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  2. Hi I believe those are from the coupe or convert as the sedan one looks different. What are you asking for those, I would want them as spares. Thanks Steve
  3. I was not yet completely ready with sheet metal: the doors were waiting. The ones on the car were really bad. I contacted a known supplier in the USA; (he does advertise in the Self-Starter, the Cadillac club magazine) he said that he had a good pair of doors. I asked again about rust and he said that he spent the whole Sunday with his son to inspect them and they are excellent. OK, please ship them! Well, I don't know what for glasses he had at the time; maybe the ones to observe a sun's eclipse: they were as bad as mines (or they rusted in the plane between USA and Europe). So with 4 doors, I could do 2, but I had to weld some new sheetmetal; the lower outside panels were also made from scratch for both doors. Are you surprised if I don't buy anything anymore at this location?
  4. This week's auctions include original hubcaps including 1916-17 Auburn, 32-34 Lincoln K, 30-33 Chrysler Imperial, 14-18 Willys Knight, and 32-33 Cadillac. Also a number of enamel radiator emblems, some Boyce Motometers and dogbone radiator caps and much more, please check it out here: https://www.ebay.com/sch/rusty_packard/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
  5. Finally progress.... And yes I like barn red!
  6. Price reduced to $449 with shipping still included, I would really like to sell these as a set to someone who can put them on a car. Don' be afraid to make me an offer, you never know...
  7. A slight correction if I may.....it's "powder" coat (because they use powder). Not "power" coat. I know....picky, picky, picky....
  8. In thinking about it, I wonder if the crankcase actually gets hot enough to make a difference? I don't imagine it gets hotter than hot oil and I've never been scalded by the oil when I drained a hot engine...maybe 140 to 150 degrees? This is only 40 to 50 degrees hotter than the ambient temperature on a hot day in New England. This morning I bored and reamed the hole in the center. First I set it up in the 4-jaw chuck and indicated the guide piece I made yesterday. Then bored it round again. I took it out to a little less than 1/64 under the finished size - about .012 and reamed it with a 7/8 reamer. This is it... it fits the camshaft perfectly. Now I have to double check some measurements and turn the OK. That is the really tense operation because there is just about no wiggle room.
  9. It is doubtful that you will find one. They weren't common back in the day. You may find a tag under the back seat with a trim code for the upholstery but that is not a build sheet. A window sticker and protecto-plate are more common. You can determine some of the factory installed options by de-coding the data plate on the firewall.
  10. I don't think any of those codes will cause your issues as you originally surmised. As others have suggested, new plug wires are a good idea especially if their history is unknown. The Magnavox ignition gets a bad rap that I feel is undeserved, although the later Delco is demonstrably more powerful. The Magnavox ICM does appear to have a greater failure rate than the Delco, but conversely, the Magnavox coils appear to have less issues than the Delco. I believe the failure of one half of the package, coil or ICM, long term will cause the failure of the other half. I would do the plug wires first and investigate further if the problem persists.
  11. Today
  12. complete with big mounting bracket $500 + shipping from calif email for add'l pixs dualghia@hoymail.com
  13. The gift that keeps giving, the seller was digging through his grandfather's papers and found the owner's manual. It is still available. I have no space, it is sitting outside. I bolted the transmission back in (no converter) reattached the cross member and replaced the bolts grandpa removed from the steering. It is now ready to easily load and transport. Cant someone please give this car a home and keep it from deteriorating?
  14. Floor mat. I got mine from a store that sells cleaning supplies etc to industrial users. They had difference widths and sold it by the foot.
  15. I have noticed this car on Ebay. A very beautiful and desirable Buick!
  16. Can you post a picture of the entire assembly? And if you have not yet removed the motor from the assembly, do not do so!
  17. Not sure if these folks can help. https://quadrajetparts.com/choke-thermostats-c-228_755.html
  18. Hello Jim, Sorry to say these images are not my car and I don't even remember where they came from. These old oil filters are pretty hard to come by anymore. The really difficult ones are the filters with both ports in just the one end like the ones that they used on the 1930-31 DC-8s! I wished I could be of more help.
  19. Hello sir I have and oil filer with bracket but a slight different let me know if u can use. Serg 909 609-5920 Calif
  20. Aluminum crankcases are somewhat porous, so oil from within the crankcase can and does migrate to the outer surface--over time, of course. You can paint Gyptal on the inside surface of the crankcase to stop that process, but there may be oil within the aluminum which hasn't made its way to the exterior yet. On my 1925 Pierce-Arrow Series 80 4-passenger coupe, owned for 21 years and now at the Pierce-Arrow Museum at Gilmore, I cleaned the exterior of the crankcase with brake cleaner and scrub pads, then applied Eastwood's Aluma-Blast, which leaves a matte aluminum finish and provides enough sealing so that oil drips, settled breather fumes, etc., can be easily wiped off to preserve the appearance. Three plus years ago, I posted 50-some photos of this car in the galleries or albums section of this site. To see how it looked 8 years after this treatment, search by "Grimy" or "1925 Pierce-Arrow." Although the Aluma-Blast does not look exactly like the naked cast aluminum when these crankcases were first installed, at the time it seemed to be the best option available.
  21. First off THANK YOU! Glad the whole world hasn't gone power coat crazy, if you like the look of fake things PC is your thing, real men paint things. I made a fixture 40+ years ago out of old Model A & T parts to hold the wheel while I turned it by hand. Painting the back of the spokes first is the key to full coverage. Practice with primer, red primer works best on blasted parts, it allows you to see what is covered. Bob
  22. If you are just buying the car that has set for years, then I would pull the oil pan and inspect and clean all of the junk in the pan. You can then use any oil that you like. New oil will not harm the engine or bearings. The worst oil today is better than the best oil "in the day". Change all of the fluids and replace with new. As for transmission lube, I would use what it says to use in the owners/service manual. Many older cars called for steam oil or 600 wt oil. Most of that oil from my investigation is GL1 without additives. Plain mineral oil from my understanding. Same for the differential. Just another persons opinion and what I use.
  23. Beltfed

    V12 Lifter?

    That’s what we are here for. All of us have questions on this beast of a motor. I believe a number of guys on this forum know more about the v-12 than the Lincoln engineers who designed it. Good luck.
  24. Keep in mind that we aren't talking about rapid spinning. Just a slow turn that gives you access to all parts of the wheel and prevents runs in the paint. Couple revolutions per minute. 20+ years ago when we painted my Auburn's wheels we just turned them by hand. Mounted them onto a cross plate bolted in place on a husky threaded rod and suspended the rod between a pair of jack stands on tables, so the wheels were at chest height. Perfect for spraying. Clamped a vise grip to the rod and used that to turn the wheel. Did one at a time. Only took 10-15 minutes of turning before the paint and hardener set up. Used a small Binks paint gun -- not the big Devilbus. Used acrylic enamel paint with a hardener and anti-wrinkle agent. Really stacked the paint on to fill in the pits. Worked beautifully. Of course everything has changed now -- the paint chemistry (and toxicity), paint guns and even the air compressors. Prep work included sandblasting, priming, filling and sanding, but not all that much. Can't really do much of that with thin wire spokes.
  25. I believe that your car is similar to this "replicar", replica, or "kit car". http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/uploads/photoalbum/1933-cadillac-v-16-convertible-custom--1.jpg http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/uploads/photoalbum/1933-cadillac-v-16-convertible-custom--9.jpg This is similar to yours except for the trunk (or "boot", depending upon where you are from). A gentleman in our area owns one, and was kind enough to allow it to be used as a "billboard", with a large sign on it which directed passers-by to our annual local AACA antique car show in Manassas, Va., several years ago. I do not know which company manufactured this replica automobile. It has a 429 cubic inch Ford engine. Here is the original model of Cadillac upon which the replicar was based: a 1933 Cadillace V-16 Victoria Convertible. https://serdafied.files.wordpress.com/2010/04/33cadv16a.png?w=614 (I'm not sure why one photo posted, and the rest remained as links. Also, it appears that your car more nearly resembles the Duesenberg shown in the previous post, than it does the 1933 Cadillac reproduction that I showed. However, it does appear possible that both of these replica automobiles were produced by the same company.)
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