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  2. HI Jason, Jerry Stumbled across this feed - I'm in New Zealand wanting Information on the Rolls Royce Generator from a US 1929 Springfield Phantom 1 Chassis # S255KR I would be interested in Wiring Diagram and cut out settings and parameters if possible please. KInd Regards David david@nordellrestorations.com
  3. You are replying to a thread from 2013 Does your car have a 248/263 or 320 engine?
  4. I have a '29 standard, which shares some of the same parts as a '30 series 40 and is otherwise of a similar style design. So far the items that have given me trouble are the pot metal carburetor (very easy to break/crack), the heat riser (most people block it off, but you have to block it off in at least 2 places), and the exhaust manifold - this last one was my fault, though - it is easy to crack the cast iron if you are not careful re-tightening the bolts when you take the manifold off to put in new gaskets, for example. I think the carburetor itself functions OK, but I had enough trouble with the pot metal bowl cracking or leaking that I replaced it with a 1928 brass bowl Buick carb. I have been happy ever since. You may also wish to replace the original venturi block with a new, non-pot metal version that is more durable. Some people like Tony Bult in Wisconsin have made new ones that he sells or installs in all carbs that he rebuilds. Two other things about the engine - when removing the bolts for the manifold, it is a good idea to drain or partially drain the coolant first, because you may find that removing one particular bolt will cause the coolant to flow out of that bolt hole. I asked Tony B. about this, and he says that he has seen this happen on other Buick engines ('26-'29); ie, sometimes the bolt holes were drilled too far and they penetrated the water jacket. The other area where some people have trouble is cold starting - it can take awhile for fuel to get pulled up to the carburetor, and you usually want full or heavy choke when you start. John
  5. I wish @JohnD1956...9 are licensed, but historically, not all of them move every year (3 got licensed last year). If they don’t move in a year, no oil change. I wish more of them did move and got attention annually. I don’t know what it’s like to sell a collectible Buick as I’ve never done it yet, but I’m getting to a point where that needs to happen, for the sake of the cars. The low mileage Reatta joined the fleet last year. I purchased it to keep it among collectors rather than it falling into the used car market. It may depart the collection. The 1962 hasn’t moved for a number of years - it lost the reverse clutch patch in the transmission. I’ve got a transmission rebuild kit for it, but every year has seen other priorities. I first got it on the road in 2006 and would like to see it get back there, but it just hasn’t happened. There’s a couple that realistically could be sold - I don’t see ever getting to the 1956 nor 1952. The former may find it’s way to a high school program as it’s not a very valuable car as it sits, so perhaps that’s the best way to give it more life. The Roadmaster was an impulse buy...I did drive it a bit years ago on limited use Antique plates, but it’s been slowly losing priority over the years. If I had to put an order to things, I think getting the 1929 roadworthy is the first step, then getting the 1923 mobile - it shouldn’t need much, but the longer it sits, the lengthier the list gets. Following that, I think the Invicta convertible would be the next restoration project. It’s a never-ending list around here.
  6. Thanks! I heard of it previous to 1971's MaxTrac, and it had an 'Accu-' prefix, but unsure of the exact label used. Craig
  7. More of the same... I had a few spots on the body that I was not happy with so I shot another coat of primer on. Once the primer drys good, I will flip the body over and sand the bottom side and then color will be applied!
  8. Hi Doug, and a great big forum welcome to you and your cars !! I enjoyed reading about what you do at https://www.tobyknollgarage.com. Great job on the Studillac too. You honor us with your presence, old man, (yeah lots of us here are mid-60s to early 80s of age). - Cadillac Carl P.S. Enter Studillac in the search box. You will come across a Studillac that a friend of mine made. 500 bored 0.050 over for a 514.
  9. Bowdown hood, Look-up-in-the-sky headlights and starfish wheels, almost a cartoon car. Not every car Amos Northup designed was a masterpiece.
  10. Looks like someone just got the punt from the Embassy Club and kicked that poor Plymouth in the low-beam!! Craig
  11. I have also seen it in operation in an Orient Buckboard. Craig
  12. Wow @Thriller !!! That's some collection you've amassed! Looks like many are ready to drive too! You must have a month's worth of work just keeping up with oil changes! 😁
  13. Yeah the woods were standard in Australia and disc wheels a option Funny the differences there are. Oh how I know about going down hills fast all my Chevs have two wheel brakes!! 😁 Actually I tend to go down hills much slower (and cautiously) then going up them. The brakes are fine if you know what you’re doing.
  14. This is definitely getting to me. The distributor shaft does fall into the oil pump shaft, but I do not know why it doesn't drop all the way down. nothing damaged in the distributor or oil pump shaft to prevent it from dropping all the way down. Yes, the distributor can be installed 180 degrees off. I have try positioning it tooth by tooth and alway 3/8" shy of seating. As mentioned earlier, I have had this distributor in and out a few times without any problems.
  15. It's not gonna be any better than a perfectly tuned carburetor in a climate controlled environment. That being said, if you can find a way to keep a carburetor perfectly tuned for every dynamic environment change, I'd like to know.
  16. No covers, but they may have used a special bolt with a serrated edge that matches the original nut style of the lamp to bracket (takes a special wrench though). That being said, perhaps get some stainless bolts and remove the SAE head markings.
  17. she's a roller, now to get her cleaned up & see if it runs
  18. ☹️ Well if you see one please let me know. Thanks
  19. The item with two tabs belonged to someone else.
  20. I'd think you'd gain a ton
  21. I found a mount that would bolt to the dynaflow in my 63 that had a stud on the bottom. One hole in the center of the cross member and all was good. But that's been many years ago.
  22. I now have to assemble the intake manifold...something I've been putting off because I don't particularly care for the polishing I'll have to do. But, there was no putting it off now so I soldered the elbows to a short piece of tubing to hold while I filed and sanded them. They took about 2-1/2 hours each to do and I have to admit they came out pretty good. I assembled the pieces on the engine to get they straight with each other. I then stuck the interface between the threaded elbow and the flange in two places to lock it in place. Then I very carefully took it apart and soldered the elbows to the flanges. Ordinarily, I'd be a little worried about using plain lead solder here but the elbows are threaded into the flanges so all the solder is doing is holding them tight and filling whatever space there is between the male and female thread. After cleaning the elbows up, I reassembled it again and soldered the tube in place. I think it's ok... tomorrow I'll finish up the carburetor side. They certainly don't look like the pipe fittings they started life as.
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