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  2. The mirrors came in today. They are very close to fitting over the hinge but just a bit too small to do it. There isn't much material I can grind off the mirrors, I might have to take a hair off the hinges. I will have to see when I have time to work at them properly. The pins they came with are also too narrow and the set screws are too close to the center, but this can be resolved. Cost too much to send them back and try again, they will work ok.
  3. Is this the formula? (14.7 x .8 x 4.51.3 ) - 14.7 I can't do 4.51.3 in my head
  4. If you have not done this before you may have to clean off the outside rim of the dampener, wire brush the engraved marks and highlight them with chalk or white paint.
  5. That is the point. The multigrade should allow easier starting and circulate better when cold, but hold a higher pressure when hot.
  6. Most 12 volt timing lights work just fine on six volts. I have never had a problem with one yet.
  7. Hmmmmmmmmmmm, Location does complicate things. Let me check the directory. Harry Nicks in Redlands, CA used this donor to aid in a V63 roadster project. They would have had no use for anything aft of the cowl. But I think the distance would be a deal killer. Hmmmmmmm....................... Perhaps your friend has the makings of a speedster project. - Carl
  8. Hi Pete, Thank you for your post and information. While the car currently runs with the Remy 626K, I do have a passing interest in ultimately returning the car to its more original setup. If you have a 626A or K97 I would be interested in obtaining some pictures from you and also knowing what your asking price would be. My Email address is gpruden@telus.net Regards Glen
  9. What is happening now has little to do with what will be happening way down South. Up to 100 F or more, with the Sun directly overhead, pavement temperature you have never seen constantly re-radiating into every mechanical component in line-of-sight : fun stuff !!! Get a MASSIVE oil cooler, perhaps aviation surplus, and run 20W/50 full synthetic. At least 140 in the rear end, frequent lube with synthetic grease. And slow down going into headwinds in the heat. You will enjoy some locations with elevations above approximately 4000' or so. Remarkable relief from the heat. - Carl
  10. Not sure if this one counts. It was the car I used to pull 40 cars out with a log chain.. It is 33 years old.. But run great..
  11. Today
  12. Before putting on an oil cooler, perhaps put a temperature gauge in the oil and find out what is actually happening.
  13. Matt Harwood is the expert on this, but I'll offer my non-expert opinion: In my experience, the color of a car does have a significant effect on market value -- and the current market favors original or at least period-popular colors for prewar cars. It seems to me that folks buying 80+ year old cars mostly are the type that favors originality. To that crowd, a strange or garish color scheme is like putting a Chevy small-block in a Packard. I wasn't in the hobby then, but I suspect it was a little bit different 40 or 50 years ago, when prewar cars were only 30 or 40 years old and restoration standards weren't what they are now: An old car may have just been a fun curiosity, so a crazy color was putting your own stamp of individuality on things. But these days it seems like originality reigns. Given the hassle and cost of painting a car over, market values suffer from oddball choices.
  14. Always factor in that in general these slow turning low power old engines run cooler oil temperature than modern engines. - Carl
  15. Easter Monday here was fairly glorious for a change so I tackled a problem with a rear window in my '27 Model T Tudor. Last September I drove it to a tractor show on an uncommonly hot and humid day so I rolled down a rear window to get some air flow. When I got home no amount of pushing or pulling would budge it. Long story short is I got to the bottom of it Monday and found the trouble. The lower window lifter channel was "blown out" from rust which wedged it into the lifter mechanism. At any rate the weather was very sociable today so I finished the job and took it out for its first outing since early November....... 🤩 You can believe me or not but, as always, it started as if it had run yesterday.
  16. Well here we are... it was a great long weekend! Fun was had and miles were driven! The trip took us from Surrey BC to Banff Alberta and back with a stop in Kamloops for the VCCC's 49th annual Easter Parade. That means a fully loaded car (my wife has a tendency to over-pack) from sea level up to 5250ft and back through the Coquihalla pass AND the historic Rogers pass TWICE. Crawling from light to light in a car parade for miles on end through downtown Kamloops with NO heat problems. Cooling SORTED!!! The trip up was in the rain as expected... 12 hours straight rain... non stop.. not even joking... at least the wipers worked beautifully! After that the sun came out and all those bad feeling disappeared The last stretch saw us battling a very, very strong headwind the entire way from Kamloops home. All in all a resounding success, people were always interested and eager to talk about the car and downright amazed that at 71 she could make that kind of trek! Fuel consumption was abysmal, oil usage was excessive and overall it felt like the car lacked power even though my compression test was considered spec. The slight intermittent stutter at high rpms disappeared after the first 100kms and never returned, possibly some carbon? causing detonation? spur on the points? who knows... Cruising comfortably at around 85km/h, there was also the last 110km from Salmon Arm to Kamloops done at 105 to 110km/h and Hope to Surrey done at 70 to 75km/hr, the car runs happy either way. Top speed was 115km/h, I wanted to see what she would do but my wife started voicing her immense displeasure at my behavior when we hit 115 and I never got to see how fast she would go...maybe next time, without the wife I did find oil pressure was lower after running at 100km/h for a while, possibly getting too hot and too thin? Change the oil? Add in an oil cooler? that should help? Power wise, if you could get it up to 90km/h+ before the hill and you got the rpms up high you would keep your speed and sail up the hills, hit the same hill at anything under 80km/h and you slowed to a relative crawl... I'm talking fully loaded semi truck up the hill type of crawl. As soon as the rpms dropped there was not enough power to wind it up again, downshifting worked... but only till the rpms got so high that you were forced to shift into high again and then the drop in rpm was too much and you stopped speeding up again. More than likely a timing problem. The airbags made the ride super comfy, steering feedback and road holding was very good, no wandering, bouncing or floating all over the place, very solid with a good solid feel. The pick-up truck tires were not as smooth or as a nice set of cruising radials and felt a bit utilitarian, or dare I say "truck like" (No REALLY??) but that was expected and I am willing to put up with it for the durability and strength of the 10ply. The brakes were exemplary and performed better than expected.. coming down the Rogers pass with a 4200lb vehicle is no joke but it worked as well as any modern car! Having said all of this I feel that it was a success all around and I have a very strong feeling that all my fuel and power problems are a direct result of my inexperience at tuning these old cars. Proper dwell angle, total timing and a different kind of oil might improve all of these issues a LOT! More tests and experiments to follow! My wife and kids are totally hooked now and they are already planning the next "test run" to sort things out before we leave on our big adventure! Distance travelled tracked with 2 separate GPS devices. Fuel stops listed below. Odometer Full tank 02151 miles, 0km Trip start 21 litres 02235 miles, 125km 125km 35 litres 02368 miles, 201km 326km 40 litres 02510 miles, 215km 541km 26 litres 02607 miles, 147km 688km 50 litres 02761 miles, 225km 913km 32 litres 02890 miles, 198km 1111km 27 litres. 02990 miles, 147km 1258km 46 litres 03156 miles, 248km 1506km 29 litres 03238 miles, 106km 1612km 30 litres 03355 miles, 175km 1787km 11 liters 03401 miles, 66km 1853km Total. 347 Total liters used. 91.68 Gal US 76.33 Gal UK imperial Avg. Consumption 5.34Lt/km 12.50 miles/gallon US 15.08 miles/gallon imperial Oil used 6Lt... 1853km or 1153 actual miles / 1250 indicated miles on the odometer. Incidentally as you can see the odometer OVER reads but the speedometer UNDER reads by about 10 miles/hour. When driving at 55mph indicated on the GPS tracker the speedo only shows 45, but the odometer still adds up to more than you did. It all makes sense when you factor in that the new tires are smaller in OD than the old bias ply tires I had on there. I'm sure this old girl can do better on the fuel numbers, more work needs to be done. As for the 6Lt of oil used, I think switching to a straight SAE30 or maybe a 20W40 or a 20W50 would improve that a lot. The oil was used without any visible smoke coming out of the tailpipe while driving and no it did NOT leak out... no oil leaks detected on this car, even the garage floor is dry! The pictures are still downloading I will post more soon...
  17. You will probably need a 12v power source to operate your timing light, assuming your Windsor is 6v.
  18. I think that the original tires had about a 1-1/4" white side wall on the the tire. They look a little wide for current standards, but Coker's 1.3" tire is pretty close. Before you buy tires from Coker, make sure you know when they were built. You don't want to be buying a tire that will be "old" (7 years is old in the world of tires no matter what the tread measures.) in a couple of years.
  19. Thank for the ID, That DeSoto grille is one of the nicest ever to grace an automobile. Bob
  20. Any clockmaker. Not much different to clock hands. In fact, pretty basic compared to some clock hands. These are "off the shelf", but a clockmaker can make some identical to yours, except not broken! http://www.m-p.co.uk/muk/parts/chap06/american-calendar-hands-2-12inch-unbushed-0521025015.htm
  21. Gauge reading should be about 68 p.s.i. assuming about 80% volumetric efficiency in your engine and 4.5:1 compression ratio. Higher values may mean the head has been planed. The formula is here:
  22. 1933 DeSoto. That is a RARE car, and I don't use that term lightly.
  23. Were it mine, I would high pressure wash it, (at the car wash) and submerge it in EVAP-O- RUST. IT WILL NOT HARM SOFT METAL. And it is also biodegradable Worked wonders on my '40 Buick cooling system.. Mike in Colorado
  24. Which is why, as per Frank, the last thing you want failing on your Model T is the rear end: even excessively worn pinions and bearings can disengage and leave you brakeless except for the handbrake which won't help you much if you have any speed or grade.. Favorite accessory for the Model T was, and still, is the Rocky Mountain brake which is a set of externally contracting brakes. They are a definite must with any Ruxstell ( 2speed) rear end or Wardford (overdrive) aux transmission since missing a shift leaves you in the same position as the first point and your brakes become 1) a favourable change in grade , 2)your foot until the shoe wears out, or 3) whatever you end up running into. Brad
  25. "only one front seat originally?" No. The passenger side front seat was a small seat, sort of like a jump seat, that folded to make access to the rear seat easier.
  26. Um, more information please. It is my understanding a 15W-40 would have a higher viscosity when hot (SAE 40 compared to SAE 30). The 15W would mean it behaves as a lower viscosity when cold (SAE 15 vs SAE 30)..
  27. My thoughts are to trust your gut. If you read something and you don’t feel right inside about it then stay away from it. I have had people use my posts on other forums and post them here in an effort to gain credibility. He is making it a point to target certain people with direct messages to them based on how I’m reading these responses. It doesn’t necessarily mean he is scamming anyone. At the same time it doesn’t mean he isn’t scamming anyone. People get more creative all the time and come up with ways to gain credibility prior to enacting their scams. Regardless of whether or not this is a scam if you don’t feel comfortable about something you have no obligation to do anything. Shop manuals are cheap enough to purchase.
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