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  2. I have not made the distributor body, yet (it is the last of the white metal on my engine but so far no cracks). My distributor is a type 1-0836 and it is two pieces made up of a main body and a upper points plate. The points plate was starting to crack badly around the pin that the points pivot on. So I did make a new upper plate that uses a very common modern set of points.
  3. If you are interested in the oil condition, run it through a paint strainer when you drain it and see what you get. If the filter come up clear of any metal or gunk, you are good to go. Bob Engle
  4. Mick. In the USA the term for a gudgeon pin is a wrist pin. Regards your c/r. I would be reluctant to exceed 5 : 1 for fear of knocking. Ray.
  5. I will send you a contact my brother uses,or he May chime in.
  6. Today
  7. When I had my new tires mounted, the service man really wanted not to have weights on the outside of the wheel for aesthetics. But he also told me that the tire balance will be much better if the weights are applied to both the outer and inner rims, so I had the weights installed where they would function best, both on the outer and inner aspect of the wheel. When all done, and that blue stuff cleaned off the new tires, I simply painted the weights black, and visually they disappear. I really like your pin striping! Nice job! After painting the weights, installing the hubcap and beauty ring, the weights kinda disappear. Before and after. Here's the link to that day:
  8. Hi 46 woodie - I am right next to New Paltz - the next town over - I do not want to put a public access to my personal info - my email is tent.rentals@gmail.com please send me an email and I would like to have you - or a member of the woodie club to have a look next time you are in the area - thank you
  9. That is the first time I've seen this car since I painted it for it's then owner Greg Tocket. He later sold the car and it ended up in the Indianapolis Speedway Museum. I wondered where it ended up. I was a great car.
  10. 3.77:1 Static Compression Ratio seems low??? Your thoughts would be appreciated. The reason I need to know the compression ratio is that I am trying to find some pistons that I can use that are 0.25mm oversize, as one of the bores has 'score' marks in the bore from the gudgeon pin, (I think in the USA you call them piston pins). I would also like to increase the compression ratio some. I still need to have a look at the bottom end of the engine to ascertain if that is strong enough to take any higher compression. My thoughts are that I could possibly go up to 7:1 CR, may even 8:1? While I still had the valves and valve covers in the barrel of one of the Humberette cylinder barrels I decided to check the combustion chamber volume. I had estimated that the combustion chamber volume would have been around 120cc's with a guess at the engine having around 4.5:1 compression ratio. I set the barrel up in the vice and used a spirit level to get the barrel approximate level. . . . and rotated the level to check the bottom of the barrel was level both ways. In the past I have used paraffin for measuring cylinder head volumes, but as I didn't have any paraffin at hand, I used water. I was only trying to roughly check the volume at this stage and not trying to equalize combustion chamber volumes. I poured in 100cc's of water first from the measuring cylinder, then used a 10cc pipet to add more water until the water level reached the position at the top of the bore where the piston would be at TDC (Top Dead Centre). This photo is from the bottom of the bore looking down into the combustion chamber full of water. I had put in just over 180cc's. I double checked the measurement by carefully pouring the water out, back into the measuring cylinder. Just under 182cc's. 180cc's would do for the compression ratio calculation. The compression ratio calculation is: CR = (Swept volume [Vsv] + Combustion chamber volume [Vc]) divided by Vc Vc = 180cc Vd = 499cc Therefore the compression ratio is approximately 3.77: 1 I spent last night and this morning on the computer looking through nearly 1500 pages in a piston catalogue trying to find a piston that maybe suitable, with modifications, at 84.25mm diameter. Below is a photo of the worst piston from the engine. You can see the crack at the bottom of the piston skirt. What's the hole on the right - piston worm?!? It's another crack which is difficult to see in this photo. Possibly somebody has drilled the end of the crack to stop the crack spreading? After my search in the piston catalogue I found that there were a few pistons that maybe worth investigating further. One was BMW 3-series piston. I know my daughter has a large stock of new pistons for old BMW's (www.jaymic.com) and I gave her the part number and she came up with a box of 4-off new pistons at 84.25mm. I now need to do some more measuring on the barrel and the pistons to see if I can use two of these pistons in the engine. It will need some scheming!
  11. Hi Chad, sounds like it may have broken an axle. That happened to my 38 LZ. about 4 years back. Jack the left wheel up, give it a shake, see if it wobbles and falls off. Can be due to worn axle tapper, due to loose nut and or worn bearing housing sleeve. The sleeve has a grease nipple and should be regularly greased. The sleeve can be replaced. Check the under side of sleeve for wear. Similarities? The 36,37 LZ. . rear end is similar to Ford I believe but from 38 the housings where heavier and the gear wheel / pinion was Hypoid. The axles are the same as Ford as much as I can tell. Roy
  12. San Francisco was my favorite city on the west coast for years, during a visit last year, I can confirm it’s a messy trash heap and a public sewer. Don’t bother...........wait till it cleans up. Even the moon bats are getting tired of it. Nothing like seeing thousands of homeless shooting up in public. Is a very sad situation for the City bu the Bay.
  13. Well, you can't drive to Alcatraz... You don't need (or want) a car in San Francisco. See the sights (watch out for the piles on the sidewalk) and pick up your car on the way out of town.
  14. So mine is an R180. Actually your fenders and cab would be the same, the hood and grill are different. I don't need the hood and grill though. I'll call later today.
  15. Certainly looks like it to me and could be early as 1939. Good call.
  16. #CarShow Steinfeld Steinfeld - Germany May 19, 2019 Photos by Martin Vähning http://capripowermeetingpics.weebly.com/steinfeld-classic-steinfeld-19-mei-19.html
  17. Beautiful work, well done! did you also make your own dissy body?
  18. Well, I for one will miss your regular posts and excellent photos of the work, when you go back to working on the house. I too, pack up working in the garage or shed when I become tired. The only problem is that as I get older it's earlier and earlier in the day that I have to pack up!
  19. Land in sfo drive to san. I looking for great place to see and stay.. or eat.. What is on the list is : Alcatraz Island Hurst castle 1954 kaiser darrin sold in 1955. coronado island fly home.. It is nuts some hotel are already sold out.. a year out..
  20. My first date was in my mother’s 1967 Camaro RS Convt. I now own it and drive it often on AACA tours.
  21. Transmission shifter bump for the floor?
  22. GregLaR

    tee for sale

    panrat, I need this car like I need an 11th toe, but it would sure be fun over here in Palm Springs!
  23. Someone not wanting to do a full resto could do like Bryan mentioned earlier. Drop in a nailhead, ST400, open drive line and rear from a donor; drop in a couple of big full sized bucket seats and a vintage air unit, weld in sme floor pans, and have a fun way to tool around on a weekend. Or, do Rte. 66 in 39 style with a fairly modern drive train.
  24. Agreed, this is a great looking car at a fair price. Several years ago, after a lengthy search through all of Van Kaufman & Art Fitzpatrick's works for General Motors, I finally settled on this '61 Bonneville to grace the wall of my mid-century themed office.
  25. Welcome, I'm guessing the first thing you'd like to know is what the Fisher Body Tag says. 11C - The car was built in the 3rd week of November 1964 65-49447 - 1965 Buick Riviera 2 dr spt. cpe. TR-613 -Fawn cloth and vinyl seats VV - Shell Beige paint E - Tinted windows X - Power windows T - Power seat 2K - Air Conditioning Those are the options that were installed at the Fisher Body plant before the body was shipped to final assembly where it was married to the chassis, the power train was installed, and the front clip and other options were added. Scroll down the Buick forums and you'll find that we Riviera owners have a forum of our very own. Here's where you can get down to the nitty gritty with questions about your car. We also have a club. Started in 1984. A bi-monthly magazine loaded with all sorts of info and cars. Plus a huge classfied section for complete cars and parts. We also hold an annual event; each year in a different arra of the lower 48. There's a link to the ROA website in my signature block. Check it out. Best two restoration tools you can have are a shop manual for your year, and membership in the club. We're a very friendly group; everyone is on a first name basis. When you introduce yourself let us know your name and where you live. Once again, welcome. Ed
  26. Everything past the end of the spring. So the whole rear axle, wheels, brakes, the front control arms, brakes, wheels. Racecars take it to the extreme... inboard brakes, magnesium wheels. The lighter the unsprung weight, the more responsive the suspension is. That, and full articulation. I've always disagreed with manufacturer's desire for suspension that binds to increase the spring rate. When I rebuilt my ponycar's front suspension, I went to full bearings instead of bushings. It allowed full articulation of the control arms, and made for a much smoother, responsive ride. Noisy as all hell though.
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