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I routed the speedo cable over the exhaust shield with the trans. wires, then up the bell housing to the engine, and back into the cowl hole for connection to the speedo when I install it Monday. Is that right?

Rare Model F

Before you pull it apart, have you run evapo rust through tit for a while? It will help prevent the bolts from pulling out the threads in the block. You can fill it with oil after the evapo treatment to help ease the bolts out also. Why take it apart without parts on hand?

Body looks to be 2 different shades of the same color. Hopefully it’s just the lighting.

Isn’t going to be long before this is a really good deal for someone. 34,000 miles and it’s needs front end work. That doesn’t add up to me.

Why? Supply and demand…….the park has been very busy on the weekends in the fall……..and they pay more than car people.

Nice car…..love the look. These cars have been “hot” on the market lately. Many have brought what I consider very high numbers. Wouldn’t surprise me that this car blows past the estimate by a mile. Have you driven one? They can be fairly heavy to the feel on the ones ai have driven.

This guy selling 3 Rivs

…and the license plate

Great! Have any photos?

Gasket between what and what? Between the glass and the metal or between the two l layers of metal? There should be sealer between the layers of metal and urethane between the glass and the metal.

Since we are near gate 3, we saw vendors loaded up and apparently heading out. This is unfortunate but unfortunately not unusual. As Craig said, Saturday may be the nicest day since Tuesday.

My retired AFB rebuilder did a "Quick-and-Dirty" on my AFB in his trailer park garage for $400. Should've DIY in hindsight.

A rusty Jag is a parts car. But The TR MIGHT be worth fixing. Rockers are no big deal and dent's ? That's really no big problem if the metal is sound. A person would have to have a good look and see just how deep the rust has eaten. I grew up doing rust repair on 1965 - 70 Mustangs. Brought several rare ones back from the dead. Mostly convertibles but the odd Boss and Shelby thrown in to keep things interesting. That was my day job , my hobby was { still is } MGA's and the like. Nice thing about TR6's is that almost everything from complete frames to pretty much every piece of sheet metal is available new. MGA's are not nearly as well supported. Way more hand fabrication to restore one. The hard top on the TR is aftermarket and essentially valueless.

Hi Everyone, my son Tom (business as usual), put new front brake shoes on his 40’ Special, mod. 46 yesterday. He adjusted the brakes shoes hard against the drum, then backed them off 10 clicks on the adjuster wheel. (Arbitrary number of clicks) After pressing the primary shoe against the drum, we checked the clearances on the secondary shoe per shop manual instructions. Had the proper clearance on one end of the brake shoe and had no clearance on the other end. As I understand it, the adjustment we need to make is with the anchor bolt, but the manual does not say how that adjustment is made. Loosen the anchor bolt nut, and then what? I guess I’m missing something here. Tomorrow we will loosen the nut and see what we can figure out. Any input on this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill

This information is a great help for me thankyou. On the top part of the windshield that swings do you know the dimension from the top of the horizontal frame to the bottom of glass ? Thanks.