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  2. Well you sold my Auburn. I'll give you a good deal. I'll swap you for this Auburn.
  3. Looks like it needs chrome work to some of it as well. Pilot rays are oxidized and worn, Lock rings are rusty as well. Gauge cluster and bezels all oxidized. It would be a fun one to get and tinker with while I drive. Maybe only worth 50G? Nothing mechanically looks fresh. Hopefully they do a bit of a write up. No info yet. Does it even run? When was it last actually driven? Thanks for posting the link.
  4. Very difficult to chrome plastic & costly also
  5. 8E45E

    Cunningham

    A touring, and a commercial chassis ambulance:
  6. It helps if you can enjoy the "hunt". The harder parts are to find, the more of a feeling of accomplishment when you find them. In the case of something like a Maxwell I would try to chase down and get to know as many early Maxwell owners as you can.
  7. I wonder what a realistic number is on this car is. Looking close at the pictures, much of the white paint is failing badly, mainly on the body. I can't tell about the fenders. Doesn't look like it was driven much by the condition of the inside of the fenders. I didn't see much in the way of stone chips. I would expect to see more chips and wear. That can be good or bad. I would assume it should get a new set of tires as well. Not crazy about the white paint but since it needs to be redone, that would allow one to paint it their choice but a paint job on this has got to be a minimum of 10 grand for a strip and respray with the owner doing alot of the work. Seeing the one at Auburn in more attractive colors with better paint went for 80g? is this a 60G car or a 70 G car? Interior looks like incorrect material to me. Is it Leather or Vinyl? I don't think it should have a metallic Sheen to it. Maybe it was restored in the 60's? Bidding says it's only open for 1 minute on one day. I'm guessing that's a glitch. I'm getting ready to sell my Cord and this might just work out depending on the final number. Any experts out there want to give me an education on this one?
  8. Small update... I've been practicing welding again. It has been quite some time since I last did any and I thought I'd get some practice in. Got off to a rough start as both regulators wouldn't hold pressure so I had to drive across a few towns (3 hours round trip) to get them rebuilt. There is a fantastic company, Regulator and Torch Exchange, that will rebuild your regulators while you wait. Really great guys. I went ahead and changed hoses, got new goggles, etc, etc. I'm more comfortable with the setup now and the practice has gone well. The owner suggested changing the spring in the oxygen regulator to allow finer control over lower pressures and I think that's helped a lot. I need to get some thinner (1/16") rod in as well as I'm struggling to keep the filler rod molten with the lower heat level needed to keep from blowing a hole in the sheet metal (20ga). Looks like it will be mid next week before that comes in so I'll have to find other things to do.
  9. The firestones fit inside the Franklin factory accessor Lyon covers fine. And while it's a snug fit, the covers and wheels fit down into the wells. The problem is finding a set of those covers. Paul
  10. Yes but I have had one, time for something different. My wife should be happy I only change up my cars every so often, not my women.
  11. There's this up at the front, says GM4 513794, and there's also A18 1 in front of the thermostat. Rear has nothing Can just about make out the A8UH there in the block stamping. Phil
  12. Not so autonut, I to have been restoring a 1936 Dodge sedan and have had 3 cars to build one. I have helped many folks with parts and info over the past several years and meant no insult to you. When ever someone puts out a request for '36 Dodge info or parts, or any year or make, it draws the interest of several members so any post or inquiry is really directed to all viewers of this forum. It's just frustrating when one spends time doing research, looking up part numbers, making copies or digging for parts to help and one doesn't get any response afterwards. i was really just commenting to Pete whom I know personally and have followed his progress.
  13. Special Model 41. Fewer vents and the fender reaches almost to the door. Large series cars are easy to spot because there are about six inches of flat metal between the fender curve and the front door.
  14. Yes, since my post I've found that finding parts is a big negative for these cars. This particular version of the Flaminia - the notchback coupe - is (apparently) considered the least attractive of the Flaminias of this era, and I still think it looks fantastic. A PininFarina design, so there you go. One just like it sold for $32,000 on Bring a Trailer in August, so I may have been right about it being a good deal. The two seater is even cooler, though.
  15. I cleared all my cookies on my iphone, When I tried to sign in my account was locked after 3 tries. I reset my password and had no trouble on my computer but when I tried to sign in on my iphone it would not accept the same password I had used on my computer and locked me out again. What gives
  16. I cleared all my cookies on my iphone, When I tried to sign in my account was locked after 3 tries. I reset my password and had no trouble on my computer but when I tried to sign in on my iphone it would not accept the same password I had used on my computer and locked me out again. What gives
  17. Arrived safely in Cincinnati without incident. I'm thrilled with how effortless this car is. Just about 250 miles, averaging about 13 MPG--I can't complain about that. It was such an easy drive that I almost forgot I was driving an old car. The nice cool weather makes it easy and even a brief traffic jam didn't stress the car--it stayed at 160 the whole way. The Rotella held 40-50 PSI at 60 MPH and about 15 PSI at hot idle, which is slightly better than the synthetic, but I didn't feel much difference otherwise. It might be quieter when it's cold, though, so that's good. We'll be touring tomorrow and if the parking lot here at the hotel is any indication, we seem to have the oldest car. We'll see...
  18. Well, the ride control and two speed rear end selectors on the dash say 1932 but it could be an 'updated' 1931. Couldn't read the engine number or see if it had the Startix to confirm year. Still looks pretty nice although that engine's appearance really isn't in keeping with the rest of the car. Hmmm.
  19. Howard Dennis is a wealth of information. He is seeking parts as well so I thought he wouldn't have many available I should think. I never thought to go the Chrysler route! Thanks!
  20. Many cars have driveshaft with constant velocity u-joints. They help eliminate vibration and a lower floor. Contrary to what many believe the CV joint can be separated and serviced like any other spicer style U-joint.
  21. With no codes, that is secondary ignition: ICM, coils, plug wires, plugs. ps you mentioned gapping at .060. That should only be done with a Delco ignition. Magnavox should be gapped at .045.
  22. Matt, what a great car! A member of our local BCA chapter regularly took his restored 1941 Limited on regional CCCA CARavans. Three comments: 1) I was under the impression that Buick straight eights had a characteristic drone or moan at highway speeds. My 1949 Super finally achieved it when I installed the correct long muffler. 2) Did you consider using a pastry bag for the corn head grease? 3) The oil bath air cleaners are great! The only drawback is if your car backfires through the carburetor. It is like blowing through a straw into a milkshake; the oil blurps out through the air cleaner at the bottom and sprays the engine compartment. Short of owning a Limited like yours, I enjoy driving my 1939 Roadmaster whenever I can. It is well appointed and cruises effortlessly at 60 mph. What a fun "near luxury" car to drive, and it fits in my in-tandem garage! Bob
  23. Welcome to the forum, lots of help available here. If you have half as much fun with your Pontiac as I have had with mine you will have a great time.
  24. Welcome! You can get wiring harnesses from Rhode Island Wire or YNZ. http://www.riwire.com/ https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/ Fuel pump repair kits are available from Then n Now, and I think they also have a rebuilding service. http://www.then-now-auto.com EDIT: I see a source for a fuel pump has already popped up while I was typing this!
  25. Love it! But will be a fortune to resto.
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