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  2. I have bought four or five from C&E over the years, and sold my still useable pot metal units to others, thus my upgrade was less expensive than one would expect. They make very nice stuff...........great people to deal with.
  3. Joe, Classic & Exotic had replacement parts for all the pot metal in my 1927 Cad distributor. Did a superb job rebuilding it. See what they have for your '30. - Carl
  4. They did mine, and also forged custom pistons, coated rods and mains as well...expensive but worth it...at least I saved on shipping since they are just down the road, but I had to pay CA tax... Photo below is what we ended up spec’ing out at.
  5. I see people advertising cars as Junior and Senior winners. How do they get classified as each?
  6. Anyone who paints his car a weird/outrageous color inevitably trots out the excuse that the factory would paint the car any color the buyer wanted if he was willing to pay for it. I'm sick of hearing it. It didn't happen nearly as often as the number of oddly-colored cars would suggest today. Not even close. Somehow, I don't think there were many orange/pink/purple/white Packards running around in the 1930s. Yes, it COULD have been painted that color, but I bet it wasn't. Studios and coachbuilders and even the lowliest automakers all had designers on staff who would ensure that the style and color were harmonious, and yes, while you could have thrown enough money at them to make them ignore their better judgement, I doubt many buyers forced them to do so. Painting your car some oddball color combination today can be rationalized in various ways, but that still doesn't make it right. I suspect that many are done that way to make the cars stand out, to make the owners seem unique and to give the some extra visibility in the hobby. "Oh, the purple car? John Smith owns that one." Perhaps some are done because the guy just likes that particular color combination, and an equal number are probably done just because the guy picking paints doesn't know any better and is just making it up as he goes along. None of it that makes it right and you should rightfully expect people to be polarized by the choice, regardless of whether the factory "could" have done it that way. I'm not sure which is the bigger sin: arrogance or ignorance. Resale value is where your choices will hurt the most. Weird colors will probably demand a discount--in many cases, a discount greater than the cost of a repaint. It still doesn't seem to discourage anyone. People will still spend tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars making ugly cars. Not much to be done about that.
  7. Did anyone get any contact info? Is pretty tempting!
  8. *If you have not been "keeping up" that "frantic day" will be spent putting the gearbox back into the car! In a borrowed space a very long way from home.
  9. Thank you for your response. I already have several which do not match.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Steam gauges have a loop like that called a "siphon". It's purpose is to hold water and insulate the gauge from the heat of the steam. Long story, but they generally aren't needed as the line to a steam gauge is dead ended and without flow, heat can only travel a short distance. I have a steam powered tugboat and there is a steam gauge up in the wheelhouse "by the book" I added the siphon and it was a waste of time and money, that line stays cold. -Ron
  12. As Mercer 09 pointed out, the premium cars of that era could usually be painted in any striking combination of colors that the buyer wanted. Some car manufacturers offered to paint their cars in the buyer's school colors; and the sister of one man I know had a new 1930 Buick roadster painted pink directly from the factory, to match her "shocking pink" scarf. Their father was on the board of General Motors at the time. There's something to be said for matching a car's original colors, whether they are to our modern taste or not. After all, we're preserving history, not recreating it in our own image. To my eye, the bright orange Pierce and the purple Mercedes look horrid, and I think they should be painted those colors only if that's what their original buyer chose. However, anyone offering those cars for sale today might be significantly limiting the number of potential buyers. I'd prefer to see fairly conservative colors, or a color combination that's clever but still in good taste.
  13. It's so easy to say, gee, those little tires won't stop a car. Unless you're on water and oil, yes, they will stop you, the tire patch is still gripping the road.... Going back in time, even with the bad roads and the reduced stopping power of early brake systems, they do work IF SET UP AS NEW, and PROPERLY. I once was thinking of buying a 1911 Buick, think it was a model 32 or 33, either way it was the only roadster left of that limited production. Two things. One, I drove the car. With two wheel rear brakes, it absolutely had the best stopping power of ANY early car I've ever driven. Downhill to a stoplight, no problem, stopped straight and true. Second, it had been owned by a master mechanic, who really restored and fixed things, didn't just put them together and say "gosh, that's the best it'll be..." or "gosh, that's good enough". When I asked about spare parts that went with the car, the answer was no spare parts, if something didn't work, it was fixed, period. A lot of modifications to early cars are just laziness, not wanting to spend the time that it takes to make things like new. Some people may be offended at that comment, but it's true......
  14. I received an email from a Buick owner named Thomas Lydell, who is not a member of this forum (not sure why) and he saw an old discussion about J-Bars for 1956 Buicks. Apparently he had them reproduced as faithfully as possible, and plans on selling them on eBay. He asked that I post a shot notice here. I'll attach the two photos he sent. I also asked that he provide more detail, how did he have them reproduced, pricing, etc, etc. Just thought I'd share the news about one of those "rare as hens teeth" 1956 Buick parts that apparently someone has decided to do something about it. The second photo almost makes me tear up a bit -- is THAT what they're supposed to look like, versus the swiss cheese I normally see ! Cheers, Budd
  15. The tires can't stop the car if the stopping force never reaches the tires!
  16. They didn't put the heat riser on for fun. You might also check that the heat passages in the manifold are not plugged with carbon. Is the choke working to factory spec? Does your car have the water heated carburetor? 180 thermostat should be fine, that is what they used back then. It does take a long time to warm up that massive lump of iron. But it should start and drive as readily as any modern fuel injection car if everything is working to factory specs. I have had this experience on other old Chrysler products, if you go to the trouble to make everything right they will start and run very well indeed.
  17. Thanks Bob, John, Ed, Craig, and others for the interesting post. My family had a Leland Lincoln, a Model L 7-Passenger Sedan from 1922-1976, and it remains the most luxurious car I have ridden in. Unfortunately, I don't know who the coachbuilder was. The Lincoln wound up in the late Ed Towe's Deer Lodge, Montana auto museum for about a decade. I appreciate the bringing up of Peerless as a rival to other luxury carmakers. Ed mentioned the early products and John some of the later ones. The dozens of magazine articles and books that mention Peerless focus so heavily on the Green Dragon race cars and the V-16 and V-12 prototypes that the ones built between 1904 and 1931 get short shrift. Peerless was a ripe plum for stock takeovers and one by General Vehicle Co. got them into building a lot of heavy trucks for war production(Packard and Pierce-Arrow produced WWI trucks, too). In 1921, Peerless was bought outright by the recent President of Cadillac, Richard Collins, and run for two years by him and a dozen top Cadillac staff. Another was an attempt by Detroit interests, Continental, about 1925, to bring the company more into their orbit. That move got a couple of Continental officers on the board of Peerless, and resulted in the partial use of Continental sixes and eights from 1926 to 1929. In 1930 and 1931, all the production Peerless models used Continental Straight 8s. The excellent Peerless V-8 debuted for the 1916 model year and ran through 1928. The excellent 289 cu. in. Superb Six engine arrived with the help of Cadillac/Peerless President Collins, and was used through 1929, the year Pierce-Arrow and Peerless first offered straight eight models. Deciding who was competing with or or rivaling whom is difficult in the rich world of American auto-making my grandparents lived in. So many companies! When my two Grandfathers got out of WWI, I think they had a choice of 60 car and truck builders to choose from with their saved wages if they desired a new car in 1918. In point of fact though, this is from the Peerless sales department to their dealers. It is an outline of the customers they were marketing the three main Peerless models to...not the same prices, but the potential buyers of these competing cars...were whom these Peerless models were intended for: Standard 8 Hupmobile 8 Studebaker 8 Marmon Mod. 69 Nash 8(Mod. 79) Master 8 Packard 726 La Salle Marmon 8 Studebaker 125 Graham Custom 8 Cadillac Marmon 8 Packard 745 Pierce-Arrow "B" Lincoln Unfortunately, Peerlesses that have survived to the present are quite rare, so you just will not see many post-WWI Peerless top shelf motorcars like Walter Miller's 1920 Mod. 56 Limousine, a 1924 Mod. 6-70 Limousine(none exist, TTBOMKnowledge), or Dan Johnson's 1929 Mod. 8-125 7-Pass. Sedan. The Brass Era Peerless cars aren't too common, either. Here is the Peerless introduced in 1930 that John Mereness pointed out as a model that really shined:
  18. Rust can be removed by electrolysis, all you need is a plastic bucket, battery charger, steel electrodes and washing soda. Details can be found with a web search. Suggest you take the box apart and carefully inspect the bearings and replace if necessary. Clean everything up and reassemble. It could be a wire brush is all you need to take off the rust.
  19. Babbit bearings can be adjusted by removing shims. They can also be scraped for better fit. It is not always necessary to replace them. What oil does the manufacturer recommend? 30 seems pretty thick and was only used in very hot conditions. Something like a 15W40 might work better for you. Is the oil pressure 5 pounds at idle or at speed? 5 pounds hot idle could be perfectly ok.
  20. it runs and drives now. but needs paint and finishing. just dont have the heart in it anymore since pop passed away. i love the old pontiacs.
  21. After saying all that it appears it was WELL taken care of. Hopefully the previous owner has done the proper service so you don't need to do any major servicing in the future. GOOD LUCK!!! Tom T.
  22. you rock brother!!!!! thanks so much!!!!!!!!! if any yall know anyone interested in a new project its for sale. Dad and I wanted to put the original 8 cyl engine in it. i took one out of a 48 r door torpedo. it ended up having destroyed crank broken rods and a hole n the block. we gave up and i did what i do best, small block chevy.
  23. Well, let me try again. Back in the '70s I restored a '64 Lincoln Continental. Pulled the distributor before sending the engine out for rebuild. When it came time to reinstall, I never could get it all the way in -- close, but not all the way, maybe 1/8th inch short. But when I started the car, the distributor popped right down into place. That has been the case a couple of other times over the years. Don't have an explanation, unless it was just the wear pattern on the gears preventing complete initial meshing. I've since put 100,000 miles on that car.
  24. well that what tinindian said, but what you have is a 1942 pontiac streamliner sedan coupe deluxe or 42-2607D.
  25. My dad and I were building it then he died. it has sat for 3 years. im trying to sell it now but people want to know exactly what it is due to the rareness of cars from 42. thats why I got to get this figured out Does body number 214 mean it was number 214 off the line? paint number is 2200 trim number ?53 may be 053? anyone know what those are? the rimes are brown but interior is light blue. have no clue to original body color
  26. Anyone have a source for a 1956 Buick Century 322 spin on oil filter adapter? The last post had a link to David Homstad [http://webpages.charter.net/dhomsted]. He seems to out of business. Thanks, Bruce
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