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  2. I`m thinking 4-400 is the spring, there is 3 of them they fit in grooves of shaft 4-403 and the inside of sleeve 4-414. This part may be common to `34-`38 40 series transmissions, possibly other years. If Bobs has them, I can`t find them in the catalog..
  3. This oil feed line should be rather easy to reproduce from commonly available tubing available at any good industrial auto/truck parts supplier. Making the several loops in the line is easy enough to reproduce by using a pipe the same diameter as the inside diameter of the loops and wrapping the line around the pipe a couple of times. It may be that you can find it here though or from 'marty mopar'
  4. Yes, I understand, this kind of "care", or lack there of, is more than common. A lot of of people don't seem care or have much respect for any old and/or used stuff, even if it's their own, be it automotive or anything else, but I've always had a tendency to approach or view at things little differently.
  5. Sorry about any confusion, there was no question it was a Dodge Brothers car in my mind so I didn’t add that in. Kaiser had missed by a year is all.
  6. There used to be one just like that in Quincy, MA (that's "Quinzee" in New England speak) years ago...Eddy's Diner. They tore it down to put in a stupid bank! Miss those kind of places.
  7. I have titles and gauges......... may have transmission- not sure
  8. The wide flat seal with the circular part is the lower door seal This fits on to the wire clips that hold the upholstery panel to the door You will need to mark the positions on the rubber (flat part) and then use a small hollow puch to make the holes. Make sure that the circular part of the rubber is in alignment with the lower edge of the upholstery panel. Trim the ends to match the door contours. There was a cup and machine screw in each end of the upholstery panel that also goes through the rubber section to hold it firm. Hope this helps.
  9. Take a close look at the tabs on the end of the fender. Often they have a part number stamped very lightly. When you have a part number , it will be easier for members of different car clubs to see if that part number fits one of their makes. I have several Studebaker fenders like that but most but not all had their part numbers stamped on the ends.
  10. Rain??? At Hershey??? Surely you jest! Part of the video shot later that weekend was a guy with a sense of humor pushing on the back of his buddies motorhome to get it out of the mud. But in front of the motorhome was a tractor pulling it! Bet he would not like to see the complete video. I had forgotten that video. Dad passed about 7 years ago, and we finally have sold off enough of his "stuff" to have the last estate sale this coming week-end. Shoot me an email, and if I ever find that video (Dad shot thousands of them) will forward it to you. Actually, the rain at Hershey HELPED our business. As you probably remember, we always rented a tent. During rain-storms, customers would take refuge inside our tent, and spent more time shopping! And I am not looking for any carbs (with 150,000 I should buy more???), rather posted those numbers as a hint that all that glitters is not gold (as in common carburetors). The numbers I posted are high performance Pontiac and Ford, and you have a better probability of winning an argument with the IRS than having one. But if you did, they are worth MONEY! Thank you for bringing back some memories that now are great, maybe less so when we were making them. Jon
  11. I totally agree !! The lack of consideration is mind boggling ..... The last show I went to a few years ago, people would walk up to my car, look at the interior and turn around to start a conversation with their friend and the next moment, they are leaning on my car... can't tell you how many times this has happen to me - right in front of me ! I actually had people reach inside the engine compartment and start touching parts of the engine...... yeah, I never leave the vehicle now. Steve
  12. If the evapo rust doesn't do the trick I will pull the new water pump the previous owner installed and see the condition of it. Heck, he might of pulled it and never put back? Either way the evapo rust should make that job easier I would hope. Is there anyone repo'ing the tube? Doesn't look like to hard of a job to yank it unless it is rusted in.
  13. I worked at several shops over the years, always liked to see the customer stop by every month or so. Perfect match was a guy that really loved his car, and who could keep up with the monthly bill. Nothing worse than rolling along and being told to stop, put the car in storage, and pick up a few months later. Picking a shop that knows Packards is a plus, you don't want to be financing some ones education. Bob
  14. Thanks for that Tom Just having issues with the ignition system, hence the cap, points, rotor arm. Also a Petrol cap 2. 2 " internal dia. would be great. Still need to find out more about the Essex. There were a couple of articles on the Essex doing the Peking / Paris rally in 2007. Two months round about July / Aug and possibly June July in the White Triangle 2008. The Essex was number 12 and completed the rally. There is a brief You tube Vid. for a few seconds as the vehicle left China. I also have 1919 Briscoe 4 - 24, 1930 Rolls Royce, 1935 Bentley a couple of 90's vehicles . Always happy to help locate any Brit spares if you require. Regards - Ron
  15. Hi I am looking for a pair of coat hooks for the interior of a 67 IHC 908 pick up. I think they would fit most 60's model IHC trucks. Let me know if there are any out there, I would appreciate it. email: Thank you for your time, John
  16. You make a good point, TTR. But the image of an entire truckload of old carburetors struck me as interesting and almost humorous, and I really wanted to share that with my fellow forum members. The fact is that these carb cores are already in whatever condition they were when found in the yard. I'll post several photos of each one on eBay, and point out any challenges like frozen shafts, cracked housings, or dented edges, etc. Over many years of digging out parts like these, I have found quite a few really nice units...and some junkers. But generally speaking even the junkers are worth something to someone as parts sources. I won't represent any of them as pristine units which have been carefully stored, and I wouldn't want to give anyone that kind of impression of them. But thanks for your observation, which I understand fully.
  17. Looked at Bobsautomobilia? They may have some Or Phone them Or Fusick Olds Not the best scans. If you identify the part number I can look up the parts book to check if used on other years/models Edit Is it group 4.397 part 1287260 ? From 1928-1941 master parts book & 1928-1952 Master parts books used on 1934-35 S40 S50, 1936-37-38-39 S40, 1940-41-42 S40 S50. 1946-47-48-49-50-51-52 S40 S50 [1.165" ID x 1.415"OD x 0.073" Also included in set 1393488- Group 4.005] And from 1948 Old master parts book Group 4.397 part 1287260 1933 thru 1948 all Cost $0.06 {a common part}
  18. I have a similar Delco coil for a Studebaker for sale.
  19. Jon, You have always been a great source of info to me about carburetors, and I have been grateful. Plus I have great memories of being set up as a vendor right across from you at Hershey (you were beside Kanter Auto Products). Your dad shot a video of me in a huge rainstorm, making mud dams on my knees to try and divert the flowing water around my vendor booth, instead of right through it. (Remember that? Must have been in late 70's, or early 80's.) I'll be happy to search for any carbs you may need.
  20. I received the parts from a truck & heavy equipment parts room cleanout. They were scooped up with a bucket loader and dumped in a dump truck, them dumped in my driveway. Had no problem in selling any of it. Bob
  21. Best advice we can give you is this; if you find a shop that will give you a firm price on any work other than the most basic you are well advised to turn and run. There are only two conditions where a shop will give a guaranteed price on work on a 90+ year old car. Either they are so inexperienced that they have no idea of the vagaries of restoration work or they are quoting a price so high they could not possibly lose money. Second best advice; pick a shop you trust 100%. You will be trusting them with your car and your money and unless you pick a shop literally in your back yard you will not be able to check up on them every day. Third best advice; be wary of any shop asking for a large deposit up front. Best of luck in your search.
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