Travis!

These Citroén was built in France,Belgium and England.

It was a hat pin and I just took the pin off.

The other thread --> https://forums.aaca.org/topic/413442-1939-buick-special-parking-brake/#comment-2672358 The best source of pre war Buick parts is Dave Tacheny in Champlin, MN. He specializes in 1936-1941 Buick parts. He is old school:- no email. The best way to contact him is to call him between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427 3460. You can also write him a letter. His address is 11949 Oregon Ave N., Champlin, MN 55316.  http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/ (I may have posted the photo before)

Citroen Avants were made in Britain, but in right hand drive. Could never be "restored" but the engine and its front wheel drive~transmission probably worth a little more than its scrap value. But would be few buyers. As above suspect it is a 4 door saloon. Hard to tell for your remains, but was also made in 2 door convertible style https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/citroen/traction-avant/1938/1005908 https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/citroen/traction-avant/1938/683734 https://www.autoevolution.com/cars/citroen-traction-15-cabriolet-1939.html#aeng_citroen-traction-15-cabriolet-1939-29

1955 Chevrolet front.

Terry Y, 1. Not at all. I try to choose my words wisely, but sometimes after🍷all bets are off. I usually read and reread my posts so that I do not sound like a know it all, if I do I am depending on the team to call me on it. 2. Thank you 3. actually my shop burned down a little over a year ago and we are putting the finishing touches on the final plans now. The shop you see belongs to a close friend who happens to specialize on Prewar classic cars. I am lucky as I can help with the restoration, more in the capacity of research librarian and parts procurement, not to mention problem solving or is that problem maker! 4. a early Holsman, not mine 5. thank you again (blush, blush) 6. Right on 7. I like the way you think, kind of like if you want to boil a frog you turn the heat up a little at a time or else it jumps out. 8. It started out as a king pin problem and escalated from there. I will start a thread in restoration section 9. I have a 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado with the factory W-34 package, Olds called it forced air induction, after I explain it to most people they say Oh it has Ramair! 10. thank you again 11. I am sorry I can’t divulge anything about the other cars in the shop as they are not mine, only thing I can say is even Eddie would be impressed, think big brass and big cubes. 12. The bottomless pit was another Twelve, a true artist prepared the car for me to buy it, just remember you can put lipstick on a pig but it is still a pig! I will talk more about this one at a latter date 13. this question tells me a lot about you and others in this hobby. We really have a generous and helpful group of people. 14. Thank you.

I mistakenly sent this off to get rechromed, thinking it was for my '52 Pontiac. Didn't realize my mistake until I went to install it. Any idea what it belongs to?

I need some engine design help. This 1911 Metz has many lubrication issues and I am looking for pointers to correct the problem areas. I do not know if these are mistakes from 1911, or if someone lost some major part in this engine. This is an air cooled 2 cylinder 4 stroke. Last year of this design. 1912 is a 4 cylinder. 1 )Upon removing the cylinders, the walls were completely dry. They look like a hone will clean them up as the scratches are not deep. Should I use a hone with 3 flat stones or a hone with balls on the end of wires? There is no ridge at the top. 2) In review of the pistons, there are no oil holes behind the oil control rings. I would think maybe eight 3/16" holes would be a good idea? 3) I have never seen this style of compression rings before. 2 rings in tandem on the same groove. Was that factory or a means of filling a wide ring groove with modern compression rings? A friend mentioned that he had seen this on airplanes. Anyone else seen this? 4) piston top is dished. I have no idea if these are the original pistons, but it seems likely as even the middle ring around the wrist pin - I have not seen this type of retaining for the wrist pin. 5) I will have to check if the piston is steel of aluminum. The underside of the piston skirt looks like a pretty porous casting. The piston itself looks like pretty low mileage. 6) I also thought that a little 2 cycle oil in the gas is not a bad idea to ensure some lubrications is always available for the cylinder walls. - Although Volkswagen did not do that. Now lets get into the other lubrication issues. In 1910, this engine was splash lubricated. In 1911, Metz added a 6" deep sump and oil pump gears to one of the cam shafts. So now the problems. The oil sump is 6" deep below the engine. The camshaft is at the top of the engne. So the oil pump gears on the end of one cam have to lift the oil around 18 inches. 1/4" ID copper tubing is used from the base of the block. The oil is lifted 18 inches and then squirted onto the windage tray to do splash lubrication. In this next picture, you see the bottom of the engine for the new added 1911 sump. The 1/4" ID tubing has a piece of 3/16 " ID tubing sodlered into it, and the solder is broken. So this is just sucking air. - but. Should this have a larger tubing (rather than smaller) soldered to it, and then a check valve used so that it will maintain oil in the vertical tube after the engine is shut down? Without a check valve, you will never maintain prime. Any thoughts on a 1/4" or 3/8" check valve that would be a good candidate here? I do not know if a part was lost here, but this is not good engineering? So now, could I just convert this back to a splash only engine? The last item is the windage tray. The edge of the big end of the connecting rod just barely touches the oil level in the windage tray. I would think that maybe a piece of sheetmetal added to the big end of the connecting rod might push more oil out of the windage tray so there is more splashing and making an oil rich atmospheric environment in the crankcase. Thank you for looking at this post. A lot of effort has gone into restoring this car, and now we are trying to get it to run, but we have these serious motor problems. This is not my car but I am helping a good friend to get it to run. Hugh

I use corn head grease in some of my farm machines, I have yet to see it used in a John Deere gear box of any type. We use it in chain drive boxes with double row series 80 chain. For those not familiar the double row chain is driven by 2 sprockets close together it looks similar to a timing chain just simpler with way less parts to the chain. These drives can be used to speed up or slow down shaft speeds, also to remote power to different height levels on a big machine. I have one on a machine called a Pickett one step bean cutter / wind rower that transmits a lot of power and it gets really hot and the grease liquifies . I think it’s a great product, but in my opinion in a car you would have to pipe in heat somehow to get it to work either in steering gear or transmission. I remember reading about how people would forget to change the oil in their transmission and rear axels in areas that have sustained temperature below 0 and I believe Packard explained to its customers that they where causing a great deal of damage the first couple of miles until it could flow and lubricate

46 Ford Business Coupe?

Citroen Traction Avant.

What a great hat!

This car is probably small enough to fit in the back of a truck and It has a hand crank to start it. That’s pretty much all I can say about it. I couldn’t find any tags, names or symbols. Is it something worth going back to try and get it out of the woods and restore? I’ve posted on several groups and asked everyone I know and nobody knows what it is

Hi All, It's been a while since I posted here. Last weekend my wife and I along with a bunch of friends attended a 10 course Titanic re-enactment dinner at an Edwardian period hotel in the Blue Mountains, located 70 miles west of Sydney and 120 miles from our home on the Central Coast. The hotel was purchased by its current owner 18 months ago and is undergoing a fabulous and sensitive restoration. Of course there is a Buick angle with me in my '36, my long-term friend Dave recently buying a '37 Buick and Michael and his '41 Sedanette, all Fisher bodies,. A pleasant weekend was had by all with the Buicks out and about around the area over the weekend. Please enjoy the photos. Cheers Paul