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  2. You've got an outie, as opposed to my innie! I also see there's an I.D. tag there. I wonder if they are normally on the drain plug - seems easier to be discarded that way. On Fords they are on the differential bolts. I'll have to check on my '65 Riviera and see what that has on it.
  3. The blue one that comes up in the link looks like it will probably end up a parts car to me. Look what Brooklyn bear just bought for around 9G. It would cost you more than that to plate the chrome on that car and it all needs plating. Craigslist has lots of cars like that if you really look. Any 50's 4 door sedan that needs everything especially in the Mopar realm of this era can usually be bought in much better shape with some looking for around 5 to 6 G. Sad to say, but no sense in sugar coating it.
  4. Jeff, I've been keeping up with your posts, just unable to grab a minute to reply until now. Thanks for your input, especially on the early years of Peerless. I concur with almost everything you've uncovered here. What unstructured time I've had is spent in trying to chase down early Peerless literature. The AACA library has a some "clippings" of early Peerless (1900-1903) but loose material is unverified, I can't use it. Lots of people mismark an old photo and it becomwes history. It's not on purpose but it muddies the water. The Cleveland Historical Library files had early teens cars marked and filed as 1902 models, shessh! Would you consider reading a chapter or two of my work in progress? I'm trundling toward the finish but still learning more details. Maybe I'm way off base and I would appreciate a set of experienced eyes on it, if you are willing. Contact me at alexcauthen at that dot com place with yahoo in front if you are feeling generous enough to try it out. I did order a copy of 2001 Jan-Feb Antique Automobile with the article "From Clothes Wringers & Bicycles to Horseless Carriages." It never arrived and I spent precious free time getting my money returned when the seller insisted they sent it. Too bad. My online order for Golden Wheels didn't arrive either but they didn't change me for it. I need to get back on task for those too.
  5. The 44-46-47-4800 for 1961-63 , and 47-4800 for 1964 also include the Riviera - model 4700 in 1963 and 4747 for 1964. Basically for the nailhead for a bunch of years.
  6. Looking at what the old water pump had in it and the thermostat rusted shut I am betting the tube is equally as bad. But going to let the evap do it's job until it gets too cold then will drain and yank the water pump.
  7. Do you have any other other sales brochures you are going to be offering up for sale. I buy all types and quantities, 1970 and older.
  8. Nothing wrong with that. I researched and even found some examples and other than the jag rear conversion, none were satisfactory. On those the ride could be described as brutal: unexpected bumps, jolts and kicks...more truck-like than sedan. And those had noise and vibration problems too. One owner was always grinning while driving and after he gave me a ride it was probably more of a grimace. The jag conversion rode and handled well, but the experience was marred by the turbo 350 with a "shift kit". There probably is no easy way to convert the dynaflow to open drive. And even if you did the rear gears selected would work best at the original 3.4:1 ratio. 3.6, 3.9 would be more fun, but 3.2 would be a slug (like driving uphill). The converter stall, tires, engine hp/torque have been matched pretty good at the factory. Nobody can help with your noise and vibration without being there. Even then some or a lot of 'disassembly required' would follow. The original rear setup is different technology, but can be serviced and repaired. New and used parts are available and guidance is right here. If you decide to dive into the existing setup, post here or you can even PM to me for phone conversation. But always start with a service manual.
  9. Hi every one. For sale for $8,00 is a Chrysler sales brochure form the 1933 Chicago Worlds Fair . Just $8.00, free shipping. email me at rzuodar@comcast.net if you are interested.
  10. Since this subject got brought up...the sway bar worked out great with no modifications 👍🏼 Here are some pics
  11. In some other thread Rusty O' Toole suggested looking around for hotspots on the block (water jacket) with a thermal temperature gun, indicating uneven cooling due to a rusted out distribution tube.
  12. They are rare...I think 6 to 10 are known to survive. This car is a really exceptional example and a nice restoration. I'm assisting the current owner get it to a new, loving home.
  13. I've seen people open or try to open car doors to get a better look inside. Had our Pierce out at a show, Model A Ford next to us, a couple of guys walk up to the Ford, sit down on the running board and proceed to eat the food they were carrying. I figured they belonged to the car since I had not seen the owner because the A was there before we parked. The actual owner comes back and shoos them away from his running boards, obviously very annoyed. I apologized for not being a good neighbor and telling the picnickers to eat elsewhere but I didn't know they were not the owners. Ford guy said he understood and we traded horror stories for a good 20 minutes before looky loos demanded we tend to them.
  14. Few more pictures of the Time Sert tools and process. Once I’m satisfied with the inserts I need installed, I’ll just be waiting on the Machine shop and the head.
  15. Does anyone know of any junkyards that allow kids under 16 to go into? Especially in Colorado. I'm a 15 year old living in Littleton which is just outside of Denver and I just really want to go barn find hunting like Tom Cotter. (I like his show by the way, check out "Barn Find Hunter" if your interested). The only junkyard that I've gotten to go into was Tom Tom's Volkswagen Museum in Moab, Utah. It's more of a junkyard then a museum so I don't know why they decided to call it that. Also I like Volkswagens so that's probably why they let me in there in the first place. I'm more into pre-war American cars now though. Anyways if you know any junkyards that allow under 16 people in then please tell me.
  16. I hadn’t mentioned much about a problem I was having with the Olds but some know I had been getting blow by into the cooling system, causing the car to boil over and heat up if I drove it faster than 25mph. It was OK to get into the show grounds but once home from the show, it reared it’s head again. I did add a head gasket sealer called Steel Seal and it slowed it down enough to get the car in and out of the show grounds. Turns out I had two head bolts that were stripped out, probably because of 87 yr old metal fatigue that couldn’t hold up to fresh pistons and 80-85# compression plus the thermal expansion. So I pulled the head and took it down to the machine shop for magna flux testing and to true it’s surface again. My own testing before I removed the head showed #6 was the culprit and the head bolt closest to the combustion chamber was one of the stripped ones. We believe when the engine heated up, the compression was pushed out and right down the threads of that stripped bolt into the water jacket. What makes sealing the head difficult on the Olds flat head engine is that every single head bolt, 26 of them on the 6cyl,, goes directly into the water jacket. Possibly one or two are blind but most are bored right through and the bottom of the head bolts are exposed and in the coolant. Knowing that I needed to repair at least two holes in the block, under the advice of my engine shop, I purchased the Time Sert threaded inserts and installation kit for 7/16-14. My engine shop let me borrow his magnet based drill which is a great tool for this job as it holds itself in place and drills 90degrees which is essential to putting in the inserts. With the top of the block all cleaned off, I used a long piece of the self adhesive Oracal stencil film that I used to mask the sprocket pattern on the wheels. This film worked perfectly for the job as it seal both the pistons and valves from any metal particles from the drilling, counter boring, and tapping processes. I would simply vacuum off the surrounding film after each step of the process. The first hole needing repair was between 2-3 pistons and offered the most room for mistakes so I started there. A 29/64” hole is drilled first then the counter bore is run in either by hand or with a battery drill on slow to the stop shoulder. Then an oversized tap for the outside size of the insert is tapped into the hole. Using a V block and longer handles help keep a straight eye on the tap. The insert is then screwed onto the installation tool and screwed into the tapped hole. How the insert is set is the tool doesn’t screw all the way to the bottom of the insert initially as the last few threads in the insert are not fully tapped. The tool first binds enough to screw the insert into the thread till the flange hits the bottom of the counter bore, then the tool continues through the insert and stages the lower part of the insert into the hole, holding it fast. What I quickly found out is the inserts don’t like to seat all the way into the counter bore before the insert tool starts turning in the insert, swaging the insert prematurely. A quick fix to the problem was to simply thread a 7/16-14 nut onto the installation tool first and tighten down to the top of the insert once the insert is installed on the tool before the swaging point of the threads. I then screwed the insert into the tapped hole and when it got tight, using a wrench, I turned the nut along with the installation tool until it stopped fast. This process seats the flange perfect flush with theblocks surface and all that is required to remove the tool is to back off the nut, then unscrew the installation tool. I am very impressed with the Time Serts and they work perfectly with my little “fix”. The main problem hole by #6 was done second and took no time to install. When drilling the cast onehas to be careful as the drill likes to pull itself in and it seems to catch some. I set the drill up using a longer 29/64” drill from my kit as I couldn’t get enough depth due to the magnet base height. I installed a stop on the drill so I would only drill far enough for what was needed. Here are a few pictures of doing the first hole. Got way better on the second and might do one to three more once I look at them again.
  17. Think it was 20 years ago when eBay really started moving things I dug up parts I had buried in a low spot in the side yard. Accurately described most things will sell if priced right. Bob
  18. I cannot see 4-400 in image or listed in the parts books (typo?) Shaft 4.403 1287295 was used on 1934-35-36 S40 Sleeve 4.414 1295996 used on 1934-35 S50 and 1934-35-36-37 S40
  19. Today 10-22-2019 in the $2.5 Billion+ PONZI scheme two conspirators pleaded guilty in the Sacramento Federal Court. Looks like Jeff Carpoff will soon be wearing an orange jump suit. The Sacramento Bee has article that came out few minutes ago about the PONZI scheme and the cars being sold. Some of these cars are WOW factor. The collection is magnificent. The Feds expect to receive over $3 million from the sale.
  20. I`m thinking 4-400 is the spring, there is 3 of them they fit in grooves of shaft 4-403 and the inside of sleeve 4-414. This part may be common to `34-`38 40 series transmissions, possibly other years. If Bobs has them, I can`t find them in the catalog..
  21. Today
  22. This oil feed line should be rather easy to reproduce from commonly available tubing available at any good industrial auto/truck parts supplier. Making the several loops in the line is easy enough to reproduce by using a pipe the same diameter as the inside diameter of the loops and wrapping the line around the pipe a couple of times. It may be that you can find it here though or from 'marty mopar'
  23. Yes, I understand, this kind of "care", or lack there of, is more than common. A lot of of people don't seem care or have much respect for any old and/or used stuff, even if it's their own, be it automotive or anything else, but I've always had a tendency to approach or view at things little differently.
  24. Sorry about any confusion, there was no question it was a Dodge Brothers car in my mind so I didn’t add that in. Kaiser had missed by a year is all.
  25. There used to be one just like that in Quincy, MA (that's "Quinzee" in New England speak) years ago...Eddy's Diner. They tore it down to put in a stupid bank! Miss those kind of places.
  26. I have titles and gauges......... may have transmission- not sure rdz69@aol.com
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