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  2. I don't think there are two styles. The only ones I've seen are the long ribbed ones. Who knows what OPGI might try to pass off on unsuspecting buyers. Give most anyone of us an OPGI catalog and we'll show you a bogus product on every page.
  3. Looks like the car but I thought they were all painted white or gray. The car I see looks black. Of course it could have been used and was painted. rhurst
  4. Here's how mine on my '63 is routed, not sure if it's factory correct or not. Straight up, behind heater hose, into clamp. Jim
  5. Car on far right is 1938 Ford Standard, not 1937. Grill is different.
  6. MNR used to sell new ones with and without EQ but seems they only repair them now.
  7. Can you post some more details like the options it has and maybe the data plate? When were the engine and trans rebuilt? Where's the car located? Thanks.
  8. The buggy we had did have a top so the brackets you see would be for the top. I hope you can find the one that went with it. No ideas on the cutout in the trunk lid unless perhaps it allowed the lid to clear items stored inside when it was opened. The leatherette would flex to allow this. It does seem unusual for the seat back and bottom to be of different materials and design. On a buggy of this quality, I can't understand this unless the seat back was damaged in use and repaired inexpensively long ago by someone not good at upholstery.
  9. BLACK PEPPER works if money is scarce!!
  10. Think the tipping year was around 1980-81. GM had computer cars, the Atari 2600 had Pong and Frogger, and the IBM PC was introduced. Suddenly fast cars had competition and were not green. From 80s through 90s it was not politically correct to be a gearhead. Muscle cars (gas guzzlers) were cheap. Japanese buzz bombs were de rigueur. Took a few years after the NMSL for HP to come back. This century cars are interesting again. OTOH in the 50s, 60s, and into the 70s American cars were king and there were few imports, mostly from Europe on the right coast where all the people were. Took the fuel crisis (I & II) and the 55mph speed limit to encourage the tiny cars already popular where gas was sold by the liter and much more expensive than here. We also never had a horsepower tax until the Gas Guzzler tax. So really is nothing surprising, kids have a lot more to do than get greasy and are millions and millions more cars now than when the AACA started to dilute the market. Some are even interesting. I do suspect that restomods are here to stay and for the moment are bringing more at auctions than restored cars (and cost less). Frankly I am temped to put the Muncie in my Judge in a big baggie and install a Tremec and do the same with a rack and pinion. The Pontiac 400 will stay but the Rochester will get replaced by either dual AFBs or a Holley FI. Decision, decisions.
  11. you should be able to remove the temp gauge from the housing, most AC factory gauges are design that way in this era. But Pontiac used a similar design for the gauges in 1955-56, pictured is the backside of the temp gauge and amp gauge, if your buick gauges housing looks the same, it appears that you'll have to remove the housing first, then un crimp the housing to get to the gauges.
  12. The PA ultra would be my next choice for a tour car/BDE/BCA National, a former employee of mine and friend/roommate of my brother, has or had one of the 'new york' version PA, he was a GM employee who worked at the Linden Assembly Plant and never had a Buick as a company car, had Cadillac's and others so was very cool when he brought his family to Michigan from NH and stopped by to see me. I had never heard or seen one of these cars. Another friend who does appraisals happened upon one last year out east too. And I saw one earlier this year and it wasn't black and gray at the big box on the corner. So you could be right, collectors item, I really want another 1999 Riviera Silver Arrow or just 1999 Riv! 1995 is good for a daily but I want a tour/cruise car.
  13. Master Chassis Parts Book, 1936-1957, effective November 1957 as pictured. $95 includes shipped to US48 address. Contents in a 3 ring binder. Cover is from a 1958 book but all contents appear to be from the 1957 edition. Book has normal wear for its age. Look complete, but have not gone thru page by page so cannot guarantee.
  14. I have to admit that I love little projects on the car. They're very rewarding. Since I've been driving all summer, I haven't been doing much tinkering, but while getting the Buick ready for a long drive tomorrow, I figured I'd attack a few little jobs. I changed the oil yesterday but there's another oil that should probably be changed: the air cleaner. I've never serviced it and didn't even know what I'd find inside so maybe it's time to take a look, eh? The "oil bath" air cleaner on most old cars is about as effective an air cleaner as you'll find. They're heavy and messy, but the science behind them is sound. Inside, there's a kind of copper or bronze mesh, like a scrubbing pad from your kitchen. Underneath, there's an oil reservoir. In theory, the air is moving so fast as it is pulled along the oil at the bottom of the housing that heavier dirt particles can't make the 180-degree turn up to the outlet and get stuck in the oil. Additionally, some oil vapor is pulled along with the air and coats all the millions of fibers inside the filter element. As the air passes through the mesh, any small particles that didn't get caught in the oil at the bottom can't avoid hitting at least one fiber along the way. Since it's coated with oil, it sticks instead of going into your carburetor. Eventually, as more and more oil coats the mesh, it drains back into the reservoir, taking the dirt with it. Oil bath filters are so effective that they're still used on many heavy-duty tractors designed for dusty conditions. The fact that the oil can be changed and the element rinsed off and reused so it's very economical. So that's what I decided to do tonight. Here's the Buick dual carburetor air cleaner. Air enters through the hose, where it is channeled down the center of the housing to the oil reservoir at the bottom, then it is pulled up through the filter elements and out to the carburetors. Once it's opened up it'll make more sense. Here's the underside of the lid where you can see how the air comes in and is directed down through... ...the center and into the oil reservoir at the bottom... ...and then up through the filter element. Once I had everything disassembled, I hosed it down with brake cleaner, including the reservoir and filtration element. Technically, the filter should never wear out and while I didn't know what I'd find inside, I was pleased to find both plenty of [fairly dirty] oil and a copper mesh filter element. Once it was all cleaned up, I could see that there was an oil level mark inside the reservoir so I could refill it with exactly the right amount of oil. I decided to under-fill it a bit, reassemble the two bottom pieces, then finish filling it by dumping the oil over the filter element--I figured that would give it a head-start while the oil gets pulled up into the mesh as I drive. Most filters should have a fill level indicator of some sort. So I guess it's ready to go tomorrow. Let's hope for a good weekend!
  15. Probably Wray Kniffin, he's a member on here or email
  16. I have no idea, I just got it from a google search and it did not state where it was located.
  17. keiser31

    1930 cf fuse size

    Rhode Island Wiring is where I got my 1931 DB harness. EXCELLENT quality and price.
  18. Pretty straightforward actually, I replaced the dryer, expansion valve and compressor, including replacing all o-rings. Flushed the evaporator, hoses and condenser. Put it under vacuum overnight and added 34-36oz of refrigerant. Got it blowing 38-39 degrees tonight. Also, fyi, the lower fitting closest to the compressor is the low side. Both ac valves on my v6 were the same size and neither one was marked. My biggest headache was the different 134 bottles, some are the puncture style, some are self sealing, some have their own nozzles.
  19. In 1924 there was a red sport touring as well as a special green sport touring. Not sure on the difference.
  20. Today
  21. Looking for sidemount covers for my 31 Franklin with 650x19 tires . Any ideas welcomed
  22. Not for his particular app/requirements, and I have seen hundreds of heads that had that much play and more that came off good running engines, but I would prefer less myself.
  23. Just so you are aware, I have never done a conversion, always had a friend who only did AC repair take care of that since I was in CA and you had to have separate equipment for each system for evacuation, etc. Jim, I would recommend taking your TC to an AC shop for an estimate. That way you will get the best idea of cost and parts, especially since you have the GM compressor and you may even need major components replaced in order to have a dependable system.
  24. Sorry autonut, didn't mean you at all but It's just that I have replied top so many new member's inquiries then never hear from them again. Maybe they forget that they've posted. We want to try to help as many people as we can.
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