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When my wife's grandfather was born they thought he was going to die, so they wrote "Boy" on the birth certificate. But he didn't die and his legal name was Boy. So they named him Boyce.

I thought they were fitted as standard?

Ted, few of us here gathered drive like kids. That's not the point. What Rocketraider above describes is a speed trap on steroids, more about a greedy cabal using safety, in this case, as excuse for profiteering. Even with 80+ year-old cars capable of an honest 100 mph, cruising with no mechanical trauma at 65-70+, many of like to burble backroads at 40-45 and tire of breeders impatient to get to Starbucks or the mall in their disposable transportation modules crowd, tailgate us. Like to drive my stick regular car in relaxed fashion, too, these days. So "don't speed" is first nature. But sometimes clipping along in light traffic or off hours only to be ticket fodder is a real drag.

I have 2 1949 Buick super convertibles. They came to me unassembled. One for parts and one to finish. I am trying to assemble the front Bench seat at this time. The seat adjusts via the hydraulic cylinder mounted underneath. A few questions: 1. Where and how does the hydraulic cylinder mount to the seat? Is there a cross beam of some sort? 2. Where is the power switch located for the seat? It looks similar to the window switches. 3. Is the lever on the left side of the seat still needed if I use the Hydraulics? If hooked up the lever releases the seat to adjust manually. It seems redundant to have the manual lever and a hydraulic switch to do the same thing. Any help or pictures would be appreciated. Thank you

Depends. Is it a Combi-coupe?

Michael, your packard deserves its own thread.

I found the oil can on eBay and the wings were generously given to me by someone on here, I just forget who. That’s pretty bad of me isn’t it. I thought that was a great place for them to go.

Nice car, ugly wheels. He did post a price, although somewhat wishful. Just saw a ‘64 427 car for sale on FB for about $10,000 more than this. Wonder if this one was bought right at Mecum and now is being flipped.

Don’t dispute that. You mention if the seller can document the build. Without the engine and trans, what build? Maybe I’m wrong and maybe it will sell for his asking. And maybe/probably there are too many buyers with more money than brains and too many sellers cashing in on the stupidity.

1972 Buick Riviera Rare Turbine wheel covers On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/296379108588?

Any Autoport survivors ?

Not 100% certain, but if you can remove a door lock cylinder, a competent locksmith should be able to cut a key for it. Gather the same key also locks the glovebox, however the glovebox lock cylinder may not be as complex as the door one to cut from. If the car is drivable, you can then check the results while you wait. Correct GM key blanks can be found on the internet if your local locksmith does not carry them Good luck and some photos if you have. We all love photos Cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

For 1938 Buick series 60 and the following decals: https://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/literature-decals/1937-47-oil-filter-decal-of-25/ https://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/literature-decals/1936-46-oil-bath-air-filter-decal-af-4/ I want to ensure I place them at the 100% correct/original placement. Does anybody know about where to find pictures showing the exact correct placement?

I asked a question in techical about this flange on the cowl. I didn't know what it was for. No one else knew either. But my part car buddy, who has a 47 DeSoto took a pic under his dash. It turns out that a strut bolts on there and helps support the steering column by securing it to the cowl. Good to know, so I'm putting this obscure info here to possibly help other restorers with the same question.

That car is a 1907 Itala, and judging by the length of the hood, the 6 cylinder 75hp model. In 1907 Itala had just earned eternal fame by winning the Peking (now Beijing) to Paris race, making the brand popular in many European countries like France, England and also Germany indeed.

It looks like an Autoport Jitney. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=27793

A photo of my grandfather camping in the desert.

Quote: If you are going to "drive the problem" out of the car, you need an additive that works on sticking rings. Lots of snake oil out there. Not sure what is better than another. Just put a cupful of ATF in the gas tank with at least a half full tank and see what happens .

If you are going to "drive the problem" out of the car, you need an additive that works on sticking rings. Lots of snake oil out there. Not sure what is better than another. A leak down test will tell you if #6 is a valve or piston problem. That would determine if you pull the oil pan (pistons come out the bottom) or pull the head for a valve job. I am in the court with Don. I would not drive the problem out, but rather do the leak down and follow up on that data. If it's a piston, then it is an opportunity to inspect the oil lines and the oil screen. There is also no loss in pulling the cylinder head and cleaning all the carbon out and dressing the valves. Hugh

Actor Robert stack was a dry lakes racer

1926 Buick photos if this helps?

Actor Robert Stack was a dry lakes racer

Well, Andy, you certainly began a popular topic here! Thanks for the inspiration.

All I can think of is, How would you parallel park this?