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  2. Tom, Bob mentioned a different plug gap than what is given for our application. Is that because he has the electronic ignition which calls for a different gap? Thanks. Bill
  3. Hi Barry are these still available if so can you post to New Zealand Thanks Les
  4. For what it's worth, your current engine may not be worn out. These engines are a 1933 design, and normally use more oil than a modern car. Pontiac was building cars intended to last 100,000 miles when a typical Chevrolet might have 2 or 3 minor overhauls in that time. Pontiacs had really hard blocks, (and also oiled the cylinders maybe a little more than other cars if you believe the shop manual, in the interest of long life). I would correct the position of the draft tube, and make sure that the breather cap is clean and open. Non-functional crankcase ventilation tends to increase oil burning. Another thing, your carburetor looks like it may have not had attention in a long time. I would make sure that it is not running too rich, as even a little bit rich will increase blue smoke a lot. I don't mean the black smoke that occurs when the engine runs extremely rich, I mean blue oil smoke. You could check that the choke opens all the way, and maybe shut it down immediately after a highway run and look at the spark plugs. Fuzzy dry sooty black indicates probably too much gas. Good luck with your project, whatever you do.
  5. Time to move this stuff on. I’m not an eBay seller so here you go: 1244899 1949 Dodge DeSoto back up lens NOS 1340191 1950-52 Dodge Rt rear lens NOS 1810411 1958 Plymouth backup lens 2pcs NOS 1879052 1959 Plymouth rail light lens 3 pcs, used. two very good one with small chip. Seven pieces total. All for $30 plus shipping. PayPal, personal check, money order ok.
  6. Dodges and Plymouth in the early 30s also had free wheeling transmissions. I do have the free wheeling knob off a plymouth but it would need an extension added to be useful... the knob is fine and is nickel finish. Does not have FW on it as I recall.
  7. Hi, I really enjoy the old hand drawn ads so in 1973 I started collecting car, truck, gas, oil, railroad, etc. ads. Over the years I've been scanning them in and have about 5000 on my website with maybe 15,000 more to go. Ads on my website are only 400x400 pixels but if you are in need or full size ads, you are most welcome to let me know the make, year and (hopefully model) of the car/truck you need and I'll see what I have and can forward the full size ad. Due to my not knowing how to scan in the early 80's, some ads are small but a lot are actual full size (8x10, 11x17). Black and white are black and white, color ads are color. I have an Ebay store where I have cleaned up a lot of ads, eliminated the backgrounds and have just the cars themselves where I print them onto t-shirts, metal signs, decals, etc... I custom print t-shirts and more - one piece minimum. My website is Thank you, Fred Melbourne FL USMC Retired
  8. Thank you Rusty. I was under the hood today and noticed this bolt missing(unable to find in the shop manual). It's on the driver side behind the oil filter. Does anyone know a part # or bolt size? (it was not me that spray bombed the block )
  9. Welcome to the Longroof Club Tony! What a cool looking wagon you got there! Rebuilding a generator is pretty easy, and something you could probably tackle. Have fun with your wagon and set up a thread in Me and My Buick Section of the forum! Looking forward to hearing more on your new Buick!
  10. Good to see you still have your charming sense of humor! I’ve had more eBay buyers flake out than follow through. I don’t think I’ll be using eBay anymore.
  11. The ONLY way to get a quality forged piston & good rings is through myself. Tom T.
  12. Not saying ANYTHING bad about Falcon, but you have to watch what's supplied & the pistons will almost undoubtedly be Egge. Tom T.
  13. I want to add my thanks to the organizers, vendors and volunteers. I think it was a great event; well organized, well attended. Great week! Joe
  14. If you entered to be Judged you should get the FIRST JUNIOR AWARD and the Grill Junior Badge will be given to you shortly. It most likely comes in the mail, or call the HQ in Hershey to pick it up if you are near by. Same with the Trophy you will be given. Congratulations, to tell the truth a lot of us don't make it on the first try and chalk it up as a learning experience. Once the badge is on you grill, next year you will be entered for Senior which gets slightly harder as the total point deductions become greater. See if you had point deductions that you need to fix. After Senior the next step is the Grand National award which you need to be at 385 points to win. Find the entry list given to you at the entry gate in the large envelope and find your class and if your name and car are listed you should have a Green sheet that goes on the car and gets a sticker from the Judge after they finish that says "JUDGED". Only question you might have is, depending on the points, did you hit the mark, the don't tell you and you can't ask them. Also read the literature you got in advance from AACA that tells you how this all works. You'll get a letter in the near future, but remember there were hundreds of cars entered that AACA will need to have time to sort through. Last thing to mention is you can request from the AACA CHIEF JUDGE a copy of the judging sheet to see what needs fixing. Get to know the guys in your class and ask them to look your car over the morning of the Meets. We all help each other this way to get it right eventually. I think you can also down load the AACA Rules for more helpful information. Doug
  15. Unless you had documentation for a cogged belt as the type used it would get a deduction under the "type specified" clause I'd think. I'll be interested to see what those with more experience say. I don't see any reference to belts at all on the CCCA rules or handbook though. I don't have any experience with them so I may be looking in the wrong area. When did they come out? I know they had toothed timing belts back in the day but I don't know anything about early toothed/cogged v belts and the internet is letting me down in searches.
  16. Welcome aboard, Tony! That is a WONDERFUL little wagon you've got there!
  17. All 1956 and earlier Crown Imperials were built /bodies by Chrysler Corporation. The very few exceptions being special orders that included custom modifications. In almost every case, Derham Coachworks, Rosemont, PA, was the go-to specialty shop for this work. In '56 Derham did two such orders for individuals (I own one). In '55 Derham converted three and all were for the Eisenhowers. '54 and earlier can be internet researched including AACA who has the photo files donated by a Derham heir. 1957- 1965 Crown Imperials were exclusively built by Ghia in Turin, Italy. For '57-59 LeBaron coupes were sent over in partial assembly for Ghia to stretch the chassis and bodywork and add their custom coachcloth interiors. 1960-65 saw LeBaron 4dr sedans sent over to start the process. Your intentions for the AACA library are EXCELLENT. Memphian and Armbruster /Stageway were not given direct contracts from Chrysler for conversions. Their work was as private contractors building a class of cars generally referred to as "airporters" referring to very long stretch, multi-door sedan conversions, mostly of entry level models for use transporting volumes of passengers for airports, hotels, and some for military bases. Memphian's specialty was usually ambulances and hearses and they built on any brand chassis you wanted.
  18. From my neighborhood today on Pender Island BC , Canada.
  19. So the car is back and I can find nothing seriously wrong with it, although there was a large puddle of what appeared to be red anti-freeze under it on the trailer. It seems that they drained out the 50/50 mix that we put in it and filled it with straight anti-freeze, possibly because he was freaking out over the engine overheating (it wasn't, but the faulty gauge said it was hot so he panicked). I'm guessing the same idiot mechanic who told him his Studebaker had to have catalytic converters (and charged him $8000 to install them) also told him to put straight anti-freeze in it to cure the problem. It won't, it will run hotter. Anti-freeze is not nearly as good as water at transferring heat in the radiator. This would explain why it would act up on hot days and in rush hour traffic. The other stuff is probably explained by a guy not knowing anything about cars or chokes or anything else. Nevertheless, it started right up and idled nicely coming off the trailer. I took it on a test drive and seemed fine. Ran it up to about 60 MPH and there was a bit of a stumble when I stepped into it at high speeds, so we'll look into that. I suspect the mechanical fuel pump is a little weak and it isn't delivering at high speeds or in hot weather. As long as it's here, I'm going to add an electric pump and replace the temperature gauge sending units. I suppose I should drain and flush the cooling system. Again. So I'll spend a large-ish pile of money, plus $1600 worth of shipping, to fix non-issues that would be simple and cheap to fix locally if he would just find an honest mechanic. He insists his "guy" is "the best" but anyone recommending 100% anti-freeze and installing catalytic converters on pre-1975 cars is a moron, not "the best." This is what people do to old cars. Think about it next time you're buying a car standing in some fool's driveway.
  20. That is correct Bill & what I normally use. They require 1/2 the voltage to fire. Are a Multi Hear Range plug that adjusts itself automatically. VERY resistant to fouling & last just about forever in our applications. Tom T.
  21. I have over 20,000 classic car ads from Acme to Zimmerman: years range from 1897 to the early/mid 60's. 132+ car manufacturers, 50 + trucks manufacturers. Stared collecting car, truck, gas, oil, etc.. ads in 1973. I really enjoy the old hand drawn ads and stopped collecting ads when photographs were being used in the early 60's. Had the ads and when computers came about and scanner I started scanning in the ads but threw away the actual ads. This was before Ebay came about so I only have maybe 50 of the ads left. I have about 5000 posted to my website and just trying to find the time to post more but if there is a special make and year you need, just ask and I'll see what I can find. Fred Melbourne FL USMC Retired
  22. And if Johns (keiser31) is not what you want, I have the Nickle plated 1931 Plymouth PA Freewheeling knob and cable
  23. Mars

    1930 cf fuse size

    Still blowing fuses. Replaced a few wires that looked real bad. I feel like a pretzel from being under the dash. It shouldn't be this hard.
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