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  2. But, my November built 1932 RR PI Springfield, that was delivered new to the owner who had a residence at the Plaza Hotel in New York City, had a Blue stoplight (it also had a red running light and a clear back-up light) matched to only having a driver's side taillight (just like a bulk of Duesenberg's only had the driver's side taillight)- and it was $22,000 new.
  3. These are all good points. All the pictures except for the single period one just don't look right. I guess there are probably many factors. Expensive in period whitewalls on an economy car is a definite giveway. Also, the condition of the cars is like they were brand new, when 99 percent of the time in a real photo they are beat to crap. This Stearns picture was taken in 1948 or thereabouts just before the car was put in a barn for 60 years. It is good for comparison on all the points you guys are making.
  4. Looks great -- I'm jealous!
  5. I have a 1963 Rambler American with a Bendix 3TBAM radio, which I believe is all transistor. The manual for the radio and a sticker on the side warn to 'Use 20 Ohm Speaker Only!', and the original speaker is ruined, the cone is ripped out. Unfortunately, it seems like 20 Ohm resistance speakers were last made in the 60s and are near-impossible to find today. What's the best option for me here? I'd like the radio to work, and I've heard using the wrong resistance speaker can damage the amplifier.
  6. The final product on the front. Off to get the rears finished and installed.
  7. They added the wooden interior window sills in 1932 as well - and they are impressive wooden window sills too.
  8. I agree that idle and cruise are two different situations. It seems to me that it's possible to have good air/fuel at idle and become lean at high RPM. Cam timing (i.e., intake/exhaust overlap) increases scavenging at high RPM. Add to that the fact that your fancy headers must be much less restrictive than the original 'log' manifold. You may need to increase main jet size. As others have said reading the spark plug condition and EGT should tell you what's going on.
  9. So next I greased up each of the front bearings and installed them. Those front wheels sure roll nice with all those cleaned up and re-greased parts.
  10. ,update cars back home now used it on three weekends , its a hell of lot better and drives great , thanks all for the info
  11. After greasing up those bearings I installed my new spring loaded rubber seals. They fit like a glove. I like the way they fit and look.
  12. Yesterday I put the bearings back into my wheels and put the wheels back on the car. Greasing these front bearings is truly hands on greasing bearings one at a time! The new ones I bought from McMaster-Carr fit perfectly.
  13. My intention in referencing the Ford/Edsel vehicles in the thread title was my attempt to illustrate that they were, in my opinion, the only cars in the photos that might be of relevant collector interest. I guess there could be some collector interest in the two Chevrolets, as well as the Jaguar. However, they didn't really stand out to me in the midst of all these particular Ford products. My bad.
  14. The two openings should have metal panote the screw holes around each of these two openings.
  15. Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and I was wondering if you could help me with something. I have an old steering wheel (see photos attached) that I found in my gran father garage and I was wondering if you could help me determine for which car is it? I have noticed that 28 Chrysler has posted some photos of a steering wheel restoration that looks very very similar to the one I have. If you could please help me, it would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance.
  16. Granted, but by the time you fix all the other issues and then add the cost of a hard to find part and the cost of welding it in, the value is gone. Anything can be fixed if you throw enough money at it.
  17. IF frank wants to hide the repair, you will not see it. Many of the people who have work done don’t mind the look of the repair, as it just shows a well used and serviced machine. The hit and miss engine guys show them off like a scar earned in battle. I am of the opinion that a block or head stitched by Frank is as good as new or “not repaired”. When Frank does it, I consider it maintenance. He is that good. I have brought him the most obscure engine or head with a crack and an old incorrect repair. He fixed every one. I handed him a head off a 1909 car, and he said “haven’t seen one of those in fifteen years, they are a pain in the ass, and I need to cut a window in from the inside to make the repair” yes, they cut holes in other spots to gain access, then stitch the access hole closed. One other thing about Frank.............he is probably the most learned and educated man on the planet on how casting was done from the 1880’s to the 1990’s. He knows what a water jacket or passage looks like from the outside.........a lifetime of opening and closing things up. I recently asked him how long it takes full time to become “gifted” at stitching.........he said ten to fifteen years......full time exclusively only stitching. A trip to his shop is always entertaining...........there are some of the rarest and unusual engines in the world that are in pieces, and people want them quietly put back together without anyone knowing about the repair. I routinely see engines from eight figure cars at his shop. Ed
  18. I never tried the original rims after the conversion, but wasn't concerned anyway as I went to the LeSabre 16" rims. I believe the rotors are 11". For me it was to stop the brake rattle and easier rear brake pad swaps.
  19. Today
  20. I think it best, when taking period photos, not to include people as thy are a dead giveaway for modern photos. Mainly because one cannot really capture the period look. Hair cuts aren't authentic, clothing doesn't fit right or look correct. Usually too, the cars just look too new or too fancy, especially with the whitewalls. Of course, this is just my opinion.
  21. The horn coils laying flat rather than standing upward and no screen mesh cover over the front is typical of a style of horn used on the AA style Maxwells, circa 1909 to 1911, the little 2 cylinder cars. Not sure it's a direct match. Most surviving cars use whatever horn they can find so there are few photo references to go to.
  22. I have a 50 Windsor I am parting out or sell as hole car . It is a solid car very little rust on the body . most of the pot metal is pitted. The engine ran when I got the car .Going to scrape it in the spring if not gone , To much around here have to clean up . king32
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