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Hi Everyone, my son Tom (business as usual), put new front brake shoes on his 40’ Special, mod. 46 yesterday. He adjusted the brakes shoes hard against the drum, then backed them off 10 clicks on the adjuster wheel. (Arbitrary number of clicks) After pressing the primary shoe against the drum, we checked the clearances on the secondary shoe per shop manual instructions. Had the proper clearance on one end of the brake shoe and had no clearance on the other end. As I understand it, the adjustment we need to make is with the anchor bolt, but the manual does not say how that adjustment is made. Loosen the anchor bolt nut, and then what? I guess I’m missing something here. Tomorrow we will loosen the nut and see what we can figure out. Any input on this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill

This information is a great help for me thankyou. On the top part of the windshield that swings do you know the dimension from the top of the horizontal frame to the bottom of glass ? Thanks.

Ok, I will take the cable out and clean the lithium off of it. I saw guys use wheel bearing grease. Thanks for the tip about the bottom 2/3 of the cable. For some reason, probably other cars I have worked, I thought the speedo gear would down low on the trans. But on a 48 DeSoto, it's way up on top right behind the trans solenoid. And my original rubber cups that went over the solenoid, and interrupter switch were cracking due to age, so used some new EverDry spark plug covers as substitutes. Looks like they are a good fit.

My 1927 Paige 6-45 sedan has its original tail lamp (not like this one!), which is a simple however unusual style that I have never found a complete one quite like it at a swap meet. I have seen a few same model Paige cars that have the same tail lamp, and a couple pictures or era advertisements showing it as being the correct lamp. The original Paige tail lamp has a simple two bolt mount on it that exactly fits the spare tire carrier where the tail lamp was originally mounted. What I did find and buy at a swap meet about forty years ago, was an exact match for the lamp itself, but with a universal mounting bracket very similar to what your tail lamp has. I have seen a few other tail lamps with similar universal mounts. Lamp manufacturers of course wanted to increase sales anywhere they could, and it would make sense that they should offer universal replacements of lamps made for other cars. That is a neat looking lamp! it could make a great after-market touch for many a roaring '20's car!

We were there Wednesday and returned on Thursday. It was remarkable to see all the vendors set up Thursday at the top (flat) part of the North Field. Vendor numbers are definitely heading back up. We couldn’t go Friday, but the chilly wet weather made me happy we didn’t. We will go back Saturday. Yeah, some vendors will have left- but 64 and sunny at Carlisle sounds like a great idea.

The 90 hp roadster advertised has 29 inch wheels (38X4-1/2). Wouldn't that make it an Autocrat not a Limited?

1918 Stutz Series G Victoria Tourer Coachwork by Stutz https://cars.bonhams.com/auction/29953/lot/318/1918-stutz-series-g-victoria-tourer-chassis-no-g3658-engine-no-3462/#photos This Bonhams auction will be selling this Stutz. I believe the 360 Cubic inch Four is the same as the stutz bearcat (correct me if that is erroneous). What thoughts do people have about this car, its Estimate (55K-75K). Bearcats from this year are pricey. Is this interesting to those in the know, or not?

Having just put new brake shoes on my son’s 1940 Buick Special, we checked the distance between the brake shoe and the drum with a .010 feeler gauge as shown in shop manual. Had perfect clearance on one side and no clearance on the other side. Manual states to make adjustment with the anchor bolt. I can see how to loosen it, but not sure how to adjust it. We adjusted the shoes hard against the drum and backed off 10 clicks on the adjuster wheel. Pushed the primary shoe against the drum and checked the clearance before checking the afore mentioned clearances. Do we just loosen the nut on the anchor bolt, then tighten it again? Thanks in advance for any help with this issue. Bill

Looks pretty good, @Smartin. Might there be some way to reward those who kept the Nailhead rather than using a different GM motor? Just a thought, which might celebrate "Buick" more than "GM". Take care, Willis Bell 20811

Ah, a follow-up, Thanks Robert! Could be a common theme? The 1963 Riviera has a conventional U-Joint there. I have a 1964 Drive Shaft assembly which is a core. Badly worn! Unreal how during manufacture they tacked-on a substantial lump of balance weights, four! QC back in 1964 should've failed the rear section and scrapped. Took this image just now and yes, the rear flange is locked. Notice trim balance weights. Not a Trim Balance. More like correction weights for faulty manufacture!

Stunning car, show is this weekend. I will take pictures of all the cars for you.

1958 Edsel teletouch is an electrical motor control for the automatic transmission. It’s, electrical, it’s gonna break. You are parked If you want to use the car you rig up something to manually move the arm on the transmission. Typically people cut holes in the floor and bolted in some cheap parts house shifter. Adapting a thick cable and a knob would take more home engineering but would look better in the end. Nothing about it is factory.

I wouldn't use white lithium grease on anything. It was the best lightweight grease around a few decades ago but that was then. It turns into something like concrete when it gets old, and requires periodic cleaning out. Vaseline would be infinitely superior in this regard. Almost anything would. Old fashioned speedometer cable lube wasn't white lithium anyway, it was lightweight grease with some graphite in it. You were only supposed to put it on the bottom 2/3 of the cable because it creeps, and you don't want it climbing up into the speedometer head. Today I would look for something modern and synthetic that won't turn to concrete or goo like white lithium would. I probably used Redline CV-2 on mine. Plenty of others would work. This is for the cable. If there is an oil wick, use oil on it.

For sale on Facebook: 1960 Chrysler Corporation promotional comic book in North Greece, NY - $60 - Must be a member of Facebook to access Seller's contact information Link: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/950712793090083/-1960-Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth-DeSoto-Promotional-Comic-Book Seller's Description: 1960 Chrysler Dodge Plymouth DeSoto Promotional Comic Book Condition: Used - like new Chrysler promotional comic book. In excellent condition. No bends, tears or stains.

Excellent link for an amazing hotel but you have to check out Friday. That means a late night drive home after the awards. Why didn't they not extent the special rate for another night so we can check out Saturday??

Any pics of the swap meet?

Thanks for any keen eye there..Brother just digging out other parts including PS and brackets I will see if he picks it up before I get there next week otherwise onto it then... Well we had a new plastic or nylon whatever it is in a box and given the old one lasted 117,ooo miles we stuck with it, right or wrong the bucks have to stop flowing somewhere. Appreciate you thoughts though we had considered all these things along the way.. Ciao Dundee

Thank you for your idea.

Fingers crossed it all comes through just right!

I think it’s the only known one with wood wheels and double rare spares. It brought crazy money at Monterey a few years ago.

On 4/19, Seller deleted the Facebook ad.

Thanks, Cutlasguy, for taking the time to take the pictures and post them. Much appreciated.

On 4/19, Seller marked the Facebook ad "SOLD!"

Absolutely beautiful. Thanks for posting. And, yes, I can find room in my garage for one, even if I have to kick the two current cars, the lawnmower, and the weedeater out.