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  2. I deicide to phone one of our Parts Vendors namely Earle O Brown to get his opinion on this subject. Earle said the pump can just be bolted on and the pan needs to be adjusted for the pump screen, Abe had also suggested this and another member Beltfed had posted on how he had made this adjustment to the pan. Thanks Guys
  3. Someone must have swapped over to Buffalo Wire Wheels back in the day. Condition looks excellent.
  4. Funny, all the guys I know who have sold cars through their company (four of them) were upset about every detail the way it was run. Car on the block for a few seconds, auctioneer not working the crowd, ect.
  5. I rebuilt the Stewart Warner Vacuum Fuel System tank, checked both valves at top, made sure the vent is not obstructed. its just not drawing fuel from the gas tank as it should, got car started after it sitting in prev ownwr’a gargae since 2004. car actually started first time it turned over, with shot of starting fluid. However, once prime from vacuum tank drops down and float “clicks” which I checked to make Sure float in vacuum tank moves as it should, it won’t start pulling gas from the gas tank! any ideas? btw, for those that haven’t seen my prev posts, I built new gas tank, made new fuel pick up line, thoroughly cleaned pick up “filter”on end of pick up and top of pick up that screws into gas tank. any ideas on what the issue is? How can I check vacuum engine is producing? Not sure what vacuum knob on dash does but would that have anything to do w my issue?
  6. the angle that the head light bolt connects are different the tab can be moved and the lights used for PA or PB
  7. I finished up the special intake bolts today. The next step was to turn the diameter that will be threaded. I then single pointed them about 85% of the way. And then screwed them into a die. This gives you nice uniform threads that are really straight. It's practically impossible to start a die on the end of a piece like this and really have it run straight. (Or at least it is for me) but cutting away most of the material first, in the lathe, ensures that the die will run straight. Then I shortened the heads - the extra material was there to provide a better grip in the hex collet. I then set up the radius tool and put a slight crown on them. All done.
  8. Law of supply and demand. You could have a cowl to a one of only one left vehicle. If no one is looking for it, it's not valuable.
  9. Picked up a pair of these. Yes they are going to be for sale. Just the buckets and one trim ring. Marked 1932 Plymouth. Did the PA come with painted steel buckets? What little I could find online suggests these are 32 plymouth. Notice the slot where bolt comes thru. Has a piece of metal that "locks" in bolt so you can't tip light up too far.
  10. Posting for a friend. He has a 1926 Big Six but his honeycomb radiator core is leaking. He needs to either repair it or find a new curved core for his. What have other people done to fix theirs? Is anyone repairing or supplying new curved honeycomb cores?
  11. thank you all----------------since I do have a spare axel and break drum I will use that method
  12. I recall now that '39 was a year when Hayes bodied coupes were available from Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge. Mercury also offered a Hayes coupe body for '39 and '40. They were distinctive with their narrow "B" pillars, but their bulbous roof lines and low, short decks left me cold. I actually think now that the whole '39 Chrysler body line may have been made by Hayes. The exception to that was the Plymouth bodies which were holdovers from '38 with the addition of a new two piece windshield and cowl. 1939 Chrysler Windsor Coupe:
  13. Hello, It is an Automatic, with a 3L V6 - convertable hard top.
  14. Finally got the Motor back together and it ran about 2 minutes and the Oil Pump Shaft Seized up. The washer under the pump shaft got on top of the pin that holds it in place. This happened when I replaced the low distributor with the high distributor housing. Thanks to a member of the Franklin Club I got a replacement shaft and it fixed the problem. I was fortunate that the only damage was the oil pump gear. The cam gear destroyed the oil pump gear and not the gear on the cam that drives it..
  15. Very old post, but a good question. I'll list the differences I can recall. The Style 1 was an 1899, the Style 2 came out in 1900 Differences: Stlye 1 center tiller steering Style 2 Side tiller steering Style 1 Mason model 70 engine Style 2 Locomobile designed their own engine with many upgrades Style 1 13" boiler Style 2 14" boiler Style 1 150 psi max pressure Style 2 250 psi max steam pressure, respectively, 3-1/2 horsepower and 6 horsepower Style 1 flat horseshoe bracing around the differential Style 2 round bar horseshoe bracing around differential Style 1 Single acting brake which only operated going forward Style 2 double acting brake which also operated in reverse. Style 1 25 1/2" body base width Style 2 28-1/2" body base width Style 1 51" wheeltread or stance Style 2 54" wheeltread. Style 1 Bolts through the lower rear springs Style 2 replaced these with U-bolts Style 1 Had no bracing in the lower rear axle tubes Style 2 angular cast in bracing was added Wheelbase was the same on both at 58". Same gear ratios, same springs, same wheels and tires. That is all the changes I can think of offhand. -Ron
  16. As far back as 1923 this emblem appears in photos. Earlier photos show a plainer emblem.
  17. All, Finished mounting the new Houk wire wheels and spare on to the car this week. Had to redo two spare front hubs because of a problem with bearing races in the remachined ones. Getting races to match hundred year old bearings can be a challenge. I solved it by using old races from old hubs which were in excellent shape. Note that on Kissel Kars of this time frame, the front tires are to be smooth while the tears are to be “non-skids”. I know it oops goofy, but it is exactly as it’s supposed to be. Also have mounted all the seats and done what pedal adjusting is possible without driving. Mounting horn was also accomplished - Spartan Model J is the correct horn for this car. Monday, April 22, 2019, we will fire her up and test drive I for awhile. I hope like hell that all my wiring is correct! Ron Hausmann P.E.
  18. Hello, I am looking for running boards and possibly doors (the bottom 3" on mine are gone). The car is an 8cyl and I'm trying to put it back together. Any help or leads would be appreciated! thanks Tony 814.330.4986
  19. Hollanders info: // Starter S462 and S533 use same drive gear. #46217 Stude 1924 for cars , EM, Lt 6, if W 25-26 Std 6. //////
  20. 1942 - 48 Ford Battery Hold Down. $ 25 For more information or photo's give me a call. 406-543-2591
  21. Last visited Feb 20. Best quote something so an email is sent.
  22. Today
  23. Any Marmon folks out there who might have some original Marmon lit from the brass era? Need to try and figure out what kind of sidelamps were used. There is a brass sidelamp restoration question on the general forum and it was suggested they used Indiana brand lamps, since it was a nearby company. I personally have never seen Indiana branded lamps used on Marmons, but will leave that up the the Marmon experts. Thanks Terry
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